Builds The Escape Wagon Restoration

[EscapeWagon62]

Another lesson in checking the easy stuff first.
Had two clunks, one when steering snd one when just starting to back up.
Clunk 1 - I had recently installed the OEM splash shield/skid plate and I have some interference with the larger Old Man Emu steering stabilizer. I’ll modify it accordingly
Clunk 2 - it was my friggin fire extinguisher under the drivers seat

Also reoriented the negative battery cable. Took the starter to body ground cable and routed it underneath my stainless battery tray. That gave me room to properly attached the body ground to negative battery terminal cable.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Dash repair begins
Replacing instrument surround with a brand new one and fixing the broken plastic tabs on the lower dash valence

 

[belouder]

where did you source the instrument surround? I've found one or two but they go quickly!!. Also, I too will be removing the dash pad to replace and want to go through instruments to clean and replace bulbs with LEDs. How difficult is it to remove the instrument cluster and pad?

 

[belouder]

Home stretch
Steam cleaned the headliner and door cards.
Fixed a few loose spots (foam separating from metal) inthe steering wheel using horse sized hypodermic and brown gorilla glue.
I’ll be sewing on a Wheelskins leather wrap in a couple weeks so wanted the steering wheel sorted ahead of time.

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I like your solution to the cover seperating from the metal in the steering wheel. How much did you apply? Just small drips until that area was tight or? Did the gorilla glue expand much and create lumps?

 

[EscapeWagon62]

I like your solution to the cover seperating from the metal in the steering wheel. How much did you apply? Just small drips until that area was tight or? Did the gorilla glue expand much and create lumps?

It was a bit of trial and error.
Gorilla glue (brown original) does expand so I used a few milliliters at a time in any given location. Inject, grab/squeeze wheel to even the glue out, grab and hold for a couple of minutes so it could begin to set then wait an hour and hour or so for it to fully set and expand. Repeat where looseness still exists.

Didn’t end up with any lumps doing it this way.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

where did you source the instrument surround? I've found one or two but they go quickly!!. Also, I too will be removing the dash pad to replace and want to go through instruments to clean and replace bulbs with LEDs. How difficult is it to remove the instrument cluster and pad?

The instrument surround is still available through Toyota, the lower valence is not so I’m having to fix that.
The actual dash pad doesnt need tp come out.
Taking out the lower valence and instrument surround is easy….just 5 screws plus pulling the black plastic handles for the A/C controls for the lower valence (which has to come out first) 8 screws foe the instrument surround. TAKE ALL SCREWS FROM BOTH PIECES OUT BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE LOWER VALENCE AS THEY OVERLAP . DONT FORCE ANYTHING AS THEY ARE OLD AND BRITTLE.

The fiddly part of the instrument surround is the electrical plugs and speedometer cable. Remove screws, pull the panel towards the drivers seat, reach hand in back and disconnect the speedometer cable so you can oull the surround out further. That then give you enough room to unhook the electrical connectors.

 

[cps432]

The instrument surround is still available through Toyota, the lower valence is not so I’m having to fix that.
The actual dash pad doesnt need tp come out.
Taking out the lower valence and instrument surround is easy….just 5 screws plus pulling the black plastic handles for the A/C controls for the lower valence (which has to come out first) 8 screws foe the instrument surround. TAKE ALL SCREWS FROM BOTH PIECES OUT BEFORE TRYING TO REMOVE LOWER VALENCE AS THEY OVERLAP . DONT FORCE ANYTHING AS THEY ARE OLD AND BRITTLE.

The fiddly part of the instrument surround is the electrical plugs and speedometer cable. Remove screws, pull the panel towards the drivers seat, reach hand in back and disconnect the speedometer cable so you can oull the surround out further. That then give you enough room to unhook the electrical connectors.

I really would like to take all the plastic bits and fiberglass the inside to keep them from cracking any more. Maybe it’s worth buying pieces here and there to do over time and then install it all at once when I’m ready to pull the dash apart.

 

[Gretsch]

Dash repair begins
Replacing instrument surround with a brand new one and fixing the broken plastic tabs on the lower dash valence

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The instrument surround is still available through Toyota, the lower valence is not so I’m having to fix that.

So @ChaserFJ60 has been working hard to make some 3D printed pieces for various Landcruiser models. He has successfully 3D printed an entire FJ60 switch bezel which is for sale now:

This item is unavailable - Etsy

Find the perfect handmade gift, vintage & on-trend clothes, unique jewelry, and more… lots more.

www.etsy.com

Maybe you could work with him to see about getting a lower valance printed up instead of you fixing yours. I think all he needs is a version of the part (which you have) to do the printing. It would help you as well as other FJ62 owners going forward. I have crossed mentioned each of you in each others threads in the hopes you guys could work together to get this done. Not sure if timelines work out but seems there is a need for a replacement part which he has shown he can make available. HTH.

 

[TexFJ]

No way you could print the lower valence, unless you're OK wit it looking minecraftish. I've been looking for a solution for a long time, and I really love the Gel Mold idea as that is where the problem usually lies.

I would love to see a 3D print of a 62 front speaker grill, that's doable but may be tedious.

 

[ChaserFJ60]

No way you could print the lower valence, unless you're OK wit it looking minecraftish. I've been looking for a solution for a long time, and I really love the Gel Mold idea as that is where the problem usually lies.

I would love to see a 3D print of a 62 front speaker grill, that's doable but may be tedious.

The last pic is of the prototype but this is my FJ60 3D printed bezel after some finishing

 

[Gretsch]

No way you could print the lower valence, unless you're OK wit it looking minecraftish.

You would have to do some finishing, but it most definitely can be done.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Fixing the lower valence was a bit fiddly but totally doable.
Just finished fixing my broken tabs, sanded, adhesion promoter and painted it.
Came out incredibly well.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Here’s one more photo with both tabs and a crack repaired
I didn’t do as well on the left tab but the area isn’t visible while in the truck

 

[EscapeWagon62]

More dash restoration.
Today - Novus scratch remover for Gauge lenses. Works pretty well.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Gauge needle day

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Finished the upper valence/surround

 

[RDub]

That came out good!

 

[belouder]

Finished the upper valence/surround

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Curious-did you see any warning light icon or even a bulb or wiring next to the "check engine" warning light? The other day I was out on some really rough single track going slowly and I noticed a red indicator light flashing occasionally next to the amber engine light. It didn't stay on long enough for me to identify what it was warning me of as the roads required my attention. It doesn't light when I turn the ignition on.

And your cleanup looks really good!!

BK

 

[EscapeWagon62]

No

Curious-did you see any warning light icon or even a bulb or wiring next to the "check engine" warning light? The other day I was out on some really rough single track going slowly and I noticed a red indicator light flashing occasionally next to the amber engine light. It didn't stay on long enough for me to identify what it was warning me of as the roads required my attention. It doesn't light when I turn the ignition on.

And your cleanup looks really good!!

BK

Curious-did you see any warning light icon or even a bulb or wiring next to the "check engine" warning light? The other day I was out on some really rough single track going slowly and I noticed a red indicator light flashing occasionally next to the amber engine light. It didn't stay on long enough for me to identify what it was warning me of as the roads required my attention. It doesn't light when I turn the ignition on.

And your cleanup looks really good!!

BK

Mine is a blank to the left of the check engine light (front and back photos included)
There are plenty of extra slots for lights in these rigs. My bet is that someone wired something in there. 15-30 min to yank your lower dash (A/C lever area) and the instrument surround. If there is a light in yours you can follow the wire to whatever its for.

 

[EscapeWagon62]

Hell, since the dash was already torn out….might as well yank the light and turn signal switch assebly.
Thanks @63FST
I still have to clear coat them.
PS - the metal part of the stalks are the exact same color as the dash so I pained them oil rubbed bronze.