some h55f and split case tech (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I've used that non-chamfered slider in my recent rebuild. It came from a 1992 hjz77 series transfer. It is obvious for toyota to leave that machining step when used correctly as there is no need for chamfering as it slides only to that chamfered edge. Georg is right if used wrong it will pita to select gears.

Further to contribute to this great thread. I've seen many people say that F/H series input shafts are interchangeable. Not in my case, as my input shaft from hj60 H55 was different from fj60 H42 input shaft. H55 had 26 teeth and H42 had 24 teeth so no way to interchange these shafts. Here is a pic of two shafts.
IMG_20160131_152711_0.jpg
 
Nobody (knowledgeable) says H42 and H55/41 shafts are interchangeable. As you rightly observed, the tooth count is quite different.

The H41 and H55 input gears are interchangeable, especially if it is similar years, i.e. 81-85 H41 & H55.
 
The input splines are identical, but not tooth count.

;)

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 
Can add to the discovery of the non chamfered pto gear, in my 81 hj60 it was a constant drive.
In the 87 case that I now rebuilt it was chamfered since the pto case is not a constant drive.

I seem to remember I hacked up the no chamfer gear to make the spacer for my diy McNamara gear.
 
OrangeFJ45

Is there a gasket that goes between the main case and 5th gear case?
I have a h55f that wont shift into 5th but 1 thru 4 and reverse work proper.

Seems as though the case needs to move out a wee bit via a gasket....

Just a working theory as when the 5th gear case worked loose while attempting to shift into 5th, it actually began to shift into 5th somewhat.

Bought the h55f used. Whoever put it back together in CA neglected to install a gasket between the main case and 5th gear case...

Could that be why it wont shift into 5th?
 
Roma is correct.

Is the transmission still in the vehicle?

What happens when you attempt to shift into 5th?
Any noise?
Does it act like it's in neutral?
Any leaks?

Might be a linkage issue.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 
Its of the rig. I swapped it with a known good h55f on saturday.

No grinding no noise. At times it felt as though it was in gear but nothing there...

Mostly though it just wont shift in. Took it to a couple gear guys this AM and none of them see anything visibly wrong.

So strange. The tranny worked perfectly as a 4 speed for several months. But id like to get the 5th gear working before i put it in my fj60 to bj60 conversion..

Thanks for your reply.
 
Take off the top cover of the transmission tunnel and look at the linkage as it comes out of the top cover and goes over to the 5th gear shift fork on top of the transmission. Try to shift into 5th and see if the rod moves rearward as we expect, or if something else happens. Easiest way to move forward.
 
@FJ40Jim when you swap input shafts into a new H55F are you reusing the bearing from the new transmission or do you order another bearing to press on the input getting swapped in?
 
I would use the bearing from the new H55F. There's no need to buy another new bearing.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 
I would use the bearing from the new H55F. There's no need to buy another new bearing.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

Thanks George!
 
I'm rebuilding an FJ62 transfer case and I'm converting it from vacuum to manual shift. I found a 34 mm transfer case rebuild kit in my parts stash. I've searched for the differences between the 34 mm and 38 mm kits. Besides the different size idler, updated rear bearing retainer seal and roller bearings, what am I overlooking/missing? Am I better off ordering a 38 mm kit or does it make sense to order the missing pieces separately?

62 transfer case parts 1.jpg


62 transfer case parts 2.jpg


Update: The following parts are missing from a 34 mm rebuild kit if you're using an earlier kit to rebuild a 38 mm transfer case.

36225-60050 x 1 SHAFT (38 mm Idler)
90364-38012 x 2 BEARING (38 mm Idler bearing)
36222-60021 x 2 WASHER, TRANSFER (38 mm Idler thrust washer)
90301-34004 x 2 GASKET (38 mm Idler O-ring)

For transfer cases out of a 62, there are two roller bearings required instead of the low and high speed gear bushings of a transfer case behind a manual transmission:

90364-40001 x 2 BEARING (Automatic Transmission Low Gear Bearing & High Gear Bearing)

w3wrMqLQQXOGn3XH03gUng_thumb_6771.jpg
 
Last edited:
I'm not sure you'll save any money by ordering the necessary bearings separately. The bearings are the expensive part.

Either way, I don't think you're missing anything. Should work.
 
and one more tidbit about the h55fs. even when i buy a new trans from the dealer, i remove the 5th gear extension housing and apply some loctite "formula 518" to the gasket. i've seen a few of these transmissions leak between the main case and extension housing and i've heard a few people complain about it. doing this only takes 20-30 minutes ( if you get interrupted by customer phone calls :lol: ) and it's well worth the effort! you have to remove the 5th gear detent screw, spring and check ball but none of the linkage or levers. pretty simple really.

here's a crummy pic. sorry, all of these were taken with an iphone.....

hth

georg @ valley hybrids
I'm getting ready to do this on my new H55f - both sides of the gasket? or does the other side of the gasket already have sealant applied at the factory to hold the gasket in place?
 
For the one I bought, the extension housing gasket didn't have any sealant... looked new unused like the transmission itself. I used Permatex Ultra Grey on both sides of the gasket.
 
Last edited:
I use Loctite "gasket maker" also known as "formula 518" on both sides of all gaskets, including the 5th gear extension housing gasket.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom