Procedure for replacing 100 series(98 and up) starter contacts (4 Viewers)

[Nightbrew]

Ok I replaced my housing with a new one. Next problem. It appears the manifold gaskets that are in the rig are aftermarket. At least they don’t look like what I ordered. How do I determine the correct orientation and am I supposed to just snip of the middle “connecting” portion? I might get it installed tonight if I can get this figured out. Thanks as usual.

 

[Eyedaho]

Ok I replaced my housing with a new one. Next problem. It appears the manifold gaskets that are in the rig are aftermarket. At least they don’t look like what I ordered. How do I determine the correct orientation and am I supposed to just snip of the middle “connecting” portion? I might get it installed tonight if I can get this figured out. Thanks as usual.

View attachment 2446149

I believe you have the gasket that goes between the upper and lower sections of the intake manifold, and not the one that goes between the manifold and the heads. For my '99 I needed two of 17171-50020 for the intake manifold to head.

 

[Nightbrew]

I believe you have the gasket that goes between the upper and lower sections of the intake manifold, and not the one that goes between the manifold and the heads. For my '99 I needed two of 17171-50020 for the intake manifold to head.

s***, you are certainly right. I just double checked on partsouq. I must have clicked on the wrong one, and not noticed. I just keep running into delays. But no one's fault but my own. So while I get the correct gaskets coming in, is there a way to determine the correct orientation? I feel like I read that they can be installed upside down, and could potentially be a cause for a leaking. Thanks again

 

[2001LC]

White tips up and out

 

[Nightbrew]

White tips up and outView attachment 2446320

Thanks Paul. My local dealer wanted $35 per side. I said no thanks, I will wait for a few more days.

 

[2001LC]

I like having fuel injectors clean tested and rebuilt while intake manifold out. At minimum, I replace the 8 fuel injector insulators.

When to Clean or Replace fuel injectors

Please post your experiences and thoughts on the subject. I’ve been considering cleaning or even replacing all 8 fuel injectors, is this wasting time and money. I understand keeping fuel injector clean by adding a can of additive to the gas tank, now & then, is a good practice. This keeps them...

forum.ih8mud.com

23291-41010 INSULATOR, INJECTOR VIBRATION 98-07

 

[Nightbrew]

I like having fuel injectors clean tested and rebuilt while intake manifold out. At minimum, I replace the 8 fuel injector insulators.

When to Clean or Replace fuel injectors

Please post your experiences and thoughts on the subject. I’ve been considering cleaning or even replacing all 8 fuel injectors, is this wasting time and money. I understand keeping fuel injector clean by adding a can of additive to the gas tank, now & then, is a good practice. This keeps them...

forum.ih8mud.com

View attachment 2446480
23291-41010 INSULATOR, INJECTOR VIBRATION 98-07View attachment 2446484

I noticed my injectors move very easily. Can this be from worn out insulators, or are they supposed to do that?

 

[2001LC]

Those insulators are rubber and shrink. Replace now with intake manifold off is easy.

It also eliminates risk of sand dropping into intake head ports, doing later. Which is a very big deal and engine killer/smoke and compression loss..

 

[Eyedaho]

I noticed my injectors move very easily. Can this be from worn out insulators, or are they supposed to do that?

They move pretty easily, but if the insulators are original then it's a good idea to replace them. There's nothing keeping them from rotating, since they're just captured between the fuel rail and the manifold, which can seem a little unnerving when they rotate like that. That lower insulator gets pretty cooked from then engine heat.

 

[Nightbrew]

So if I go ahead and replace the insulators, do I need I remove the fuel rail to do it? I haven’t removed any of injectors yet, so I’m not sure what is involved. If I have to remove the fuel rails, what other gaskets l, o rings, grommets, insulators etc, need replaced?

 

[2001LC]

Yes rials must come up or off. But do not remove the banjo bolts from cross over tube connecting rial one side to the other. Nor fuel dampener or fuel pressure regulator. Otherwise you must replace all the gaskets (washers) & o-rings. Instead remove the small 10mm bolts holding down the brackets of rial and any in your way. If real careful, you can then just pull the rial assemble up enough or off with injectors still plugged up in the rails. But it is also a great time to replace the seals (O-ring & grommet in 98-05) on top of fuel injectors in the rial side as well So if doing those also, just lift the rial off and pull the fuel injectors.

Main reason for doing the insulator now. Is so not to drop dirt down intake ports doing later, with intake manifold in place. You can clean each injector port of the intake manifold and seat in the new insulators very cleanly. If say, in next 2K, 5K or 10K miles or few years. You'd like to have injector rebuilt, you'll not need to replace the insulator. So injector can be R&I, without removing the intake for a cleaner job. Addition you just protected against a potential vacuum leak for next 10 or 20 year at intake fuel injector ports.


In 98-05 the top of fuel injector seal into fuel rails with O-ring 90301-07024 and Grommet 90480-13005

 

[Nightbrew]

Sorry to bump this thread, but I need to say thank you for this post, I would have paid someone to do it...maybe I should have!! I would not have attempted without this though.

I have a question. I was was doing this job this weekend and when pulling the manifold the fuel line circled below
had to be removed so I thought, so I bent it to get it so that I could remove the manifold and low and below is says "don't kink this line"!! Would have helped if the text was facing so I could see it! So I kinked it, I never was able to remove it, but now I need to replace it. How is that thing on there? Is it part of the rail system? Do I need a whole new rail? Hoping to go get whatever I need tomorrow. Hose or rail? Need part # if someone has it handy!

View attachment 1599141

What did you end up doing? I bent/kinked my hose. I have one on order. If you replaced it, how does go on? Any help is appreciated.

 

[Kmonty66]

Well oddly enough I did not have to replace it. I thought that I had kinked/bent it, but it seemed to be okay when I put it all back together.

I have had no problems since then, without replacement.

 

[Jczajka]

The starter on my 2000 LX ( January 2000 production date) was replaced in July 2009 by Lexus due to a no start issue from a former owner, according to service history.

Is it worth rebuilding?

Starting takes just a second or two and I don't seem to have any and I attribute any slowness to my Optima Red Top 35 which sucks. The battery doesn't hold a charge well and never has, even with a 1a diode in alternator fuse location and with top charges from my Noco Genius battery charger. Going to see if Advance Auto will replace it with a different battery. Recently cleaned all ground with a pilot brush and installed the Big 3 Kit with grease at all contact points.

I have no need to dig into the intake at this point; every other wear item in that area has been replaced. I was going to get injectors cleaned and tested and put in all new seals. I wasn't planning on taking the manifold apart, just clean the engine a bit and replace all the injector seals. Extra time for the work and money for the parts adds up quickly with these projects.


What is consensus on rebuilding or replacing?

My local dealer has a remanufactured starter (28100-50070-84) for $110 (plus core charge) and adding up the parts to rebuild comes to about $44 with rebuild kits, plunger, vent tunes, and seals.

I assume a remanned starter will have all the items I mentioned above replace, plus new bearings, armature, gears, clutch, wires, etc. Is that the case? I love rebuilding stuff and saving money, but for ~$60 more I can get a reman right from Toyota that has all refreshed parts.

 

[Nostradamus]

The starter on my 2000 LX ( January 2000 production date) was replaced in July 2009 by Lexus due to a no start issue from a former owner, according to service history.

Is it worth rebuilding?

Starting takes just a second or two and I don't seem to have any and I attribute any slowness to my Optima Red Top 35 which sucks. The battery doesn't hold a charge well and never has, even with a 1a diode in alternator fuse location and with top charges from my Noco Genius battery charger. Going to see if Advance Auto will replace it with a different battery. Recently cleaned all ground with a pilot brush and installed the Big 3 Kit with grease at all contact points.

I have no need to dig into the intake at this point; every other wear item in that area has been replaced. I was going to get injectors cleaned and tested and put in all new seals. I wasn't planning on taking the manifold apart, just clean the engine a bit and replace all the injector seals. Extra time for the work and money for the parts adds up quickly with these projects.


What is consensus on rebuilding or replacing?

My local dealer has a remanufactured starter (28100-50070-84) for $110 (plus core charge) and adding up the parts to rebuild comes to about $44 with rebuild kits, plunger, vent tunes, and seals.

I assume a remanned starter will have all the items I mentioned above replace, plus new bearings, armature, gears, clutch, wires, etc. Is that the case? I love rebuilding stuff and saving money, but for ~$60 more I can get a reman right from Toyota that has all refreshed parts.

My 2005 V8 4Runner has some extra emissions stuff in the valley along with the starter, so when I had to replace one of the vacuum valves for emissions, I had to take the manifold off to do it. While I had that opened up, I put in a new OEM starter even tho the existing one was working fine. (220K miles on it). That emissions job was such a PITA, I didn't want to have to go back in to do the starter if it failed. I'm like you, and normally rebuild my starters, but on all my other vehicles, I don't have to take the intake manifold off to get to them. I rebuilt the starter I pulled out, and have it as a spare should I ever need it, but I'm hoping that I'll get another 220K miles out of the new starter.

 

[2001LC]

The starter on my 2000 LX ( January 2000 production date) was replaced in July 2009 by Lexus due to a no start issue from a former owner, according to service history.

Is it worth rebuilding?

Starting takes just a second or two and I don't seem to have any and I attribute any slowness to my Optima Red Top 35 which sucks. The battery doesn't hold a charge well and never has, even with a 1a diode in alternator fuse location and with top charges from my Noco Genius battery charger. Going to see if Advance Auto will replace it with a different battery. Recently cleaned all ground with a pilot brush and installed the Big 3 Kit with grease at all contact points.

I have no need to dig into the intake at this point; every other wear item in that area has been replaced. I was going to get injectors cleaned and tested and put in all new seals. I wasn't planning on taking the manifold apart, just clean the engine a bit and replace all the injector seals. Extra time for the work and money for the parts adds up quickly with these projects.


What is consensus on rebuilding or replacing?

My local dealer has a remanufactured starter (28100-50070-84) for $110 (plus core charge) and adding up the parts to rebuild comes to about $44 with rebuild kits, plunger, vent tunes, and seals.

I assume a remanned starter will have all the items I mentioned above replace, plus new bearings, armature, gears, clutch, wires, etc. Is that the case? I love rebuilding stuff and saving money, but for ~$60 more I can get a reman right from Toyota that has all refreshed parts.

Getting a Toyota -84 for $110 is a great deal.

Denso rep I spoke with said; the difference between Denso and Toyota Denso starter is: Toyota has specific parts must be replaced. Whereas with Denso starter, what parts are replaced, is up to the re-builder. In any case, with a rebuilt starter pull plunger and reset contacts. If tech rebuilding did not seat contacts properly, you'll have issues.

The $44 dollars will only get you contact and plunger. If you replace breathers, seals, brushes and bearings it will add up over $100. It also takes time to rebuild. But you get satisfaction of a job well done.



I rebuild when it's my rig. But buy when a customer rig, as saves labor cost.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Just did this job today, not too bad it took me 4 hrs. I also broke the starter wiring harness connector as well as the coolant temperature sensor.

 

[BnvS]

Just did this job today, not too bad it took me 4 hrs. I also broke the starter wiring harness connector as well as the coolant temperature sensor.

View attachment 2591574

So what did you do when you broke the connector ? The connectors above the head usually crack due to the extreme heat cycles.

Thanks.

 

[2001LC]

4 hours, WOW.

I keep some starter wire housing connectors on hand. They break so very often.

I take near 4 hours just cleaning. Starting with the top of the engine. First with HP water, than HP air while wet, than HP air after dry just before pulling bolts and after. Sand falling into intake ports is a compression killer.

Last thing after cleaning all gasket surfaces, before placing new gaskets on, is vacuuming each intake port.

First I vacuum out the shop paper towels out, which are lint free. Thus pulling/vacuuming most dust, sand, clean waste out with towels.

Vacuuming out each paper towel

Then I vacuum out the ports, paying extra special attention to valves.

With flashlight and camera I check each port is free of contaminates.

 

[mitchjohnson000]

I ordered the starter wiring harness connector (#90980) before I did the job since so many reported it crumbling. I replaced the intake gaskets as well, white marks up. I had to run to the autoparts store to get a aftermarket coolant temp sensor. I normally would have taken more time to clean everything better but it was 19 degrees out so...