If I lift it with my 4 foot jackstands on the frame. it's decent space to weld underneath. It wont look pretty in spots with hard access.
Yea I use ratchet straps to reinstall the Housing Radius arms. However. My garage is at a slight slope so gravity wants to pull it down hill a bit. It's a 2 man job on my driveway. If it was flat I could probably solo. Fighting gravity is a bitc*
I hear fighting words about me being a young man and not being able to do it myself. LOL. ......... just kidding
A complete axle is not light, with hubs/knuckles/drums or discs and diffs out it is a totally different beast. I did carry the old 80 rear out by using a tree saver and putting a bolt through the upper control arm axle mounts through the strap and put the strap over my shoulder. It was actually pretty stupid but I wanted to see how heavy. Do it the smart way, bare or on a moving dolly
Cryo treating the gears will add some strength and peace of mind. It’s not easy to find places that do it. If you’re in the Bay Area and are interested, I will send you the info. Nice build !
Rampt Customs (Australia) Truss and knuckle gussets.
Ballastic Fab lower diff armor.
Marlin diff armor not installed yet. Need to cut more off to clear the panhard.
Now the gear oil can be drained and the axles and pumpkin comes out. 5.29 gears are next for install and then a full knuckle rebuild goes back in when ready.
Cryo treating the gears will add some strength and peace of mind. It’s not easy to find places that do it. If you’re in the Bay Area and are interested, I will send you the info. Nice build !
Got a cheap Amazon plasma cutter 240/110 pilot arc and it cuts pretty good. It could only go through 1/3 of that 1inch thick bar. Also got some 4T amazon openbox bottle jacks to replace both cruiser factory worm gear jacks. I weld on 2 squares for more surface area.
Using Rampt Customs, Ballastic Fab and Marlin combo of parts to armor, truss and gusset the 80 housing. This is as much as you can do to beef up an 80 axle housing
Took off drag link and tie rod.
Found my death wobble problem. Blown TREs in the front drag link.
I replaced the rears with my EMF TREs before Hammers ( EMF saved from my mini truck ).
I been waiting to install my EMFs up front but was waiting on hydro install for obvious reasons because you need to replace the entire bar and get rid of the weird 80 TRE that goes to the Pittman arm.
I have a used bar I need to cut to length ans weld on new bungs.
Diff drained, drive shaft removed, diff nuts removed and cracked open. Tomorrow l tear apart the front knuckles and pop out the high pinion 3rd.
I also dropped off my Nitro R&P for cryo treating.
I've been back and forth with my suspension setup now. New plan after talking with @baldilocks and @Broski is to go 4" slee front and 4" slee rear progressive heavies. I'm buying 30mm spacers as well so i will be at a total of 5 inch lift. This will work better with my Delta 6 radius arms for a better caster angle.
Need to get my Slees ordered tomorrow.
Effectively a 5inch lift and 39s nets me what I wanted to do with a 6in and 37s. Worst case if I think 5 is too tall. I can easily pop out the spacers to a 4in lift.
You know whats the best way to remove grease?
1. wear gloves ( obvious )
2. Save produce bags you get from grocery store and bag your hands. You'll need 6 to 10.
3. Scoop with your bagged hands. Flip bag over and rinse and repeat.
4. Use news paper and get the residual grease out.
5. Finish up with brake clean ans shop towels
6. Throw all those bags into one bag and dispose of properly.
Tomorrows agenda is remove rear drive shaft. Pull rear end parts and pull rear 3rd.
If I have time. I will finish weld the remaining housing armor up front and weld in my eimkeith link reinforcements.
It's a great time to do PHH with all that crap gone. I been putting that off since ive done 3 in my life and I hated all 3. Maybe this time will be different
Naw don't think so.
It's a great time to do PHH with all that crap gone. I been putting that off since ive done 3 in my life and I hated all 3. Maybe this time will be different
Naw don't think so.
Go buy 2ft of Gates green or white stripe hose and run one continuous hose from head to heater valve. I routed mine just inboard of the brake booster. Less clamps means less possible leaks and an easier procedure.
Drained rear gear oil. Removed FF axles. Popped out 3rd and cleaned the housing.
Struggled with removing PHH for 2.5 hours. I'm missing my XL Gearwrench 120xp 12mm .
Would have made reaching the bolt way easier. Ive decided to just bypass it. This is my 4th PHH and no it doesn't get easier with experience. Ugh.
Whats I'm impressive is 268k on an original Mr T PHH! Still looks decent too wasnt really dripping either.
Need to run to the store tomorrow and find some gates green stripe.
It’s a good idea to tack weld the jam nuts on those upper links if you haven’t already done so. Mine kept coming loose until I tacked them. Lowers haven’t been a problem.
It’s a good idea to tack weld the jam nuts on those upper links if you haven’t already done so. Mine kept coming loose until I tacked them. Lowers haven’t been a problem.
I'll take a look while im under there doing the eimkeith llm.
Tomorrows agenda is to change out all heater hoses and flush and fill radiator.
If I have time I need to finish weld my front housing armor and then move to the rear.
I also removed my rear sway bar today too. I'm probably going to weld on the Currie antirock rear sway since I'm down near the end of the truck too.
I ordered the Slee 4s and waiting for them to ship out. This 80 is in pieces right now. Doing EVERTHING at once kind of is fun and stupid at the same time.
......... just kidding
LOL
.
