Builds The Clustertruck Rides Again - Refurbishing a 1975 Chevota

[SuperBuickGuy]

patch n grind?

bottom passenger side of the radiator about 2 tubes in - is that a pinched and capped coolant tube?

have it boiled out - they pressure test it as part of the process... enjoy the huge savings (presuming you still have radiator shops available - most of our have gone away) of about $50 vs. the cost of an aluminum replacement.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

patch n grind?

bottom passenger side of the radiator about 2 tubes in - is that a pinched and capped coolant tube?

have it boiled out - they pressure test it as part of the process... enjoy the huge savings (presuming you still have radiator shops available - most of our have gone away) of about $50 vs. the cost of an aluminum replacement.

Most of the shops around here are gone, but I think I've seen one hanging on somewhere on Rt. 40 nearby. The radiator wasn't leaking a drop, never had to add coolant. It was also cooling the little 283 effectively. The fins are just bent to hell in a lot of places - not sure it's worth the $50 to clean and test it. I think I can still replace it with a 4-core OEM...but I agree, big difference in price. I guess I'll see where I stand when everything else is done.

As to the "pinched and capped" tube - not sure what you're looking at, but at the bottom passenger side there's the main coolant hose bung, the (totally seized) petcock/drain, and the bolt to mount the radiator mount to the truck's frame.

 

[Jdc1]

Best Fin Comb Parts for Cars, Trucks & SUVs

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I may have a radiator support frame near Hagerstown, there is also a radiator shop out here but they act like they don't want to work on anything.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I may have a radiator support frame near Hagerstown, there is also a radiator shop out here but they act like they don't want to work on anything.

Thanks for the offer! I recently accepted a sales job at my company so I'll be doing more driving in the greater MD/DE/PA/NJ/DC area so I might actually get out that way from time to time. Any idea if these changed over the years? Mine isn't really too bad aside from that one hole. I may wind up running it as is - this isn't a concourse resto after all - unless you're really desperate to unload yours!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Alright - no going back now, so might as well keep making progress:

With the radiator out and the coolant drained, I shifted my attention inside.

Pulled the craptastic Chevy?? bench seat:

And the heater (rusty and definitely in need of some love):

Filthy!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

So now I'm staring the root of a couple problems in the face - I got my first look at the heater has been partially hiding for my whole tenure as owner:

Figured out why I never got heat from the rear heater, though I haven't yet identified why this was done...

And found some sinister looking gunk in the lower rad hose and water pump:

As usual - this is my first time seeing most of this stuff - so input, feedback, and opinions always appreciated!

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

I see a long term project beginning here!

SOR lists a few different years on the radiator support frames, if yours isn't broke, no sense in fixing it! Spend the money on a new radiator!

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

My "unique" "2-piece" transmission hump is out:

Not sure how, or why, this is broken, but it has been since I bought it. There's quite a lot of patching to be done on this thing! Not sure how best to re-attach this. Hopefully my friend with a welder will have some ideas...

Below is a good example, once again, of just how far forward everything is in this truck...

For next time, some questions:

1. Is it best to disconnect the speedo and parking brake cable at the transfercase? Can't figure out how to disconnect them without removing the drum...

2. Since the PO was kind enough to weld a plate over the shift tower, any suggestions on how to remove the shift lever?

 

[71FJnick]

For item 2:
Since you're doing a clutch anyway, I would just separate the tranny and transfer case from the engine and pull it from the bottom.
I did that when I did my clutch and didn't have to pull the shifter. That way you pull it all back, then remove the shift tower. You'll need to support the engine with some wood to keep it from rocking until you can pull it out.
Nice to see your project moving forward, I'm in the slow project boat too

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

For item 2:
Since you're doing a clutch anyway, I would just separate the tranny and transfer case from the engine and pull it from the bottom.
I did that when I did my clutch and didn't have to pull the shifter. That way you pull it all back, then remove the shift tower. You'll need to support the engine with some wood to keep it from rocking until you can pull it out.
Nice to see your project moving forward, I'm in the slow project boat too

My hope was to pull the whole driveline as a unit, for simplicity's sake - much easier to separate everything out of the truck than under it. That said, everything is going to have to be re-assembled and "test fit" with the new bellhousing and transmission shift tower to align everything and get the engine location I want...so ultimately it's not added work - just work under the truck vs. work on my feet...

 

[bikersmurf]

Speedo cable should come out when you loosen the finger nut around the cable.

Ebrake cable won't come out without pulling the drum.

I'd cut the shifter off and worry about its removal when it is easier to access the top of the tcase.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Speedo cable should come out when you loosen the finger nut around the cable.

Ebrake cable won't come out without pulling the drum.

I'd cut the shifter off and worry about its removal when it is easier to access the top of the tcase.

Well, that's embarassing - I futzed around with the thumb-screw/finger nut thing on the speedo cable for about 20min last night and gave up - wouldn't budge. Casually gave it a twist this morning, and it popped right off...no clue...one more disconnect off the list I'm hoping to figure out why my speedometer is useless below 25mph while I'm in here too...I'm hoping dirty cable.

 

[brian]

your little broken off piece, was actually cut off with a torch.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

your little broken off piece, was actually cut off with a torch.

The only reason I suspect this may have been done was so that the tranny hump clears the fuel tank on its way out; without moving the tank - at least I noticed that when I pulled it. Still seems ridiculous to me...
Seems like that will be a fun piece to get re-attached...

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

the PO was torch happy... looks like he liked his latex paint a well

pull the top cover off the transmission - you should have enough clearance to pull it (the clutch forks are under it. To be honestly, it's been decades since I've pulled a shifter off a np435 - but I don't think the shifter comes off easily (as opposed to pulling it with the top cover)

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

The only reason I suspect this may have been done was so that the tranny hump clears the fuel tank on its way out; without moving the tank - at least I noticed that when I pulled it. Still seems ridiculous to me...
Seems like that will be a fun piece to get re-attached...

lol, used the torch right next to the gas tank. I guess he'd say it worked - I'd say 'whew'

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

the PO was torch happy... looks like he liked his latex paint a well

pull the top cover off the transmission - you should have enough clearance to pull it (the clutch forks are under it. To be honestly, it's been decades since I've pulled a shifter off a np435 - but I don't think the shifter comes off easily (as opposed to pulling it with the top cover)

Almost 100% sure this is the stock H42, not a np435. Either way, from everything I've read, you need to push down the collar about 1/2 inch and twist. Normally this wouldn't be an issue, but it's mounted tight to the firewall with a steel plate welded over it...may just have to pull the top cover and deal with it when it's out...

Also - where are you seeing latex paint?

lol, used the torch right next to the gas tank. I guess he'd say it worked - I'd say 'whew'

A WHOLE lot of stupid went into this truck. A whole lot of stupid went into buying it, too . I just hope I'm smart enough to fix it.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

A WHOLE lot of stupid went into this truck. A whole lot of stupid went into buying it, too . I just hope I'm smart enough to fix it.

I'm ambivalent to this - anyone who has worked on cars has, at some point, done something on it where the next owner will post and whine about how terrible that is... my goal is, when I die, to be watching Powerblock TV from heaven and see the punk kid complain about the work I did on one of my projects - his case may accidentally get misfiled into the 'hell' box

tl;dr embrace your inner hack and enjoy your 4x4.... you'd be not-surprised-at-all at the number of 'perfect' yet 'not-done' "projects" I've gotten for a song. Or said yet another way, don't let perfect get in the way of done.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

tl;dr embrace your inner hack and enjoy your 4x4.... you'd be not-surprised-at-all at the number of 'perfect' yet 'not-done' "projects" I've gotten for a song. Or said yet another way, don't let perfect get in the way of done.

Trying! As I've mentioned in the past - I try to take "bite size" chunks, projects that should take a couple months (or about 20 minutes, if you're @SuperBuickGuy). This is definitely the biggest bite I've taken, but it should also be the most rewarding when complete. The goal is to fix what ails it, get it back together better than before, then drive it while I save up the funds for the next project. Beyond possibly welding my transmission tunnel back together, the goal is zero bodywork this time around. The sole focus is on getting the driveline properly oriented, and everything else that entails (exhaust, driveshafts, etc.) After it all goes back together, I intend to drive the piss out of it.