Builds The Journey Begins... (1 Viewer)

[doug720]

Thanks for the compliments. I'm hoping to wrap up most of the loose ends today and go for a drive.

As to mounting and positioning the engine. I think you could go 3" forward and clear the oil pan no problem. The 3" would also help the filter / drive shaft clearance. Right now the oil filter is directly above the yokes.

I did modify the trans cross member with new holes over about 1.25" to pass side at the beginning. But changed back to about 1/2" to passenger side. With the rear over to pass side it made the AC too close to the frame.

I think your plan sounds good. I will do some looking and measurements today with 3" in mind and see what it would do.

Doug

 

[doug720]

A few more pics.

 

[doug720]

Finished up all the wiring and most of the misc including getting a lot of the AC work done. I had to relocate the receiver to in front of the radiator wall. It worked out well I used one of the stock hoses to connect the condenser to the the receiver.

I had a couple of issues with the senders. The wire for the oil pressure had a broken wire, and now the water is not working. Took it out and it was separated and no good. Need to order both Monday.

Everything else is working how it should...So far! This engine idles so smoooth! It's very quiet, with just enough of the diesel knock to remind you she is.

I am going for a nice test drive Monday afternoon. If all is good, the AC shop Tuesday.


Doug

 

[doug720]

Today's Pictures:

In the first picture you can see the new receiver location and the hose that used to run from the receiver to the firewall connection.

I am using the Thermal switch that controls the 2F carb fan to cool the turbo. I made a bracket and mounted it to the exhaust manifold. Thought it could not hurt with heat soak, even after you idle down for a while.

The big red wire above the alt is the glow plug supply. I had the the #6 so I used for the relay power and the run the glow plugs.

Doug

 

[doug720]

The First Drive!

WOW!

I was very happy with the first real test drive today. The power is outstanding. It pulls with um...Authority! Especially compared with the 2F. The torque is impressive at low speed. It will be hard to stall it first gear.

Once moving around town it was fun and very drive-able. I am going to drive it on the freeway tomorrow to see how it works there.

This afternoon I'm going to finish glow plug relay and the new sending units.

Getting oh so close to being finished.

Doug

 

[Stone]

Excellent job!

 

[dohcdelsol93]

definately let us know how you wire up the glow plugs. I'm wanting to do an old school push button style. since i have no donor vehicle i have no access to factory relays/what not. I do however have plenty of access to solenids, push button switches (for starters) and fuses.

 

[Stone]

I used a Cole Hersee constant duty HD solenoid for my glow screen. You'll need something that's up to the job of letting huge current through.

 

[polarweasel]

Woo hoo for the first drive! Way to go, Doug!

 

[dohcdelsol93]

are the glow plugs on the isuzu really that high amp? I thought i read they were about 10 amps.

In the pics of the isuzu rovers the wires going to them were really small gauge, as in about the size of speaker wire small

 

[crushers]

you need an 80 amp breaker, i know the wire looks small.
think about it for a second, each glow uses how many amps? so that is X4 when cold, it goes down as the plug warms up.
i looked into this back when i did the HZJ40 build... but i lost where i stuck the info.

this being said, on my own trucks i just run a heavy gauge wire from the battery to the push button starter switch and back to the glow rail. done. no issues. BUT, to play it safe use a breaker in line to make sure you don't fry something.

side note, i took one plug and stuck it in the vise. i glowed it using 12V direct feed till it glowed red and timed the event. this gave me a safe glowing period as a guide for when i want to glow the unit.
red hot was 12 secs.
some are drasticly less, some are a bit more, depending on the amp draw.

it isn't rocket science but common sense might be good.

 

[doug720]

Very nice job, You should be proud!
Great solutions on the A/C/alt brackets.

Is the transmission mount unmodified? Engine appears to be sitting about the same center line as the 2F.

Would diff clearance be a problem if your engine was 3" forward?

Reason I'm asking is is I've got another 60 with the same lift as yours but driveshafts lengthened/shortened 3" and another 4BD2 sitting on the garage floor.
Wheels in my mind are turning.

I slotted the the trans mount a little to let it pivot towards the pass side a little. The crankshaft center line of the 4BD2 is about 1.75" more to pass side than the 2F was.

As to moving the 4BD2 3" further forward, if you have enough lift it would probably work. On mine it would not work, too low.. If you go back to page 3 of the posts there is a picture with a tape measure sticking up between the oil pan and diff. 3" forward and they would contact on mine. Don't you have a spring over? Or was that the 4BD1?

Long test drive this afternoon!!!!! Will post results. Then off to the AC shop in the morning.

Doug

 

[doug720]

The Big Drive!

Just came back from the first big drive. Did over 50 miles of freeway and surface streets and she's still running! No big issues at all...but a few small ones.

First the driving experience, Still its WOW! She really is different than than the 2f in so many ways. Completely different power band and shift points. When the turbo comes on, she just keeps pulling. Its weird to have power to pass and accelerate on the freeway, LOL!

With 3:70 gears and the H55 first gear is pretty short. It does not take much throttle to get underway, then it's time to shift. It seems best to drive the torque. Quick shifts in the low gears, then 3 is good for a wide range of speeds around town.

Until the turbo spools up, she's a little gutless. Like being lazy and leaving it 3rd gear after a slow turn up the freeway on ramp. A shift to 2nd, the turbo spools up and off we go. Literally! I have not had time to connect the tach or the turbo boost and pyro or gauges yet. So I driving a little blind, except I know my freeway speed rpm's. I've been driving by feel, and it's FUN!

She is not a silky smooth like the 2F. Let me restate that, she is smooth but a little rougher around the edges. More power and torque does that. It is not any louder than than 2F 90% of the time. At idle she may be just a touch louder, but when driving around town or the freeway the same or less. This engine is very quiet, and see no reason to make any sound proofing changes. Again, it's no louder than the 2F most of the time!

Vibration is minimal. Tiny bit of mirror movement at idle, and the center rear view flutters a little around 70 mph. That's it!

No drive line vibration issues, steers good, drives about the same as before. Brakes seem a little more powerful, I think due to the vac pump on the alt pulling more vacuum.

No smoke at all! Nothing on start-up or driving.

But all is not perfect in Toyuzu land. A few minor issues to deal with.

There is a little flat spot a low throttle/boost. Might be just how it is as the turbo kicks in. Just feels a little funny. I'm thinking maybe the the turbo boost compensator diaphragm is leaking? Ideas?

The belts are squealing when the turbo licks in. Their new, and probably just need adjusting.

I might need to see if there is any adjustment on the temp gauge in the dash. I wired the the 60 gauge to the Isuzu sender and the temp did not go over 1/4 at any time. But when the 2F was in, it only went a little higher. Maybe this normal?

The biggest issue is I have a rattle in the trans/bell housing area at idle with the clutch out and in neutral. Sounds like the clutch disc is loose. Engaging the trow out bearing does not eliminate the rattle, but push the pedal down does?Goes away when you push in the clutch pedal.

I need to adjust the clutch pedal free play a little, also the throw arm maybe a little loose. It did not make the sound before the long drive. Any ideas???? Everything is new, but it kind of sounds like a pilot bearing! It's new, and I hope not!!!!!!!!

I'll check it out tomorrow

Taking the rest of tonight of and having a cold Newcastle.

Doug

 

[Dougal]

Cool.

She is not a silky smooth like the 2F. Let me restate that, she is smooth but a little rougher around the edges.

These don't purr, they growl.

There is a little flat spot a low throttle/boost. Might be just how it is as the turbo kicks in. Just feels a little funny. I'm thinking maybe the the turbo boost compensator diaphragm is leaking? Ideas?

Take the line off to the boost compensator and blow down it. If it leaks then the diaphragm needs replaced. If it doesn't leak then you can still play with the adjustment to get that fine line between smoke and fast spoolup.
The boost compensator on mine has about a 3psi range, I have mine set so about 4psi it starts moving and that works well for me.

 

[crushers]

i would say drive it to for a few hundred miles and make sure no leaks etc THEN worry about the little things..

 

[FL cruiser]

I might need to see if there is any adjustment on the temp gauge in the dash. I wired the the 60 gauge to the Isuzu sender and the temp did not go over 1/4 at any time. But when the 2F was in, it only went a little higher. Maybe this normal?

I never tried the Isuzu sender.
I used the 2F sender and installed it by the thermostat housing. With the Isuzu engine the gauge stays around 3/4 of the way up on the gauge.

When it's in neutral and clutch is disengaged, does the rattle seem consistant with engine RPM if you rev it up?

Does it rattle less when the engine is accelerating and decelerating?

 

[doug720]

I never tried the Isuzu sender.
I used the 2F sender and installed it by the thermostat housing. With the Isuzu engine the gauge stays around 3/4 of the way up on the gauge.

I don't have the 2F senders and I thought the Isuzu was BSPT threads? I almost ordered new 2F senders, but instead ordered new Isuzu senders! Damm!

When it's in neutral and clutch is disengaged, does the rattle seem consistent with engine RPM if you rev it up?

Not sure on engine speed, except it sounded like the rattle was consistent with the idle rpm. I was listening to the sound at idle last night. I can't check it now as it is at the AC shop. Will check it out this afternoon.

Does it rattle less when the engine is accelerating and decelerating?

I did not hear it when moving. Only noticed when idling at stop light. Everything works how it should, ie, shifts fine, clutch feels good, pedal engages at the proper distance. I do need to adjust the play a little at the pedal and throw arm.

Making me think pilot bearing is loose. But it was tight in the flywheel and fit the transmission shaft nice and tight. All the flywheel and adapter are torqued with a little loc'tite for good measure. New clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out and pilot bearing and new flywheel. It did not make this sound with the 2F, so I don't think it's transmission related.
Idea's???

Thanks,

Doug

 

[FL cruiser]

Sounds like you installed an NV4500. It's normal for them rattle and make noise at idle. Haven't yet heard of an H55 being noisy.

Maybe you could take a stethoscope or put a long screwdriver with your ear on one end and other against the transmission to see if the noise is coming from inside.

IF and only IF it's the transmission, here's a long shot theory.
I kinda hate to post it because the fact you didn't have any noise at first and it later appeared makes it an even longer shot theory. But I'll post anyway.

I was trying to come up with answers why the teeth on the input gear came off inside my H55.

There are more torsional vibrations from these long stroke 4 cylinder diesel engines than others. I know there's probably a better way to explain, or a better explanation, but here's the way someone explained it to me that knows more than I do.

Even though the engine is rotating, there's mini starts and stops in the revolutions. A diesel has more severe starts and stops because of the compression. The 4 cyl's diesels starts/stops are more violent because they are spaced further apart and add the diesels long stroke and added compression. Maybe there is added transmission noise from the backlash between the gear teeth in the transmission slapping back and forth because of the torsional vibration. At idle with no load on the gears, the transmission counter shaft is just along for the ride as it's being spun by the input gear.

I do hear a very slight added transmission noise on mine after the diesel install, but I have to be under the vehicle to hear it.
Yours is pretty much the same setup as mine, and wouldn't think it should have the rattle.

 

[doug720]

Update:

Sorted a few issues and some not so much.

On the rattle front, I found the the transfercase was touching and vibrating on a mount for the center aux fuel tank. Adjusted a little
and it seems better.

Got my new sending units in tonight. Water works perfect, but oil reads quite high at idle. Have to check this out. Maybe the LC sender is the way to go?

My air condition trip was a bust. The Isuzu uses a Zexel compressor with an unusual fitting on the back and no body in socal had one!!!

Have to wait until after I come back from vacation to complete the AC.

Drove her some today, and I'm still impressed with the power. Still a little slow to spool up the turbo off the line, but I may have the boost hose ran to the wrong compensator. Manual says one thing, but the truck was plumbed different when I bought it. I have posted this on 4BD swaps hoping for clarification.

But very happy and working well overall.


Doug

 

[crushers]

please explain... my understanding is the boost hose activates the dump not encourages early boost... that is mechanical by the design of the turbo.

Update:

Sorted a few issues and some not so much.
Still a little slow to spool up the turbo off the line, but I may have the boost hose ran to the wrong compensator.
Doug