The Resurection of 'The Beast' (13 Viewers)

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There are sound and thermal insulation coatings on the market. This company is just one of them: http://www.secondskinaudio.com/ Pretty sure the coatings are all waterproof.

They have sound insulation coatings that go on the inside, and thermal reflective coatings that would go on your firewall in then engine bay or on the bottom of the tranny hump.

There are other companies out there.

Dynamat and it's ilk are laid down with adhesive. It would be VERY easy for water to get under there, stay there, and cause mischief. For a trail rig that you want to hose out, I think I would go with a coating or have something "portable" that I could remove from the floor for cleaning. Put some kind of insulation between the floor and the factory rubber mat. On the firewall inside the truck I think Dynamat or something similar is a great idea - there is a LOT of noise coming through there in your truck...
 
Didn't get too much done last evening. I spent about two hours cleaning up some wiring running the length of the Piggie. I'm hoping to take a couple of days off this week and that could give me a lotta time on the Pig. I PROMISE pics will be posted tonight!
 
OK - so I'm late on the pics again but atleast here they are now. Trollhole helped me adjust my drums yesterday and welded on a shock mount on my front axle that I broke off some time back. Even though I was feeling under the weather he still worked hard on my rig while I worked on keeping breakfast down.

Here are a few pics of the interior that I've finished for the time being. All rusted metal on floors have been cut out and new metal welded in with two coats of POR15 brushed ontop. I still have to figure out what type of sound deadening material I want to use. I'll probably end up going with one of the Second Skin products that you can brush on. For the time being with Pig funds running low I'm going to throw in some paddling and carpet.

Pic 1) IPOR bucket seats and Tuffy console mounted ontop of IPOR bracket - went in very easily. Bracket was already tapped for seats. I did break one bolt which I had to drill out and replace but fortunately I didn't muck up the tapped threads too bad. Bracket is currently only welded to the floor but I will add a few grade 8 bolts for good measure before I hit the trail.
Pic 2) View of rear of vehicle. I will reinstall the factory rear bench. The padding and springs are in decent enough shape to reuse but I don't know if I'll get the bench reupholstered or if I'll just get some sort of cover. Anyone know of a decent and not too expensive slip cover?
Pic 3) View from rear. The factory 3 point seatbelts will be replaced with four point belts when I install a roll cage.
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One more pic.

Pic 4) Pic of rear IPOR bumper. The PPO bent this bumper somehow pulling out a Jeep. Trollhole and I tried several different methods to straighten this out somewhat. We made some progress with a combination of bolts, an impact hammer, a big chain, a bottle jack, a floor jack and a hi-lift jack but were not able to totally straighten the bumper. I need to remove the bumper to perform some bodywork so then I might try a combination of a really BFH and a torch. I'll probably have to end up taking the bumper to a frame shop to have them straighten it. I have to get the bumper straight before I fab up some quarter panel protection utilizing 2x2 steel. I'm worried now that it won't be strong enough.
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My back feels better just looking at those seats. :D

I won't know this truck when you're done.

TJK
 
Todd - the seats are very comfy. Lance sells some nice gear.

Here is a little mid-day update. I'm in the process of doing a little repair on a set of fenders I traded a friend for.

Pic 1) Driver's lower fender. This is the only rot on the fender. This is what I started with - you can see a few lines I etched out to cut.
Pic 2) Fender w/ rust cut out. I ended up trimming the bottom a little higher to fit ontop of my IPOR sliders. Its is a PAIN to fit body panels so they look any near decent.
Pic 3) Small patch cut to weld into place.

I hope to get the inner fender POR'd, weld in the patch, paint the fender and install it by the end of the day. I know its a tall order and its crazy hot right now but we will see... :cheers:
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It seems that the more bondo I grind off the lower fenders the more work I create for myself. I think I'm just going to make the lowers "good enough for now" b/c I'll be stripping them off hopefully soon for the tubes.
 
Well I can always float you another coat on the bottom.

Nah - I'm not worried about it. The uppers look good and that's really all I need. If you remember the small spot on the driver's lower that needed welded on the front I dealt with it by just cutting the front lip off. When I stuff a wheel it grabs that lip anyways so I chopped it off and perfecto! I didn't get to weld the bottoms up today but hopefully I'll do that tomorrow, hopefully paint the driver's fender and install. I have it pretty well fitted so it should bolt right on.

And here is a pic of the driver's inner fender POR'd.
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a little fender work this morning while the wife was running her weekly half marathon...

Pic 1) fender patch installed
Pic 2) fender patch installed zoomed in

I could put a VERY thin coat of filler down but I'm not worrying about it since this is a trail Piggie
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primed fender, will have to light sand before paint. worked on rear fender, ground off a ton of bondo, used new body hammer set which works well. started working on rear wheelwell, started cutting out some metal. mental note - don't repeat dumb mistake - it hurts when you grab hot metal. due to dumb mistake i am down to one hand for the rest of the day and piggie work is currently halted... :eek:
 

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