Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (11 Viewers)

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As always it it looking excellent my friend! Your love for your ‘77 shows.
 
If I was ever to go back to stock, yours would be the model I would look to for guidance! (Too bad I have migrated to the dark V8
side already...:cool:)

Cheers to you for an inspiring obsession!:beer:
 
Rick, where did you find the #10 size hose clamps? Looked at a bunch of sites but not finding. Easier to ask you ;) thx

GA Architect said:
Slowly but surely, I'm putting my rig back together. Some progress photos.

The old zig-zag heater joint leaked, so I installed this Toyota unit, 87251-30200.
View attachment 1869837

Installed a new Aisin water pump, WPT-063.
View attachment 1869875

Installed a new Aisin fan clutch, FCT-049.
View attachment 1869839

All new coolant hoses. The 5/8" Gates heater hoses are receiving Toyota's #90467-21010 constant tension band clamps.
View attachment 1869840

The new By-Pass hose received two stainless steel AWAB marine grade hose clamps.
View attachment 1869861



(NOTE TO SELF: Next time I decide to remove the coolant, radiator, hoses and it's accessories, be sure I have all the new parts needed for re-installation!!!!!!) :bang:
Click to expand...
 
merbesfield said:
Rick, where did you find the #10 size hose clamps? Looked at a bunch of sites but not finding. Easier to ask you ;) thx
Click to expand...

I bought this AWAB kit a few years ago. Now, I believe they are owned by ABA.
IMG_4155.jpg


Click here for a good selection of these clamps: Fisheries Supply

If you like looking at clamps: NORMA

And for the larger clamps on my radiator hoses, I used NORMA's "ABA Safe" units in the ABA S40 variety.
 
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Having brother Rick on board here is like having that really smart kid back in school to help you with your math homework! :D
 
emac said:
As for the radiator supports, I have A/C as well and my rods had to be adjusted. I think I moved the stop washer back a little and rewelded it too avoid too much pressure.
Click to expand...

Here what I did on my radiator support rods. On the drivers side I cut the welded stop washer off, ground all the weld, and cut about 2" of new threads.
IMG_4152.jpg



On the passenger side, I located the rod to an extra bolt hole on my battery support and bent the rod at an applicable angle.
IMG_4154.jpg
 
I noticed you’ve got a power steering pump mounted down low on the driver’s side. Did you add that? Did you build or buy the mount bracket? I’d like to add PS to mine. I’ve already got an AC compressor in the driver’s side upper location that most PS kits use to add the PS pump. Your bracket may be my solution.
 
firefighterjed said:
I noticed you’ve got a power steering pump mounted down low on the driver’s side. Did you add that? Did you build or buy the mount bracket? I’d like to add PS to mine. I’ve already got an AC compressor in the driver’s side upper location that most PS kits use to add the PS pump. Your bracket may be my solution.
Click to expand...

Been a while, but I seem to remember Vintage Air offered a bracket to move a/c compressor to right side on the 40’s.
 
firefighterjed said:
I noticed you’ve got a power steering pump mounted down low on the driver’s side. Did you add that? Did you build or buy the mount bracket? I’d like to add PS to mine. I’ve already got an AC compressor in the driver’s side upper location that most PS kits use to add the PS pump. Your bracket may be my solution.
Click to expand...

Mine came from Classic Cruisers in Poncha Springs, Colorado. I believe Mark's Offroad has the bracket that mounts the pump low on the drivers side as well?
 
Dang it! Must have trash in the idle passage somewhere. Rig started yesterday morning with the choke, then pushed it in a minute or two later and it shut down. Then it wouldn't restart. It did this once about a month ago, but restarted after a few minutes.

Got home last night, checked the fuses, all the grounds and broke out the multi-meter. Power was all there to the right places, even the idle solenoid. Jumped in, and it fired right up. Took it for a 5 mile run and it ran great. Then, as I was pulling into the drive, it bucked like it was starved for fuel and shut down.....Check the fuel window on the carb, it showed fuel. Got back in and it starts back up. Drove around for a few miles and parked it. Time to hit up @cruiseroutfit for a carb kit or two, and get to work on rebuilding 11.15.76 OEM unit.

Oh well, I'll replace the fuel filter and install one of my backup carbs. Probably use the 12.26.75 Aisin I rebuilt, shown below.

IMG_1149.JPG


IMG_1160.JPG
 
An update: Was in the garage last night about to change carbs. I tried starting my rig one last time before I made the switch, but no fire. When I took the air cleaner off, I looked down the carb and noticed gas in it. So I push the pump lever and sure enough it spit fuel into the passage...I scratched my head, and step back for a minute...Broke out the multi-meter again, and couldn't find the missing voltage. So I pulled a spark plug, and checked to make sure I had power to the plugs. Guess what, my 6 little ceramic Denso's W14EXR-U are NOT spitting blue sparks?

So, I know I have power to the coil....but no power to the plugs. Must be one of these; Yazaki plug wires, spark plugs or the dizzy?
 
could be coil plug wire.... ive had them fail before

put on a V/Ohm meter and check it out... you have power to the coil you checked with a meter or test light right?
 
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