- Thread starter
- #501
I have a little more room before I contact the frame.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #502
When you think your done wrenching your pile of junk, it tells you otherwise. During my tcase breakin cycle last night. I got a CEL just as I got home.
P0136. I had this code when I bought the truck from previous owner. I fixed the wiring and new denso o2s. Couldn't be the o2. I ohm'd it out and its within spec per FSM. I pinned out the truck side connector and found this broken pin.
Must have accidently pulled it during tcase job.
Fixed the pin, cleared the codes and the sensor is working again.
Never ends.... Sigh
This should be the last repair for now. Its ready for Rubithon
P0136. I had this code when I bought the truck from previous owner. I fixed the wiring and new denso o2s. Couldn't be the o2. I ohm'd it out and its within spec per FSM. I pinned out the truck side connector and found this broken pin.
Must have accidently pulled it during tcase job.
Fixed the pin, cleared the codes and the sensor is working again.
Never ends.... Sigh
This should be the last repair for now. Its ready for Rubithon
- Thread starter
- #503
Went wheeling with @Broski and @mustcamp and a few other buddies not on MUD.
Just made it home from Rubithon. Going to sleep now and will inspect all damage later.
Made it all the way out with @mustcamp up Caddy night wheeling last night.
On-air up at the brand new parking lot. I noticed a snapped stud. On closer inspection all studs were bent and almost lost both dowels.
Only 1 stud was removed whole. All other ARP black studs snapped flushed in the rear hub. The stock short side elocker axle shaft splines do not look twisted. Removed shaft. Stuff rag. Then drive home in 3wheel drive with center locked.
Otherwise minimum body damage from what I saw. Drove home with zero vibes.
I now need my rear 300Ms sooner. Going to possibly mod my rear hubs to bigger hardware like @jcardona1 recent mod
Just made it home from Rubithon. Going to sleep now and will inspect all damage later.
Made it all the way out with @mustcamp up Caddy night wheeling last night.
On-air up at the brand new parking lot. I noticed a snapped stud. On closer inspection all studs were bent and almost lost both dowels.
Only 1 stud was removed whole. All other ARP black studs snapped flushed in the rear hub. The stock short side elocker axle shaft splines do not look twisted. Removed shaft. Stuff rag. Then drive home in 3wheel drive with center locked.
Otherwise minimum body damage from what I saw. Drove home with zero vibes.
I now need my rear 300Ms sooner. Going to possibly mod my rear hubs to bigger hardware like @jcardona1 recent mod
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 581
- Messages
- 16,317
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
ARP M8 replacements are weaksauce. They’re ARP but they’re still M8.
I would just run stock shafts and go to 7/16” bolts. I’ve been on my 7/16”ARP bolts and stock shafts for 3.5 years now without issue? With a V8, 100:1 low gearing and I’m not easy on it.
last year on Rubicon I only had 3 bolts in one hub, I had cross threaded the other three putting it back together in a hurry after doing a trail fix the day before in Colorado, (broken locker crosspin), and then broke another locker crosspin the next day on the Rubicon, with only three ARB 7/16” bolts in the one side
I would just run stock shafts and go to 7/16” bolts. I’ve been on my 7/16”ARP bolts and stock shafts for 3.5 years now without issue? With a V8, 100:1 low gearing and I’m not easy on it.
last year on Rubicon I only had 3 bolts in one hub, I had cross threaded the other three putting it back together in a hurry after doing a trail fix the day before in Colorado, (broken locker crosspin), and then broke another locker crosspin the next day on the Rubicon, with only three ARB 7/16” bolts in the one side
- Thread starter
- #505
Pulled 2 good used rear hubs and took off my snapped hub. I removed all bearings, races, and studs and degreased and cleaned and is ready to go to cruisermatt for 7/16 and 6 dowel machine work.
Waiting for my RCV rear flanges to arrive this week for matching work as well.
Put my spare oem hub in it for now so I can drive around.
Waiting for my RCV rear flanges to arrive this week for matching work as well.
Put my spare oem hub in it for now so I can drive around.
You have a lot of issues. 
So strange people break the stock studs but I haven't yet. I broke my axle shaft with my 2f but the stock studs are fine. The other shaft is twisted, but no stud issues.
Those are ARPs studs, not stock.
Theirs a lot of factors. tire size, Vehicle weight, keeping them tight and how you wheel to name a few.
StaticTorque
SILVER Star
What do you torque your spacers down to? I heard something along the lines if you’re using stock lug they go to like 84 or something. The I also heard they go to 96 lbs
- Thread starter
- #510
90lbs same as wheels.
I got rid of my spacers as it was contacting my fenders. The racelines have enough
alia176
SILVER Star
He cooks like a mad man for therapy….I agree, he needs a LOT of therapy
StaticTorque
SILVER Star
My wheels go to 109lbs because they’re Steelies. Ah, I haven’t got to the part where you removed them. Trying to catch up
- Thread starter
- #514
Did I mention I'm crazy?
I changed the suspension out again and readded the 30mm spacers back into the rear only now. This is the 5th or 6th time this year I pulled the springs.
Front running 4in slee mediums and driver side 10mm trim packer.
Rear running 4in slee heavy progressive a. With 30mm spacers and 10mm driver side trim packer.
It's got a little stink bug when unloaded but will be perfectly level when loaded down with gear.
I did not like the way it sagged on my last trip during Rubithon loaded down.
Note.... Pic has 4"+40mm driver and just 4" passenger. To show the difference the spacers make.
I changed the suspension out again and readded the 30mm spacers back into the rear only now. This is the 5th or 6th time this year I pulled the springs.
Front running 4in slee mediums and driver side 10mm trim packer.
Rear running 4in slee heavy progressive a. With 30mm spacers and 10mm driver side trim packer.
It's got a little stink bug when unloaded but will be perfectly level when loaded down with gear.
I did not like the way it sagged on my last trip during Rubithon loaded down.
Note.... Pic has 4"+40mm driver and just 4" passenger. To show the difference the spacers make.
I love heavies and stink bug. It has its purpose like you say. Never understood the level er out trend. Once you load up, you are off balance and squat.
Last edited:
You are running the large size Delta bracket? Any issue with contact?
- Thread starter
- #517
Yes large 5+ delta. No issues when I was at 5in earlier this year with @baldilocks at Con.
Also no issues at Rubithon with only 4in and squat with the large delta bracket.
Bludozer
SILVER Star
Agree completely. The body lines of the 80 just work with a little stink bug too. Leveled trucks make no sense if you’re going to actually use them.
- Thread starter
- #519
Got my hubs back from cruisermatt. He drilled and tapped them out to 7/16 with 6 dowels. Will take a pic tomorrow. They look beautiful 
.
My RCV axle flanges need to be modded and I'm looking at machining options for those next. Not enough time till SierraTrek next week so I had to reinstall my spare stock hubs and just popped in the RCV 300M shafts for this trip.
I'll have it all sorted out by next trip with the 7/16 ARP hardware, hubs and RCV 300M shafts and flanges (drilled to 7/16).
.My RCV axle flanges need to be modded and I'm looking at machining options for those next. Not enough time till SierraTrek next week so I had to reinstall my spare stock hubs and just popped in the RCV 300M shafts for this trip.
I'll have it all sorted out by next trip with the 7/16 ARP hardware, hubs and RCV 300M shafts and flanges (drilled to 7/16).
