some h55f and split case tech (3 Viewers)

[4Cruisers]

I use Loctite "gasket maker" also known as "formula 518" on both sides of all gaskets, including the 5th gear extension housing gasket.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

I bought some Loctite 518 after reading your post last year, but I'm just now getting to the transfer case installation. I bought all of the parts to convert my case to manual front drive engagement from Cdan before he retired. Your new video will help me a lot, I'll view it later tonight.

 

[4Cruisers]

Just finished watching the video, great job. I especially liked the tips for the use of assembly lube and FIPG, the proper orientation of parts during assembly, and the nuances of the sequence of installation. I'll be doing a few things differently because I'm converting my FJ62 vacuum front drive engagement to manual for my '86 FJ60 project and the split case for my '71 FJ40 upgrade has the parking brake drum. Most of this applies and will be a big help. Thanks for putting this together, Georg. Compliments to the cameraman as well, my wife and I enjoyed wheeling with him earlier this month at the Solid Axle Summit.

 

[4Cruisers]

In the process of cleaning, prepping, and organizing the old and new parts to install my modified FJ62 transfer case on my new H55f I noticed that there are two part numbers for the six bolts at the PTO cover. The six bolts I removed last year when removing the case from the donor vehicle were bagged up in one bag. But the online parts catalog I reference showed (starting in 10/82) four 91651-60830 and two 90119-08353 (earlier split cases had five of one and one of the other). The bolts look identical (including head markings) except for one thing - two definitely have visible residue from factory applied thread sealant, the others don't. That makes sense, because the 10/82 and later cases have two threaded through holes and four blind holes. Probably common knowledge here on MUD, but I thought I'd add this trivia anyways.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

Sounds like @4Cruisers & I are about the same places in our rebuilding. I was wondering about the chamfered and non chamfered PTO gear mentioned earlier:

View attachment 1349501 Ok. Found something today that I've never seen before ( and I've looked at a few of these ...... ).
I'm building an NV4500-split case combo for a customer right now. Doing a conversion on his LS powered FJ60.
The factory PTO gear in this Tcase doesn't have chamfered teeth. So if this was to be used, it'd be pretty tough to engage. Not sure what the thinking behind this is.

Anyways, here's a pic showing both styles.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

I just pulled this out to look at how the gears will mesh with my PTO gearbox and noticed there's a chamfered gear. Does this explain why some PTO output gears are non chamfered?

I think I had an earlier PTO gearbox without chamfered gears and that would call for the chamfered PTO output gear.

I just installed my PTO gearbox and wanted to update this post with some part numbers:

 

[4Cruisers]

I'm finishing up the assembly of my '89 FJ62 split transfer case onto my new H55f and have an easy question. I'm using all three switches on the transfer case; L4 position, neutral position, and 4WD indicator. Which of these use a crush washer? Which use sealant?

 

[orangefj45]

All 3 of the switches use crush washers. Two of them are the same size as the drain & fill plugs but one is smaller.
I prefer to use a small amount of sealant on the threads in conjunction with the aluminum crush washers.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[4Cruisers]

Thanks, Georg! I'm using a gasket kit for a late FJ60 transmission/transfer case, so it has enough of the larger crush washers (the new H55f came with washers for the drain and fill plugs, so I have extras). I'll check to see if I have a smaller crush washer floating around here somewhere, if not I'll see if I can find a generic washer when I'm down in Albuquerque tomorrow.

BTW, I got the rear output bearing preload smack dab in the middle of the FSM range for a used bearing, and it feels "right". I added a 0.005" shim to the 0.024" shim I salvaged from my late '84 parking brake split case. Thanks for sending the shim pack out before you hit the road last week.

 

[4Cruisers]

I found a suitable aluminum crush washer at the local NAPA this afternoon ($0.79), it took just a few minutes of drilling/filing to open up the ID a bit so it would fit. Finished installing the three switches and did a function test, all are working. I had already added indicator lights for "Neutral" and "Low" in the dash at the former location of the 4WD pushbutton switch, so I'll have indicators for all three in one convenient location. The H55f and transfer case combination is now ready to install into the '86 FJ60.



Green is for "Neutral" and red is for "Low", at some point I'll stencil in an "N" and an "L" next to the lights.

 

[Living in the Past]

For the record, while we were swapping out Alberto's 3B to HZ input shaft, we realized (a little too late) that it is not necessary to pull the mainshaft rear bearing if the only work being done is swapping the input gear. It is only necessary to pull F & R countershaft bearing, then pull input bearing & input gear. Sorry Alberto!

Is this really true? Thought I read a thread lately where you basically needed to tear the whole transmission down to change the input shaft. Still searching for the correct input shaft but have a H41 with the correct shaft. Don't really want to tear the H41 just to pull the shaft. Not sure what I plan on doing with the H41. If I pull it apart wouldn't want to put it together without rebuilding it. Not sure the value of a H41 compared the the cost of a rebuild kit. Not sure it's worth the effort.

 

[4Cruisers]

I ran into what turns out to be a minor issue while identifying all of the needed parts to install a late '84 split transfer case with drum parking brake (from a BJ45) onto an '84 H41 (from an HJ47). I thought I'd share what I learned even though it's probably common knowledge to many here on MUD.

In doing some last-minute research I ran across a post in another thread that indicated that an (apparently) incorrect rear output bearing retainer seal was included in his transfer case rebuild kit. The poster was rebuilding a drum parking brake split case and indicated that the lip on the seal in the kit was too big in diameter to allow the parking brake backing plate to be installed. It turns out that a different seal is required. I searched several online parts catalogs for non-US models with split transfer cases and found two different seal part numbers - 90311-48003 for vehicles with parking brakes on the rear axle (that's what was in his kit) and 90311-45001 for vehicles with parking brakes on the transfer case. So I looked up the vehicle applications for 90311-45001 and discovered that it's the same seal used with one-piece transfer cases. This makes sense seeing as how the parking brake internal hardware for the split cases is the same as the hardware for the one-piece cases. So now I know the correct seal to order.

 

[Living in the Past]

I found a suitable aluminum crush washer at the local NAPA this afternoon ($0.79), it took just a few minutes of drilling/filing to open up the ID a bit so it would fit. Finished installing the three switches and did a function test, all are working. I had already added indicator lights for "Neutral" and "Low" in the dash at the former location of the 4WD pushbutton switch, so I'll have indicators for all three in one convenient location. The H55f and transfer case combination is now ready to install into the '86 FJ60.



Green is for "Neutral" and red is for "Low", at some point I'll stencil in an "N" and an "L" next to the lights.

View attachment 1533607

Your 86 FJ60 has this large transfer bezel mounted on the dash? I know my FJ62 has opening in the dash for lights for the cable lockers. Not sure the 60 series had those two open holes?

 

[4Cruisers]

Your 86 FJ60 has this large transfer bezel mounted on the dash? I know my FJ62 has opening in the dash for lights for the cable lockers. Not sure the 60 series had those two open holes?

I swapped over almost everything from the '89 FJ62 donor vehicle to the '86 FJ60 project vehicle - 3FE, split transfer case, axles, power steering gearbox, wiring harness, fuel system, brake system, dash, power windows/door locks/mirrors, rear seat headrests, rear seatbelts, rear hatch (for power door lock), etc. The '86 has a rust-free body and frame so it was worth all of the effort. I've been working on it for well over a year and a half so far. Now that I've installed the 3FE and finished mating the split transfer case to the H55f the only major item remaining for me to do is to clean and paint the front axle housing and rebuild the knuckles. The custom exhaust shop has to fabricate a section from the exhaust manifolds to the FJ60 catalytic converter and the upholstery shop has to install the new carpet.

 

[orangefj45]

I ran into what turns out to be a minor issue while identifying all of the needed parts to install a late '84 split transfer case with drum parking brake (from a BJ45) onto an '84 H41 (from an HJ47). I thought I'd share what I learned even though it's probably common knowledge to many here on MUD.

In doing some last-minute research I ran across a post in another thread that indicated that an (apparently) incorrect rear output bearing retainer seal was included in his transfer case rebuild kit. The poster was rebuilding a drum parking brake split case and indicated that the lip on the seal in the kit was too big in diameter to allow the parking brake backing plate to be installed. It turns out that a different seal is required. I searched several online parts catalogs for non-US models with split transfer cases and found two different seal part numbers - 90311-48003 for vehicles with parking brakes on the rear axle (that's what was in his kit) and 90311-45001 for vehicles with parking brakes on the transfer case. So I looked up the vehicle applications for 90311-45001 and discovered that it's the same seal used with one-piece transfer cases. This makes sense seeing as how the parking brake internal hardware for the split cases is the same as the hardware for the one-piece cases. So now I know the correct seal to order.

The ebrake (cast steel) rear bearing retainer uses the same rear seal as the early one-piece Tcase.
There's also a change in the rear retainer and seal in roughly 2008.
I can post part numbers later.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[Living in the Past]

Is this really true? Thought I read a thread lately where you basically needed to tear the whole transmission down to change the input shaft. Still searching for the correct input shaft but have a H41 with the correct shaft. Don't really want to tear the H41 just to pull the shaft. Not sure what I plan on doing with the H41. If I pull it apart wouldn't want to put it together without rebuilding it. Not sure the value of a H41 compared the the cost of a rebuild kit. Not sure it's worth the effort.

Bump

Georg @orangefj45

Curious can just the front bearing and input shaft be removed or does the whole thing need to be torn apart. Trying to figure out my options. If I could pull just the input shaft from the H41 might be a option of dropping it off on my return from Washington state. But also depends on how the H55F looks like inside. As I remember you do not have the correct F/H input shaft for the early H55F? Still have the PTO gear I got from you. Assume since it has a cover it didn't a PTO attached or PTO gear in the transfer case. Since have a couple split case PTOs going to run a PTO winch.

 

[SuperDuperCruizer]

I replaced the breather with a pipe. I was able to rotate the breather with a vice grip to work it free.

I used a plastic hammer to install the new part.

 

[orangefj45]

Ps: The

Bump

Georg @orangefj45

Curious can just the front bearing and input shaft be removed or does the whole thing need to be torn apart. Trying to figure out my options. If I could pull just the input shaft from the H41 might be a option of dropping it off on my return from Washington state. But also depends on how the H55F looks like inside. As I remember you do not have the correct F/H input shaft for the early H55F? Still have the PTO gear I got from you. Assume since it has a cover it didn't a PTO attached or PTO gear in the transfer case. Since have a couple split case PTOs going to run a PTO winch.

You have to remove the transfer case to gain access the the back of the trans. Both counter shaft bearings have to be removed in order to "lower" the countershaft. Then the input gear can be removed.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[Living in the Past]

Ps: The


You have to remove the transfer case to gain access the the back of the trans. Both counter shaft bearings have to be removed in order to "lower" the countershaft. Then the input gear can be removed.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

Thanks Georg, was going by a post in this thread a couple pages back. Remember a thread a month or so ago on the subject. Had a few links to threads on how to tear the transmission down. Have all my FSM at our other home. With the front retainer off does the input bearing come out the front?

 

[orangefj45]

The front retainer has to be removed. Then the input gear can be removed with the input bearing.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids & Cruiser Brothers

 

[SMG]

Georg,

Great video!

This will help tremendously when I go to install my Split-case to my NV4500 via Advance Adapter.

Thanks again!
Steve

 

[mohawk]

Ive got an h55f in my NZ new 1989 bj75..... ive bought an h55 out of a 60 that has manual h4lever and want too convert too vaccume the same as i have now
I will also need too swap the h input shaft for a b input shaft..
Can anyone give me an idea where too start or basically whats needed ?
Thanks SP