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How did you arrive at the position of the axle mount tabs? I’m thinking the link is best vertical at static ride height. The angle would actually increase the amount of force required to move the arm up or down.
- Thread starter
- #423
@baldilocks ring
Floor to bowfin rack = 85inch
Floor to bottom 4x4labs slider = 24in
Measured from center of truck
Update: did a 20min test drive and shes not as scary anymore with the Currie antirock. She drives reallly nice now.
Tiny by of pull to the right but thats because I didn't adjust my toe yet. All my death wobbles are gone. Hydro assist makes turning 39s like buttttter.
And the Kanati Mud Hogs are smooth. No beads and no weights on it just mounted them on my chewed up raceline beadlocks.
This cruiser kicks ass. I got a little more minor mods to install but otherwise its ready for wheeeeling season!!!!!
Floor to bowfin rack = 85inch
Floor to bottom 4x4labs slider = 24in
Measured from center of truck
Update: did a 20min test drive and shes not as scary anymore with the Currie antirock. She drives reallly nice now.
Tiny by of pull to the right but thats because I didn't adjust my toe yet. All my death wobbles are gone. Hydro assist makes turning 39s like buttttter.
And the Kanati Mud Hogs are smooth. No beads and no weights on it just mounted them on my chewed up raceline beadlocks.
This cruiser kicks ass. I got a little more minor mods to install but otherwise its ready for wheeeeling season!!!!!
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nukegoat
Should have bought a Jeep
How many spacers are you running lol
- Thread starter
- #425
All 12 of them. Need em wider than a semi
I also think they should be vertical at ride height, At full droop they could invert themselves.
During full articulation is that tab and bolt going to clear the Bump stop ?
Jason Andrews
Modaholic
I like the antirock setup! Yea, I agree with @Broski I would make sure to check it in few scenarios at full extension/stuff and extension/extension to make sure the links don't need to be adjusted longer. I've seen how the sway bar can get inverted when fully drooped on jeeps with this type of setup.
- Thread starter
- #429
Yea I'm going to my buddies shop in the next few days to use his forklift and flex it out. Hoping it works. Worst case is I plasma it off anf reweld the tabs
Edit. Quick hilift droop test. Still going to a fork lift test. But so far no inverted arm issues.
Edit2.... Now looking at the pics more closely. The Dobi yellow 4-5s are max droop. If I'm planning to keep the slee4+30mm I'm now thinking of buying Dobin yellow 6s. That should give me 1 more inch of down but less up travel. Hmmmmmm
Edit. Quick hilift droop test. Still going to a fork lift test. But so far no inverted arm issues.
Edit2.... Now looking at the pics more closely. The Dobi yellow 4-5s are max droop. If I'm planning to keep the slee4+30mm I'm now thinking of buying Dobin yellow 6s. That should give me 1 more inch of down but less up travel. Hmmmmmm
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Be prepared
That swaybar link looks tricky. Very close to flipping over backwards which could happen under rough movement.
Regarding the shocks, rather than get new ones, have you thought about simply relocating the lower mount a few inches up? Bypass the pin mount and use a standard shock bracket. Get more use out of your shock without having to go to a longer length.
Here's the shock mount relocation I did. Quick fix, and gets your shocks away from the rocks a bit.
forum.ih8mud.com
Builds - Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread
SHOCK RELOCATION In preparation for the rear swaybar I'll be starting soon, I decided to do a quick fix on the shock mounts. In the back I currently have 2.5" emulsion Radflos. They are a 10" shock. Due to the height of my rig, these shocks are too short. I quickly purchased these without doing...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #434
Cool. Universal shock mount. I think I have some ruffstuff ones in my pile of random crap box. I actually like that a lot. I was going to fab some shock armor but this brings it up out of the way. Learned something new today.Here's the shock mount relocation I did. Quick fix, and gets your shocks away from the rocks a bit.
Builds - Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread
SHOCK RELOCATION In preparation for the rear swaybar I'll be starting soon, I decided to do a quick fix on the shock mounts. In the back I currently have 2.5" emulsion Radflos. They are a 10" shock. Due to the height of my rig, these shocks are too short. I quickly purchased these without doing...
- Thread starter
- #435
I dont think the links would invert. But I'm not sure either. The axle tab was rotated forward towars the engine.Not back toward the tail
I'll fork lift flex it and drive the forklift backwards and dump it hard on the ground.
Worst case is I plasma it off the weld straight up. Will need to cut the link and shorten the threads again
- Thread starter
- #436
I'm tired of working on this thing everyday. Sigh.
Cut off the stupid axle mounts with the plasma. That was easy. Grinding it was not and sucked.
Repositioned them at 12 oclock and burned it in.
While I was down there. I welded some brackets so I can mount my drive shafts and axles and birfs. Will do that tomorrow.
Made some abs delete plugs out of my scrap that c3ane out of the frame holes I cut out for the Currie antirock. Put some fipg and bolted it up.
Cut off the stupid axle mounts with the plasma. That was easy. Grinding it was not and sucked.
Repositioned them at 12 oclock and burned it in.
While I was down there. I welded some brackets so I can mount my drive shafts and axles and birfs. Will do that tomorrow.
Made some abs delete plugs out of my scrap that c3ane out of the frame holes I cut out for the Currie antirock. Put some fipg and bolted it up.
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At the speed you have been working on this I thought you would never get tired.
I look at @pvhobo pictures and wondered why he welded the tab so close to the backing plates, then I removed the springs so I could cycle the axle sure enough during full articulation the lower heim joint well hit the bump stop if it not right next to the backing plate.
Hopefully the bolt on your is going to clear, It looks close
You may want to sleeve those rods as well
I look at @pvhobo pictures and wondered why he welded the tab so close to the backing plates, then I removed the springs so I could cycle the axle sure enough during full articulation the lower heim joint well hit the bump stop if it not right next to the backing plate.
Hopefully the bolt on your is going to clear, It looks close
You may want to sleeve those rods as well
Here’s another little trick I did to the weld on bracket to be able ti get to the backing plate bolt
Spyduh the install came out nice
Are you running wheel spacers?
Are you running wheel spacers?
