GA Architect
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Actually had a 2nd set of plug wires, replaced them all, and still no luck. I still have my '77 points dizzy, so I'll hook it all back up as it came from Toyota and go from there.
Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (7 Viewers)
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Actually had a 2nd set of plug wires, replaced them all, and still no luck. I still have my '77 points dizzy, so I'll hook it all back up as it came from Toyota and go from there.
I had an issue once with an Austin Healey, it started fine normally but as soon as it got to a certain temperature it stopped an wouldn’t start until it cooled down. But there was no real patern as to how warm or how far it cooled down again. Replaced all kind of stuff but the problem kept comming back. In the end we found a hair fracture, not visable by nakend eye, in the, original rotor. Funny thing the same fracture was found in both original new spare rotors. It apenarend that the rotor shaft and the rotor were just a little bit to tight causing the fracture when it all got warm. Took us 3 years to find.
Very frustrating after an expensive restauration.
From back when my prime movers were vintage/junk GM I seem to recall that ignition coils and condensers could have intermittent to total failures which many folks attributed to heat. The intermittent type was hard to troubleshoot.
My dad also taught me wait til it was very dark and with the engine idling open the hood and look for sparks. This technique can be more effective than using a VOM.
My dad also taught me wait til it was very dark and with the engine idling open the hood and look for sparks. This technique can be more effective than using a VOM.
Still it is hard to find a spark leak inside the rotor that is inside the dizzy cap.
True.
Arcing inside the distributor cap sometimes can be identified by the presence of "carbon tracks" on the inner walls of the cap. I do not recall ever having a rotor that arced internally. Worn and burned external contacts and weak springs yes.
When I was young and drove old American cars I carried a spare rotor, points, condenser....etc. Rather than spending much time diagnosing the root cause I just replaced the components. Back then the parts were inexpensive even on my budget.
We actualy changed the rotor with a new original one twice with the same results, you don’t expect the problem to be in a part you just replaced twice. When you drive an older English car, no mather how good a condition, you always Carry spares.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
Soooo true ... I used to keep spare piston and valves even in my triumph spitfire ... wish I carried a spare crankshaft that one time however lol
Is there power to the coil when cranking as well?
1Fine40
Rust Buster
This problem sounds like the electronic part of the ignition, I think it's called an ignitor, is intermittent. Had that happen to me many moons ago (before the V8 swap). I fixed it by going to a traditional points type dizzy...more hassle to set up, but easier to diagnose in my opinion.
Worked well until I threw a rod in the motor a year or two later..then not so much
. Migrated to the dark side thereafter
..
Good luck sir!
Worked well until I threw a rod in the motor a year or two later..then not so much
. Migrated to the dark side thereafter..Good luck sir!
GA Architect
SILVER Star
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- #1,409
This problem sounds like the electronic part of the ignition, I think it's called an ignitor, is intermittent. Had that happen to me many moons ago (before the V8 swap). I fixed it by going to a traditional points type dizzy...more hassle to set up, but easier to diagnose in my opinion.
Worked well until I threw a rod in the motor a year or two later..then not so much
Good luck sir!
Unless I can find the current problem, that is the route I plan on taking. Back to points. Heck, drove with points from 1983 till 1992, and never really had any issues. Back then, during routine maintenance, I'd just change them, set them with a match book and drive on.
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
May also just be the ballast resistor at the front of the ignitor
You can check that
They go on point setups or ignitor setups ... they get old ... and break like us
You can check that
They go on point setups or ignitor setups ... they get old ... and break like us
GA Architect
SILVER Star
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- #1,411
Pulled the electronic dizzy, re-installed the original '77 points dizzy. Reconnected the igniter wires, and what do you know, fired right up. I set the timing, and took a nice drive in the fog.
I guess I need to stick to the ol adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
I guess I need to stick to the ol adage, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
JohnnyC
Long ago TLCA# 2231
But... it was broke ... you just fixed it lol
1Fine40
Rust Buster
Heh, points just seem to feel right in a low-revving engine 
. That electronic dizzy probably has a flaky transistor or dried
out capacitor which is failing...but points? Nah, you just change them out, install a new condenser if needed and away you go
Gotta love a simple
.....
. That electronic dizzy probably has a flaky transistor or driedout capacitor which is failing...but points? Nah, you just change them out, install a new condenser if needed and away you go
Gotta love a simple
.....
GA Architect
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- #1,414
I now have this new Toyota 19100-61180 points unit and new plug wires. I guess I'll find time to put them on my rig here soon.
1Fine40
Rust Buster
I'll just throw a word of caution out there on this distributor swap business. A long time ago, I had a stock 77 FJ40 and it needed a tuneup.
I replaced points, plugs and condenser and then set the timing to factory and cranked down the dizzy hold down clamp..wish it was the end of story, but alas, when I cranked down the clamp, it cracked in two behind the dizzy so I did not see it. A week later on a long drive with a vehicle full of kids, the Cruiser started lurching and bucking and acting like fuel pump wasn't keeping up. 50 miles from nowhere, I learned that there was ZERO oil pressure and an engine that was severely damaged.
The dizzy had walked it's way up and that nice flat tang at the bottom that drives the oil pump didn't anymore..so the whole engine got pretty toasted due to lack of lubrication...
. Thus began my journey to the dark side with a V8 conversion.
Sad but true story, so keep a wary eye on the condition of the hold down clamp!!! I've seen not a few of the OEM clamp on other's rigs cracked since then and I hope to save a few others from a similar fate as mine..remember, if you can't be good for anything else, at least be a good Bad example!!
I replaced points, plugs and condenser and then set the timing to factory and cranked down the dizzy hold down clamp..wish it was the end of story, but alas, when I cranked down the clamp, it cracked in two behind the dizzy so I did not see it. A week later on a long drive with a vehicle full of kids, the Cruiser started lurching and bucking and acting like fuel pump wasn't keeping up. 50 miles from nowhere, I learned that there was ZERO oil pressure and an engine that was severely damaged.
The dizzy had walked it's way up and that nice flat tang at the bottom that drives the oil pump didn't anymore..so the whole engine got pretty toasted due to lack of lubrication.... Thus began my journey to the dark side with a V8 conversion. Sad but true story, so keep a wary eye on the condition of the hold down clamp!!! I've seen not a few of the OEM clamp on other's rigs cracked since then and I hope to save a few others from a similar fate as mine..remember, if you can't be good for anything else, at least be a good Bad example!!
Were you able to disassemble the entire heater (top and bottom box) and leave the Core hooked up?
GA Architect
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- #1,417
Someone is jealous.......and that someone is me. Probably going to be another year before mine is back on the road
. That is a clean rig!
It does get cold in GA! I used to live in Helen. Sure is beautiful out there. And what about those guidestones!?
Awesome thread.
It does get cold in GA! I used to live in Helen. Sure is beautiful out there. And what about those guidestones!?
Awesome thread.
