The Resurection of 'The Beast' (1 Viewer)

[Southeast Overland]

Thanks for volunteering Marshall to drop in my "new-to-me" 2F! You sure are swell!!!

Since I'm going to be switching over a bunch of parts I'm going to have a good many parts for sale...time for a sale thread.

The donor 2F will need some cleaning - see pic. Note: the hand does not come with the deal.

Steve your gonna want to take the bits of your motor (manifolds, alt, ) and put them on the new motor.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Thanks to some help from VTCruiser I was able to pull my 2F, tranny and t-case yesterday afternoon. I've got three weeks before I pick up my donor 2F so that should give me enough time to disassemble what I removed yesterday and clean the engine bay. I'm also working on figuring out my rear body mounts. On a suggestion from Trollhole I thought about welding in a 2x3x1/8 inch piece of tube but it looks like it would be a pain to cut out the old sill where it sits near the frame. I'm going to hopefully get that figured out today.

 

[OregonCruzer]

2F comes out today. I'm picking up a donor 2F in a couple of weeks. That should give me time to clean up my engine bay, rebuild my e-brake, replace my speedo housing and get a few other little things prepped to drop in the new 2F. I will have to desmog the new 2F - anyone have any good links to desmog 'how-to's?'

I think Guppy has a good write up, but it's been a while since I've done mine...

 

[Southeast Overland]

I got a couple of hours in this weekend but wasn't able to take any pics as I left my camera at work. Here is a quick summary of what I've done over the past couple of days. Some might be repetitive from earlier posts...

1 - pulled 2f, tranny and tcase
2- pushed Pig back into garage - the neighbors don't complain but I want to make sure and keep them at least semi-happy
3 - separated t-case and tranny from bellhousing
4 - installed Mudrak speedo housing - I thought my original speedo housing was leaking but it was not
5 - put new pads and springs in my e-brake. I was having a helluva time adjusting my e-brake - ends up one of the springs had popped off somehow but I still installed new springs - had 'em so why not?
6 - Cut out rear portion of rear sill. Coated inside with POR. I am going to pick up a 6 foot portion of 2x2x1/8 tube and weld into place then weld two pieces of 3/16 plate for body mounts off of the 2x2 with a couple of supports. This should be much better than what I had before (read: 'nothing').
7 - changed oil in 8274 - resealed gear compartment - ready to remount when Piggie is ready

The gasket between my head and exhaust had slipped at one point - I don't know if this could have caused any sort of problem - will grad a pic tonight.

I did rip the fool out of the boot on my clutch fork (?) removing my tranny and tcase from the bell housing. Can these be bought as OEM or is anything else available?

Also need to remove my bellhousing to replace my rear main. To get the bell housing off do I have to remove the plate below the clutch and then remove the clutch? That will be fun...

I'll get some pics tonight to post.

 

[Trollhole]

I did rip the fool out of the boot on my clutch fork (?) removing my tranny and tcase from the bell housing. Can these be bought as OEM or is anything else available?

Also need to remove my bellhousing to replace my rear main. To get the bell housing off do I have to remove the plate below the clutch and then remove the clutch? That will be fun...

I'll get some pics tonight to post.

Boot is available. Call Rick. Must take clutch cover off. Then unbolt clutch pressure plate then flywheel. Not that hard. Take the spark plugs out of the engine. Will make turning the engine around easier.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Thanks Marshall - I'll order the boot. I did a good job tearing it up.

I'll try to get the bell housing off tonight so I can go ahead and replace my rear main while I have some time.

Hope to degrease my engine bay this week sometime. That will mean the Piggie will get pushed back out into the driveway - the new neighbors will LOVE me!

 

[Trollhole]

Thanks Marshall - I'll order the boot. I did a good job tearing it up.

I'll try to get the bell housing off tonight so I can go ahead and replace my rear main while I have some time.

Hope to degrease my engine bay this week sometime. That will mean the Piggie will get pushed back out into the driveway - the new neighbors will LOVE me!

Don't replace the rear main until the crank has been fixed.

 

[Southeast Overland]

10-4

Don't replace the rear main until the crank has been fixed.

 

[Southeast Overland]

Here are a couple of pics for ya...

Pic 1) Rear portion of rear sill cut out and inside POR'd - now I just need to weld in some 2x2x1/8 - weld some plate to that for body mounts and close in rear corners.

Pic 2) 2F pulled and sitting on the garage floor. I made some U shaped supports for the front of the oil pan and the bell housing so all the weight wouldn't be on the oil pan and it would be a wee bit more sturdier. I also pulled some parts off the 2F to prep them for the donor.

Pic 3) Tranny and T-case - nuttin special here

 

[Southeast Overland]

Mo pics!

Pic 4) Engine bay with 2F out - I'm going to push the Piggie back out into the driveway and clean her up before the donor goes in.

Pic 5) Factory skidplate I picked up from ULC - was pretty rusty so I flap disc'd the bad rust off and will POR soon.

 

[yooper]

engine bay looks pretty good.

You can never sell this truck after doing this much work...

 

[Southeast Overland]

engine bay looks pretty good.

You can never sell this truck after doing this much work...

I know I can't sell it but I came really close a few weeks ago when I was throwing my hissy fit.

I'm going to have to get the exhaust rerouted past the skid plate - in its current configuration it will not clear.

 

[Southeast Overland]

I think I found the play in my steering. The steering linkage (intermediate shaft?) that goes into my toy truck power steering box has some decent play in it. Does anyone know if you can adjust this play out or are the bearings shot and need replacement? I'll try to tear into it this weekend...

 

[LC_Hamma]

Now that you have the tranny/ tcase out you gonna go for a lower geared tranny which'll be MUCH more trail friendly than stock? I have a crank from a 2F if yours is shot, BTW. Still have the rear portion of the roof I cut off mine if you need that too. Lookin real clean dude

 

[Southeast Overland]

Now that you have the tranny/ tcase out you gonna go for a lower geared tranny which'll be MUCH more trail friendly than stock? I have a crank from a 2F if yours is shot, BTW. Still have the rear portion of the roof I cut off mine if you need that too. Lookin real clean dude

Thanks! I've been meaning to get back with you about the roof. My plans were to be installing it now but the engine problems have set me back. I'm planning on being in ATL in about a month hopefully to see k9crazy and could go ahead and pick up the roof then to get it out of your way.

My 2F crank is shot and will have to be machined where the pulley mates if it is to be used again. I've heard mixed stories on just dropping in another 2F and running it. What do you think? I'm not going for a full lower end rebuild but don't mind a bit of work if that saves me from pulling another motor if I don't have to.

What is involved with a changing out the gearing in my tranny??? I'll do some searching and see what I can find...

Thanks again.

 

[LC_Hamma]

Thanks! I've been meaning to get back with you about the roof. My plans were to be installing it now but the engine problems have set me back. I'm planning on being in ATL in about a month hopefully to see k9crazy and could go ahead and pick up the roof then to get it out of your way.

My 2F crank is shot and will have to be machined where the pulley mates if it is to be used again. I've heard mixed stories on just dropping in another 2F and running it. What do you think? I'm not going for a full lower end rebuild but don't mind a bit of work if that saves me from pulling another motor if I don't have to.

What is involved with a changing out the gearing in my tranny??? I'll do some searching and see what I can find...

Thanks again.

I'm not tring to shy you away from doin an all Toyota build, but lower tranny gearing is a MUST & no LC tranny is gonna do that, not even an H41 I have a new SM420 plate adaptor just sittin on the shelf w/ your name on it. I got the crank off Ebay fresh from a machine shop - customer never picked it up is waht the dude said I'd have it magnafluxed to be sure of no stress cracks. I can send you some pics & you can read up on tranny conversions in the meantime ;p

 

[Southeast Overland]

Did a little reading and a SM420 sounds nice but that might have to be put off until a little bit later in the year - maybe next winter. I want to be able to drive my Piggie on a few trail rides this summer and with work being as busy as it is I would if she didn't get used until next year.

A fellow cruiser head has a 40 w/ a SM420 in it and I told him he was cheating on a recent run - that tranny made it waaaay too easy!

 

[Southeast Overland]

About an hour in last night between walking the dogs and supper. I finished prepping the factory skid for some POR15 and did some more fab on the rear body mounts...not much progress but I'm still working...

 

[Southeast Overland]

I only got about an hour in last evening but I was able to make some progress - and take some pics.

The play in my front steering is coming from two main places - what Haynes calls my 'Intermediate Shaft.' (See pic 1 and 2.) Most of the play is at the joint near the fire wall with less play but still some at the second joint from the fire wall. Will new bearings fix this? I'm going to try and find bearings online (for a part #) or a rebuild kit.

There was also some play at both ends of my OME steering dampner. What is up with tightening the ends on these things? The driver's end was LOOOOOSE. A couple turns of a nut tightened things up a bit but then the nut just spun without getting any tighter. Is this supposed to happen? Now when I tried to tighten the passenger's end (see Pic 3) the nut and the underside of the pivot point both spun without anything getting any tigher...what's the deal?

More to come...

 

[Southeast Overland]

I also welded up some plate steel with some reinforcements that I will attach to a 6 foot long piece of 2x2x1/8 inch tube for the rear sill and rear body mounts. (See Pic 4.) This isn't anything fancy but I think it will be good enough and much better than what was there before. My plan is to pick up the 2x2 on the way home from work today and get everything welded into place tonight. The is going out partying with friends and should be gone until at least midnight which will give me a good 5 hours to work!