I like the toyota bed liner mat used as a cargo mat.
Build The Architect's '77 FJ40
- Thread starter GA Architect
- Start date
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Do you normally take the top off of the sides when you remove it? If so how come?
- Thread starter
- #1,363
Yes, for the past few years when I have taken the top off, I have disassembled the upper side & roof. The reason, never had the head height or room to store it any other way. Now, with a 10' ceiling in my garage, I plan to install a ceiling mounted lift/pulley system.
Here is the photos of after my winch up grades. New control box cover, installed Raychem shrink wrap on the motor wires, used new stainless steel clamps, installed new boots on the motor terminals, and used stainless steel bolts to finish it up.
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Yep, I painted the flip cover black...it was brown (rust)...Just me, "making it mine".
I need to do this to my Warn. Where did you get the parts? Does Warn sell them directly? I have not researched yet. Thx and great work. PS I’m in GA too.
I have not wheeled my 40 either. Just mall crawling for ice cream. If you go up to Tate again let me know. We have a cabin up near there and it’s beautiful country.
I have a question relating to the top disassembly/reassembly. I have to do a fiberglass repair due to the fact that the PO installed an aftermarket sunroof. Was going to deliver the entire top to fiberglass shop but now wondering how hard is it to separate the associated parts from the top itself? This would obviously make it much easier to transport to his shop. Thx for advice.
Several updates and repairs are in the process. Due to a few coolant leaks, my rig has the front engine compartment torn apart right now. I'm in the process of replacing all the coolant hoses, water pump, radiator, and other maintenance items.
#1 - Unbeknownst to me, the radiator support rods were misaligned and my newish radiator couldn't move/vibrate as needed. Per the radiator shop, all four corners of the radiator (below the upper tank and above the lower tank) had stress cracks from the rig flexing and radiator not....Such is life, so a new radiator is getting installed. The support rods will be adjusted, realigned, new rubber bushings as well as rubber washers between the radiator & radiator U-bracket/housing will get installed.
#2 - Newish water pump was leaking out the weep hole...time to install the Aisin WPT-063 unit for my rig. Will install with new gasket, some FIPG, and cleaned bolts torqued to 27 lbs.
#3 - After I took the water pump off, noticed that the thermostat housing was leaking a bit as well. So I removed, cleaned it and the mating surface up, cleaned the newish bolts, installed a new gasket, some Toyota FIPG, and reinstalled torqued to 18 lbs.
#4 - Replaced the leaking old original 'zig-zag' heater joint at the rear of the engine with a new Toyota 87251-30200 joint.
#5 - Will install all new hoses and hose clamps. Going to use some constant tension spring clamps and some stainless steel ABA Safe Constant Tension Hose clamps.
#6 - Also, while I'm in there, I'm cleaning and painting the area as needed.
#7 - All new Toyota pink coolant will refill the system.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year's to all...
Rick could you expound on #1 a little? The support rod installation seems like it would be something that even this 1 banana mechanic couldn't mess up. I guess not. And Merry Christmas to you and yours also.
I made a system in my garage. I made it with unistrut and pulleys. I use nylon rope to lift it through the pulleys. I use a small warm winch to lift it. I made a platform from plywood and a pvc fence post that goes inside to hold my doors. One goes inside and the other on top. Once it’s up I have cables to connect it to take the load off of the rope.
J
ust to give you an idea.
- Thread starter
- #1,371
Other than removing about 30 M6 bolts, it's a piece of cake. This would also give you a look at your weatherstripping at the joint as well.
- Thread starter
- #1,372
Alright, I'm going to shoot from the hip, but I believe I'm close.......Being my rig has AC, it has a condenser in front of the radiator. In order to locate it there, the installer had to move the radiator back a bit. In order to keep the original radiator support rods, they just bent them to shorten, and then fitted them back into the bracket. By doing this, the angles were all off, the rubber bushing on the rods were flattened on one side, and the radiator U-support bracket could not move. Sort of locked into place, thus my radiator was fixed in a rigid position. So, when my rig would flex, this put a lot of strain on the radiator and it's support. Thus causing the hairline cracks at each corner of the radiator. I'll follow-up tomorrow with some picks showing what I'm talking about.
- Thread starter
- #1,373
Warn has a good bit of parts for the old winches, but not all.
- Thread starter
- #1,374
#1 - Radiator leaks:
#2 - Water pump leaks:
Installing a new OEM heater valve:
#2 - Water pump leaks:
Installing a new OEM heater valve:
Just replaced heater valve today and also the tube bolted to the passenger side of valve cover (for oil cooler)....What a PITA with coolant in it,but it wasn't that bad..I clamped the hoses but it took me 3/4 of the day....
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- Thread starter
- #1,378
Slowly but surely, I'm putting my rig back together. Some progress photos.
The old zig-zag heater joint leaked, so I installed this Toyota unit, 87251-30200.
Installed a new Aisin water pump, WPT-063.
Installed a new Aisin fan clutch, FCT-049.
All new coolant hoses. The 5/8" Gates heater hoses are receiving Toyota's #90467-21010 constant tension band clamps.
The new By-Pass hose received two stainless steel AWAB marine grade hose clamps.
(NOTE TO SELF: Next time I decide to remove the coolant, radiator, hoses and it's accessories, be sure I have all the new parts needed for re-installation!!!!!!)
The old zig-zag heater joint leaked, so I installed this Toyota unit, 87251-30200.
Installed a new Aisin water pump, WPT-063.
Installed a new Aisin fan clutch, FCT-049.
All new coolant hoses. The 5/8" Gates heater hoses are receiving Toyota's #90467-21010 constant tension band clamps.
The new By-Pass hose received two stainless steel AWAB marine grade hose clamps.
(NOTE TO SELF: Next time I decide to remove the coolant, radiator, hoses and it's accessories, be sure I have all the new parts needed for re-installation!!!!!!)
Just gotta love a perfectionist.... were I doing this same job, Ace hardware would likely see my happy butt gathering garden hose clamps of various sizes...... Rick patiently waits on his cutting edge clamps (probably developed by NASA) 
Daaaang! Thats a fine 77.