Builds The Journey Begins...

crushers

post ho
 
 
Joined
Feb 10, 2004
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22,164
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Tara Ontario
what you need to think about is the reason for the angle (if any) is needed.
the engine is fuel injected so that would not need a prescribed angle.
the coolant is pumped though out under pressure that would not need a prescribed angle.
the lubrication is pumped under pressure so once again there is no need for an angle to the engine.

is there anything else important that would require a predetermined angle to be installed? i can not think of any.
 

doug720

 
Joined
Sep 27, 2008
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El Segundo or Gardnerville!!!
On the angle issue, I have installed Cummins marine diesel engines in my boat. The install manual calls for 5 degree angle to the rear from the sitting water line. That brought me to this point.

But, with out a strong point otherwise, I think I'm going to go with the tail shaft angle's to set engine the angle. Vibrations, or lack thereof, is very important. The engine has pressure oil, water and fuel. So the drive line angle seems most important to me?

Performance wise, My 60 has an H55, 3.70 gears and 33" tires. This put my 70 MPH cruise at 2150 +/- and right in the sweet spot of the 4BD2. MPG should be around 20 +/-, according to others who have used this engine. I've heard higher, but I will have to confirm when finished.

More to come,

Doug
 

crushers

post ho
 
 
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since the tranny and t/case are in the original location then driveshaft angles should be close to stock and you will be golden...
 
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Nice work so far, Doug! You're well on your way into the land of Isuzu diesels. :)

Perhaps I can offer some thoughts on your build, since I've already mounted my 4BD2 twice in my YJ (and the mounts are going to need moved a third time before I'm done!).

For the engine angle, I'd suggest tilting it back far enough so that your driveshaft angles are as close to stock as possible. Of course, you don't want a 20 degree angle, but 5 or even 8 degrees ought to be fine. Do keep an eye on your front driveshaft angle, though. I originally mounted the 4BD2 in my YJ completely flat and soon learned that my rear driveshaft angle would be in excess of 30 degrees, so I had to drop it back a few degrees.

Regarding the turbo clocking, are you moving just the compressor housing or flipping the whole thing upside-down? If you move the compressor housing, you may need to drill new holes for the wastegate actuator. Also, you can flip the hydroboost upside-down if the accumulator canister gets in the way. (If possible, don't flip the whole turbo. You'll have to make a new exhaust flange and it can be a PITA. Just speaking from experience here.)

I'd be interested in seeing your A/C bracket modification. I don't have room for a compressor on my motor because the frame rail gets in the way. I wonder if your mod would work for me?

Finally, where did you find the stock Isuzu motor mounts? Mine were shot and I haven't had any luck in the parts stores.
 

doug720

 
Joined
Sep 27, 2008
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El Segundo or Gardnerville!!!
iroc,

My drive shaft angles are less severe than yours, as I have a longer wheelbase in my60. Changing the angle from 0 to almost 10 degree's did not alter the driveshafts very much. I am going to go with around 5 degree's.

The turbo re-clocking is only the out put/compressor side housing. I don't have a wastegate on my engine (11/91) so it seems fairly easy. Only the the big snap ring is a pain, as it is in position that does not allow me to reach to both ring's holes. I am going to have to rmv the turbo to re-clock. I think I will also replace the o-ring at that time.

The use of the HydroBoost is only if I can't get the stock 60 Vac Booster to fit with engine/turbo. I have the Isuzu alt with Vac pump and want to stay stock.

The ac bracket is easy if you have access to a mill. I removed 0.125 from the contact points on the block side. I also milled the flats where the compressor mounts sit. These I made larger to allow the comp to rotate further up towards the engine. I will have to drill and tap the front top hole as it moved over 1 inch inward. The rear steel bracket mount on the comp itself, needs to be drilled to allow the exist ac/alt bracket hole to be used. It will also need about a 1/4" spacer to fit. I'll post some pics of the mods.

I bought a whole NPR truck, so I had all the parts including motor mounts. They appear to be in very good condition and will work well for my use. I know the dealers have them, though not sure of the costs.

Hope to post more soon.


Doug
 
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doug720

 
Joined
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El Segundo or Gardnerville!!!
Worked on motor mounts tonight. Got them cut out and they seem to fit well. Now grind, debur and weld them in.

I decided to go with around 5 degrees of engine angle to the rear. It just seems to work out. Drive line is very, very close or the same position as with the 2F engine.

No pics tonight, camera battery is dead...Doh!


Doug
 

doug720

 
Joined
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El Segundo or Gardnerville!!!
Something is missing?


Check the pictures, do you see something missing? No more hoist holding up the engine!!!

The motor mounts are in and supporting the 4BD2...Yah. They are only tack welded for now. I want to check the alignment and position one more time. Plus it's way easier to weld without the engine in the way.

I think this is a a big step forward as long as there are no measurement issues.

In regards to the AC mount machining. Check the pictures below. The upper front foot mount, rear upper foot mount and the four block side contact points were milled to allow the compressor to rotate up and in towards the engine. This gave me about 1 inch extra clearance.

I am low on welding supplies, so a restock is needed before any more progress.

But a little bit each day...


Doug
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doug720

 
Joined
Sep 27, 2008
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Location
El Segundo or Gardnerville!!!
Update:

Had to work mostly on other projects this weekend. But got some work in on Toyuzu 60!

I worked a little on fitting the radiator, ac condenser and the Isuzu air to air inter-cooler. The engine height position is very close to the stock, except I moved the diesel towards the passenger side about 2 inches.

The stock 2F fan bolts right on the 4BD2. So I am using the stock shroud on the 4 core 2F rad. I had to move the rad back about 7 inches to fit correctly. This movement allows the intercooler to fit nicely. I am going to fab some new lower rad mounts with captured nuts so it mounts like stock, and fab some side filler/mounts that will bolt into the stock rad mount holes on the front fire wall.

The intercool in/outlet pipes are about 1 inch to narrow to fit around the radiator. I'm going to cut and add new wider 90's to each side to come out under the battery boxes.

I also started the throttle work. I found a 62 throttle pedal and cable. I fab'd a new foot mount for the pedal so it mounts to the 60's holes. The 62 cable looks like it is the correct length and has the correct end for the Isuzu throttle arm. I need to mark the cable hole in the firewall and drill when I pull the engine to finish welding the motor mounts.

Hopefully get the rad mounts done this week. If I do, plumbing next weekend...Then Test Drive!!!!!!!


Doug
 
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doug720

 
Joined
Sep 27, 2008
Messages
2,943
Location
El Segundo or Gardnerville!!!
No Progress Update!

Work is too much right now, and I can't turn it down the way things are in construction these days...

So little has been going on. Still playing with radiator mounts
and related items.

Should be back it soon.

Doug
 

polarweasel

Where's mah cruzah?
 
 
Joined
May 6, 2004
Messages
980
Location
Vancouver Island, BC
That turbo looks mighty close to the brake booster. Any sense of whether that will be a problem? I really like the idea of keeping the stock booster.

Of course, this raises another question: how reliable and rebuildable is the Isuzu alternator and vacuum pump combo?

And damn, that looks nice in there. :)
 

doug720

 
Joined
Sep 27, 2008
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Location
El Segundo or Gardnerville!!!
The pictures make the turbo look closer to the brake booster than is really is. I think a heat shield is all that is needed, especially after I re-clock the turbo outlet from 3 o-clock to 6 o-clock.

If it's a problem still, I already have a hydro-brake unit on the bench. This may be a future up date anyway to get more braking pressure.

The Isuzu NPR trucks run the alt/vac pump stock. There are thousands of these trucks on the road, with few, if any issues.

I made the radiator spacers today and having the radiator lower outlet relocated in board (swapped the drain and the lower hose mount) a few inches to make a better hose route. It will be ready tomorrow. I also am working the inter cooler in/outlet connections. I am changing them from 90 degree fittings to straight connections, and will 90 silicone hoses to plumb. This makes it much easier to mount and plumb.

More pictures tomorrow.


Still plugg'n away...

Doug
 
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dohcdelsol93

snoogans
Joined
Sep 1, 2009
Messages
2,578
Location
Greenville, SC
what kind of suspension are you running? I'm hoping my 4bd1t oil pan will clear my front diff with about a 1/2" over stock lift (shackles)

but i'm also going to be using a ranger torque OD rather than a AA or Downey adapter to give my H42 that sweet spot rpm for 70mph cruising on my 31" tires. This should push my engine forward a good bit (possibly having to run an elec fan) but will hopefully eliminate some of the pan/diff issues i fear i might encounter.

Like you i'm trying to do this swap while leaving all the drive train alone
 

doug720

 
Joined
Sep 27, 2008
Messages
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Location
El Segundo or Gardnerville!!!
Update:

Sorry to all those following my swap for the lack of updates. I've been busy at work...But also on the my swap!

A quick run through one what I've done in the last week.

All the welding of motor mounts, brackets, etc are finished

All the frame and parts are painted

The engine, flywheel(s), clutch and bellhousing are mated

The engine assy is in and bolted

The cooling system is finished and in place, including, radiator, inter-cooler, fan etc

Power steering lines, reservoir and cooler are in and connected

The throttle is finished and connected


I know not much detail but it late and I promise to fill in the details this week.

I'm hoping to make a test drive next weekend. Check the pictures for better explanation of whats been done in last 2 weeks.


Doug
All the inter-cooler piping is ordered and it should be here tuesday
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