bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
I've just the manual that covers the engine rebuild stuff (chapter 6). I think the section I need is in chapter 3
Builds The Journey Begins... (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter doug720
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bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Here is what my setup looks like
Looking down on the steering box, the black line going into the port on the right is pressure line from motor side. The blue line on the left goes to a PS cooler in front of the radiator. On the reservoir the big line is return back to PS pump on motor and bright blue line is coming from the PS cooler. Does this look right?
Looking down on the steering box, the black line going into the port on the right is pressure line from motor side. The blue line on the left goes to a PS cooler in front of the radiator. On the reservoir the big line is return back to PS pump on motor and bright blue line is coming from the PS cooler. Does this look right?
- Thread starter
- #423
The connections to the PS gear box are the same as mine, as is the one to PS pump on the engine. I can see the ends of the reservoir, but not the other connections. But as I recall, the smaller line connects PS gear box to the reservoir, and the larger hose goes from the reservoir to supply the engine PS pump.
Let me know if you want me to check the manual for tests.
Let me know if you want me to check the manual for tests.
bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
Yes the large line on the reservoir goes back to the large hard line that comes up and over the timing cover. It goes back down to the PS pump on the bottom of the engine. That smaller line on the top port of the reservoir comes from the PS cooler which is hooked up to the return side of the gear box. Please take a look at the system check for me and see if there is any thing that I can do. Maybe it is not as easy as a more modern vehicle, it is hard to turn will driving slow speeds and off road.
- Thread starter
- #425
Will do.
Something is wrong, as mine turns my 33X10.50's pretty easily. It's been too long to compare to the 2f days, but it's close is power.
Something is wrong, as mine turns my 33X10.50's pretty easily. It's been too long to compare to the 2f days, but it's close is power.
- Thread starter
- #426
I was contacted about the alt/AC compressor bracket modification I made and decided to post a how I did it here for reference.
To do the mod, it requires the bracket to be fitted a bunch of times on a block with accessories to make sure it all clears.
I used my mill to do mine, but it's not a lot of material that gets removed. An angle grinder and 1/2" drill motor could do it fairly easy.
If you fit the bracket to the block, then the AC compressor and look at it, you will see where to make cuts, notches and drill new mounting holes. First, I milled the block contact points to move the whole bracket towards the block center line as much as possible. Then milled the upper point to allow it swing closer to block. Then drilled new mounting holes for the compressor bolts.The alternator did not have to move on my swap, I just needed a little more room near the steering box.
The A/C compressor I used is from a 2000 or so gas engine NPR. I modified the "C" brackets to move the compressor closer to the block. Both could be done with an angle grinder and drill.
I also used a 1/2" steel plate to space the steering box outward to gain a little more room.
One of these days, I'm going to finish my new engine and swap it in. When I do, I will use my existing modified bracket to make another modified bracket. I even have a spare bracket.
To do the mod, it requires the bracket to be fitted a bunch of times on a block with accessories to make sure it all clears.
I used my mill to do mine, but it's not a lot of material that gets removed. An angle grinder and 1/2" drill motor could do it fairly easy.
If you fit the bracket to the block, then the AC compressor and look at it, you will see where to make cuts, notches and drill new mounting holes. First, I milled the block contact points to move the whole bracket towards the block center line as much as possible. Then milled the upper point to allow it swing closer to block. Then drilled new mounting holes for the compressor bolts.The alternator did not have to move on my swap, I just needed a little more room near the steering box.
The A/C compressor I used is from a 2000 or so gas engine NPR. I modified the "C" brackets to move the compressor closer to the block. Both could be done with an angle grinder and drill.
I also used a 1/2" steel plate to space the steering box outward to gain a little more room.
One of these days, I'm going to finish my new engine and swap it in. When I do, I will use my existing modified bracket to make another modified bracket. I even have a spare bracket.
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- Thread starter
- #427
It appears there is interest in Isuzu powered swaps again, as I have had several people contact me with questions about mine.
Well, here is a quick update. I did my swap in 2010, have driven it over 60k miles, and still own it! It runs great and averages around 20 MPG. For repairs...nothing! Just regular maintenance - oil changes and the like. I trust this swap, take my family to fairly remote places in it, and would drive it across the US tomorrow! It's been a great swap.
I bought another Isuzu 4BD2engine a few years ago for $275. It was complete, had been rebuilt, but had blown up when it was driven with a stuck injector.
Since I bought my 4BD2 engine used (Here on Mud!), with unknown history, I thought building a new engine would be good plan. I sourced factory Isuzu pistons and liners, gaskets, a complete new loaded head, etc. Had the all the parts balanced, injectors rebuilt, etc. I have about $2000.00 in the rebuild including the second engine. But I was lucky and only paid $400.00 for the factory graded pistons, rings, pins and liners kit!
Funny thing is, my original engine, runs great, so the new engine and parts are sitting contently just waiting for me to dedicate some time to assembling the engine and swapping it....Still waiting for a good reason! I did install the new engines factory waste gate style turbo after rebuilding it. This improved performance over the originals engines Free Floater style turbo.
That's about it. Just a good swap with good performance that makes sense from a performance and budget stand point, with local parts availability.
No regrets!
Well, here is a quick update. I did my swap in 2010, have driven it over 60k miles, and still own it! It runs great and averages around 20 MPG. For repairs...nothing! Just regular maintenance - oil changes and the like. I trust this swap, take my family to fairly remote places in it, and would drive it across the US tomorrow! It's been a great swap.
I bought another Isuzu 4BD2engine a few years ago for $275. It was complete, had been rebuilt, but had blown up when it was driven with a stuck injector.
Since I bought my 4BD2 engine used (Here on Mud!), with unknown history, I thought building a new engine would be good plan. I sourced factory Isuzu pistons and liners, gaskets, a complete new loaded head, etc. Had the all the parts balanced, injectors rebuilt, etc. I have about $2000.00 in the rebuild including the second engine. But I was lucky and only paid $400.00 for the factory graded pistons, rings, pins and liners kit!
Funny thing is, my original engine, runs great, so the new engine and parts are sitting contently just waiting for me to dedicate some time to assembling the engine and swapping it....Still waiting for a good reason! I did install the new engines factory waste gate style turbo after rebuilding it. This improved performance over the originals engines Free Floater style turbo.
That's about it. Just a good swap with good performance that makes sense from a performance and budget stand point, with local parts availability.
No regrets!
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- Thread starter
- #428
It's been 12 years since I did my Isuzu 4BD2 engine swap, and thought it was time for an update.
First off, I still own it and drive it often. Power is good, mileage is 20.5 mpg for over 50k miles. No problems or weirdness, just regular maintenance. I bought this engine used on Mud, so to be safe, found a second 4BD2 to rebuild. I've had a fully machined and balanced spare motor ready to assembly for years, but this engine runs great...Someday I get around to it.
I would do this swap again without doubt, though it may be harder to find the adapters I've heard. Good power, good mpg's, easy install, inexpensive to buy engine and parts, and parts readily available.
I've had some serious heath issues and had to have chemo and a bone marrow transplant over the last 18 months, but I'm clear and feeling much better. This kept me away from Mud. But I'm back!
First off, I still own it and drive it often. Power is good, mileage is 20.5 mpg for over 50k miles. No problems or weirdness, just regular maintenance. I bought this engine used on Mud, so to be safe, found a second 4BD2 to rebuild. I've had a fully machined and balanced spare motor ready to assembly for years, but this engine runs great...Someday I get around to it.
I would do this swap again without doubt, though it may be harder to find the adapters I've heard. Good power, good mpg's, easy install, inexpensive to buy engine and parts, and parts readily available.
I've had some serious heath issues and had to have chemo and a bone marrow transplant over the last 18 months, but I'm clear and feeling much better. This kept me away from Mud. But I'm back!
Welcome back and glad you're feeling well.It's been 12 years since I did my Isuzu 4BD2 engine swap, and thought it was time for an update.
First off, I still own it and drive it often. Power is good, mileage is 20.5 mpg for over 50k miles. No problems or weirdness, just regular maintenance. I bought this engine used on Mud, so to be safe, found a second 4BD2 to rebuild. I've had a fully machined and balanced spare motor ready to assembly for years, but this engine runs great...Someday I get around to it.
I would do this swap again without doubt, though it may be harder to find the adapters I've heard. Good power, good mpg's, easy install, inexpensive to buy engine and parts, and parts readily available.
I've had some serious heath issues and had to have chemo and a bone marrow transplant over the last 18 months, but I'm clear and feeling much better. This kept me away from Mud. But I'm back!
View attachment 3069289View attachment 3069290View attachment 3069291
Welcome back, Doug. You were missed and glad you're mended and felling good.
Cheers
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #432
I have no issues with the H55. 33's and 3:70's in 5th makes 65-70 cruise easy. Yes first gear is short, but off road it's nice, and I take off in second often.
Not familiar with driving MV4500, so not much help. But, they are way cheaper to buy, though you need another adapter. On my swap, I already had the H55. Plus all my drive train is in the stock locations. Only engine, engine mounts and moving the stock 60 radiator are non-stock Toyota.
Not familiar with driving MV4500, so not much help. But, they are way cheaper to buy, though you need another adapter. On my swap, I already had the H55. Plus all my drive train is in the stock locations. Only engine, engine mounts and moving the stock 60 radiator are non-stock Toyota.
- Thread starter
- #433
Thanks guys, it's been a true battle. Looking forward to getting out more.
Dazed
Blue's Driver
Your build totally inspired mine. It was great meeting you all of those years back!
This is great to see! I dropped a 4BD2TC in to my fj60 last weekend, and while I haven't plumbed it all up yet, I am concerned about mounting angles. I have mine mated to an NV4500 with an NP241C transfer case and it is LONG. I have to have about an 8 degree back tilt to make it fit without lowering the engine so much it would run in to the front axle.
- Thread starter
- #436
I had questions about engine angle also. After much discussion on Mud and 4BTswaps, it was deemed accepatable to have 5-8 degrees of angle. It was pointed out the engine oil and coolant systems are pressurized, so no issues with 5-8 degrees.
On my swap, I kept the drive train in stock positions, and based my engine angle on keeping the driveshaft angles very close to stock to eliminate vibration. It worked. I ended up with roughly 5 degree engine angle.
These engines are tall, so watch hood clearance.
Take a look at the first few pages of my build thread for this engine angle and clearance discussions.
Do you have a build thread?
On my swap, I kept the drive train in stock positions, and based my engine angle on keeping the driveshaft angles very close to stock to eliminate vibration. It worked. I ended up with roughly 5 degree engine angle.
These engines are tall, so watch hood clearance.
Take a look at the first few pages of my build thread for this engine angle and clearance discussions.
Do you have a build thread?
I don’t yet, I should probably start one.
How did you get the fan to align with the radiator with that much lean back? Did you lean the radiator back too? I’m sure I’ll have many questions along the way.
Also, how did you get the tach to work? I’ve heard that the IP has a tach signal but unsure if it’s compatible with the factory tach.
- Thread starter
- #438
5 degrees is not really a problem with the radiator and shroud. So not to repeat many posts, I would encourage you to read my build from the beginning. It covers engine angle, radiator, power steering, AC, intercooler, oil filter relocation, tach, and much more. There are a lot of pictures and good Mud member input and discussion too.
On mine, I left the drive train in stock locations, including transmission and driveshafts, used stock Toyota radiator and shroud with modified lower mounts. I used the complete Isuzu engine and accessories. No weird parts, so its either 60 or 4BD2 parts needed.
On mine, I left the drive train in stock locations, including transmission and driveshafts, used stock Toyota radiator and shroud with modified lower mounts. I used the complete Isuzu engine and accessories. No weird parts, so its either 60 or 4BD2 parts needed.
I’m also excited to be rereading this. I have 2 Isuzu 4bd2t that I’ve had for years. They need rebuilt. I’ve been wanting to put into my ‘72 sprung over pig. I originally was thinking about the automatic like longbow did but now thinking the NV4500
