Builds The Journey Begins... (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

But another issue is the IDS aluminum ring. I had to notch mine for clearance with 3" lift, without the lift I think you would have a problem with the drive shaft.

Lowering the bump stops is an option, but I want to keep as much travel and articulation as possible. I may have to do this yet, but only lower them by the minimum amount.

Hang on a minute.
If you don't shift the bottomout bumpers then your lift hasn't given you any more clearance. It's just given you a higher ride height and more travel.
 
I should have been more clear on what I am planning. I want to test the clearance then adjust the stops as needed. There will likely be different travel limits from side to side. I'm not sure if this will be OK or a problem of different travel limits yet.

Doug
 
Different limits will be a problem for hard bottomout on the front end. I'm not sure how often you have that, but it's going to make the front pitch to one side if one contacts first.
 
thus far i've found the oil pan clearance is the easy part of the swap, the oil filters/ids/flywhel housing are another story.

lift with a 4bd1t= posible body lift only (will know in a few weeks)

4bd2= lift a must with that filter assy
 
thus far i've found the oil pan clearance is the easy part of the swap, the oil filters/ids/flywhel housing are another story.

lift with a 4bd1t= posible body lift only (will know in a few weeks)

4bd2= lift a must with that filter assy

You can simply plate off the filter mount and run hoses to remote mount them.
 
You can simply plate off the filter mount and run hoses to remote mount them.

i'm very interested in some remote mount oil filters as everytime you change your oil you get oil all over your drive shaft. Once my 2f is gone i'm looking forward to having NO oil on my drive shafts ever again.
 
i'm very interested in some remote mount oil filters as everytime you change your oil you get oil all over your drive shaft. Once my 2f is gone i'm looking forward to having NO oil on my drive shafts ever again.

This is how it's done in my rangerover, it has the same driveshaft clearance issues.
Unbolt the filter housing from the block, fit a plate over the block and the another plate the same over the back of the filter block.
Run two hoses from the block plate to the filter plate, run another hose from the back of the oil cooler (the line that comes down to the filters) to the top of the filter block.
That's it really. Three hoses and put the filters where-ever you like.

The factory landrover kit used a new filter mount which mounted the filter pointing up. But these are impossible to find.
 
Dougal,

Please post a picture of your filter plates. If I did a remote, I have no or minimum clearance issues.

Thanks

Doug
 
and let us know where to get said kit!

I have access to a local industural isuzu dealer but no marine dealers so i'm not sure if this is something i can get locally or not
 
Update:

Had a good evening yesterday and made good progress on my Toyuzu. If things go well tonight, I'm planning to fire her up Saturday morning!

I finished all the intake and boost plumbing, fuel lines are connected, both battery tray's are back in place too.

Routed, cut and connected the power steering hoses to the reservoir.

I have heater hoses and wiring to finish up prior to starting. Both are in first stages.

Heater hoses should be fairly easy, but I want to keep the rear heater so it gets a little more complicated.

For wiring, I'm planning on using the Isuzu senders with the Toyota gauges and wiring. At least try it and see what happens? I have to connect the pyro and boost gauges also. The alt and starter are looking to be fairly straight forward also.

If I can get her running early Sat, I'm off to the exhaust shop!

Wish me luck!

Sorry no pictures last night.

Doug
 
and let us know where to get said kit!

I have access to a local industural isuzu dealer but no marine dealers so i'm not sure if this is something i can get locally or not

I don't think you can get a kit. But they're reasonably easy to make for any decent workshop.
I'll see if I can find any photos.
 
I don't think you can get a kit. But they're reasonably easy to make for any decent workshop.
I'll see if I can find any photos.

the hoses/fittings i don't have an issue finding as we have several hose/hydro shops in the area.

the issue i have is finding an adapter for those odd sized oil filters, they are a bit larger than what you find on a SBC or import.
 
Quick Update:



She Runs!!!!!

Fired right up on just a few cranks. Idles nice and smooth and darn quiet even without an exhaust. Minimal vibration. Have not moved her yet, but it just feels good and powerful sitting in the seat...Ooh Ya!

Now getting ready to go to the exhaust shop. If I get out of the exhaust early enough, I may try to get the AC hoses made too.

I'll post some pictures later today.


Doug
 
Last edited:
if you are making an adapter anyway why not make one that fits the usual filters?

making adapters is way out of my league...i've got enough tools to run a small engine shot and to be dangerous under the hood of a vehicle but thats as far as i go.


I'm wanting to find an already pre manufactured remote fitting for the oil filters (mine is a dual set up so i need to) and 2 oil filter bases for the remote filters (i'll be using OEM filters to ensure proper flow)


and awsome doug!

It's amazing how quiet these engines are even with only a few inches of down pipe on them.

The only time i noticed the engine was a little "rough" was at idle it had a good amount of vibration, this could be due to being strapped to a pallet, i'm sure motor mounts make things run more smoothly.
 
making adapters is way out of my league...i've got enough tools to run a small engine shot and to be dangerous under the hood of a vehicle but thats as far as i go.

Can't you buy filter-heads in the size you want and just plumb them in remotely?
Honestly though, I'd stick to the type of filters Isuzu fitted. They picked the size and rating for quite good reasons which we probably don't understand.
 
Can't you buy filter-heads in the size you want and just plumb them in remotely?
Honestly though, I'd stick to the type of filters Isuzu fitted. They picked the size and rating for quite good reasons which we probably don't understand.

I'm hoping to be able to find filter heads and i agree on using OEM filters for proper flow/filtration.

I'm sure they have a higher flow/filtration rate than what your normal SBC uses
 
Update:

Not only does she run...She runs well! Went to the exhaust shop today, but only after a little drama. First I had a oil leak from a missing bolt on the bottom of the injection pump . I missed it putting the IP back in. Second was the power steering. I had the lines crossed which does work well. Oh well, both were easy fixes.

The exhaust is on and is very quiet. The engine is very smooth with minimal vibration. I used the tow bar to get to the exhaust shop and had to tow it back too. But when I got home we went for a short drive. It runs well, pulls good. but i had another small issue as I had the altitude port on the IP blocked with a cap. This makes it run funny! It's now connected to the old distributor vent from the gas motor which draws filtered air from inside the cabin.

Finished the heater hoses today and catch tank. Worked on the wiring and am about 80% finished. Should be done tomorrow. Went to connect the the oil pressure sender and wire broke off. Looks like it was glued in the past, so I need a new one.

The alt, volt gauge etc are all working, but I have to finish the water temp and oil pressure before any long drives. I also have to run the ac clutch wire across the engine bay.

I cleaned up the routing of the dual battery cables a little also.

I laid out the glow plug circuit using a momentary switch and relay.

I'll post more pictures in the morning.

Doug
IMG_5251.jpg
IMG_5252.jpg
IMG_5253.jpg
 
Last edited:
Very nice job, You should be proud!
Great solutions on the A/C/alt brackets.

Is the transmission mount unmodified? Engine appears to be sitting about the same center line as the 2F.

Would diff clearance be a problem if your engine was 3" forward?

Reason I'm asking is is I've got another 60 with the same lift as yours but driveshafts lengthened/shortened 3" and another 4BD2 sitting on the garage floor.
Wheels in my mind are turning.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom