So how fat is it?
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- Thread starter
- #462
you didnt see the scale pic in the last post? It was 7440 with 2 of us and whatever we had left in the truck.
Thanks for cooking such good eats on the trail. Wow, your junk weighs a lot.
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- #464
Bludozer
SILVER Star
Hey, hey. Whatever happened out there between you two should stay out there. This is a family site.thanks for noticing my junk
It’s not like that.... however, he found out that bigger tires are not always the answer.
Just incase you forget your shades, there is a dimmer switch on the dash - it is easy to forget it is there - not sure it works with LEDs though.Of course. You're driving a cruiser so you got to have your shades on 100% of the time. You must have not read the owners manual. How else you going to see the cluster if it's dim with 30 year old bulbs!
Bludozer
SILVER Star
Ok that’s funny. Referencing good eats and laughter now encourages images of boy bands and slightness of masculinity? I think I like you.
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- #470
Bigger tires are always the answer. When have you ever heard anyone say smaller is better?
Go big or go home.
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- #471
Haha. Yes dimmer works with Leds. I do not wear shades at night like an idiot
Great posts & looks like you learned a lot & going the right direction of lower COG.
39s on a 4" lift will be interesting with how much up travel you will end up with.
I believe Broski is at 3.5" lift now.
Did all the previous fender trimming work out or is there more to do?
What bump stops do you have now?
39s on a 4" lift will be interesting with how much up travel you will end up with.
I believe Broski is at 3.5" lift now.
Did all the previous fender trimming work out or is there more to do?
What bump stops do you have now?
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- #473
Going down to 4 will reduce my up travel and I might have to change my bump stops again. For now I'm using factory bumps + 2 sets of 2" bump stop blocks + an extra half inch on aluminum i put in between to give me a 5" up travel. I had an extra 2" block from my Turbo80 that went off when the Timbren's went on that.
All the trimming has worked great so far. I have not rubbed the rear wells at all during the con. I only rubbed front passenger once and it was the front side of the well next to the bumper. Will trim that down in the next 2 weeks.
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You shouldn’t have to change the bump stop extensions. You well lose up travel.
so you are running 41/2” of bump stop extensions?
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- #475
yes running 4.5" right now to limit up and hitting the rear fender wells. going to try 4" or go back to 2.5"
If your'e not rubbing then you have lowered to much, a little rub in the rear is okay.
Take out the .5" shim... that will give 1" up at the tire articulated.
Just for reverence my 38s with minimal trim is equivalent to 3.5" lowered in the rear.
Broski's rear cut & tubed lowered his bumps only 2.5"
Edit later: I went back seen you have the 2" extended front inside coil spacer.
Take out the .5" shim... that will give 1" up at the tire articulated.
Just for reverence my 38s with minimal trim is equivalent to 3.5" lowered in the rear.
Broski's rear cut & tubed lowered his bumps only 2.5"
Edit later: I went back seen you have the 2" extended front inside coil spacer.
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- Thread starter
- #477
Sumo under drive and brand new tcase rebuild kit. These bearings are stupid expensive.
Going into my lowrange and PT tcase. Found out that whoever did the tcase grinding. Did not take nearly enough material off the housing. I took way more off and now it spins freely. I thought it was the bearings making the weird noise on release of throttle so I bought all new bearings. Turns out it was the gear contacting the case. These bearings are probably 250k+ and look and feel like crap anyway.
Going into my lowrange and PT tcase. Found out that whoever did the tcase grinding. Did not take nearly enough material off the housing. I took way more off and now it spins freely. I thought it was the bearings making the weird noise on release of throttle so I bought all new bearings. Turns out it was the gear contacting the case. These bearings are probably 250k+ and look and feel like crap anyway.
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- #480
Day 2 tcase cause I needed to borrow a different puller from AutoZone. It didnt work out of the box. So I took apart my HF puller arms and used the longer arms with the skinny AutoZone body. I was able to pull the rear gear from the output shaft housing.
Always!!!! Keep old bearings and races. You never know when you need to stack up a crazy jenga puzzle to press s*** in!
Everythings back together and waiting for the red FIPG to setup so I can stab it in tomorrow.
Now I have brand new Sumo Under Drive gears, fully rebuilt bearings and seals ($500 poorer), Marlin Low Range Gears and Marlin Part time spool.
Always!!!! Keep old bearings and races. You never know when you need to stack up a crazy jenga puzzle to press s*** in!
Everythings back together and waiting for the red FIPG to setup so I can stab it in tomorrow.
Now I have brand new Sumo Under Drive gears, fully rebuilt bearings and seals ($500 poorer), Marlin Low Range Gears and Marlin Part time spool.
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