Steering wheel stuck, seriously. (1 Viewer)

[Maestro]

A couple years ago I had loaned out my old Snap On puller, same as your pics to a friend. While he had it I ran across another buddy that needed his wheel pulled to replace a turn signal switch assembly, so he rented one from a local parts store. Wheel wouldn't budge and no matter what we did to get it straight it would not cooperate. This guy is a machinist - so I asked him to grab one of his precision squares. That center forcing screw was bored at a 12* angle in relation to the flat machined area where the bolt heads rest - no wonder it wouldn't work. I took it back to the parts store, armed with my own precision square . The 3 units they had on the shelf were worse upon inspection than the loaner tool we had gotten from them. Left that pos there, went to another store in town - same deal , all were made in China except one OTC that looked nice but was off by a few degrees. Buddy bought that one, it worked great and done deal.


My Snap On was an Ebay score, probably north of 20yrs old or more - in the metal case to boot. On wheels equipped with the heavier center like a Cruiser that has pulling hoes , it has never failed once. I've even used an air impact w/socket on it as well as knocking the end of the forcing screw with the mid-barrel air chisel and a flat hammer head, no damage to the tool yet other than some cosmetic marks. Quality matters , folks - this older tool steel puller is perfectly straight and square and pulls evenly - I have yet to see a modern one that isn't at least 8-10 degrees out of square - that doesn't work. Check the one you have on hand - you can use shim washers to help on whatever side ends up low on the 2-bolt pull pattern, we've done that before with some cheaper pullers my son in law owns and it really seemed to make them more effective. Personally, I'm no fan of Snap On, the cost of their tools and quality doesn't match these days compared to years ago - but on a few of their specialty tools they are excellent. At my age, I'm not buying from any tool trucks these days and they only come when I call to honor a warranty broken tools - that's it . Most anything I buy now days is either top quality US made , German or Japanese higher end lines - if it's Chinese - it does not come here, ever. I can compare stuff all day if you like - even some old US names are not what they used to be, and that's a shame.


Yes, always use the nut on the shaft to protect it - if you hammer on the puller or put a lot of force on the tip of that shaft it will mushroom the thing badly. Some I have seen people destroy them to where the threads couldn't be repaired, even with a threading die so unless it's re-turned in a lathe it's junk - don't let it get to that point. I'd bet those cracks in the wheel are from the previous owner trying to Gorilla the thing off - shame as it's tough to find a nice used wheel that isn't damaged. Mine was in great shape but I didn't like the diameter - so I went with the thicker and padded 80 series wheel but kept the original in a bag and protected as much as possible so it could be used if it gets restored. Only had to move the turn signal pins some to make it work right - it can be returned to original easily.


Looks like you'd have to add about .020" shim to that bolt heads in the picture, pretty piss poor machining on that puller. A machine shop could re-cut the head portion square to the screw bore , just fyi...


Sarge

This cheap HF one I have actually would't even work out of the box. So if anyone thinks about buying one, don't, unless you want to fix it. The slots for the pulling hole bolts were not long enough to get the bolts into the holes parallel. At the narrowest setting, the bolts were still about 7mm wider than my wheel holes. Not only that, one slot got closer the main center bolt than the other, so it never would have centered on anything except holes that were at least 1cm wider than those in my wheel. I had to put it in my mill and machine out material on both sides to get it to fit, and extra on the other side to center the main bolt on the slots. I've got it to within about 0.1mm of center now. However, I had not checked to see if the threads were perpendicular. I just took a quick look, and it appears to be pretty close to straight, actually. However, the bolt slot faces are not perfectly flat and perpendicular to the main threads. The whole thing has a bit of an upward warp or cup to it, albeit pretty even on both sides. I supposed I could face the whole thing and get it really straight with minimal machining. At that point, I don’t see any reason it shouldn’t work. Only thing left it could do is flex, but it seems to be a pretty sturdy casting. But maybe I'll look at the part store offers more closely. Or, I could drive it to a shop if I can find one locally that I trust. I definitely don’t want some stranger banging on it, though. Either they can pull it nicely or not and I’ll take it home.

I just looked up SO pullers. Yeah, not really in my price range. SO isn't really my thing either, but that's just because I can't spend that much on my tools since they don't make me any money. If it was a guarantee that it would work, I might consider it, but I could pay a lot less to have someone use their SO puller on my truck. I did see that Gearwrench makes a puller at Tooltopia for under $50, not sure if it is a good product or not, though. Maybe I can find someone around here at the local club that I could borrow one from. So many options I have!

I was hoping to repair the little thread issue I created today, but didn't have time. I'm confident I can get it cleaned up and I will definitely put a nut on there before I go trying to pull it again. Thanks for letting me know before I made matters worse.

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Took 5 days to get my 71 steering wheel off. Kept gradually applying more pressure each day. Added penetrating oil and gave the backside a few smacks with a dead blow every now and then. The challenge is not busting up the vintage wheel.

Yeah, I tried hammering the main screw, and I also tried some tapping from the back in a nice pattern. I didn’t see any glimmer of hope, but you showed more patience than I have. Maybe I just need to be patient. My carb won’t be back for about a week, so I guess I have time.

Wow, what an ordeal. My wheel on my 69 FJ40 will have to come off at some point to fix the cracks and general refurbishment (or spend $1,000 to buy an original). I was worried that all the cracks would cause my steering wheel to break but it looks like (based on your rough housing of your wheel) that they are pretty solid even with the cracks; they must all have cracks at some point I guess?

Mine is cracked all over the place, even on the hand parts of the wheel there are splits almost big enough to stick the tip of your finger into. Everything underneath that cracked plastic is still strong. One of these days I would like to repair it a bit, but with my 40, that’s way low in priorities. I’ve had it a couple years and just saw the turn signals flash (rear only, no fronts yet) for the first time since I got it. Previous owner just used hand signals, so that’s what I’ve done until now! That’s why I’m taking the dang wheel off, to clean up the lever for the flashers and hopefully rebuild the horn, which right now you have to reach through the wheel and hit a button that’s on the steering column.

Fancy snap on stuff


I have used my make shift puller several times ... one day I’ll even use it as it’s intended ... but for now it’s in the tool box for the next time


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I like how short and stout that looks. Maybe I ought to just try and rig something up on my own with short bolts like that to keep the unit from twisting under pressure. I probably have some steel laying around I can machine into a usable puller, this is another option I will leave for myself if all else fails. As of now, I’be been adding Kroil for 2 days, maybe that will help enough that it comes off tomorrow with the HF puller. Fingers crossed.

This (dusty) hub used to be a stock ‘69 wheel. When I was doing my Geology undergrad at GVSU I used the basement machine shop to turn down the hub after I cut the spikes off of it. I found a piece of steel tube that seemed the right diameter and welded it to the hub and then made a face flange to weld to it with the grant wheel pattern.


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Did you change the angle of your steering shaft? It looks odd, but maybe it’s just photo distortion. I really want to keep everything as original as possible for now, but that looks really nice. You did a great job! Besides, I can’t get a new one on until I get this one off anyway!

I called Jim tonight (the forum member from Tulsa who does steering wheel renovation). I am going to ship my steering wheel to him next week to get it back in shape!! My shop will take the wheel off---I hope they have an easier time than you did!

.


Awesome, I’ll have to look him up to keep it in mind for the future. Never even crossed my mind to send it off for restoration. Good idea!

 

[Weber Sarge]

OTC makes one for far less than half of the Snap-On, and it is a good unit . I've checked 2 now - dead square and the holding bolts are parallel to the main screw as they should be. That is what counts - it keeps all the forces inline with the shaft and most pullers today do not.

Be really careful using bolts to pull anything against the shaft end like Johnny, those holes can strip while you're trying to tighten the bolts down and then you get to either try to re-tap them or cut the wheel off. Those two holes are good for holding a load but not applying the load if that makes sense.

I have very few of SO's tools - only a few specialty things and they did cost me a fortune. But, they have never let me down and have far well paid for themselves over the years. It's about a long-term game, short term their cost doesn't work but when you wrench for a living replacing tools gets expensive and takes too much time. Glad I'm out of it now - just don't need the aggravation .


Sarge

 

[69LC]

@Maestro, when I originally put my truck together I had no sense of Land Cruiser preservation, but instead was using it as a learning platform to play with.

I’ll keep going with it that way and probably restore my daughters 72 to pay my dues.

And I didn’t change the angle. It was dark in the barn...

 

[middlecalf]

Does the OTC set have the proper sized bolts for this application? Which one and what are the bolt sizes needed?

Like this one?
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Master-B...TF8&qid=1518789977&sr=1-1&keywords=OTC+puller

 

[thebigredrocker]

Yeah, it’ll come off. My puller is cheesy so I decided to be patient.

Good to hear you are bringing your 40 back to life. I’m going to attach a thread where Coolerman chimes in, post #13 is informative: Turn signal trouble shoot

 

[Maestro]

Sarge,
I definitely wouldn't pull it by threading the bolts. I was just thinking that since I don't need a universal tool that will pull harmonic balancer and other things, I could just make a very small, simple puller. Something out of thick, strong steel, made from scratch so I know everything is straight. No need to even make slots for the bolts, I can just drill the holes right where the need to be so the bolts are guaranteed to be all lined up right. I don't have a tap big enough to make threads for the center bolt on the puller, but maybe I could mill a hex shaped recess in the body of the puller and drop a nut into it. Don't have a welder, so my options are limited.

I will try and yank this thing again a little later today. Hopefully the kroil did it's job and I don't have to think about any more options. I will update as soon as I attempt the pull.

Does the OTC set have the proper sized bolts for this application? Which one and what are the bolt sizes needed?

Like this one?
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Master-B...TF8&qid=1518789977&sr=1-1&keywords=OTC+puller

Yes, it lists three lengths of M8x1.25, that's the one you need. The 45mm will be too short, but the longer ones will work fine.

Yeah, it’ll come off. My puller is cheesy so I decided to be patient.

Good to hear you are bringing your 40 back to life. I’m going to attach a thread where Coolerman chimes in, post #13 is informative: Turn signal trouble shoot

Me too! Wow, thanks for the info, I didn't know that about the flashers. Weird that mine works flashing only one bulb. But my 40 is far from original. It's got a 350 swap, wiring harness is a complete unknown. There are loose wires everywhere, presumably from the Toyota gear when the swap was done. I am planning to rewire everything because the PO has splices that go to different colored wires, which makes it near impossible to figure out where anything goes. It has 8 auxiliary lights, aftermarket radio and speakers with many of all those wires bundled together and electrical taped to the roll bars. None of the wiring is accessible without tearing all the tape apart. Behind the dash is a disaster of wires, the main harness is all taped up, but everything else looks like a bird's nest made of wires. Needless to say, I can't expect things to function like a Toyota unless I really look at each component carefully. Not even sure if I can buy a wiring harness because of the Chevy swap, so I'm assuming I might have to make the whole harness myself. But I haven't researched that yet, it's an upcoming project.

 

[Maestro]

The saga continues...

I searched online and found a Craftsman puller that is exactly what I was going to make. It was $11, so that was a no brainer. Brought it home and checked it's fit on my wheel. First thing I noticed is that this one also has slots too far out for the screws to go straight in, it's about 6mm too wide. So, onto the milling machine this one will go too.

Next up I started to work on fixing the first thread that got a little mangled. On another thread, I found a post where Coolerman said the nut is M12x1.25. So, I ordered up a few of those a couple days ago and had them on hand to make a little chaser out of. First thing I tried to do was get a thread file onto the first threads. I noticed right away that my file wasn't lining up. Huh? I checked it and my shaft is M12x1.5. Not to mention, I couldn't get the file close enough to the shaft to make contact with enough threads to use it. So, back to the drawing board on that one. Ran out to parts store tonight and bought a M12x1.5 wheel nut to make my chaser out of, haven't started on that yet. Still, I'm pretty confident I can get the thread cleaned up. Worst case scenario, I can try and get a little file in there, but all the way around the steering shaft while it's in the truck is kinda hard. While I know I did a little damage, I don't think I did much because of the shape of the shaft end, it's already ground sort of round from where the PO probably mushroomed it over way worse. My puller had a concave fixture, so not a lot of contact was made. However, I did have trouble getting the nut off originally, and now that I think back, I think I might not have put the nut back on because I already couldn't thread it. It felt like I was cross threading it just removing it. Checking the old nut on a clean M12, it is super, super sloppy and loose. So this thing started out in bad shape and I just made it worse, I guess.

Finally, I took a closer look at my puller bolt holes. I did have a lot of trouble getting one of the bolts in initially, the hole was badly damaged and the bottom half, where I couldn't even thread down to was almost down to no threads, just a hole. So I was only able to thread in part way with the bolts. In daylight, looking more closely, I threaded the bolts in and noticed that one isn't straight. So this project was doomed from the beginning. I was never going to get it off if the puller bolts weren't straight. I just couldn't see it from the angles I was at working on it. Now it's clear. So I am wondering if I should helicoil it, or maybe just try and tap it. I don't think there's enough metal to tap, but it's hard to tell and I don't even have that tap size. Last option, maybe I just pull the whole steering now and work on this thing in the comfort of the shop.

New puller won't work. Nuts I ordered are wrong size. Shaft is still messed up. Now puller bolt holes are no good. Lousy day for me, guys. Calling it a night and I'll get back to this tomorrow and will update if there is any good news.

 

[Weber Sarge]

At this point - pulling the whole column out is a good idea. I'd imagine you're going to find other things that aren't good either, so much easier on the bench or at least get a look at it away from the truck.

It's really common for most puller kits to only come with a size or two of common bolts - the rest is up to you. I've added to what is in my kit over the years with some strange sizes - mostly metric fine thread and even some off the wall SAE specialty stuff. 7MM for bikes, ect...

I believe the two tapped holes for removing the wheel are 8x.125 .

Sarge

 

[3_puppies]

At this point - pulling the whole column out is a good idea. I'd imagine you're going to find other things that aren't good either, so much easier on the bench or at least get a look at it away from the truck. Sarge

problem with the above is the rig is a 66 and the steering box and column are 1 piece. I don't think the box will come out thru the firewall.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Ah, didn't realize his rig was that old - explains why the steering shaft thread size is 12x1.5 thread....


Sarge

 

[Splangy]

problem with the above is the rig is a 66 and the steering box and column are 1 piece. I don't think the box will come out thru the firewall.

Yup. I’ve had to cut a steering shaft for the same reason as the OP. Couldn’t get the wheel off no matter what.

 

[bikersmurf]

What a headache.

The other suggestion I'll add to the heat option is ice. 25 years ago, an old appliance repair guy from up north taught me this trick:
1) Heat the shaft with a torch as quickly as feasible.
2) Cool the shaft with ice cubes till it is cold.
3) Repeat.
4) After a few rounds heat and apply penetrating oil and take a break for a while.
5) Begin at step 1 again.

I don't know it'll help, but it has helped me with many other stuck parts in the past.

Cruiser has never given me grief on the steering wheel... pitman arm is a whole different story. Couldn't get it off... even with a cutting torch.

 

[Maestro]

Yeah, the puller threads are definitely M8x1.25. I could verify that easily on the better hole in my wheel. However, if I didn't have that decent one to see, I would not have felt confident threading the bolt into the other hole. That one just isn't clean enough to distinguish much.

Yes, this is a '66. I was planning on cleaning up the steering box soon anyway. I think I mentioned earlier that it is just an unidentifiable blob of grease right now. Well, the only part that is a blob of grease, is where the column goes into the box. I had just assumed there was something hiding there that would allow me to pull the shaft out through the cab. I hadn't gotten to looking at the schematic on that job yet. I looked at the diagram and went to verify I didn't have an updated version. Nope, it's the original one that must come out together.

So now I'm about to get really serious on getting this wheel off. Kroil has been creeping in for days. I wouldn't rule out applying heat if it doesn't pull easily on my next attempt. First, I think I will just go buy a tap for that puller hole. If I lose too much steel, worst case scenario I just helicoil it, right? Does that sound like a decent plan?

 

[peesalot]

cutting wheel and chop that old wheel up till its off.

 

[Maestro]

Honestly, I would on any other vehicle, but this truck has a lot of sentimental value. The wheel is something special to me and chopping it up while I have options isn't my first choice. If all other options are exhausted, I'll of course choose to chop something up if it's the only way to keep it driving. I'm not there yet, I'd rather rethread the shaft down to a pencil and tap the puller holes to a half inch before I gave up on it.

 

[MOTOV8R]

A trick I picked up in a boat yard watching a guy pulling aluminum outboard props, frozen on from the salt water. He put the puller on, got it tight and while putting tension on the puller screw he used an air chisel with the point tool and put to the center of the puller screw head. I've used this technique on stubborn pulling jobs and it works much better than hitting the puller screw with a hammer. Might be worth a shot.

I would give this a shot.

 

[1969FJ]

Yeah, the puller threads are definitely M8x1.25. I could verify that easily on the better hole in my wheel. However, if I didn't have that decent one to see, I would not have felt confident threading the bolt into the other hole. That one just isn't clean enough to distinguish much.

Yes, this is a '66. I was planning on cleaning up the steering box soon anyway. I think I mentioned earlier that it is just an unidentifiable blob of grease right now. Well, the only part that is a blob of grease, is where the column goes into the box. I had just assumed there was something hiding there that would allow me to pull the shaft out through the cab. I hadn't gotten to looking at the schematic on that job yet. I looked at the diagram and went to verify I didn't have an updated version. Nope, it's the original one that must come out together.

So now I'm about to get really serious on getting this wheel off. Kroil has been creeping in for days. I wouldn't rule out applying heat if it doesn't pull easily on my next attempt. First, I think I will just go buy a tap for that puller hole. If I lose too much steel, worst case scenario I just helicoil it, right? Does that sound like a decent plan?

KEEP THE FAITH... It will happen.....

 

[thebigredrocker]

You’ll git’er, I didn’t mention the other day I did use a wee bit of heat. It was challenging to heat the shaft without melting plastic. I used a butane creme brulee’ torch. It throws a small adjustable flame. No idea if it contributed to my success. If you want to go redneck you could cut up a beer can to “heat shield” the upper lip of the plastic.

 

[Maestro]

1969FJ, thanks for the moral support!

I was thinking of using that exact torch. I was even gonna mention my little creme brulee torch in my last post, but then I realized I haven't found it since we moved. There was no way I'd take a full size bernzomatic in my truck, so it seemed like a good idea to me too! I can just go buy another one tomorrow just in case, since it worked well for you. Heat shield, great idea.... Can I use whiskey bottles? That's all I got around here.

 

[Maestro]

Oh, as for the air chisel, I don't have one, but my neighbor might. Tomorrow would be ideal to borrow it since he won't be needing it for work. Wouldn't a half inch impact wrench on the center bolt be equally effective in that scenario? I've got that here and I can try that. Hell, maybe I'll need both. Hoping that fixing the threads and trying it again after the kroil has been working will be enough to make it come off without anything crazy, but I'll try anything at this point.