Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40

[Braden620]

Did you mean milliamps here, not millivolts?

If so I may understand what you're getting at... I think.

Yes. My bad. My circuits professor would be ashamed. A current test would indicate amperage. A voltage test would indicate voltage. Since we are testing in series between two conductive components that are normally in contact we can say that if there is a voltage difference there is current.

 

[Braden620]

Current goes where it's demanded. IF he was grounding his fuel pump, EFI, lights, winch, etc. to the radiator I'd agree their could be a problem.

The radiator, radiator support, and for that matter the entire engine block are all part of the vehicle's ground path. If you put a multimeter on the radiator or support to check voltage you ought to see a value pretty close to battery voltage (positive lead on battery positive, negative lead touching exposed metal on the rad or support). Alternatively, checking resistance between the battery's negative lead and exposed metal on the rad or support should give you a nice low resistance level. Both of these must be true for the horns to work.

What you are describing is only checking the battery voltage, not the difference between the radiator (isolated) and its mount. The battery does not come into play here. You can probe all over the truck and get a voltage when one lead is directly connected to the battery, this only tells us that whatever your other lead is touching has a path to ground (negative post).

 

[Honger]

What you are describing is only checking the battery voltage, not the difference between the radiator (isolated) and its mount. The battery does not come into play here. You can probe all over the truck and get a voltage when one lead is directly connected to the battery, this only tells us that whatever your other lead is touching has a path to ground (negative post).

Gotcha, agreed.

It was millivolts tripping me up.

Agree that if another ground path is bad the current COULD be using the radiator as a path.

Sorry to jump into the weeds in your thread @GA Architect !

 

[waiting for time]

If the bracket is not distorted in a way it puts stress on the radiator my first bet would be the added weight and/or maybe the stress from the different hoses pulling on the radiator.

leaks from the bottom might suggest that the bottom is fixated in the bracket and the top has some play.

 

[GA Architect]

If the bracket is not distorted in a way it puts stress on the radiator my first bet would be the added weight and/or maybe the stress from the different hoses pulling on the radiator.

leaks from the bottom might suggest that the bottom is fixated in the bracket and the top has some play.

Leaks from upper and lower corners, thus something probably is askew. I'll figure it out & report back.

 

[pjohnson]

Could just be poor manufacturing, just saying...

Yes, even OEM can prematurely fail.

 

[GA Architect]

Could just be poor manufacturing, just saying...

Yes, even OEM can prematurely fail.

Yeah, I've thought about that....so I'm trying a different manufacture this time.

 

[Braden620]

Yeah, I've thought about that....so I'm trying a different manufacture this time.

Dibbs on that old leaky useless one.

 

[GA Architect]

Alright, got the old radiator drained and removed.

The U-Support seems to be square and true.

 

[tstepp920]

I have a new OEM radiator still in the box. Now I'm second guessing the purchase. I need to stay off MUD.

 

[GA Architect]

The new CSF 2888 radiator arrived today, so it looked like I was well on the way to getting this project completed..........until!

$HIT!!!! That won't do! I am NOT going to modify the U-Support or the new radiator......time for some more research! Anyone care to throwout some radiators, make & model number that are a direct replacement for the OEM radiator units?

Note: Below is how the OEM radiator unit aligns inside the U-Support.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

The new CSF 2888 radiator arrived today, so it looked like I was well on the way to getting this project completed..........until!

View attachment 2569342 View attachment 2569344

$HIT!!!! That won't do! I am NOT going to modify the U-Support or the new radiator......time for some more research! Anyone care to throwout some radiators, make & model number that are a direct replacement for the OEM radiator units?

Note: Below is how the OEM radiator unit aligns inside the U-Support.

View attachment 2569348 View attachment 2569351

i am very relieved Rick to see oem factory RED fluid coming out and from the longer term staining ..............


if any other color ............?

there could be words ....

 

[DangerNoodle]

Mishimoto or Champion if you are interested in going to aluminum. It will cool better, so you may not overheat going up Ophir next time.

 

[GA Architect]

Mishimoto or Champion if you are interested in going to aluminum. It will cool better, so you may not overheat going up Ophir next time.

Interesting, I was researching both those last night. One thing that I did notice about the Champion, their attachments brackets are different than the others. They use some sort of vertical angle "L" piece.

 

[Jdc1]

Interesting, I was researching both those last night. One thing that I did notice about the Champion, their attachments brackets are different than the others. They use some sort of vertical angle "L" piece.

The Champion that I installed into a ‘69 is a little high making contact with the hood. I have to go back and slot the mounting holes so it will sit a little lower.

 

[GA Architect]

For the sake of moving forward, I'm going to re-drill the 7 bolt holes in the new 2888 radiator. Wish me luck!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

For the sake of moving forward, I'm going to re-drill the 7 bolt holes in the new 2888 radiator. Wish me luck!

Rick I would like you to consider calling toyota now and ordering up a 10pack of these 90119-A0151

There a chisel tip

Wide double sems washers

And good thick silver bling plating

25mm long to help draw up things tight


My trooper bolts for task like this

Wide washers kick azz !

Drill tips eazy starting and Inital thread catch

 

[Braden620]

Mishimoto or Champion if you are interested in going to aluminum. It will cool better, so you may not overheat going up Ophir next time.

Please do NOT buy a mishimoto. Made in the PRC. Take a stand and help stop the spread of communism! Buy American or in the case of Toyota, buy Japanese!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

DENSO Japan

makes land cruiser Radiators

oldest they still make is the 80 series ?

why not make the 40 series and 60 ?


then quality will have met its match !

Sc#ew anything for my land cruiser made in the usa, detroit NO way jack !

unless i make it in my skunk works !

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

If the bracket is not distorted in a way it puts stress on the radiator my first bet would be the added weight and/or maybe the stress from the different hoses pulling on the radiator.

leaks from the bottom might suggest that the bottom is fixated in the bracket and the top has some play.

^^^. Are your motor mounts tight? Are hoses stiff that engine rev twists motor that stress hose connection areas?