Series 80 engine rebuild or swap options? (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Sep 7, 2023
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Texas
I am looking at a Series 80 with ~250K miles on it. It doesn't have a blown head gasket but, if I go to that much trouble, I'm thinking a fresher engine would be a good idea.

I spoke with Blane's Engine in Dallas, TX and they said they CANNOT get parts to rebuild the engine. I am wondering about a low mileage pull but, LKQ wasn't any help.

I am a newbie and a pretty 'green' so, what am I missing? Is a fresh Toyota motor a reasonable option today? Or, am I looking at a repower with a different motor and transmission when the time comes?

TIA.
Sid
 
I am looking at a Series 80 with ~250K miles on it. It doesn't have a blown head gasket but, if I go to that much trouble, I'm thinking a fresher engine would be a good idea.

I spoke with Blane's Engine in Dallas, TX and they said they CANNOT get parts to rebuild the engine. I am wondering about a low mileage pull but, LKQ wasn't any help.

I am a newbie and a pretty 'green' so, what am I missing? Is a fresh Toyota motor a reasonable option today? Or, am I looking at a repower with a different motor and transmission when the time comes?

TIA.
Sid
The bottom ends last forever on these as long as they're properly maintained. So if you do end up needing a head gasket, rebuilding the cylinder head is about all you'll need to do. Of course checking the bottom end at that time is a good idea, but they usually last a long time. Mine has 280k on it and other that the valve seals (smokes on start up if it hasn't been started in a while), she works great.

As far as swaps go... there's a dedicated swap thread for our rigs. LS swaps are the most popular due to their availability and price, but Cummins swaps are fairly popular as well. LS swaps can be super cheap if you get a running donor vehicle for under $1000, take what you need and then part out the rest. Cruisermatt has some engine mount brackets for the LS and then you'll need the t-case adapter from Marks 4WD. If you have money to burn, a Gen V LS swap is nice and there's a kit from Torfab that is bolt-in. It even comes with a shifter linkage adapter.

It really comes down to how much you want to spend and if you want to stick with the stock drivetrain or not. Personally, I'll be going LS eventually. No idea which LS, but I'd LOVE to have a Gen V setup since they get good mpg and their torque curves are amazing. They're just kind of expensive.
 
The bottom ends last forever on these as long as they're properly maintained. So if you do end up needing a head gasket, rebuilding the cylinder head is about all you'll need to do. Of course checking the bottom end at that time is a good idea, but they usually last a long time. Mine has 280k on it and other that the valve seals (smokes on start up if it hasn't been started in a while), she works great.

As far as swaps go... there's a dedicated swap thread for our rigs. LS swaps are the most popular due to their availability and price, but Cummins swaps are fairly popular as well. LS swaps can be super cheap if you get a running donor vehicle for under $1000, take what you need and then part out the rest. Cruisermatt has some engine mount brackets for the LS and then you'll need the t-case adapter from Marks 4WD. If you have money to burn, a Gen V LS swap is nice and there's a kit from Torfab that is bolt-in. It even comes with a shifter linkage adapter.

It really comes down to how much you want to spend and if you want to stick with the stock drivetrain or not. Personally, I'll be going LS eventually. No idea which LS, but I'd LOVE to have a Gen V setup since they get good mpg and their torque curves are amazing. They're just kind of expensive.
Forever!!!! Wishful thinking😂
 
For a data point, I just happened to have partsouq.com open and they list a short block right at $5000, but not available. Got no idea what shipping from Dubai on 144 kilos would be. I recall someone saying US price is around $6000, but not sure how accurate that would be. Our newly acquired LX450 had a new engine (presumably a short block, but maybe complete?) and transmission dropped into it when it resided in St. George, Utah in 2015. The then-owner supplied the engine and trans, with labor costing about $1200 and additional parts adding another $2000. Safe to say, I'd guess you'd need to add at least 50% to those numbers if done today.
 
That’s not Correct you can buy new pistons, rings, bearings and parts for the head from toyota. I sell rebuilt motors also if you need one. What makes you think you need to rebuild?

I don't specifically need a rebuild today but, most of my vehicles at a "quarter million miles" generally need major motor work even with great preventative maintenance from myself.

Buying a ~30-year-old vehicle with an unknown service history for those decades makes me a bit cautious about long-term support for major powertrain components. Ask a Dodge owner why this is important (speaking from personal experience with EFE fuel injection on Dodge diesel pickups, close contact with two different Dodge vehicles that were prematurely scrapped due to an inability to repair or replace the transmission; one was a 2018 model and the other 2019).
 
I don't specifically need a rebuild today but, most of my vehicles at a "quarter million miles" generally need major motor work even with great preventative maintenance from myself.

Buying a ~30-year-old vehicle with an unknown service history for those decades makes me a bit cautious about long-term support for major powertrain components. Ask a Dodge owner why this is important (speaking from personal experience with EFE fuel injection on Dodge diesel pickups, close contact with two different Dodge vehicles that were prematurely scrapped due to an inability to repair or replace the transmission; one was a 2018 model and the other 2019).
I heard enough when I heard Dodge! These Toyota 1fz fe motors are extremely resilient and if properly maintained will go for a long time I have one with 470k and no bottom end work has ever been done. Obviously this is specific to the vehicle and owner care. As stated above lots of guys just replacing head gasket and running it with success. If you are pulling an engine then inspecting the bottom end is a no brainer and going from there. 250k is just a drop in the water with these motors.
 
I don't specifically need a rebuild today but, most of my vehicles at a "quarter million miles" generally need major motor work even with great preventative maintenance from myself.

Buying a ~30-year-old vehicle with an unknown service history for those decades makes me a bit cautious about long-term support for major powertrain components. Ask a Dodge owner why this is important (speaking from personal experience with EFE fuel injection on Dodge diesel pickups, close contact with two different Dodge vehicles that were prematurely scrapped due to an inability to repair or replace the transmission; one was a 2018 model and the other 2019).
I have 354K miles on my 96.

The HG was replaced properly at 145K.

This is my DD. The bottom end has never been touched.
 
I have 354K miles on my 96.

The HG was replaced properly at 145K.

This is my DD. The bottom end has never been touched.
My bottom end has been touched way too many times. That's what happens when you grow up Mormon in utah 🤣 🤣 🤣
 
far from a 90's Dodge are 80 series so I wouldn't rely on that past experience at all here

We have owned several Toyota cars that made it past a quarter million miles and yes, they are generally a lot better than a similar Dodge option. However, in more recent times, Toyota Q/C and Engineering are less than in times past IMHO.

Any vehicle ~30 years old and >200,000 miles or more though is subject to significant failures for any of a myriad of possible causes IMHO. Then there are the ones that are >400,000 miles with no major powertrain issues.

To be honest, though, Dodge and Chevy have been my worst personal experiences with significant issues at high mileage with good overall preventative maintenance.
 
We have owned several Toyota cars that made it past a quarter million miles and yes, they are generally a lot better than a similar Dodge option. However, in more recent times, Toyota Q/C and Engineering are less than in times past IMHO.

Any vehicle ~30 years old and >200,000 miles or more though is subject to significant failures for any of a myriad of possible causes IMHO. Then there are the ones that are >400,000 miles with no major powertrain issues.

To be honest, though, Dodge and Chevy have been my worst personal experiences with significant issues at high mileage with good overall preventative maintenance.
This is true, but if you do get the truck and start working on it you will see, the were way over built, slow yes but really well built.

Mine need a head gasket at 250k but only needed valve seals no valve job or bottom end work was necessary.
Virtually no lip at the top of the cylinders & factory hatch marking were all present.
That was in 2015 still running strong today.
 
However, in more recent times, Toyota Q/C and Engineering are less than in times past IMHO.

You do realize the 1FZ family of engines was designed in the 1980’s by Toyota‘s commercial material handling division for use in forklifts, stationary industrial applications, marine environments and in light-medium-duty buses and commercial trucks, right?

Toyoda Industries designed and manufactured the 1FZ for these applications and Toyota—when redesigning the Land Cruiser for the 1990’s—spared no expense in choosing a power plant that would result in decades of use (and abuse). Chief Engineer Takeo Kondo (he was instrumental for deciding power-plants for the 7x/8x/10x series vehicles) chose the 1FZ to retool for use in passenger vehicles.

IMG_4267.jpeg


I would not at all be worried about the power-plant you are working with. Yes, they are expensive and yes, they are basically rare and antique at this point, but the 1FZ remains a historically formidable engine that was one of the last of the “golden era” of unlimited Toyota money being poured into R&D for passenger vehicle application.
 
You do realize the 1FZ family of engines was designed in the 1980’s by Toyota‘s commercial material handling division for use in forklifts, stationary industrial application, marine environments and in light-medium-duty buses and commercial trucks, right?

Toyoda Industries designed and manufactured the 1FZ for these applications and Toyota—when redesigning the Land Cruiser for the 1990’s—spared no expense in choosing a power plant that would result in decades of use (and abuse). They chose the 1FZ to retool for use in passenger vehicles.

I would not at all be worried about the power-plant you are working with. Yes, they are expensive and yes they are basically rare and antique at this point, but the 1FZ remains a historically formidable engine that was the last of the golden age of unlimited Toyota money poured into R&D for passenger vehicle application.
Really cool informative information
 
IMO the best way to look at it, in terms of support with your not being a mechanic (or otherwise not deeply involved in making the swap happen), a fresh/refreshed 1FZ will be the better option.
This way, in case there are issues on a trip for example, a Toyota dealer/mechanic can know what he's looking at.
Swapping in something else will make finding support at that particular point in time rather difficult.
 
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I personally am always a keep it stock motor wise. Swapping motors is only good if you're the one doing it or know how to maintain it. The reason is when you swap most places are not going to know what is what since they likely didn't do it. Also like stated above say you need work done and you're traveling any toyota dealership or shade tree is going to be able to work on it verse some franken swapped motor.

Also one thing that really brought me to the land cruiser side was basically my time in the Marines. Every sh%t hole country I visited they all had one car in common. The damn Toyota land cruiser. I figured if its good enough for them and the horrific infrastructure/roads then they will serve me FOREVER here in the good ole US of A. A land cruiser in Afghanistan living its whole life there is not the same as us driving to work.
 
IMO the best way to look at it, in terms of support with your not being a mechanic (or otherwise not deeply involved in making the swap happen), a fresh/refreshed 1FZ will be the better option.
This way, in case there are issues on a trip for example, a Toyota dealer/mechanic can know what he's looking at.
Swapping in something else will make finding support at that particular point in time rather difficult.


I personally am always a keep it stock motor wise. Swapping motors is only good if you're the one doing it or know how to maintain it. The reason is when you swap most places are not going to know what is what since they likely didn't do it. Also like stated above say you need work done and you're traveling any toyota dealership or shade tree is going to be able to work on it verse some franken swapped motor.

Also one thing that really brought me to the land cruiser side was basically my time in the Marines. Every sh%t hole country I visited they all had one car in common. The damn Toyota land cruiser. I figured if its good enough for them and the horrific infrastructure/roads then they will serve me FOREVER here in the good ole US of A. A land cruiser in Afghanistan living its whole life there is not the same as us driving to work.

I would have to disagree. Finding a mechanic who is comfortable or familiar with working on an 80 series is rare.

I would rather be pulling into a small town in the middle of nowhere with a blown head gasket on a LS motor vs the 1fz fe. Parts are available everywhere and every professional mechanic in the country has plenty of experience on LS motors.

🤷‍♂️
 
I would have to disagree. Finding a mechanic who is comfortable or familiar with working on an 80 series is rare.

I would rather be pulling into a small town in the middle of nowhere with a blown head gasket on a LS motor vs the 1fz fe. Parts are available everywhere and every professional mechanic in the country has plenty of experience on LS motors.

🤷‍♂️
I would completely agree on the base argument of a mechanical failure. But if someone who either paid or purchased a swapped 80 ran into an electrical issue or some sort of gremlin (electrical or intermittent mechanical) issue I would venture it would be really difficult for that person to find help at your average shop. I’m not in the boat of staying with the 1FZ, but if someone wants to defy the Toyota formula and venture on their own they better be mechanically inclined or have a really good support system in case of failures.

Hell just finding a mechanic that can even work on an 80 is really difficult. Then there is the argument of the actual skill level of technicians of today…
 

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