City Racer Headlights
Finally pulled the trigger on their headlights. I was driving down some two lane backroads at night and any oncoming car washed my headlights out, forcing me to drive blind until they passed. This is what you'll get in the package.
Pretty simple and straightforward. Two really nice headlights and a set of adapters that will allow these to plug directly into a stock fj60 harness.
Glamour shot of afterwards but I wanted to highlight the screws that need to be removed for this job. The upper right screw sits on the core support beneath the hood. You don't need to remove the turn signal lens screws because it attaches to the headlight housing.
Once you remove the cover you'll have to remove the plug that powers your turn signal and you'll be greeted by your headlight sitting in its bucket. Our headlights are held in by a ring that's
supposed to slide once the screws circled in red are loosened. If your is like mine that will not be the case and you'll have to remove that retaining ring along with it's screws.
The two screws circled in yellow are your headlight adjustment screws. These do not need to fiddled with if your stock headlight alignment is good to go. The left screw will move the headlight left and right (duh) and the top one moves the beam up and down. I messed with mine and thankfully there was a color difference in the screws that allowed me to tighten them back to factory settings without having to align them myself.
The green circle shows a spring that needs to remain attached to the headlight bucket. Not a huge pain to get back into place with a flathead if it comes out.
I didn't highlight them, but a sharp eye will notice three rectangular notches along the rim of the headlight bucket. These serve as alignment aids when you install new headlights and thankfully these City Racer lights do. The back of the light will have standoffs that will sit in these notches. Another easy tell is that each lens says DOT SAE and that needs to be on top.
To install your new headlight, plug in the adapter harness into the body harness and then the headlight itself. Then reverse the removal steps listed above. To save you some time and frustration, the retaining ring can only go on one way due to the spacing of the screws circled in red. If you have to force it, it's probably wrong.
Searching for grounds is fun with how small the grounding wire ring terminal is. I used the forward mounting bolt for the washer fluid bottle on the driver side fender and you can see it snaking behind the plastic here. I had to pull some plastic out of the way to make it work here and I'll probably move it in the future. The short wiring harness is a little too tight for my liking here and it's dangling aimlessly below my intake.
For the passenger side I used this small bolt near the radiator. I had to remove my battery and battery tray to get to it but there are very few options that'll work on this side. I'll have to double check what this bolt holds and I'll make an edit when I find it. It's wise to function check these to make sure the grounds are good before everything is buttoned back up. They're leaps and bounds better than my stock headlights and they bring a more modern look the the front end. Light brightness is great but the throw seems to be lacking. My 3rd gen tacoma had diode dynamics LED headlights and I could see much further into the distance than these.
The lower power draw of these headlights will prevent the high beam indicator from illuminating in your dashboard when you turn them on. This is supposedly fixed by swapping out that indicator bulb with an LED as well. I'll find out when I complete my fj62 dash upgrade.