Got any videos of this beast running and driving?
Builds The Journey Begins... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter doug720
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- Thread starter
- #122
Good idea... Never did any vids of the install or driving. Will make one this week.
Thanks
Doug
Thanks
Doug
Great swap!
I had to chuckle a little because running these diesel 3.9s does opened up all new driveability on the road for the FJ60 but it doesn't take very long to get addicted to that torque and want a little more. It starts with a little more fuel, some timing, and then moves to better turbos, larger exhaust, etc. Quickly we think of our power as normal and we'd like more when it's already much better than before. But then it's so easy to get more that its a "why not" kind of thing. I don't think I'll ever tire of hearing the turbo spool up. Glad it's turning out positive.
I had to chuckle a little because running these diesel 3.9s does opened up all new driveability on the road for the FJ60 but it doesn't take very long to get addicted to that torque and want a little more. It starts with a little more fuel, some timing, and then moves to better turbos, larger exhaust, etc. Quickly we think of our power as normal and we'd like more when it's already much better than before. But then it's so easy to get more that its a "why not" kind of thing. I don't think I'll ever tire of hearing the turbo spool up. Glad it's turning out positive.
- Thread starter
- #124
Joshua,
Here is slave mount bracket pictures.
Doug
Here is slave mount bracket pictures.
Doug
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
thank you for the pic, my slave adapter is a little different but gives me more options to think about.
Doug720- been a while since i checked on your build; the result is beautiful. looks factory.
your notes from your August road trip talked about turbo lag. Are you running the stock Turbo. A similar build... which, you probably read... but it's sorta hidden in another post... the owner swapped turbos and was wildly impressed.
His turbo info is:
T3 built by blaastperformance.com.
(I think about $400).
t3 t50 turbo
turbine .48a/r, 68 trim.
compressor .42 a/r, 42.5/60.1 50 trim
the post is here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/128585-isuzu-4bd1t-swap-41.html#post3816889
i'm probably posting a link you already know about but without rereading your whole thread, it's hard to know.
great job again!
your notes from your August road trip talked about turbo lag. Are you running the stock Turbo. A similar build... which, you probably read... but it's sorta hidden in another post... the owner swapped turbos and was wildly impressed.
His turbo info is:
T3 built by blaastperformance.com.
(I think about $400).
t3 t50 turbo
turbine .48a/r, 68 trim.
compressor .42 a/r, 42.5/60.1 50 trim
the post is here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/128585-isuzu-4bd1t-swap-41.html#post3816889
i'm probably posting a link you already know about but without rereading your whole thread, it's hard to know.
great job again!
Doug,
Hi, I was wondering if you could tell me how you wired up your alternator. I have the same year 60 and I'm about a week from tearing out my SBC to put my Isuzu in. I'm just sorting out the last few details like wiring and fabbing up my motor mounts. I have my diagram for the Isuzu alternator but I don't know which wires correspond on the FJ60 alternator and I was hoping you could tell me how you did it.
Thanks,
Don
Hi, I was wondering if you could tell me how you wired up your alternator. I have the same year 60 and I'm about a week from tearing out my SBC to put my Isuzu in. I'm just sorting out the last few details like wiring and fabbing up my motor mounts. I have my diagram for the Isuzu alternator but I don't know which wires correspond on the FJ60 alternator and I was hoping you could tell me how you did it.
Thanks,
Don
- Thread starter
- #128
Don,
For the Alt wiring, I just connected the the Isuzu output wires from the plug to the battery and extended the wire to the old Toyota alt wire and charge light. Everything works great and was quite easy.
I'm running two battery's, as the Isuzu likes juice to crank it over, also the glow plugs on cold mornings.
For my glow plugs, I used a manual system with a push button wired through a starter relay. Works great.
You should also wire a relay into the starter circuit from the key switch. I learned this from FLCruiser, who has done this swap also. He had to change out his Toyota key switch after he burned it out. It turns out that the Isuzu starter takes more juice to operate than the stock 2F starter.
Also, keep or buy 2F water and oil pressure sending units. The Isuzu units don't work well. Water calibration is off, and the Isuzu oil sender is for a light (at least on mine) not a gauge.
I'm very happy with this engine, and think you will be too.
I'm happy to answer any questions that come up, just post lots of pictures.
Doug
For the Alt wiring, I just connected the the Isuzu output wires from the plug to the battery and extended the wire to the old Toyota alt wire and charge light. Everything works great and was quite easy.
I'm running two battery's, as the Isuzu likes juice to crank it over, also the glow plugs on cold mornings.
For my glow plugs, I used a manual system with a push button wired through a starter relay. Works great.
You should also wire a relay into the starter circuit from the key switch. I learned this from FLCruiser, who has done this swap also. He had to change out his Toyota key switch after he burned it out. It turns out that the Isuzu starter takes more juice to operate than the stock 2F starter.
Also, keep or buy 2F water and oil pressure sending units. The Isuzu units don't work well. Water calibration is off, and the Isuzu oil sender is for a light (at least on mine) not a gauge.
I'm very happy with this engine, and think you will be too.
I'm happy to answer any questions that come up, just post lots of pictures.
Doug
Doug,
Thanks for the great info! It sounds pretty straight forward for the alt. wiring.
Thanks for the heads up on the starter relay. I will definitely wire it up that way.
Now that you have been driving it for a while, what kind of mileage have you been getting?
Thanks,
Don
Thanks for the great info! It sounds pretty straight forward for the alt. wiring.
Thanks for the heads up on the starter relay. I will definitely wire it up that way.
Now that you have been driving it for a while, what kind of mileage have you been getting?
Thanks,
Don
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- Thread starter
- #130
Don,
My mileage is in 18 - 20 MPG range. I don't drive my 60 all the time, but have put around 2100 miles on the swap with over half of it in the Sierra's above 7,500'. I'm sure the altitude and grades of those trips have not help my fuel economy...but sure helped my state of mind! LOL
I think the mileage will improve some once I take the time to fine tune the injection pump timing and the boost compensator. I think the valves could use an adjustment also. All these will help power and fuel economy.
Finished up my fuel filter/water seperator system recently. I used a Racor R230 unit which flows 30 gph with diesel. It works great, has a primer, clear bottom and a drain. Replacement filter units are $12.00 US.
I used aluminum angle bolted to the fire wall stiffener. Nice and solid with good access.
I also have 2 Racor 500 diesel fuel/water filters if someone wants them. I will let them go cheap. PM for price.
Doug Attached Images
My mileage is in 18 - 20 MPG range. I don't drive my 60 all the time, but have put around 2100 miles on the swap with over half of it in the Sierra's above 7,500'. I'm sure the altitude and grades of those trips have not help my fuel economy...but sure helped my state of mind! LOL
I think the mileage will improve some once I take the time to fine tune the injection pump timing and the boost compensator. I think the valves could use an adjustment also. All these will help power and fuel economy.
Finished up my fuel filter/water seperator system recently. I used a Racor R230 unit which flows 30 gph with diesel. It works great, has a primer, clear bottom and a drain. Replacement filter units are $12.00 US.
I used aluminum angle bolted to the fire wall stiffener. Nice and solid with good access.
I also have 2 Racor 500 diesel fuel/water filters if someone wants them. I will let them go cheap. PM for price.
Doug Attached Images
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Doug,
that sounds good! If I can get at least 20 mpg. with my 35's and H55 I will be way ahead of my worn out Chevy 350 and 11 mpg. I like your Racor 230 with the integral primer. I have a Wix filter/water separator but it has no way to prime it when you change the filter and I think the way you went is the way to go. I am pulling the 350 tomorrow and then it is no turning back.
I don't have a boost compensator on mine, only an altitude compensator, so hopefully I will have a little better mileage with my 35" tires. Only time will tell!
I am going to post a build thread when I get a little further along.
Thanks for all the help on this and for paving the way for the rest of us 60 series Isuzu converters.
Don
that sounds good! If I can get at least 20 mpg. with my 35's and H55 I will be way ahead of my worn out Chevy 350 and 11 mpg. I like your Racor 230 with the integral primer. I have a Wix filter/water separator but it has no way to prime it when you change the filter and I think the way you went is the way to go. I am pulling the 350 tomorrow and then it is no turning back.
I don't have a boost compensator on mine, only an altitude compensator, so hopefully I will have a little better mileage with my 35" tires. Only time will tell!
I am going to post a build thread when I get a little further along.
Thanks for all the help on this and for paving the way for the rest of us 60 series Isuzu converters.
Don
rideglobally
Nullacruiser
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wish i had seen this thread a week ago when i was exploring a switch. my 12ht is is a u haul outside i am getting ready to take it to a engine rebuilding shop. thanks much this is a great thread.
- Thread starter
- #133
Rideglobally.
I saw your in LA, I'm near LAX if you to meet sometime.
Doug
I saw your in LA, I'm near LAX if you to meet sometime.
Doug
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
How is your heater working? I noticed mine takes forever to heat up and seems to never be as warm as the gasser. Have not tried the heat on the hwy. The temp sensor seems to hardly even get hot enough to get past about an 1/8 way up the gauge
Is your heater a full-flow or a bypass type that gets shut off?
Isuzu's have a bypass hose from the thermostat to water pump that can be blocked if you're using a full flow heater.
Otherwise, replace your thermostat.
- Thread starter
- #136
My heater works great. Nice and warm and I think better than the 2F was. I connected the top engine water port just below the thermostat top housing to the 60's heater valve side port that points to the drivers (Left) side.
I am not using the rear heater at this time, and am considering just removing it. It does not get that cold here and I could use the space under the seat.
When I first did my swap, I tried the Isuzu water temp sender and my 60 gauge read about 1/8! I bought a new 2F water temp sending unit and installed it in the right (Passenger) side thermostat housing port. My temp runs about 1/2 on the 60 gauge.
Just remembered I forgot to send you the alternator wiring! Did you figure it out? Let me know if you need it.
Doug
I am not using the rear heater at this time, and am considering just removing it. It does not get that cold here and I could use the space under the seat.
When I first did my swap, I tried the Isuzu water temp sender and my 60 gauge read about 1/8! I bought a new 2F water temp sending unit and installed it in the right (Passenger) side thermostat housing port. My temp runs about 1/2 on the 60 gauge.
Just remembered I forgot to send you the alternator wiring! Did you figure it out? Let me know if you need it.
Doug
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dohcdelsol93
snoogans
I am using the 60 sensors and both heaters. Also a new 60 radiator. It's crazy cold her right now, has not been over 40 since I got the rig back on the road last sat. Most days have been barely above freezing and we have had snow on the ground since Monday. I don't know what type of flow the 60 radiator is.
I got the alt wiring worked out without frying anything.
Still have to work out some clutch adjustment issues. Because of the driver side drop of the 57 chevy bell housing and the huge isuzu starter I had to make a Z shaped bracket and turn the slave cyl around 180 degrees. I can get enough movement to fully engage the clutch but I dont have a full 1/8" clearance at the throw out bearing when resting. Even though there is no pressure a few pressure plate fingers rub the bearing and spins it. I am using a return assist spring. The clutch pivot ball has some visual wear on it. I am thinking a new one might give me better travel
I got the alt wiring worked out without frying anything.
Still have to work out some clutch adjustment issues. Because of the driver side drop of the 57 chevy bell housing and the huge isuzu starter I had to make a Z shaped bracket and turn the slave cyl around 180 degrees. I can get enough movement to fully engage the clutch but I dont have a full 1/8" clearance at the throw out bearing when resting. Even though there is no pressure a few pressure plate fingers rub the bearing and spins it. I am using a return assist spring. The clutch pivot ball has some visual wear on it. I am thinking a new one might give me better travel
- Thread starter
- #138
I used my 60 radiator also. It's working out well for cooling and I have good heater function too. My only radiator mod was moving the lower hose connection towards the center about 1.5" to clear my new radiator mount and make the hoses line up better. \
Does the engine thermostat work? Could it be stuck open and engine does not warm up? You said it's really cold outside. Just a thought.
Did you check my post a couple a days ago about the heater hose connections to the engine and 60? Maybe the flow is wrong? I also have read that many 60 rear heater cores become clogged with debris. Might be worth a check with a water hose to check flow of both heater cores.
Glad the alt wiring went well. It's pretty straight forward.
On the clutch, I can't help too much as mine is quite different. My clutch arm, slave and mount are all in the stock position on the right (passenger)side of the bell housing.
Was your exhaust pretty tight with the starter, slave and clutch arm all in the same area?
My suggestion, If it it's not leaking or getting hot, and you have good oil pressure, drive her a few hundred miles and see what happens. Fix a lot is small issues one time, instead of one at a time. Saves time and effort IMHO.
Congratulations on a great swap!
Doug
Does the engine thermostat work? Could it be stuck open and engine does not warm up? You said it's really cold outside. Just a thought.
Did you check my post a couple a days ago about the heater hose connections to the engine and 60? Maybe the flow is wrong? I also have read that many 60 rear heater cores become clogged with debris. Might be worth a check with a water hose to check flow of both heater cores.
Glad the alt wiring went well. It's pretty straight forward.
On the clutch, I can't help too much as mine is quite different. My clutch arm, slave and mount are all in the stock position on the right (passenger)side of the bell housing.
Was your exhaust pretty tight with the starter, slave and clutch arm all in the same area?
My suggestion, If it it's not leaking or getting hot, and you have good oil pressure, drive her a few hundred miles and see what happens. Fix a lot is small issues one time, instead of one at a time. Saves time and effort IMHO.
Congratulations on a great swap!
Doug
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Regarding throw out bearing play. I decided about 7 years ago that I wanted a self-adjusting clutch, the simple way was to throw away the return spring on the clutch slave cylinder. The downside is the throw out bearing is always in some contact with the clutch diaphragm.
7 years about 50,000km. No problems at all. I really like the self-adjusting clutch too. I used to have to adjust it every 6 months or so.
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
I have heard it was bad to let the tob ride the clutch even softly at all times, guess nice I get my new clutch fork spring clip and pivot ball will see how she adjusts out and stick with whatever I get. I know now I am missing part of my tob spring retainer clip.
