Overland LX570 Gets a Winch (1 Viewer)

[TeCKis300]

Yes, even I have succumbed to boyhood dreams. Never thought I'd go so far as to install a winch. Especially as I'm a stickler for weight. Getting deep into this hobby hanging around you all and somehow I've justified this in my mind.

Key build priorities
- weight
- maintain stock-ish looks and sensibilities
- keep crash bar, especially small overlap part of the bar
- support a Warn VR EVO 10 (will convert to synthetic line with just a soft loop)

Some or all of this wasn't quite possible in the aftermarket so I'm rolling my own. I won't quite call this a DIY thread as it gets deeper into fabrication, but perhaps gives enough ideas for the next intrepid? guy that might be looking for some of the same.

Many ways to skin this cat and I've had to feel my way through this. Starting with a TT HWM for the LC. As of this date, there isn't a turn key 09-12 LX Trail Tailer HWM so I'm modifying an LC HWM. After feeling out the degree of mods required, some of which is my own doing, may be easier to start with a generic winch mount.

Current rough mockup

 

[TeCKis300]

Here's the start. LC HWM fits internally though locates the winch 2" higher and 2" further forward than the LX bumper facade wants.

Busted out the angle grinder and plasma cutter and got to work. Working with heavy metal (TT HWM plate is 1/4" steel) is definitely putting my home tools to the test.

Chop goes the crash bar

Lots going on. Going to tie in the crash bar winglets structurally into the HWM plate. Also going to add a couple more recovery points, partially for aesthetics for bumper cut.

 

[highfructose]

Very cool.

Any effect on approach angle?

 

[TeCKis300]

Very cool.

Any effect on approach angle?

Hope not to. Trying to keep all the parts within the profile of the bumper.

 

[radman]

love the depth you're going to!
I've never seen one of those hidden winch mounts up close, but it looks like it uses the 8 crashbar studs. I recently posted this concern for the guy that's building his own bumper, but not sure if you saw it:
I stripped 2 of my horn bolts during dissent install, and had to grind/bang them out. During the process, I managed to bend the little 1/8" (maybe 3/16"?) plate that holds the bolts. I think those 8 bolts are only meant to hold the crash bar in place - during a front impact, the force pushes the crash bar into the actual frame. It looks like the HWM pulls forward on those bolts (away from the frame). In the pic below, you can see how the plate is bent back a bit (and then in place after I torqued everything down.
I know there are a lot of TT HWMs out there, so maybe this is a non-issue...

 

[kwelhand]

WOW... just wow

 

[CT3]

This is a great idea, and the lack of such an offering (with the crash bar being partially retained) is why I was never able to commit to a HWM option and decided to go for a full bumper

 

[TeCKis300]

love the depth you're going to!
I've never seen one of those hidden winch mounts up close, but it looks like it uses the 8 crashbar studs. I recently posted this concern for the guy that's building his own bumper, but not sure if you saw it:
I stripped 2 of my horn bolts during dissent install, and had to grind/bang them out. During the process, I managed to bend the little 1/8" (maybe 3/16"?) plate that holds the bolts. I think those 8 bolts are only meant to hold the crash bar in place - during a front impact, the force pushes the crash bar into the actual frame. It looks like the HWM pulls forward on those bolts (away from the frame). In the pic below, you can see how the plate is bent back a bit (and then in place after I torqued everything down.
I know there are a lot of TT HWMs out there, so maybe this is a non-issue...

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Thanks buddy. Good timing as I've been staring at it this detail. It's pretty amazing what the factory achieves with relatively thin metal, using 10 gauge (.1345") there. Compared to the aftermarket stuff, with the winch plate being .25". Factory uses lots of geometry and production capability that the aftermarket doesn't have.

I've been asking myself whether there is enough pull structure there to your point. The 8 studs are M10. Which suggests to me there there should be enough? I do see that Dissent uses a wrap around flange that engages the lower tow point bolts. I've got a thought to add an additional support bracket behind the stock flange, but will determine that later. The HWM setup has relatively little mass and leverage compared to aftermarket bumpers and I think more of the concern has been potential fatigue breaks at the factory bolt flange welds.

Back to fabrication, slowly getting there. Starting to tack in the pieces little by little with lots of check for fit and geometry. Here's what the HWM is looking like with the factory bumper horns tied in structurally into the HWM plate. The crash bar winglets itself will be further tied in to ensure enough structural load path.

 

[highfructose]

Thanks buddy. Good timing as I've been staring at it this detail. It's pretty amazing what the factory achieves with relatively thin metal, using 10 gauge (.1345") there. Compared to the aftermarket stuff, with the winch plate being .25". Factory uses lots of geometry and production capability that the aftermarket doesn't have.

I've been asking myself whether there is enough pull structure there to your point. The 8 studs are M10. Which suggests to me there there should be enough? I do see that Dissent uses a wrap around flange that engages the lower tow point bolts. I've got a thought to add an additional support bracket behind the stock flange, but will determine that later. The HWM setup has relatively little mass and leverage compared to aftermarket bumpers and I think more of the concern has been potential fatigue breaks at the factory bolt flange welds.

Back to fabrication, slowly getting there. Starting to tack in the pieces little by little with lots of check for fit and geometry. Here's what the HWM is looking like with the factory bumper horns tied in structurally into the HWM plate. The crash bar winglets itself will be further tied in to ensure enough structural load path.

View attachment 2888906

My Ironman bumper makes use of a very long bolt that engages with a metal plate that you slide into a gap in each of the frame rails…there should be a plastic plate you can pop off of the frame rails if you decide you want more pull structure.

They call it a threaded anchor plate.

 

[TeCKis300]

^Thanks for that! That's a great strategy for the right setup.

 

[mcgaskins]

Interested to see how this turns out - I always like the stealth look. Curious why you went with steel cable as opposed to synthetic, especially as it relates to weight.

 

[TeCKis300]

Interested to see how this turns out - I always like the stealth look. Curious why you went with steel cable as opposed to synthetic, especially as it relates to weight.

Good question and I'm not keeping the cable. Going to roll my own synthetic line config. Also wasn't sure about which hawse fairing I was going to use. Rather than pay for the Warn synthetic model, kept the change so I can choose options from the aftermarket.

Interested in your thoughts on this. There's a whole movement away from metal recovery hardware like traditional shackles, hooks, and links. Replacing with soft line loops and shackles. I'll likely just put a loop at the end of my synthetic line.

 

[mcgaskins]

Good question and I'm not keeping the cable. Going to roll my own synthetic line config. Also wasn't sure about which hawse fairing I was going to use. Rather than pay for the Warn synthetic model, kept the change so I can choose options from the aftermarket.

Interested in your thoughts on this. There's a whole movement away from metal recovery hardware like traditional shackles, hooks, and links. Replacing with soft line loops and shackles. I'll likely just put a loop at the end of my synthetic line.

I personally like synthetic line but with a Factor 55 or similar link to connect to, mostly to avoid any crushing of the line or crushing of the loop/basic thimble. I'm old school in that I generally like metal shackles (use my own because I know they're rated and in good shape) along with a Hitchlink whenever possible. I carry 4 high end soft shackles, but I always find myself pulling the metal ones when I need them partly because it's what I've been using for many years and know exactly how they should or shouldn't be used. I do think the future is all synthetic, and I'm practicing more with synthetic lately to get more comfortable with it

 

[outlaw4shrt]

What is the purpose of keeping the crash bar? After being cut into thirds, are you planning to brace the remaining ends off the HWM plate in order for them to function relatively as intended or are they just there to hold your rigid lights?

 

[hdj105]

You can thank ARB for that long bolt and bar in slot design I believe, the local OE Toyota bullbars early in the 200’s life didn’t use this but just bolted to the flange plate, and the result was fatigued plates and loose bull bars.

 

[TeCKis300]

What is the purpose of keeping the crash bar? After being cut into thirds, are you planning to brace the remaining ends off the HWM plate in order for them to function relatively as intended or are they just there to hold your rigid lights?

In the remote chance of a small overlap crash. I do a lot of road trips, on undivided 2-lane highways, and I don't want to compromise that safety factor too greatly. Without the crash bar wings, frontal crashes outside frame rails never get to engage the main crash structure. The impact path goes into the tire, then directly to the floorboard at ones feet.

I still need to add two bolts to better brace the crash bar wings. Likely a larger 1/2" carriage bolt through the HWM plate on the inboard ends. Possibly another on the small vertical backing plate added.

The crash bar wings do include a couple more support brackets for the lower bumper facade. And do hold the Rigid lights.

 

[TeCKis300]

Slow going. Everything is in position tacked up and doing a final assembly to check fitment before really burning everything in and painting. Lots of measuring thrice and cutting/drilling. I'm satisfied with how everything is coming together including the crash bar wings that is tied to the winch plate with a massive 3/4 bolt. The frame horns and crash bar wings all lend further structure to support the winch plate. Still lots of stock supports in place to tie in the lower bumper and covers.

Debating whether to further enclose the front end of the plate in between the fairlead and recovery points. I kind of like it open as it's still subtle enough but allows easy hand access to all the workings inside, including the clutch lever.

 

[grinchy]

Looks sharp!

Interested in the net weight gain. Have you been weighing it all?

 

[AnyMal]

Looks super nice teck, your sleeper theme is getting serious. I like it.

Did not know about those maxx jacks either until I peeped yours… that’s an intriguing product.

 

[CharlieS]

Slow going. Everything is in position tacked up and doing a final assembly to check fitment before really burning everything in and painting. Lots of measuring thrice and cutting/drilling. I'm satisfied with how everything is coming together including the crash bar wings that is tied to the winch plate with a massive 3/4 bolt. The frame horns and crash bar wings all lend further structure to support the winch plate. Still lots of stock supports in place to tie in the lower bumper and covers.

Debating whether to further enclose the front end of the plate in between the fairlead and recovery points. I kind of like it open as it's still subtle enough but allows easy hand access to all the workings inside, including the clutch lever.

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Looks great. I'm impressed with your creative approach and fabrication skills.

Something about those recovery points has me wondering how they'll hold up. It's all beefy steel, but when I imagine the forces involved, I see something getting bent or ripped off. Maybe just crazy talk on my part. Only time will tell.

I ended up trimming plastic grill grating to make an access port for the clutch lever. It wasn't great, but was better than always having to go in from above.