PM'd ya...
Builds The Journey Begins...
- Thread starter doug720
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- Thread starter
- #162
Just an quick update on the swap. I've driven around 5500 miles now, with a few 3-500 mile trips included. So far I'm as happy as can be with the swap!
I have had a couple of little issues, but nothing to stop me from driving her. The clutch rattle is still there, no better, no worse. Maybe someday I'll pull her apart and take a look...Someday.
I found my mystery oil leak also. The aluminum timing cover by the IP pump has a tiny crack at one of the bolt holes. It was leaking for the PO also, as that side of the engine had a oily mess on it. I thought it was the IP pump gasket which I changed. I used aircraft epoxy on it for now until I have time to weld or swap the cover out. My Isuzu dealer has a used cover for $50.00 delivered to my house! Not too bad. Other than the crack, no oil leaks.
Performance and mileage are good. I can go from Los Angeles up Interstate 5 to the central valley in 5th gear and 70 mph the whole way. We can also climb up Conway Summit on 395 - 8'200' at the top - with only a downshift to fourth near the top. We have been to over 11,000' and she just keeps on pull'n! No comparison on how the 2f was at elevation! We cruise at 70 mph real easy and can use the passing lanes real easy. It's no longer a road hazard on hills ands we caqn pass at will! Wow Shocking huh!
We have averaged right around 20.2 MPG for the 5500 miles I've driven her. These miles are city, highway, mountains, off road, loaded and empty, etc. Not to bad for a 60 with a roof rack. LOL. She never gets hot and turned out to be very quiet inside, about the same as the 2f when moving (never had to add sound deadener!). She sounds like a diesel outside, but no annoying in any way. Vibration is nothing, a little mirror shake at idle.
Here are a couple of pictures of how things look now. I have changed a couple of things and added a few;
1) Flex intake from canister air cleaner to engine - The original Hump hoses and hard pipe I used on the swap would/did not allow enough vibration isolation. I was worried it might damage the canister mounts.
2) Heat shield at brake booster - Not for heat but to make a support for the heater hoses and throttle cable. It also can't hurt the booster to shield it too. I kept the stock carb fan and used the thermo switch to blow air on the turbo area. Thought it could not hurt and I had the parts.
That's about it. This swap is winner in my opinion. It fairly easy - I did all by myself in my garage. Fairly inexpensive - About $3000.00 out of pocket for everything. Fairly quick - I did it in about 3 weeks of nights and weekends.
I have seen a few more more ToyUzu swaps recently on mud and hope to see some more.
If anyone has questions, let me know, Happy to help.
Doug
I have had a couple of little issues, but nothing to stop me from driving her. The clutch rattle is still there, no better, no worse. Maybe someday I'll pull her apart and take a look...Someday.
I found my mystery oil leak also. The aluminum timing cover by the IP pump has a tiny crack at one of the bolt holes. It was leaking for the PO also, as that side of the engine had a oily mess on it. I thought it was the IP pump gasket which I changed. I used aircraft epoxy on it for now until I have time to weld or swap the cover out. My Isuzu dealer has a used cover for $50.00 delivered to my house! Not too bad. Other than the crack, no oil leaks.
Performance and mileage are good. I can go from Los Angeles up Interstate 5 to the central valley in 5th gear and 70 mph the whole way. We can also climb up Conway Summit on 395 - 8'200' at the top - with only a downshift to fourth near the top. We have been to over 11,000' and she just keeps on pull'n! No comparison on how the 2f was at elevation! We cruise at 70 mph real easy and can use the passing lanes real easy. It's no longer a road hazard on hills ands we caqn pass at will! Wow Shocking huh!
We have averaged right around 20.2 MPG for the 5500 miles I've driven her. These miles are city, highway, mountains, off road, loaded and empty, etc. Not to bad for a 60 with a roof rack. LOL. She never gets hot and turned out to be very quiet inside, about the same as the 2f when moving (never had to add sound deadener!). She sounds like a diesel outside, but no annoying in any way. Vibration is nothing, a little mirror shake at idle.
Here are a couple of pictures of how things look now. I have changed a couple of things and added a few;
1) Flex intake from canister air cleaner to engine - The original Hump hoses and hard pipe I used on the swap would/did not allow enough vibration isolation. I was worried it might damage the canister mounts.
2) Heat shield at brake booster - Not for heat but to make a support for the heater hoses and throttle cable. It also can't hurt the booster to shield it too. I kept the stock carb fan and used the thermo switch to blow air on the turbo area. Thought it could not hurt and I had the parts.
That's about it. This swap is winner in my opinion. It fairly easy - I did all by myself in my garage. Fairly inexpensive - About $3000.00 out of pocket for everything. Fairly quick - I did it in about 3 weeks of nights and weekends.
I have seen a few more more ToyUzu swaps recently on mud and hope to see some more.
If anyone has questions, let me know, Happy to help.
Doug
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #163
Couple more pictures.
Doug,
Beautiful! Congratulations.... everything looks first-rate, you should be real proud
Beautiful! Congratulations.... everything looks first-rate, you should be real proud
Quick question: where did you get the engine? I had a heck of a time finding this engine or complete truck for a reasonable price.
Are you using the factory EDIC-type do-hickey to start/stop engine?
Are you using the factory EDIC-type do-hickey to start/stop engine?
- Thread starter
- #166
Gifu,
I found the engine (a 1/2 cut basically) here on mud. They are out there.
I wanted real basic and low tech, so I used a manual cable to stop the engine. To start, just give her a little glow plug (manual push button) and turn the key to start her just like stock
My thinking is;
"If you have clean fuel, air, oil and a rod's not sticking out the side... you can probably turn the engine over with the starter or even push it to get going".
The only electric's are the starter and the alternator, neither of which you need to run the engine.
Doug
Dang if it doesn't look OE in there. 
So tell us, can you go up grapevine hill, passin' cars like they're standin' still?
(not that I would suggest such a thing, any and all "high speed driving awards" you get are yours
)
So tell us, can you go up grapevine hill, passin' cars like they're standin' still?
(not that I would suggest such a thing, any and all "high speed driving awards" you get are yours
)
- Thread starter
- #168
Nex,
It's not passing cars like their standing still...But, it's dammmm nice to go with the flow of traffic and not to get passed going up a hill by loaded 18 wheelers, VW bugs, mopeds and bicycles!! LOL
Thanks for the complimeny.
Doug
It's not passing cars like their standing still...But, it's dammmm nice to go with the flow of traffic and not to get passed going up a hill by loaded 18 wheelers, VW bugs, mopeds and bicycles!! LOL
Thanks for the complimeny.
Doug
As always it looks great Doug. Thanks for the motivation. I am in the final fab stages! Just sorting out wires now!
Clint
Clint
- Thread starter
- #170
Sounds great, let me know if I can help. But one problem...Pictures! We need pictures!
Doug
I just gotta add, it's a fine looking truck and an amazing, factory-looking swap. Saw it for myself when Doug was at the Cherry Valley swap meet (selling his left-over 2F stuff).
Nice work!
Nice work!
- Thread starter
- #172
Clint here are the pictures.
Doug
Doug
Thanks for posting those up. I appreciate it.
Clint
Clint
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
i'm glad to see your still enjoying your swap.
These engines don't make the 60's into race cars but it nice to be able to do 70-75 up a hill without slowing down.
I'm seeing a consistant 22-24 mpg around town with a few hwy miles 55-60mph in the mix.
I can get onto the on ramps and merge without having to time it perfectly like i did with the old 2f.
These engines don't make the 60's into race cars but it nice to be able to do 70-75 up a hill without slowing down.
I'm seeing a consistant 22-24 mpg around town with a few hwy miles 55-60mph in the mix.
I can get onto the on ramps and merge without having to time it perfectly like i did with the old 2f.
polarweasel
Where's mah cruzah?
Don't want a race car! Want a stump puller!
I'm driving our stock 60 a fair bit lately, and old carbureted engines suck. Probably be a year or more before I can do this swap, though, and probably not into this 60. Looking for another one now!
Thanks for the inspiration and tons of great info, Doug and dohcdelsol!
dohcdelsol93
snoogans
after doing mine i wished i had gone with the 4l60 or 4l80
better overdrive than the H55 and tons cheaper than the nv4500 or h55.
You can set them up to shift manually or run a stand alone computer and set your own shift points.
and i can vouch...she'll pull stumps...or at least the old ugly holly bushes that were in my front yard!
better overdrive than the H55 and tons cheaper than the nv4500 or h55.
You can set them up to shift manually or run a stand alone computer and set your own shift points.
and i can vouch...she'll pull stumps...or at least the old ugly holly bushes that were in my front yard!
- Thread starter
- #177
Clint, you inspired me to fix my clutch rattle!
Well I decided to take a weekend and find the clutch rattle problem once and for ALL!
Last night I pulled the engine, for me it's easier to do this than the trans/transfer case route and I had it out in 3 hours. Plus it easy to check all the clutch components this way. I also wanted to do a couple of other things too.
I FOUND THE NOISE! Bad pilot bearing! I'm not sure if it happened putting in the engine or not, but the bearing is bad big time. Part of the race is backed out of the bushing. I can barely spin it and it feels like crap when it moves.
It looks weird, almost like it was made wrong. The bushing bore is not aligned with the bearing? Could be just what happens over time and use? Who knows. It was a brand new Advance Adapters Chevota bearing when I started.
At least I know what the problem is and it's a cheap fix, but a pain in the arse!. But I am making a few minor mods while I'm in there. Adding a block heater, fixing a minor oil leak, and spill timing the IP pump with easy access.
Doug
Well I decided to take a weekend and find the clutch rattle problem once and for ALL!
Last night I pulled the engine, for me it's easier to do this than the trans/transfer case route and I had it out in 3 hours. Plus it easy to check all the clutch components this way. I also wanted to do a couple of other things too.
I FOUND THE NOISE! Bad pilot bearing! I'm not sure if it happened putting in the engine or not, but the bearing is bad big time. Part of the race is backed out of the bushing. I can barely spin it and it feels like crap when it moves.
It looks weird, almost like it was made wrong. The bushing bore is not aligned with the bearing? Could be just what happens over time and use? Who knows. It was a brand new Advance Adapters Chevota bearing when I started.
At least I know what the problem is and it's a cheap fix, but a pain in the arse!. But I am making a few minor mods while I'm in there. Adding a block heater, fixing a minor oil leak, and spill timing the IP pump with easy access.
Doug
Do you have a local clutch shop?
If you do, you might have them check it out.
If you do, you might have them check it out.
Doug,
A friend gave me another 4BD2T. In a couple of months I might replace my 6.2 with it. Although it's too far in advance, I'm trying to sort out how everything will fit. This will be different from my first since the truck only has 3" of lift. and I want the A/C compressor on the drivers side instead of the pass side for easier inj pump service.
Since you have the same vehicle, same engine and same lift, maybe I could ask some questions?
Are your driveshaft lengths stock?
Is your A/C compressor closer to the frame or closer to the steering box?
Where does the widest part of the compressor come paralel too?
Know a good source for new Zexel A/C compressors?
Did you space your steering box off the frame any?
how thick is the NPR intercooler?
(I've got one, just can't find it
)
-----
Thanks for documenting your install. You have great solutions for fitment problems.
A friend gave me another 4BD2T. In a couple of months I might replace my 6.2 with it. Although it's too far in advance, I'm trying to sort out how everything will fit. This will be different from my first since the truck only has 3" of lift. and I want the A/C compressor on the drivers side instead of the pass side for easier inj pump service.
Since you have the same vehicle, same engine and same lift, maybe I could ask some questions?
Are your driveshaft lengths stock?
Is your A/C compressor closer to the frame or closer to the steering box?
Where does the widest part of the compressor come paralel too?
Know a good source for new Zexel A/C compressors?
Did you space your steering box off the frame any?
how thick is the NPR intercooler?
(I've got one, just can't find it
)-----
Thanks for documenting your install. You have great solutions for fitment problems.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #180
Doug,
A friend gave me another 4BD2T. In a couple of months I might replace my 6.2 with it. Although it's too far in advance, I'm trying to sort out how everything will fit. This will be different from my first since the truck only has 3" of lift. and I want the A/C compressor on the drivers side instead of the pass side for easier inj pump service.
Since you have the same vehicle, same engine and same lift, maybe I could ask some questions?
Are your driveshaft lengths stock? Yes, stock length. The trans/transfer were not moved from stock front to back, but I slotted the cross member a little to adjust side to side maybe 1/2" or so.
Is your A/C compressor closer to the frame or closer to the steering box? Steering box, the compressor center line is is between the the steering box and the top of the frame, a little more to the bottom of the steering box.
Where does the widest part of the compressor come paralel too? Pretty much right along the whole steering box
Know a good source for new Zexel A/C compressors? I bought a newer style unit at a bone yard from a gas NPR. I had to swap pulleys and modify the mount arms a little also. I also shaved the ears a little on the compressor next to steering bow just for some extra room if I really flexed her.
Did you space your steering box off the frame any? Yes, with a 1/2" steel plate.
how thick is the NPR intercooler? About 3"
(I've got one, just can't find it
-----I will take some more pictures to make it clearer if you want?
Thanks for documenting your install. You have great solutions for fitment problems.
No problem.
I just put my engine back in last weekend after pulling it to find my clutch rattle. Which turned out to be a bad pilot bearing??? A brand new bearing went bad...
I also welded the crack in my aluminum timing cover and cleaned up a few odds and ends to make everything nice and neat.
Thanks for the advice to check the injection pump pistons out, I found some crud in two of the housings and the engine runs like a champ.
Let me know it you need anything else.
Doug
