Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP

[2001LC]

Mickey & Minnie nesting in the engine valley, snacked on the wire(s). With a P0325 (knock sensor #1 bank #1) and a visual inspection. I was able to confirm at least one wire is cut.

I was thinking I'd just splice the wire, possible adding a small section if need be. The I realized this is a very high heat area. How would I go about fixing this?

Edit 3-22-16 with final completion see post 50 & 51: Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP

 

[arcteryx]

Oh, I have heard many a story about them, they like to wreak havoc. Yes, splice and use some high-test heat wrap around the section.

 

[Sandroad]

A favorite place for our little "friends". I'd use 105C automotive wire and heat-shrink waterproof crimp connectors for the splicing. Wrapping per previous post is a good idea too. Bummer you probably have to pull the manifold.......

 

[2001LC]

Thanks guys. I get to do the starter, so not all bad. So is this stuff available at the hardware or do I need specialty stuff?

 

[DFXR]

The hardware store might not have automotive wire (I say this from recent experience), so I'd try a NAPA or Carquest for the wire and heat-shrink connectors. A good auto parts store will have heat wrap as well. Ideally you get it all in one trip, not 3. You have a heat gun for the heat shrink?

 

[2001LC]

I do have a 1000 watt heat gun. If that's not hot enough, can I use a plumber torch?


Anyone know what gauge wire the harness is?

 

[DFXR]

The heat gun will be much better in a tight space like that. I have definitely used a plumber's torch for heat shrink but it's not the best or safest option by any means. I don't know what gauge the harness is, sorry.

 

[Julian Stead]

Have you exposed the damaged wire? You can buy a solder heat-shrink connector, I would prefer a solder type to a crimp type. If it is a clean cut then this all you need.

 

[2001LC]

That was my original plan. Then I considered this must be one of the hottest spot, at which the wire may touch the engine. So I became concerned solder would not hold. This is the reason I started this thread.
Have not pulled the intake manifold yet, to expose wire.

 

[Julian Stead]

Unless it is going to be touching the exhaust then a solder joint will be fine. The repair would have the same protection as the original cable so it will be ok, as the connectors have there own heat shrink. Nothing wrong with the crimp type, but they are bulkier and you need a good crimping tool and access can be a problem.

 

[2001LC]

I'll take all suggestions given here as they all are very good. I'll solder the wire in a crimp type holder, shrink wrap, then wrap with high heat tape.

Just need wire size now so I can get all materials before I pull manifold.

 

[Julian Stead]

We used to use raychem cwt-9002 in the dealership, these where provided by the car manufacterer for repairing looms, these would qualify for a approved warranty repair.

 

[Sandroad]

The wire is small. I just had the joy this afternoon of vacuuming out a huge mouse nest from that area. No damaged wiring, but I did see the sensors and wires. I'm guessing around 16 gauge. Unless the little devils chewed it all up, there is large gauge heat protection tubing on the entire wire.

 

[2001LC]

We used to use raychem cwt-9002 in the dealership, these where provided by the car manufacterer for repairing looms, these would qualify for a approved warranty repair.

Can these be used without specialty tools?

I see this one's good up to 150C.
052433-000 Raychem Connectors | TE Connectivity

The wire is small. I just had the joy this afternoon of vacuuming out a huge mouse nest from that area. No damaged wiring, but I did see the sensors and wires. I'm guessing around 16 gauge. Unless the little devils chewed it all up, there is large gauge heat protection tubing on the entire wire.

I only saw a short piece of wire ~4", connected to the knock sensor. It looked like 18 or 16 gauge to me as well. The heat tubing was gone from my sight, Mickey & Minnie had a feast I suppose.

I wasn't able to get it all vacuumed out: Engine wash

 

[hankinid]

Can these be used without specialty tools?

I see this one's good up to 150C.
052433-000 Raychem Connectors | TE Connectivity

Having had more than a bit of experience in designing Raychem splices, the quick response is that's not a good pick but not a big deal...

Part you picked is for splicing a shielded cable. You'll need a calibrated crimp tool, a heat gun designed for shrinking tubing and Solder Sleeves, and cable rated for 150C minimum...otherwise you'll melt your oem wire. 150C is the low end of the temp rating for airframe wire and cable.

Knock sensor wires are in free air, Yota uses wire rated at 125C continuous, so no issues there if you use standard automotive pvc (rated anywhere from nothing to maybe 80 or 105C. If you're afraid the wire will touch the exhaust manifold, the correct fix is to either replace it with better wire or route it so it can't touch the manifold. Failing that, 6" of high-temp sleeving (ceramic with red silicone coating) from Aeroquip or equivalent works well.

Correct Raychem PN for the splice you need is CWT-9001...you'll need a heat gun with SolderSleeve reflector. Heat the solder until it melts and flows, and then move to each end of the splice in turn.

hth

Steve

 

[2001LC]

I'm learning how little I know about splicing. I really like the look of these Raychem's, the CWT-9001 look perfect. I'll check with Grainger.

Here's the tools I found in my box, the gun is 1,000 watts. Will they work?

 

[Julian Stead]

You wont need a crimper for raychem cwt's, they are a solder joint, you just need to apply heat. Youtube has some videos showing how this can be done.

 

[2001LC]

I love these splicer; crimp less hold, solder & water proof shrink wrap all in one. These will save time & $. I'll just test my heat gun on one, If works well I'll not even need to buy any new tools.

 

[Julian Stead]

We never have mice problems here in the UK, or i'm not aware of it. I think it must have something to do with all the pet cats that are out roaming the streets. I am sure I have read another thread that someone had the exact issue you've had with knock sensor wire being chewed on by mice, i've got a feeling of deja vu.

These raychems are a good product, just do a couple of test runs to get some practice and you should be good to go, once they are set the joint is very strong and reliable.

 

[2001LC]

We used to use raychem cwt-9002 in the dealership, these where provided by the car manufacterer for repairing looms, these would qualify for a approved warranty repair.

Having had more than a bit of experience in designing Raychem splices, the quick response is that's not a good pick but not a big deal...

Part you picked is for splicing a shielded cable. You'll need a calibrated crimp tool, a heat gun designed for shrinking tubing and Solder Sleeves, and cable rated for 150C minimum...otherwise you'll melt your oem wire. 150C is the low end of the temp ratine for airframe wire and cable.

Knock sensor wires are in free air, Yota uses wire rated at 125C continuous, so no issues there if you use standard automotive pvc (rated anywhere from nothing to maybe 80 or 105C. If you're afraid the wire will touch the exhaust manifold, the correct fix is to either replace it with better wire or route it so it can't touch the manifold. Failing that, 6" of high-temp sleeving (ceramic with red silicone coating) from Aeroquip or equivalent works well.

Correct Raychem PN for the splice you need is CWT-9001...you'll need a heat gun with SolderSleeve reflector. Heat the solder until it melts and flows, and then move to each end of the splice in turn.

hth

Steve

Guy's is there any difference between the cwt-9001 & 9002 other than the size wire it's rated for?
Have I got the sizes correct: 9001 = 26-22 AWG, 9002 = 26-16 AWG?