Builds The Journey Begins... (6 Viewers)

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please explain... my understanding is the boost hose activates the dump not encourages early boost... that is mechanical by the design of the turbo.

These engines have a mechanical boost compensator on the back of the injector pump, it's a juggling act to find the right setting for fast spoolup and no smoke.
The first thing to check is that it's actually working properly. If it has issues then it takes a long time and more rpm to build boost along with a big reduction in overall power.
 
Update:

I am begining to think the sound I'm hearing is the trans imput shaft just free spinning in neutral. When in gear and moving there is no sound. The rattle is RPM related, it changes with RPM changes. It seems to be reduced as the RPM's rise. I think the diesel has just a little vibration at idle. It does seem to be louder after the trans warms up. Cold you don't hardly hear it. Will have to keep an eye (ear!) on it.

Have not had time to check to boost compensator yet. Running short of time as I leave on vacation Sunday and have other things to get ready. Working gets in the way of important things like engine swaps and fun!

Drove it to work today, it's fun to have power! Passing cars in a 60 on the freeway...Strange!


Doug
 
Update:

I am begining to think the sound I'm hearing is the trans imput shaft just free spinning in neutral. When in gear and moving there is no sound. The rattle is RPM related, it changes with RPM changes. It seems to be reduced as the RPM's rise. I think the diesel has just a little vibration at idle. It does seem to be louder after the trans warms up. Cold you don't hardly hear it. Will have to keep an eye (ear!) on it.

Have not had time to check to boost compensator yet. Running short of time as I leave on vacation Sunday and have other things to get ready. Working gets in the way of important things like engine swaps and fun!

Drove it to work today, it's fun to have power! Passing cars in a 60 on the freeway...Strange!


Doug

I have had the same rattle, but on my Isuzu gearbox.
I replaced the factory input shaft seal with a conventional dual lip-seal, that's when the noise started.
I replaced the seal with a factory part (which has about 3 times the rubber in it, it's an extremely substantial oil seal) and the noise stopped.
In this case Isuzu had used a very heavy seal to damp out the vibration and noise you get at idle form the spinning input shaft. I don't know if toyota use the same trick or not.
 
Update:

I am begining to think the sound I'm hearing is the trans imput shaft just free spinning in neutral. When in gear and moving there is no sound. The rattle is RPM related, it changes with RPM changes. It seems to be reduced as the RPM's rise. I think the diesel has just a little vibration at idle. It does seem to be louder after the trans warms up. Cold you don't hardly hear it. Will have to keep an eye (ear!) on it.

My R150f has a VERY similar sounding rattle. Here's a test: put the T-case in neutral. Then try putting the transmission in gear and see if the rattle goes away. It's hard to tell if the noise goes away or not when you're driving, but that's an easy way to see if it's just an input shaft issue...

I notice mine most at drive throughs. It goes away the instant I either put the clutch in or put it in gear, any gear. I figure that engaging a gear must either change the harmonics of the transmission, or I have a badly failed input shaft bearing (and would have had it badly failing for the past 80,000 miles).

Dan
 
I did the transfer case in neutral test this afternoon, and yes its sound is still there, but not as loud. Not sure what to do, it's not getting louder, so I'm drive it some more and see what happens.

I had been putting off adding (to limit the travel) to my bump stops, and I waited too long. Hit a dip today and the front lower u-joint hit the oil filter! Just kissed it, but dented the bottom a little. No oil leak, LUCKY!

I now made spacers to lower the front bump stop rubbers. There is no doubt you need more than 3" of lift to clear the 4BD2 short oil filter! No way with the long filter!!!!!

I have a boost compensator I'm dealing with now and hopefully have it worked out Saturday.

Doug
 
I hope you get your rattle fixed, Doug. When I idled the 4BD2 in my YJ, I did not notice any strange noises like you described. Granted my Jeep isn't in drivable condition right now, but I did let it idle on several occasions and everything sounded normal. I have an SM465 transmission with a hydraulic throwout bearing, but everything else is standard-fare small block Chevy parts -- the clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing, seals, etc. I don't know how the SM465 compares to your transmission, but it's just some food for thought. The SM465 was used in a lot of heavy-duty applications and might be more resilient towards vibration.

Congratulations on your progress so far. Looks great!
 
Thanks for the info, I also idled mine and did not notice the sound until the trans warms up after a drive. Cold thick 90 wt. oil = No sound, but warm thin 90 wt = sound?!

I just going to drive it for a while and see what happens.

I did redo the boost compensator "T" to eliminate the "venturi" effect that was sending vacuum to the boost compensator instead of pressure. I brazed in a new 90 degree fitting with the open end facing the air stream. It should work now.

I am leaving on vacation very early Sunday to the Sierra's with my 60 in tow. Trial by fire is how it will be. I went over the whole cruiser today, checking bolts, hoses and a hundred little things, no real issues. Brought a few more tools and items than normal, and will staying away from anything too tuff or too far away. But she seems to be working well, so off we go.

Fishing, exploring and fun for 2 weeks, my just reward for 4 weeks of every spare minute doing my swap.

Where we go is way off the net, so I will post updates when I get back.


Doug
 
Diesel

Hello Doug:

I have a 65 FJ-45 and would love to run a diesel in it. I too live in California (Venice) and I am hesitant due to the smog laws. Do you have any insight into this??


Great Work!!

Thanks
Mike
 
My '88 Isuzu Trooper diesel conversion has the same rattle at idle that you (and some others) describe. I've spoken with an Isuzu guru on the subject and he is also of the opinion that the diesel power pulses cause the unloaded transmission to rattle a bit at idle, in neutral with the clutch engaged. All seems quiet going down the road, and it's been a little over 5,000 miles without any problems.

This pertains to the Isuzu 4JB1-TC 4-cylinder diesel with matching Isuzu 5-speed MUA gearbox.
 
I'm back...

Well the good news first, A DIESEL IS FRKN OUTSTANDING!!!!!

We could go up grades at over 9-10,000 feet and not be a road hazard. Cruising up 395 at 70 with only a downshift to 4th to go up Conway Summit was a joy to be seen and felt.

No serious issues with the swap or the engine. She does get a little cranky and smokey at 8,000' and upper 30 degree range to start. But nothing a little longer on the glow plug button didn't take care of for the most part.

The trans rattle did not get any worse or better, so I don't know if it's anything. Shifts and drives fine?

I had more black smoke than I wanted anytime over 7,000 feet (our whole trip!). I tried adjusting the boost compensator, and it helped and hurt. It ran better, but smoked more. I found my last minute boost port tube with a 90 degree bend mod did not work! I'm still not getting any pressure at the hose. I think I need a bigger tube, which I will try soon.

She also had a few rough running/vibrations a certain rpm's, even a little/minor surging it felt at the times. But cleared up with more/higher rpm's. I don't know my rpm's as I don't have a tach yet. I think this is all realted to the boost compensator issue.

In a related finding/condition, boost is slow to build, but oh does it build! But coming out of a slow, steep, uphill sharp curve, it was real slow to build boost. Severe turbo lag and black smoke. I think this related to no boost pressure reaching the the boost compensator because of the fitting size or location. Even though the fitting is almost the same distance from the intake manifold.

I also may have the IP out of adjustment a little and will check that and the injectors just to make sure. Remember, I had to remove the IP to change the oil cooler cover before I installed the engine.

I also think this boost issue contributed to my relatively low fuel economy. I filled both tanks, 41-42 gallons total, and went about 500 miles and had about 1/2 of the stock tank left. I only filled the the stock tank all the way as the Bridgeport diesel station was having pump problems. So I will fill her up this week and get an accurate mileage check. No matter what, WAY BETTER THAN THE GASSER AT 7-10,000 FEET FOR TEN DAYS!

Since I tow our 60 behind our motorhome, I have not driven her again at lower altitudes. But she did fire right up with no smoke and with minimum glow plugs dwell time at sea level (home).

I played with the boost pressure adjustment quite a bit and made some difference. I did not play or check the altitude compensator, as I only wanted to deal with one issue at a time.

I'm going to have to relocate the oil filter. There is no clearance with only a 3" lift! Even with only 1" of travel to the bump stop, I still manage to have the front u-joint dent the oil filter! Not Good!

This was minimum 4 wheeling and being extra careful. Mainly dirt roads and 2 tracks in the forrest. I carried an extra oil filter and 3 gallons of oil just in case and watched the oil pressure very carefully.

I think what Dougal has done with plates on his 4BD engine is making sense to me know. I spent some time looking at the oil systems external parts(with a nice adult beverage in hand and in the Sierra's!) and think I can do this fairly easily with some custom aluminum plates, SS hose and good fittings.

I think I can mount the stock filter head away from the engine and plate the it's engine side, plate and drill the block plate. Install fittings and connect with hoses. On the upper stock steel fitting and line cut the steel pipe and braze fittings and connect with SS hose and fittings and we should be ready to go with a new remote mount.

This brings up another issue - Oil pressure and water temp sending units. The new Isuzu senders I bought do not work right with the Toyota gauges. I need to install toyota senders to fix this.

Overall no major problems. Never got hot. Did not burn oil, but a small oil leak leak near the IP/power steering pump. A tiny one, maybe a few teaspoon fulls. Not enough to want to get in the dirt and crawl underneath!

In fact the only issue I fixed on the trip was a bad relay for the glow plugs. Good'ol NAPA in Brideport! But, as I mentioned earlier, I played the boost quite a few times. Oh, I forgot, Had to take a hammer and a nail and vent my gas...FUEL cap, as I forgot to prior to the trip.

I would recommend this swap to anyone considering a diesel 60. It was not that hard, the engines are good, plentiful, and easy to get parts for. They have way more power than the 2F, and I bet even more with a little adjustment and fiddling. This is not even going the route of increasing the fuel or boost, just good stock tuning should result in even more power and better fuel mileage in the very near future.

We had a great trip and she performed very well for the very limited testing time I had before the trip. I really just got most of the big little things finished up the day before we left. I drove her for the first time the weekend prior and had put about 200 miles on thew swap before our vacation. As I said before, "Trial By Fire"!

Fishing was great, weather was great, scenery was...outstanding. late summer/early fall is beautiful. Family and I had a great time.

But a little bad news, my wife found out she is getting laid off in 60 days the day we got home. Really bad news, as she makes a decent wage and had the benefits for us. I guess a sign of the times, but she had a lot of time in and my work (construction) sucks right now and probably will for the next few years! Sorry for the bummer update end.

Chins are up, we are looking ahead, and our good old 60 works pretty damm good!

Hell Ya!

Doug
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Nice work,congrats doug,a few small bugs and she'll be fine.
 
Update:

I finished relocating my oil filter by making a remote mount for the stock filter head. This had to be done as the front drive shaft would make contact with the oil filter even with the suspension bump stops lowered to 1". Without moving the oil filter, I don't see a solution with only a 3" lift on a 60. I think you would need at least a 5" plus lift for the filter to clear the driveshaft! The 4BD1 double filter arrangement may clear, but I have never seen one in person. Moving the filter like I did is not that difficult and cost around $230.00 in parts and materials. I did my own machining and labor.

The oil filter was moved to the passenger side upper firewall and works well there. I made a spacer block out of 1 1/2" thick piece of billet aluminum to allow the oil filter head supply and return lines to come out the bottom. I also made a 3/4" aluminum plate to bolt to the side of the block. Both plates have milled and shaped oil passages to match the stock parts and mounting surfaces. I used AN fittings and SS braided oil lines. Number 12 for the main lines, 6 for the by pass, and 4 for the IP oil supply lines. The IP steel line adapter fitting was brazed on to the stock steel kine, as were the adapter to the big steel line going to the oil filter head from the oil cooler and turbo.

I made an aluminum bracket for the firewall that mounts to the stiffener lip and hung the head there with a support that goes to the vertical section of the firewall...It is very strong with no movement.

I received the Dakota Digital tach converter yesterday so now I will have a tach very soon. After speaking to Tech staff at Dakota, it appears the stock Isuzu magnetic rev counter on the IP drive gear will work well for the signal and is in a good location and easy to work with. I also ordered a set set of stock Toyota sending units to make the temp and oil gauges read correctly.

Other than this I have been driving the Toyuzu and enjoying my new found power. It brings a smile to my face every time I push the skinny pedal! Power is great!

I am happy with the results and think this is a great swap.

Doug
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Looks good! I have a feeling I'll be doing a similar mod to the oil filter on my YJ. The 4BD2's filter is gargantuan compared to the 4BD1's twin filter arrangement.
 
As requested, here are a few of the mount and complete with filter installed.

The big hose is #12 and the top fitting is 120 degree's.

Doug
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I think this is what you want to see? Here are the block plate pictures and how I added the fitting to the IP pump oil line.

Doug
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I brazed the fitting to the steel oil line, same as the large oil pipe fittings that go to the stock oil filter mount and the one that exits out of the oil cooler/turbo return with the #12 SS hoses.

Doug
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