Steering wheel stuck, seriously. (1 Viewer)

[Maestro]

Trying to pull the wheel on my '66 FJ40. It's stuck. I've read all the internet recommendations ranging from, "just yank it off, it will come if you put some muscle into it", all the way to 3lb hammer on the puller. I didn't try a 3lb hammer, but I whacked it really hard with a hammer, many times. I got the puller that is the harmonic balancer style puller from harbor freight. I already bent all the M8 pulling bolts it came with. Went to buy a better puller from the parts store, but walked out with more M8 bolts because the pullers at both parts stores near me didn't look any better than the Harbor Freight one I already bought.

So now I've got class 10.9 pulling bolts in there. First I hit it with PB Blaster, no luck. Next, I tried Kroil, let it sit for a few hours under tension of the puller, whacked it with a hammer again, still no luck. Now I'm only left wondering if I've missed some screws or something. I took the wheel cap off, the nut that holds the wheel, big washer underneath that, the horn contact and plate from underneath the contact. I can see the splines, there is nothing left holding it on I can see. Am I missing something? If I've got it all off, what else can I do if it's truly stuck? I am pretty sure if I crank it any harder I'm going to break one of these M8 pulling bolts.

Only thing I didn't try is one technique I've used in the past on stubborn bolts, torch and paraffin. But this isn't a nut and bolt, and I already tried Kroil, which should do a similar job, except adding heat. I just put more Kroil on it before I call it a night. Hoping I'll wake up and it will have popped itself off, but I am not gonna hold my breath. Any ideas?

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

Pictures of your setup will be helpful

 

[Maestro]

Right after I posted, I thought I ought to add a photo. Just came back to add this. It's pitch black out there, but this came out pretty well.

 

[NKC]

I've got a '64, so stuck the bolts pulled some of the threads out so I never got it off, tried all your steps, and heat but the steering wheel will melt, hope to see how you fare, Good Luck!

 

[jm599]

I used thundergun air impact wrench on the setup in the pic and got mine. I was sure it was gonna destroy it but it didn’t.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Biggest problem with pulling a steering wheel is getting the puller dead square and inline to the steering shaft - if it isn't - it won't work.

Measure from the top surface of the puller where your bolt heads sit to the metal insert in the wheel - it has to be dead equal to keep that forcing screw straight inline with the shaft. Otherwise, you're just making it tougher. You can apply some heat directly to the end of the shaft with the puller off, but keep wet rags around the metal insert in the plastic on the wheel or it will melt. After some heating, apply the paraffin and allow it to cool on it's own but keep that metal insert cool with very wet rags or you'll ruin the wheel. As it cools it will draw the paraffin into the joint and should break free, but using heat is a last resort. If the puller doesn't have a forcing screw bearing that also can cause a problem - I generally don't use a bearing type unless I have to and just use chassis grease on the tip of the screw. The bearing types can put a lot more force against the shaft with less resistance, plus they don't risk tearing up the shaft so much or even splitting it if you force them hard enough. Moly type grease is the best for a very high shear load like this , just fyi...

Some are just stupid stubborn, mine was seriously overtorqued on my '77 and indexed incorrectly by a previous owner - took heat on/off , a lot of wax and several days with a very high quality beam puller. Some will just not come off without destroying the wheel - have a plan for a replacement if things go south.

Sarge

 

[Steamer]

A trick I picked up in a boat yard watching a guy pulling aluminum outboard props, frozen on from the salt water. He put the puller on, got it tight and while putting tension on the puller screw he used an air chisel with the point tool and put to the center of the puller screw head. I've used this technique on stubborn pulling jobs and it works much better than hitting the puller screw with a hammer. Might be worth a shot.

 

[69LC]

Mine was frozen too. I used a real sledge against a block and the nut still loosely on the threads to knock it loose. Don’t be ”skerred”...

 

[Poser]

Put the nut on that steering shaft to protect the threads when you are pushing against them with those pullers...

 

[B y r o n]

Also, relax the puller and let the Kroil work over night or even a few days. With the puller under tension the parts are pulled together and you want them relaxed so the Kroil can soak through any gaps.

 

[Maestro]

Thanks to all for the replies. Sure is nice to not feel totally alone on this!

First, Sarge says this thing has to be really straight. Well there's my problem right there! Honestly, I didn't think it was all that critical. The previous owner obviously mangled this job a few times, as you can see by the grind marks on the steering shaft. Because of the uneven surface, its hard to tell if this thing is truly straight. But once I get it cranking real hard, the bolts bend anyway. I'm guessing it really is stuck on pretty good, and it's supposed to pop off before the bolts start bending. I grabbed shorter bolts to try and mitigate the bending, but it didn't help.

Poser, I didn't leave the nut on because the threads were already messed up on it and I couldn't really get the nut back very straight on the first few turns anyway. I was worried taking it off because it felt cross threaded. I was thinking about making a thread chaser out of a new nut after I got this thing off. Now that I look the shaft closely after the pulling, I may have already done more damage to the first thread than what was there to begin with. So, I'll try and clean up this thread today and proceed to try again with a new nut on the end. I think I stand a better chance at getting the puller to sit straight with a nut on there anyway.

Before I go banging on this thing again, can hitting the shaft end hard do any damage to the steering box or gears on the other end?

I don't really HAVE to pull the wheel right now, but my carb is off getting repaired anyway, and I am after fixing turn signals while I can't drive. I got the switch cleaned up and functioning again, so I really want to get the lever off and clean it up too. Hand signals are getting old, especially when you need a lane change to the right. Also, I'd like to see if I can get my horn button off the steering column and back on the wheel while I'm at it. In the near future, I also need to eventually get to the steering box, because right now it just looks like a giant blob of grease. So, I was hoping to pull the wheel now, get those little jobs done, throw some anti-seize on there and put it back together.

As for a backup plan... As you can see this wheel is already pretty busted up. No, i didn't just do that, it was already like that when I got it. I'm okay with that for now. But if I ever put another wheel on, I think I'd like it to be an original.

 

[Maestro]

Also, relax the puller and let the Kroil work over night or even a few days. With the puller under tension the parts are pulled together and you want them relaxed so the Kroil can soak through any gaps.

You know, I was wondering if that was a good idea or not. I think I was so desperate that I was just wishing I would find the wheel on the driver's seat this morning. Now that I've pulled off the puller, I'll Kroil it again. Thanks.

 

[Weber Sarge]

A couple years ago I had loaned out my old Snap On puller, same as your pics to a friend. While he had it I ran across another buddy that needed his wheel pulled to replace a turn signal switch assembly, so he rented one from a local parts store. Wheel wouldn't budge and no matter what we did to get it straight it would not cooperate. This guy is a machinist - so I asked him to grab one of his precision squares. That center forcing screw was bored at a 12* angle in relation to the flat machined area where the bolt heads rest - no wonder it wouldn't work. I took it back to the parts store, armed with my own precision square . The 3 units they had on the shelf were worse upon inspection than the loaner tool we had gotten from them. Left that pos there, went to another store in town - same deal , all were made in China except one OTC that looked nice but was off by a few degrees. Buddy bought that one, it worked great and done deal.

My Snap On was an Ebay score, probably north of 20yrs old or more - in the metal case to boot. On wheels equipped with the heavier center like a Cruiser that has pulling hoes , it has never failed once. I've even used an air impact w/socket on it as well as knocking the end of the forcing screw with the mid-barrel air chisel and a flat hammer head, no damage to the tool yet other than some cosmetic marks. Quality matters , folks - this older tool steel puller is perfectly straight and square and pulls evenly - I have yet to see a modern one that isn't at least 8-10 degrees out of square - that doesn't work. Check the one you have on hand - you can use shim washers to help on whatever side ends up low on the 2-bolt pull pattern, we've done that before with some cheaper pullers my son in law owns and it really seemed to make them more effective. Personally, I'm no fan of Snap On, the cost of their tools and quality doesn't match these days compared to years ago - but on a few of their specialty tools they are excellent. At my age, I'm not buying from any tool trucks these days and they only come when I call to honor a warranty broken tools - that's it . Most anything I buy now days is either top quality US made , German or Japanese higher end lines - if it's Chinese - it does not come here, ever. I can compare stuff all day if you like - even some old US names are not what they used to be, and that's a shame.

Yes, always use the nut on the shaft to protect it - if you hammer on the puller or put a lot of force on the tip of that shaft it will mushroom the thing badly. Some I have seen people destroy them to where the threads couldn't be repaired, even with a threading die so unless it's re-turned in a lathe it's junk - don't let it get to that point. I'd bet those cracks in the wheel are from the previous owner trying to Gorilla the thing off - shame as it's tough to find a nice used wheel that isn't damaged. Mine was in great shape but I didn't like the diameter - so I went with the thicker and padded 80 series wheel but kept the original in a bag and protected as much as possible so it could be used if it gets restored. Only had to move the turn signal pins some to make it work right - it can be returned to original easily.

Looks like you'd have to add about .020" shim to that bolt heads in the picture, pretty piss poor machining on that puller. A machine shop could re-cut the head portion square to the screw bore , just fyi...

Sarge

 

[thebigredrocker]

Took 5 days to get my 71 steering wheel off. Kept gradually applying more pressure each day. Added penetrating oil and gave the backside a few smacks with a dead blow every now and then. The challenge is not busting up the vintage wheel.

 

[Jetlander]

View attachment 1633955

Took 5 days to get my 71 steering wheel off. Kept gradually applying more pressure each day. Added penetrating oil and gave the backside a few smacks with a dead blow every now and then. The challenge is not busting up the vintage wheel.

That’s one way to do it!

 

[69LC]

My original 69 wheel was dry cracked just like the OP’s wheel. After removal I turned it into a better looking adapter hub for my Grant wheel.

 

[Martyt]

Wow, what an ordeal. My wheel on my 69 FJ40 will have to come off at some point to fix the cracks and general refurbishment (or spend $1,000 to buy an original). I was worried that all the cracks would cause my steering wheel to break but it looks like (based on your rough housing of your wheel) that they are pretty solid even with the cracks; they must all have cracks at some point I guess?

 

[JohnnyC]

Fancy snap on stuff

I have used my make shift puller several times ... one day I’ll even use it as it’s intended ... but for now it’s in the tool box for the next time

 

[69LC]

This (dusty) hub used to be a stock ‘69 wheel. When I was doing my Geology undergrad at GVSU I used the basement machine shop to turn down the hub after I cut the spikes off of it. I found a piece of steel tube that seemed the right diameter and welded it to the hub and then made a face flange to weld to it with the grant wheel pattern.

 

[Martyt]

I called Jim tonight (the forum member from Tulsa who does steering wheel renovation). I am going to ship my steering wheel to him next week to get it back in shape!! My shop will take the wheel off---I hope they have an easier time than you did!