Those “tiny” 8mm studs held up ……. 
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- Thread starter
- #542
Barely. 3 out of 6 were loose on each side. They would have snapped midwayThose “tiny” 8mm studs held up …….
Loose has nothing to do with the ability if the oem set up. They became loose bc the arp cone washers are not a proper fit. Ask Chuck. Run oem cones with ARP studs torqued to 30 and enjoy engineering over brute force.
I’m running out of ideas to keep your rig moving down the trail. I think I’ll just bring a few rolls of Gorilla tape.
That front hub got chewed up pretty bad too. You planning on running the bigger ARP bolts up front too?
- Thread starter
- #545
Dude the rears were 100% OEM studs, cones, washer and nuts. They loosened from Bay Area all the way to WH3. I'm guessing the wheeling is what loosen them and not the regular street miles.
The front hubs had 1-2 loose but still loose nonetheless with 100% ARP hardware. Yeah. It just loosens, it's a part of wheeling and big ass tires. Just got to nut and bolt all the time. Thats it
- Thread starter
- #546
that front hub factory inner/outer gears exploded into 6 pieces. I was not going to run bigger bolts up front as they seem fine so far. I know the next upgrade is the 100 series larger hubs and 10mm hardware.
I think @cruisermatt said the fronts can also be drilled out to 7/16 hardware as well. But I don't see how that's possible with the amount of material on those front hubs!
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Ive done the front hubs on mini/40/60’s. Can’t remember if I’ve done 80 fronts. @Slickrick and I were discussing it with his Duramax swap.
The rear is really where the issues come up on 80’s.
I only ever the mini-truck guys have issues with the front hub studs, running 40” stickies and everything else upgraded.
- Thread starter
- #548
Yea... I haven't really had any problems with my front hubs studs coming loose. The front hub gear did explode but I'm thinking of going Chromoly hub gears or maybe staying OEM for a more reliable fuse.
Rears loosening are the problem for me. The 7/16 should hopefully fix that. We're not going to talk about the flange problem in the rear =)
I was standing about 30 feet away when that hub let loose. Sounded just like an axle snapping. Why run larger hub fasteners when ,clearly, they are not the lowest common denominator of drivetrain failure?
Yeah I agree, wasn't sure if something else also let go. The Aisin hubs are pretty damn strong as-is. Eventually I want to run the chromoly studless hubs and just get rid of the whole hub/drive flange assembly. I'm halfway there with the 5th gen 4Runner brakes, just a matter of getting the rest of the parts.
Eliminating risk takes the fun out of the sport. Having said that, if I begin to break parts too frequently, a set of junk yard 1 tons in stock form should suffice.
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- #552
thats where I'm about headed soon. I keep breaking s***.
FYI junkyard 1tons are near impossible to find now and on the open market you're looking at a few grand if not more. they have gone up in price now. Almost cheaper to buy custom housing and axles!
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- #553
you should have heard both REARS and the front let go. I've heard axles snap and it sounded 100% like axles snapping. It wasn't but was damn loud. I'm glad it was just the hubs lettings go since that's a really easy fuse to change out. I brought spare 5.29s diffs and I was prepared to change them out on WH3.
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I think andana 60 rear would be enough, maybe even the semi float version.
Maybe on a buggy, but not on anything that carries weight. The "economy" SF axles that were on the F250's and GM rated 3/4 ton full size trucks were trash if you took them off road with any weight in the back. The 80 is not a lightweight and IMHO, think you'd regret that choice. Just sayin'...
“Just say’n”? Are you sure?
Yeah the passenger-side drop makes it a challenge. The only front axles you can find at a reasonable price these days are the 05+ Superduty axles. But those require a ton of work/expense to run as passenger drop and like you said, at that point you might as well get a custom housing from ECGS.
I would buy an entire old truck for the axles, something that has trees growing up through it. But I don’t break stuff so much that I’d consider this plan as of yet. Cutting the axle tubes to locate the diffs and gain desired WMS to WMS would be part of the plan.
Thats a lot of work just to run 40's...just feather the skinny pedal and stick with 37's, no?
