Starter replacement & P0325 blues. Any other "while you are in there maintenance?" (2 Viewers)

[jbyrd78]

you can buy the knock sensor connectors from Toyota. I replaced both of mine and the starter plastic connector when I did my starter . here are the part numbers

starter contact plug 90980-11400, also 90980-09585
knock sensor plug 1 90980-11166
knock sensor plug 2 90980-11166

Tried these numbers on Toyotapartsdeal.com and nothing popped up. NAPA has pigtail knock & starter connectors so it's all good.

The only times I've seen knock sensor codes, is rodent damaging wire.

Number one procedure before removing anything, expect engine cover. Clean top of engine. Paying special attention to both sides where intake manifold meets the heads. You do not want even one dust practical dropping into intake ports of heads. Also, before installing intake manifold. Get on top of engine with flashlight and vacuum out any dust/sand from each intake port. These two step alone, add 1 to 2 hours to the job. Shop's are trying to beat the clock, so they don't do this. But pros, at least blow off with shop air.

Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts

Ok I replaced my housing with a new one. Next problem. It appears the manifold gaskets that are in the rig are aftermarket. At least they don’t look like what I ordered. How do I determine the correct orientation and am I supposed to just snip of the middle “connecting” portion? I might get it...

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Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP

Mickey & Minnie nesting in the engine valley, snacked on the wire(s). With a P0325 (knock sensor #1 bank #1) and a visual inspection. I was able to confirm at least one wire is cut. I was thinking I'd just splice the wire, possible adding a small section if need be. The I realized this is a...

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Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP

They are just different sizes, not sure if your sizes are correct as we have the metric system in the uk so AWG is alien to myself.

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These butt solider splicers are the way to go, a one and done.


Denso starter is fine, but Toyota Denso is remanufactured to higher standard with specific list of parts. In either, I reset contacts.

I always have the starter single wire housing block (OEM) on hand. The lock almost always breaks. All wire house blocks have a number on them, which is last 5 of P/N. To date, every engine wire block housing I've needed. Toyota has had available, most in stock locally. Once I needed 7 for a signal starter job, all were in stock.

Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP

I was thinking they made these knock sensor wire & connector kits because Mickey & Minnie's favorite home. But now I see it must be because these often get brittle and break when replacing sensor.

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The water cross-over pipe, can be left in place. But if removed, replace the small O-ring. I use Dove dish soapy water, to lube O-ring for install.

If working on a VVT engine. This is the time to mod the S.A.I. filter.

S.A.I. Modification in VVT engines to prevent its failure! Alert Alert

We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I.S. of the VVT engine, 1s taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the 2006 & 2007 100 series Land Cruiser & Lexus...

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Head cover gaskets, I've re-torqued the cover bolts to 53IN-lbf on over 100 4.7L engines. Stopping leaks/weeps 100% of the time. The only head cover or spark plug tube seals I've replaced. Is where I came in behind one's replaced by someone else. Eventually, they'll need replacing I suppose, but I've yet to see it!

Nice time to replace fuel inject seal, is while intake manifold off. No real need to split intake manifold on the 98-05, its gaskets is fine if undisturbed. If you've the time, sending out fuel inject to be cleaned, rebuilt and tested, is a nice touch.

When to Clean or Replace fuel injectors

Please post your experiences and thoughts on the subject. I’ve been considering cleaning or even replacing all 8 fuel injectors, is this wasting time and money. I understand keeping fuel injector clean by adding a can of additive to the gas tank, now & then, is a good practice. This keeps them...

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Look for any sign of seepage at front and rear water bypass joints. Any sign, replace the gasket. I've found those gasket in great condition, if no sign of coolant seepage. So I only replace (both banks) I do see signs of seepage.
View attachment 3422555
VVT
View attachment 3422556

Replace any and all seals disturbed.

Use a torque wrench!

Thanks for sharing this book of wealth.

If wire or wire housing block cut/bad, I'd not replace the sensor. I do have two used in stock, if you feel the need to replace.. PM/DM me.

Why do you advise not replacing the knock sensor if it's just a wire issue?

 

[jbyrd78]

Got everything ready to go except for the knock sensor & starter connector pigtails, which will be here this afternoon. I guess in the meantime, I can start the cleaning process, and get the O-rings & grommets on the fuel injectors swapped out.

 

[jbyrd78]

Just got done cleaning the mating surface on the intake manifold. I scraped off what gunk I could with a razor blade. Then I sanded with 400 grit sandpaper, followed by 800 grit sandpaper.

The old O-rings & grommets on the fuel injectors came off with ease. However to get the new ones on, I sprayed a dab of silicone lube on my pinky finger and applied it to one side of the fuel injectors. 1 spray to the pinky will take care of all 4 fuel injectors on each side.

I did noticed on one of my fuel injectors, one of the lower grommets had a lip missing. This must have happened when I was removing the rail. Looks like I will be ordering those today as well. I'm hoping that this won't hinder me putting everything back together until I can get those replaced at a later day.

Time to go pickup the remaining parts, and get hot in the engine bay, so I can have this thing hopefully up and running this evening.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for sharing this book of wealth.

Why do you advise not replacing the knock sensor if it's just a wire issue?

Never seen a bad one.

BTW: FSM recommends fuel injector O-rings, be lube with gasoline for install.

You'll not likely need a pigtail for start. Just the wire housing block. Unless wire cut.

Tip: To remove lead (with it's pigtail) from wire housing block. I use a small curved needle nose pliers and break away plastic wire housing. Being very careful, so's not to damage lead.

 

[SteveH]

I removed the manifold today. Small, ancient rodent nest in bottom. No wiring damage and all clips came off easily. I replaced the 2014-replaced 'NAPA New' starter (had 90K miles on it) with a Toyota dealer reman, and bought 2 knock sensors ($156/ea). Will reassemble tomorrow and see if the MIL stays off afterward.

Yes, I plugged the intake holes right after I took the photo.

 

[oakback]

How's this parts list look? I may leave off the knock sensors since I don't have failure codes, but replace the connectors.

 

[Rednexus]

I would skip the sensors and spend the money on refurbished fuel injectors (or getting yours refurbished) instead.

 

[jbyrd78]

Made some progress yesterday, but also had a setback. Got everything all put back together. Fired her up, and the fuel injector on the back passenger side, with the missing part of the lower injector insulator started spraying fuel out.

So it looks like I will be ordering those from my local dealership and taking the intake manifold back out to replace all of those on the fuel injectors as well.

This may sound stupid, but something I noticed yesterday, and thought I would ask about. How do you know when the top & lower part of the fuel injectors are seated properly, just so I can avoid this headache the 2nd time around.

 

[Rednexus]

I've used aftermarket Fel-Pro seals from O Reilly's and they worked fine. I'd suggest replacing all of the seals on all 8 injectors. Or, if you can have the rig down another week or so, ship them off to somewhere like InjectorRX for a refresh and flow match with new seals.

To your actual question, the fuel rail should easily sit on the injectors with almost no pressure. You should not have to force anything. I like lubing the top and bottom seals with PB Blaster to help seat everything nicely.

 

[SteveH]

Update: Got it all buttoned up and test driven. No check engine light so far.

Replaced both knock sensors, the starter, and intake gaskets. ~$500 total with all OEM dealer parts at a 20% discount.

Found a wiring harness clip lying on one of the valve stems. I cannot stress too much how careful you have to be to avoid getting dirt, bolts, tools, etc. down the intake. The FSM was useful in determine knock sensor torque (33 lb-ft) and verifying the washer under the banjo fuel connector.

 

[FamilyCamper]

Did this job a few months back and rewired both knock sensors and replaced one. CEL came on the next day for bank 1. I tested each of the sensors and they tested well so something must be going on with the wiring. So sad....now I have to go back in and do it again.

 

[SteveH]

Update: I have driven the truck since my Sept. 10 posting above, and mercilessly flogged it to western Colorado (Engineer Pass, Cinnamon Pass, Silverton, full throttle up Red Mountain Pass, etc.) and the check engine light has not returned. I'm declaring knock sensor victory after replacing the MIL-indicated Knock Sensor #1.

 

[jbyrd78]

I apologize for not dropping by and giving a follow up sooner. I had a couple plot twists happen this weekend. My 200 got wrecked this past Sunday. I wasn't at fault, but most importantly, no one involved was hurt. So that situation has become a priority as of now
On a lighter note. Lexi is all back together and running smoothly. I ended having to buy all new seals. When I took the fuel injectors out to inspect them, a few of the O-rings broke when I removed them, and some of the grommets, and insulators had literally expanded, and they fell off the fuel injectors when I picked them up.
With the new seals, this time around, I dipped everything in gasoline like what was mentioned, and I lett everything sit a few hours before I reinstalled the manifold, just to make sure everything was good.

Just a word to the wise, before you install everything, triple check your intake ports and make sure they are clear. I lost a damper for the passenger side fuel rail Saturday. I couldn't find it and ordered another one to replace that. Something inside me told me to double check everything before I put the intake manifold back on. I'm glad I did, because wedge down in an intake port I found that plastic damper I'm holding in the picture.

 

[Mike Beauford]

Appreciated the details in this thread. Have changed both knock sensors with new oem parts and starter this past summer on my 2005 cruiser with 252k miles. During a recent interstate road trip from Dallas down to Boca Chica to watch the 11/18/23 Starship launch. My old nemesis PO 330 knock sensor bank 2 CEL came back on after less than 3k miles and 5 months. My question is does having CEL lights on put the engine in LIMP (degraded) mode? I am getting worse gas mileage than my previous lousy mileage (8mpg at 80 mph and best 12 mpg at 63 mph). I could go back in and swap the sensor locations ( bank 1 to bank 2; bank 2 to bank 1) to confirm if I am just having a sensor issue. Or I could assume the knock sensor is actually hearing a engine knock that is out of range. (Shudder). Note I did not have any rodent chewing issues so still am not sure what my root cause is. All comments and suggestions greatfully appreciated.