Builds The Architect's '77 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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A package came today. My 40 will get a new radio to supply those Rockford-Fosgate's! With a little trimming of the face plate and adding an additional connector to the constant 12V lighter connection, should be a straight forward install.

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GA Architect said:
Due to the aftermarket CCOT A/C unit, the wide fan belts that typically fit our 40's doesn't work on that pulley of my rig. I had to go with the XL 25-9580 NAPA belt. I am looking to see if I can replace the pulley/clutch on my CCOT A/C unit for one that has the wide groove pulley. I think another option is to get the 3 belt pulley from an FJ60 and rework the brackets. I believe the inner pulley of the FJ60 is for a thin belt? :meh:
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I did this on Tucker's fj40. I had a wide groove pulley special made for that compressor. That's the ONLY proper way to run that a/c kit. You don't want to run your alternator off that thin belt for any extended periods of time. on our maiden test drive the belt started disintegrating around Arkansas and by new mexico we were on the side of the road :) the spare belt I had brought was 1/2 too short. luckily we made it too a semi truck shop that had an assortment of belts and we got one to bypass the compressor and just run the alternator.
 
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Next for my rig, some Dizzy work! Either fix the leaking vacuum advancer, replace it, or install a new dizzy....More to follow.

Well, the 40 takes a back seat today and out comes another toy. I introduce, my Yoder Smoker! With six racks of baby backs on the apple wood smoke, these will be ready just before the big game!

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New Trollhole Dizzy Install - it wasn't all peaches and cream for me! After 3 hours of wrenching last night....finally got the new dizzy in and running.

Why 3 hours, you ask? I'm slow! Well, not really. But I'm too methodical to do anything quick when it comes to electrical stuff. Old dizzy came out rather easily, 10 minutes at most. Now is when the fun began. Installed the new dizzy, it looked to be a tooth off compared to the photos of the old location. Finally got it where I thought was right, push the rig out of the basement, and tried to fire it up. It hit, but no oil pressure, so I quickly shut it down, maybe 5 seconds at most. Pushed it back inside, and proceeded to try and reinstall it. Some how, I totally lost where the rotor was to be pointing, so I was back to square one. Thanks to the good members here on MUD and my Haynes Manual, I was able to figure out the procedure to installing a new distributer.

So all I had to do was find the BB! Jacked up the rear end/both wheels and had my son hold one tire while I turned the other...slow process! But this was my "Here's your sign moment!"....All I had to do was jack up the right rear tire and spin it, while leaving the left on the ground. So, with that process solved, I turned the flywheel to where I thought was the BB. Its location was a good bit different that where I had initially installed it. Removed the dizzy and I had to take a flat head screw driver and turned the oil sending unit to where it needed to be, and inserted the dizzy with a 'POP' at the end. Thus I knew it was seated this time. Tried to fire it up...no spark?....CRAP, in my haste, I forgot to reattach the dizzy to the coil.....Tried again, nothing except for a small back fire!!!! BUT - BUT, did see the oil pressure gauge start going up even with out it cranking, that was a positive. So I thought, where is the darn TDC line? Turned the right rear wheel slowly, and what do you know, about 90 degrees later, there is another smaller hole in my fly wheel!...Scratched my head, and thought. Maybe this is the BB? With nothing to loose, took the dizzy out again, and turned the oil sending unit to align with about 23 degrees in front of the 4th plug. Reinstalled my dizzy, it went in with a pop again, and the rotor's direction looked to be similar to a few pictures I've seen towards the #4 plug. With it all hooked back up, turned the key and it started. WOW, Me Happy! It wasn't idling smooth, so I turned the dizzy and it smoothed on out. Being the rig was indoors now, I didn't want to STANK-UP the house, so I shut it down, turned out the lights, went up stairs and got cleaned up.

Oh, for what it's worth, I never found the TDC line? I know it is to be 1" past the BB, about three tooths on the fly wheel. Couldn't find/see it?

So, after work today, I'm timing up my rig (without the vacuum line attached) and setting the idle. Then off for a test drive...if all goes well, my FJ40's DD duty will be back in service for Friday. :)

Old & New Dizzy's:

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OK, following up on my dizzy install. Got home last night and timed it up without the vacuum line attached and put the BB in the lower part of the window, (I've read to possibly add a little advance) and set the idle at 650 RPM. Took it for a drive and was happy for the most part, except for a little pinging. Took out most of the additional advance and set the top of the BB just on the line. Now I'm happy for the whole part! :)

All in all, a :banana: job that I made into a :banana::banana::banana: job, due to my skill set! But I learned some valuable lessons along the way. Bet if I had to do it again, I could do the total install in less than 45 minutes.

Note: On wiring the TH dizzy, I took the red wire and attached it to the incoming ballast resistor post that has the BY wire, and the dizzy's black wire to the negative post on the coil. I disconnected all the original igniter wires off the coil, but left the starter wire that hits the positive post on the coil. Once I replace the starter with a new Gear Reduction model, I'll remove the existing '77 igniter/coil pack and opt to install my new Toyota #90919-02015 coil. Then the dizzy's red wire will go to the coil's positive post and the black wire to the negative post, and the line between the coil and starter will be left unattached. Here's my wiring diagram at this time:

Trollhole Wiring Diagram Only - '77 OEM Coil.jpg


Now to start working on the FJ60 coil and dizzy, a-la Coolerman's directions, for the new 2F that is being machined.
 
Yesterday I was reading different threads here on MUD about carbs and air cleaners. One thread was mentioning about the HAI (Hot Air Intake) in some of the FJ40's air cleaners, and it possibly could stop functioning. Thus, if stuck closed, the carb would be pulling HOT air off the manifold 100% of the time. That can not be good for a carb. So I checked mine.....Sure enough, it was stuck in the closed position. How I know it is stuck closed, I checked it after driving around and warmed up the engine. The sensor isn't working, so I manually opened it up. Drove my rig to work this morning, and it did just fine. Also I noticed that when I got to work, my carb fan didn't come on and the engine bay near the carb wasn't as HOT as it typically is. I would venture a guess that a carb sucking cooler air would be cooler than a carb sucking 100% very HOT air? :confused:

I also know that when you reduce the carbs intake air temperature, you increase the air's density, and this provides even more oxygen inside the cylinders for better combustion. Being that I don't live in the coldest of climates, I'm just going to leave the HAI open and drive it. :steer:
 
I'll post up something I'm working on....I received this:
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After a little cleaning:
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Cleaned the inside:
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See below for the outside.
 
I have one of those cool 2F valve covers, cleaned it all up and when I installed my rebuilt engine I discovered it didn't work with my 77 air cleaner. Hope your works, I love that cast 2F in the valve cover.

Nice towel, surprised the guards let you keep it from your time in the slammer.......
 
Danny - With this installed, no chance of a missing blown-off oil cap. :idea:

myquestoyota said:
I have one of those cool 2F valve covers, cleaned it all up and when I installed my rebuilt engine I discovered it didn't work with my 77 air cleaner. Hope your works, I love that cast 2F in the valve cover.

Nice towel, surprised the guards let you keep it from your time in the slammer.......
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Quest - Did you use the 2F valve cover off of a FJ60? If so, I understand that is the short one and doesn't work for the 77's taller Aisan carbs. The one seen here is the taller 2F valve cover that came on the 78/79 (+/-) 55's 2F engines, same size as the '77 40's. I got the studs and acorn nuts as well....This will be installed on my '86 2F that is being blueprinted/balanced and rebuilt with all new Toyota parts. Beno is putting the parts together for the machinist. I will polish up the FJ60 2F valve cover and place it on my conference table as a conversation piece.

Oh, the Father-in-Law made friends with the guards. Hell, they even let him take the institution's truck for cigarettes and beer. That was many-many moons ago......;)
 
GA, it is a shorter one, color me green.:crybaby: Some day I will come across one of those free or reasonable. Maybe I'll peddle my short one and get a taller one. Thanks for the clarity.
You do your homework, don't you? :hmm:
 
I think the 2F valve cover I have has the threaded cap and the one on my engine without the cast 2F has the non threaded cap. How about yours GA, threaded?
 
myquestoyota said:
I think the 2F valve cover I have has the threaded cap and the one on my engine without the cast 2F has the non threaded cap. How about yours GA, threaded?
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Yes, the original '77 valve cover has the push on oil cap. And on a few occasions, I've looked under the hood to find my oil cap skewed. The first time it happened, I thought, goodness, I need to do a better job of reinstalling my oil cap......Then a few months later, it happened again, and I knew it wasn't something I did. So I searched and found.....well, sad to say.....my 38 year old 2F is just worn out, and has "Blow-By" issues. Thus the rebuilding of an '86 2F.....

Oh, the new valve cover with the screw-in cap isn't to keep the oil cap on, it is because I think the embossed "2F" sitting front and center is cool looking! I wanted one, so I got one. :hillbilly:
 
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Honger said:
Is the final finish done with paint... Or just polished? Looks great in any case!
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Honger - Thanks. That is just a polished aluminum valve cover. Any aluminum valve cover could be polished up to look like that, and most 2F valve covers are aluminum.....But, it takes some time - to get it to shine.
 
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