some h55f and split case tech (1 Viewer)

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Mohawk, both t-cases will need to be torn down. The front half of case contains the vacuum shift parts, so use the frt of the BJ case. I like to keep split case halves matched as a set, so I would use the entire BJ case, mixing and matching shafts, gears and shift collars to get the least worn parts. Be aware that the idler shaft & gear tooth pitch changes in ~1985, so it's not possible to mix gears in that case.

Both trannies will need partially torn down to do the input shaft swap, as detailed in this thread & others. Be aware of the input shaft bearing size increase in MY1986, which can make it difficult to mix & match the 2 trannies.

What's needed to do a good job: FSM, rebuild kit for tranny & t-case, 3,4,5 sync rings. Once everything is torn down, it will be obvious what else may be needed to do a proper rebuild: tranny output shaft, t-case output shaft, selective fit snap rings & shims...
 
Thanks mate......the more i research the more it does my head in ...my cousin has 30 years in gear box shops so ill tear it too bits too make it lighter and he can diagnose any issues and put it together if i ever need it... i know my limits and its not worth getting it wrong i think.
 
Supposedly

Then do this instead-
image.jpeg
 
Yeah that is my next step. Worst part is i was told 2 weeks ago that it was active and on order.

Looks like you used the arb kit, I have then on my axles too.
 
If the front input shaft has play, found by grabbing the driveshaft, and feeling movement at the companion flange AND there is noise when in 4wd but none under load in 4wd, could this be caused by improper shimming? I’m hoping I don’t have to pull everything again if that is what can be the cause. Any insights appreciated!
 
This part - circled in yellow - has play. I’m pretty sure I rebuilt the case during my H55 install but I can’t totally remember, head injury moment. Anyway, I’m pretty sure I didn’t re-shim anything. The shaft that attaches to the rear driveshaft is tight. How screwed am I?

ACB1E696-948F-46F2-ACA3-2596010A8C81.jpeg
 
Thanks Jim, I’ll pull the driveshaft off and check that the bolt is still torqued down - this isn’t the side with the shim and the shim doesn’t have anything to do with the tightness, right? I need to check to see if I replaced that bearing and race also.
 
Thanks again Jim.
 
The snap ring could have popped out of the groove .... or the bearing could have spun in the case. I’ve seen both scenarios. Could certainly be a bad bearing as well but it would make quite a bit of noise in 4WD.
 
Did a new bearing solve your problem?


I haven’t pulled it yet. Working on fixing my jeep’s Tcase and trying to rebuild my confidence before removing and tackling the cruiser t-case.
 
And it does make a lot of grinding noise is 4wd. Only done it twice and it was terrible. The seal is leaking now too. I should be pulling it soon I hope
 
In that case, I’d be willing to bet that your front output bearing is wasted.
If that’s the case, then you’ll have to pull the rear case half ( at the very least ) to get access.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 
@orangefj45 can I just pull the transfer case off the tranny? Now I’m worried I have to pull the case and tranny. I don’t want to go thru reinstalling all that again. What a pain. I guess I should start researching it.
 
You can remove the Tcase ( piece by piece ) without removing the trans from the vehicle.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 
@orangefj45 can I just pull the transfer case off the tranny? Now I’m worried I have to pull the case and tranny. I don’t want to go thru reinstalling all that again. What a pain. I guess I should start researching it.
Page 1 of this thread would be a good place to start
 

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