Knock sensor wire cut, what do I do HELP

[2001LC]

I was thinking they made these knock sensor wire & connector kits because Mickey & Minnie's favorite home. But now I see it must be because these often get brittle and break when replacing sensor.

 

[Julian Stead]

I did read that a toyota master tech advised to change these connectors if you ever expose them, due to being poor quality and causing issues. He said that the new connectors are a improved design. Might be why they have a bigger cable.

 

[hankinid]

UH OH problem. The Dealer kit (clip & wire) has a 20AWG wire, and the knock sensor wire harness is 30AWG (possible 31AWG). The Raychem cwt-9002 are for 22-18. Now what do I do?

The old knock sensor clip is very brittle and is not reusable?

Simply strip the 30awg wire twice as long as the instructions recommend, and fold it back on itself. You've now got a conductor splice that's 20awg on one side and maybe 28 or 29 aww on the other...well within the 22-18 aww recommendation.

Your major issue will be to build up the insulation diameter of the 30 awg wire to at least what the minimum diameter shown in the SolderSleeve instructions, as was posted above. You'll need a short piece of, I'm guessing, 1/16" at least, and if necessary, a piece of 3/32 over that.

Steve

 

[Sandroad]

The flux (rosin) is to prevent oxidation of the wire surface while soldering. It makes it so the solder sticks to the wire. I don't know if very old flux loses the ability to do that.

 

[2001LC]

I did read that a toyota master tech advised to change these connectors if you ever expose them, due to being poor quality and causing issues. He said that the new connectors are a improved design. Might be why they have a bigger cable.

Possible why my parts guy gave me two when I ask for one, just SOP for him I suppose. Hope he also has the starter connection, it broke as well. Looking for replacement starter as well, it's seal & boots are just too brittle. Had very difficult time breaking those back bolts loose. I'm thinking the rig was driven a few 100 miles and cooked Mickey & Minnie and their house, trapping excesses heat in area. This stuff brittleness and frozen bolts has surprised me. I'm gone to replace the injector seals and all intake gaskets as well.

Simply strip the 30awg wire twice as long as the instructions recommend, and fold it back on itself. You've now got a conductor splice that's 20awg on one side and maybe 28 or 29 aww on the other...well within the 22-18 aww recommendation.

Your major issue will be to build up the insulation diameter of the 30 awg wire to at least what the minimum diameter shown in the SolderSleeve instructions, as was posted above. You'll need a short piece of, I'm guessing, 1/16" at least, and if necessary, a piece of 3/32 over that.

Steve

That's a great Idea Steve, thanks. Some shrink wrap should work well. Do I need special automotive shrink wrap or will any do?

The flux (rosin) is to prevent oxidation of the wire surface while soldering. It makes it so the solder sticks to the wire. I don't know if very old flux loses the ability to do that.

I didn't know that, I thought is was just to lower melting point.

I'm learning a lot form you guy's. I'd have botch this job if not for all of you. Thanks too you all.

 

[2001LC]

Here a few more pictures.

The starter wire has a few teeth marks on the end going in connector, but ok. Wish connector clip hadn't broke. I did manage to save the right bank knock sensor connector clip, but from what was said, I'll replace it also.

I'm going to split the intake manifold and clean it out, along with replacing all seals and gaskets. I fogged with sea foam and drove ~5 miles before starting this job. Doesn't look like Sea Foam clean much, but appears to have soften the gunk.

 

[hankinid]

Possible why my parts guy gave me two when I ask for one, just SOP for him I suppose. Hope he also has the starter connection, it broke as well. Looking for replacement starter as well, it's seal & boots are just too brittle. Had very difficult time breaking those back bolts loose. I'm thinking the rig was driven a few 100 miles and cooked Mickey & Minnie and their house, trapping excesses heat in area. This stuff brittleness and frozen bolts has surprised me. I'm gone to replace the injector seals and all intake gaskets as well.

That's a great Idea Steve, thanks. Some shrink wrap should work well. Do I need special automotive shrink wrap or will any do?

I didn't know that, I thought is was just to lower melting point.

I'm learning a lot form you guy's. I'd have botch this job if not for all of you. Thanks too you all.

I think I'd also take a close look at the cooling system.

You want regular 2:1 shrink ratio tubing, 3:1 would be nice but maybe not easy to score locally. Automotive tubing is designed to end up with a very thick wall and tons of sealant...think battery cables on a car or semi or tank.

Sandroad was correct about why you need rosin to get a good solder joint. Old solder with dried out rosin still works.

Before I left, we used a tin-led-cadmium alloy that melted at 135C. EPA's worldwide said no more Cd, so work started with Bismuth. The Raychem spec sheet should definitely list the solder type.

Steve...and we need pics of your splice when finished.

 

[2001LC]

I've been looking at cooling system as much as one can. So far I've noted a few things (214K miles): No calcium deposit top of radiator fins, red coolant, slight yellow film in neck finger wipe test, top (plastic) of radiator browning, hose supple, reservoir had a little green staining. Water pump replace 4k miles (18 mo.) ago thermostat unknown. I'll be topping off coolant once done with cuurent work and watching for any use or leaks very closely.

My old solder is between 20 and 40 years old, good old stuff i suppose?

I'll first try using Raychem's, and use old solder as back up. I'll pick up some fresh shrink wrap at auto parts store.

For sure post pic's

Thanks.

 

[hankinid]

My old solder is between 20 and 40 years old, good old stuff i suppose?

I'll first try using Raychem's, and use old solder as back up. I'll pick up some fresh shrink wrap at auto parts store.

For sure post pic's

Thanks.

I've got some that old, but for stuff like you're doing I'd find some solder a bit younger.

Raychem's solder preform is dipped in liquid rosin so it's ready to rock.

Steve

 

[2001LC]

Thanks too all of you, I finish the splice. All of your ideas & insight helped me get this job done, and feel it will out last me.
Tools, parts procedure:
Remove Intake manifold & starter (optional).
Heat gun with home made narrow curved reflector. (Thanks @handkinid, narrowed forced me to keep gun moving.)
Wire strippers.
Pick & safety pin, to remove old connector housing.
Dealer replacement Housing connectors & wire connector end.
Raychem SolderGrip Heat-Shrink Butt Splicer CPGI-CWT-9002 (22-18AWG)
Two very small & one small high temp Heat Shrink wrap. (Thanks @handkinid great idea)
High temp (194 deg F) Scotch Vinyl tape.

After removing Intake manifold too reveal the remnants of Mickey's & Minnie's remodeling job. I cleaned & cleaned & cleaned rebuilding starter & intake manifold which included have fuel injectors rebuilt by FIS Fuel Injector Specialists - Home - Wheat Ridge, CO (great job Chuck at FIS, thank you) completely before begin splice.

First I needed to test my homemade heat gun reflector with choice of procedure and parts.

Once sure all was going to work, as well as possible, to give me the best outcome, I began.

 

[2001LC]

Finally getting to the real job at hand, correcting CEL PO325.
Doubling up with the very small heat shrink warp on the 30AWG wire coming from harness, building up to ~20AWG. This was to match the Butt Splicer spec & dealer supplied replace wire lead. I then spliced the wires by heating with gun. Moving heat gun with homemade reflector from side to side constantly across Butt Splicer, to keep from creating a hot spot. Then slipped a small but long heat shrink warp over butt splicer and both wire ends. Finished splice by warping with high temp vinyl tap. I then added new knock sensor and starter connector housings and attached. Sweet...................

 

[hankinid]

2001LC, nice job, good solder flow and noting overheated or fried. Congratulations!!

Can you imagine trying that job with a soldering iron?

steve

 

[2001LC]

I checked the knock sensor by the book, but not the wire or connection. But I'm confident with the all the help you and others gave, it's solid.

 

[Julian Stead]

Good Job..

 

[2001LC]

Installed intake manifold & TB, rebuilt fuel injectors along with new Idler pulley & tensioner bearing last night. Fired her up ...an Mickey & Minnie's porch light......... CEL............. is out.

A lot of work for 1 wire. Of course I cleaned & rebuilt everything along the way, just for fun.

 

[spressomon]

@2001LC

Nice post & write up! Looks like my turn next ... PO325 started today.

Do you happen to have the part # for the connector? And do you know if Fuel Injector Specialists tested your injectors hot (rather than the more typical cold/room temp for most shops)?

 

[2001LC]

The terminal's (wire's) are 82998-12440, the housing for knock sensor 90980-11166:

This is start housing, just in case they're brittle.

YES, regarding your question "tested your injectors hot"
This is from the web page: Fuel Injector Specialists - Home - Wheat Ridge, CO

9) Unlike ANY OTHER CLEANING SERVICE, we leak test at high AND low
temperatures. Got a car which runs good cold, but gets jittery
hot, or vice versa, and never sets a code, or the fuel trims
don't show any terribly out of spec deviations? If you don't test
hot AND cold, these defective injectors will slip past the process,
and will be shown "O.k." Not at FIS!

We also do the "cross-fire" injectors! We can tell you
from experience where the cross fires go bad -- it is NOT the
computer, fuel pump, or oxy sensor! Everyone else runs from
these -- good injectors on a cross fire, with no shorts where
the wiring goes through the top of the throttle body, and these
engines will purr. (Hey, we didn't say anything about horsepower!)

When to replace fuel injectors

You may like to contact Chuck and ask him directly. Be sure to mention your from "mud" he may still honor a discount.

 

[spressomon]

All parts ordered. Thanks @2001LC and @beno!

 

[2001LC]

I've got to say I really like the Raychem Heat shrink splicers! I got those from Grainger

 

[spressomon]

I just pulled the intake manifold apart of working down to the knock sensor ala PO325 code. Last year, after having a nest of mice in the garage, we had a new garage door installed along with plugging up all their entry points. So I guess they took retribution for my actions ...

Little fawkers.

Not sure but I think I found the problem Sorry for the crappy iPhone 7 pics.