Builds Evolution of a Land Cruiser: My 80's build thread (4 Viewers)

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SHOCK RELOCATION

In preparation for the rear swaybar I'll be starting soon, I decided to do a quick fix on the shock mounts. In the back I currently have 2.5" emulsion Radflos. They are a 10" shock. Due to the height of my rig, these shocks are too short. I quickly purchased these without doing some homework and measuring beforehand.

I should clarify. 10" shocks provide plenty of travel for the rear suspension on the 80. The problem is the mounting point. At ride height, I have about 7" of shock shaft showing which means I only get about 3" of down travel. This is no good.

The easy solution would be to simply space them down with a steel block up top. But my lower mounts were trashed. I mean they were destroyed. If it weren't for the shock protectors I installed a while back my expensive Radflos would be in bad shape too. The factory mount hangs way too low and is the first thing come in contact with a rock. The mounts work fine for a stock height rig but once you get into the 3~6" lift range, you end up having to get too long of a shock to really take advantage of the suspension travel.

So - I redid the lower mounts. Started by removing the coils and checking suspension travel. With the shock unbolted, I put a tire back and stuffed it into the fenders. Here there is about 1" before the tire contacts the inside of the fenders (they have been previously cut as well).

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With the tire fully stuffed, this is where the shock should be. As you'll notice, if the shock were still on the stock mount I would have about 3" of shock shaft exposed. This means I'm not effectively using the travel in the shocks.

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I purchased some cheap shock mounts from Barnes. These worked out great. Here they are tacked in place. They are angled to match the angle of the shocks in the factory location. Best of all, it changes the orientation of the lower mount. I really hated that pin mount. Makes removal a huge pain in the ass as the heim bearing would seize to the pin. This should also better protect the shocks from rocks as it sits a good bit higher.

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Here is the other side at full droop. This is the suspension's 'natural' droop with no downward force applied to it. At this point my OME 5" Comp coils are also completely unseated. I will need to build a spring retainer and perhaps add a limit strap to avoid damaging the shocks at full extension. And again, if the shocks were in the stock mount they would be too short, limiting down travel by about 3".

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Lastly, I built some extended bumpstops because the ones I had weren't really doing anything. These measure about 7.5" total length and make contact the same time the built in bump stop on the Radflos start to compress.

Overall pretty quick and easy project. Waiting on some misalignment spacers for the shocks before I can wrap it all up. This is basically a temp fix for when I decided to redo the rear suspension. That will most likely involve moving the shocks to a different location all together.

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Nice job Jose, getting those shocks up will be awesome. Getting rid of the PITA pin mount is an added bonus i never thought about, on previous rigs i just removed, trimmed, and rewelded the factory mount back to the housing. It was free but those mounts from Barnes or Ruff Stuff are really reasonably priced!

Whats with the busted light bulb under the truck??
 
Very interesting build....
 
It will look perfect when he rolls it ... and he finally makes the decision to do the bob and the top chop!
You make a valid point and one I didn't want to post. :doh:
That rig is way too nice to roll. Gotta keep it within its limits.

Don't jinx jcardona!!
@scrowley I urge you to look up the definition of evolution. I suggest that there will come a point where change will be needed to be able to overcome the challenges that one faces.

I do want to chop it one of these days, but not because I roll it! Just my luck I roll it and the truck is beyond saving.
 
Nice job Jose, getting those shocks up will be awesome. Getting rid of the PITA pin mount is an added bonus i never thought about, on previous rigs i just removed, trimmed, and rewelded the factory mount back to the housing. It was free but those mounts from Barnes or Ruff Stuff are really reasonably priced!

Whats with the busted light bulb under the truck??

Got a little too excited when welding under the truck and knocked my light over. I need to invest in a good shop light.
 
Got a little too excited when welding under the truck and knocked my light over. I need to invest in a good shop light.
The makita 18v lattern is my buddy for welding
 
RUFFSTUFF SWAY BAR

This weekend I also FINALLY got started on the rear sway bar. This thing started a year ago when I first ordered the shaft from RuffStuff. With the shocks sitting where they should be now I started to tack stuff in place and do some very early test fitting. Still have lots of work to do. Panhard frame bracket interfered with the arm's travel so rather than cut and clearance the stock bracket I cut it off. The plan is to replace it with an aftermarket inside-frame panhard bracket. Once the panhard is mounted again I can really start to cycle the suspension and check for clearance, and more importantly, tire clearance. But so far it looks like it should work!

Here is the preliminary placement at estimated ride height:

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Mounts slightly behind the axle using 1.5" shock brackets.

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Full droop:

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Full stuff:

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To be continued...
 
Will the tire rub the sway bar at tuck? Looks nice....

Still TBD once I get the panhard mounted again. I don't think so however because at full stuff the arm is close to parallel with the frame. If it were any higher than I think I would have an issue. Worst case scenario I'll have to get some wider wheel spacers.
 
PROJECT SWAY BAR OVERKILL

For those following along on this crazy project, I am pretty much done with all the test fitting and should be ready for final welding. As mentioned above, the frame-side panhard bracket stuck out too much and interfered with the arm's movement. Rather than try to modify the stock bracket I thought it would be easier to cut it off and weld in a new bracket.

Used an inside-frame mount which worked perfect and leaves plenty of room for the sway bar arm. You may notice I had to cut off the bump stops I built. Because the sway bar links have heims that allow for a bit of articulation, they would get caught on the bump stops when coming up from full droop. I think I will build some new bump stops inside the coil bucket.

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I also ended up building a new panhard because I needed a shorter version due to the relocated mount.

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With the panhard in place I was able to start cycling the suspension and checking tire clearance. This had to be done with one side of the sway bar disconnected because there is no way you can do this with the arms connected! As you can see below, this is full up-travel and the shock is fully compressed. The tire fully clears the the arm. The heim bolt just barely rubs the frame at full stuff. Space is tight, but it works!

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Here is a view from behind the axle.

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Plenty of room in between the tire and the tip of the arm.

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And here is how it will look at estimated ride height. Excited to get this thing wrapped up so I could take it for a test drive. Really hope it improves road handling at high speeds without restricting flex too much.


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Are you thinking of using quick disconnects on the links or will you be running the ASB full time?
 
Nice work Jose. Just primer all the tight spots and go on a test drive. Then check for rubbing or interference on any of the brackets or links.
That sh*ts tight! but may just clear:clap:
 
Are you thinking of using quick disconnects on the links or will you be running the ASB full time?

Not to speak for Jose, but these type or swaybars are designed and meant for off-roading and rock crawling. Currie, the first to put out and market this type of antisway bar says its designed to stay connected at all times. Its a happy medium between a flex limiting stock sway bar and the loose and wild feel of no sway bar.

Jose, have you thought about getting a couple high grade Socket Button Head bolts for the bar ends? Should be lower profile and less likely to catch during those high flex times.
 
Are you thinking of using quick disconnects on the links or will you be running the ASB full time?

Not to speak for Jose, but these type or swaybars are designed and meant for off-roading and rock crawling. Currie, the first to put out and market this type of antisway bar says its designed to stay connected at all times. Its a happy medium between a flex limiting stock sway bar and the loose and wild feel of no sway bar.

Jose, have you thought about getting a couple high grade Socket Button Head bolts for the bar ends? Should be lower profile and less likely to catch during those high flex times.

^ That is correct. This idea with these splined sway bar connected to a torsion spring is that they stay connected while offroad. They serve to control body movement while still allowing the axle to move. It will limit some flex obviously, but the idea is they provide a 'balanced' flex while not giving the floppy jalopy feel of no sway bars.

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Nice work Jose. Just primer all the tight spots and go on a test drive. Then check for rubbing or interference on any of the brackets or links.
That sh*ts tight! but may just clear:clap:

At ride height it should be no issue. The clearance only gets tight at full stuff. And realistically, I don't see the rear suspension fully compressing because the coils are so stiff relative to the front 3 link. I need access to a forklift so I could test it out!
 
Not to speak for Jose, but these type or swaybars are designed and meant for off-roading and rock crawling. Currie, the first to put out and market this type of antisway bar says its designed to stay connected at all times. Its a happy medium between a flex limiting stock sway bar and the loose and wild feel of no sway.

Currie definitely did not invent the 3 piece swaybar - bar diameter, length, and arm length may make this stiffer or softer than the oe bar.

I love the implementation. Any shots of the whole bar spanning the frame?
 

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