Builds Spyduh's Crawler80 Build (5 Viewers)

[baldilocks]

The heavies are a 4” lift spring if your rig weighs something like 7k pounds. Mine lifted my rig almost 6” empty and what I call a full load only mashed them maybe an inch to 1.5” inches so I still had at least a full 4” of lift with my version of a heavy load. And they don’t ride harshly unloaded. A high quality product.

 

[spyduh]

Broke 2 1/2 breaker bars. Using a 8 foot cheater. Crank Bolt would not come loose.

Switched to 3/4 in bar with a floor jack. It finally broke loose. The old crank seal came off with the pulley. At least it saved me time. That sucker is looooose. She all stretched out inside.

Then all 7 screws stripped out. Then needed to be drilled out. Sigh. Finally got it all out and cleaned all the parts up.

Whoever last did thr job used sealant on the crank bolt and oil pump cover. It waa s super crispy too.

Installed new crank seal.
Installed new oring gasket on the oil pump cover.
Reinstalled belts and AC pulley and put on a new idler bearing. Previous installer did not use one and grey sealent a regular bolt in the hole. Idiot.

Fan clutch would have went in but im waiting for my 22.5k CST fluid to DIY blue fan mod.

 

[spyduh]

My buddy setup my 5.29 gears. We got them cryo treated so they should be stronger.

He had to tear mine apart 3 times before the pattern was right. He also used the factory oil singer gear with the solid spacer. Nitro in the box said its ok not to use it. He was like thats crazy since Mr T has it in there for a reason. He had to modify it to work but it's in with the solid spacer now.

So my retired toyota mechanic buddy is going to start doing side jobs if any one is interested.

He does differential gear setup and installs.
Tcase lowrange gear installs for mini trucks, cruisers and Toyota's etc. He'll also do motor rebuilds. Either supply your own parts or he can supply them for you. He can also setup elocker, ARB, air lockers, Detroit, lunchbox, open diff. Etc...

PM and I can send his contact info.

 

[spyduh]

Anyway I installed it. This sucker is heavy doing it solo. I'm not looking forward to stabbing in the rear 9.5 myself

 

[spyduh]

Here are pics of the Original Mr T oil baffle slinger. The sticker said to remove that. My buddy just modded it to work with the solid spacer. Most installers would have just thrown that away. He did the same mod to my Turbo80 488s oil slinger.

Mr T engineers put it there for a reason!

 

[baldilocks]

My diffs were built by Justdifferentials with solid spacers. When I replaced the front pinion seal and worn companion flange, the slinger was there.

It’s good to know that some builders might leave the oil slinger out.

 

[spyduh]

Slee 4in medium. I decided to try the spacer first. 5in total lift. Flex test first and see if I want to go down or not.

 

[baldilocks]

Slee 4in medium. I decided to try the spacer first. 5in total lift. Flex test first and see if I want to go down or not.

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What’s the stock measurement from inner bump stop down to where it contacts the spring bucket?

 

[spyduh]

What’s the stock measurement from inner bump stop down to where it contacts the spring bucket?

It was 5.5 prior to hitting bumps with old setup.

Now its 6.5 and I added slee 2in pucks

 

[spyduh]

Side by Side compare. Best I could find.

 

[Broski]

What’s the stock measurement from inner bump stop down to where it contacts the spring bucket?

2”

 

[spyduh]

Bent. 1 trip to hammers. Was brand new.

Glad I bought one otherwise I be looking for a new motor.

Fixed it with

 

[baldilocks]

Mine doesn’t have one of those.

 

[GW Nugget]

Fast build, cant keep up with the reading. Good thing there is a lot of pics... Haha.

 

[spyduh]

Slee drive shaft not drilled straight. Wtf? Couldn't install it. Cant get a socket or wrench on it enough to tighten.

Bought it used from a MUD member. No idea how they even installed it. Slee is the grey color shaft in the middle

The bottom shaft is off my mini truck. Had it made with 925 wall and marlin long spline and toyota CV. Might have to use this and figure out how to fix the Slee shaft.

 

[spyduh]

Popped in the shafts and assembled the knuckles.

Waiting to ABS delete before put driver tire on.

Filled my PSC resv with PS fluid. The whole system took half a gallon! Thats a lot more fluid than factory.

PSC reservoir, derale 14in cooler and the 9in West Texas Offroad Redneck ram and AN6 lines.

 

[Broski]

Popped in the shafts and assembled the knuckles.

Waiting to ABS delete before put driver tire on.

Filled my PSC resv with PS fluid. The whole system took half a gallon! Thats a lot more fluid than factory.

PSC reservoir, derale 14in cooler and the 9in West Texas Offroad Redneck ram and AN6 lines.

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I'm thinking with 5" of lift and the Delta arms you may need a longer drive shaft. I'm sending my in to be lengthened after moving my axle foreword.
What back spacing are your wheels, I'm curious as to why your running wheel spacers.

 

[spyduh]

I'm thinking with 5" of lift and the Delta arms you may need a longer drive shaft. I'm sending my in to be lengthened after moving my axle foreword.
What back spacing are your wheels, I'm curious as to why your running wheel spacers.

The Slee shaft is made for 4 or 6 inch lift.
My mini shaft is the same length as the Slee. Its good to go. Its at the perfect length at rest.

Plus my mini shaft has long spline which probably isnt needed for an 80. It won't be popping apart at full droop.

Extra width so it feels less tippy. I ran it that way to Hammers on my 4in. It wheels fine and actually felt really stable. I got spacers in anticipation for my original thought of going 6in lift. Yes I know wheel spacers put pressure on bearings. Don't care, this is not a daily driver. Wheel bearings are cheap and easy to replace.

BS 3.75 on the racelines

 

[spyduh]

Fixed the Slee shaft using a die grinder and clearancing the flange. Cut a 13mm wrench to make a custom length and thinner profile and opened it up to 14mm. I have like 3 13mm wrenches for some reason. Time to make use of one of them.

Dropped off my mini truck shaft to Southbay so they can fix the long spline bend and rebalance my shaft.

Filled my diff fluid. Its almost ready to go.

 

[spyduh]

Blue Fan mod. Draining over night. Then adjust 95, 100 or maybe 110 degree. Then will fill with 20k CST.


I'm working on blue fan tomorrow and getting cooling system back together. Front end work almost done except for me needing to delete abs pump and all extra lines and LPSV and bleed brakes.

Getting close to done. Weekend... I will weld lower rear Eimkeith link armor. Weld in my rear currie antirock sway. Wheel bearing job in the rear. Then pop in my rear diff and reassmble all the rear axle and install new Slee 4" heavy progressive springs and Dobi 4-5 yellow shocks.

Do a quick test drive, drop off for alignment. Get it home and then break in the 529 gears and perform 3 heat/coo cycles. Drive 100 miles, flush break in fluid and refill. Then take to Hollister and test all the new changes at once.