80 Series Engine Turns, but doesn't start up - MY 1994 (1 Viewer)

[rsocalguy07]

Hi Everyone,

I'm hoping there is some sort of checklist that's out there to what should be checked to ensure nothing is missed.

So as the title says, the engine turns but doesn't start up. No check engine lights are on. The one odd thing is that the stereo no longer turns on (stock stereo). I've recently installed a new EFI relay to ensure that that wasn't the cause. Any thoughts or ideas on where else to start looking?

Thanks,
Rich

 

[Brindleboxer]

Rich,

Here is an awesome link to some common issue and how to fix. Emergency Troubleshooting Procedures - FAQ Item (Recommend Keeping Copy in Truck) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/emergency-troubleshooting-procedures-faq-item-recommend-keeping-copy-in-truck.115816/

 

[rsocalguy07]

Rich,

Here is an awesome link to some common issue and how to fix. Emergency Troubleshooting Procedures - FAQ Item (Recommend Keeping Copy in Truck) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/emergency-troubleshooting-procedures-faq-item-recommend-keeping-copy-in-truck.115816/

Thank you for sharing. This is exactly what I was hoping to find.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Fusible Link?

Until the CEL is on, nothing will happen. You can crank all day and it won't be any closer to starting.

 

[BILT4ME]

Hi Everyone,

I'm hoping there is some sort of checklist that's out there to what should be checked to ensure nothing is missed.

So as the title says, the engine turns but doesn't start up. No check engine lights are on. The one odd thing is that the stereo no longer turns on (stock stereo). I've recently installed a new EFI relay to ensure that that wasn't the cause. Any thoughts or ideas on where else to start looking?

Thanks,
Rich

What they're saying above is that there MUST be a CEL with the key on, in the RUN position, not cranking.

If the CEL is mnot on in that position, then the ECU does not have all the inputs needed to make it start.

Check the fusible links, check the plug above the distributor.

For any reason, did you remove the two screws on the AFM / MAF / VAF on the intake tube and tug on the wiring harness? if so, that's a hell no and just cost you $500.

 

[rsocalguy07]

What they're saying above is that there MUST be a CEL with the key on, in the RUN position, not cranking.

If the CEL is mnot on in that position, then the ECU does not have all the inputs needed to make it start.

Check the fusible links, check the plug above the distributor.

For any reason, did you remove the two screws on the AFM / MAF / VAF on the intake tube and tug on the wiring harness? if so, that's a hell no and just cost you $500.

No, I haven't disconnected anything other than the battery. I just checked the fuses/relays, and everything seems to be in order.

A few notes, the lights and horn function. The stereo does not turn on and the engine cranks, but no ignition. What are the chances that it's the fusible link? I found one on wits'end Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser - https://absolute-wits-end.com/fusible-link-for-80-series-land-cruiser/ for $21 (OEM). I'm going to swap that out and see if that's the culprit. I figured I'd rule that out first, then start checking the spark plugs, distributor, and con't until I can sort this out.

Just miss driving my truck on the weekends.

 

[BILT4ME]

No, I haven't disconnected anything other than the battery. I just checked the fuses/relays, and everything seems to be in order.

A few notes, the lights and horn function. The stereo does not turn on and the engine cranks, but no ignition. What are the chances that it's the fusible link? I found one on wits'end Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser - https://absolute-wits-end.com/fusible-link-for-80-series-land-cruiser/ for $21 (OEM). I'm going to swap that out and see if that's the culprit. I figured I'd rule that out first, then start checking the spark plugs, distributor, and con't until I can sort this out.

Just miss driving my truck on the weekends.

Don't buy it from him. He's in bankruptcy.

Buy it locally.

Yes, it's very possible it's the fusible link.

 

[TheBussman]

what's the backstory? have you been driving it often and now wont start? or has it been sitting? anything else done recently? check for power and ground at the ECU before buying anything.

 

[jonheld]

No, I haven't disconnected anything other than the battery. I just checked the fuses/relays, and everything seems to be in order.

A few notes, the lights and horn function. The stereo does not turn on and the engine cranks, but no ignition. What are the chances that it's the fusible link? I found one on wits'end Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser - https://absolute-wits-end.com/fusible-link-for-80-series-land-cruiser/ for $21 (OEM). I'm going to swap that out and see if that's the culprit. I figured I'd rule that out first, then start checking the spark plugs, distributor, and con't until I can sort this out.

Just miss driving my truck on the weekends.

Below is a cursory check of all 3 fusible links in system. This assumes an unmolested OEM configuration.
FL AM1 - Dome lights working?
FL AM2 - When you turn the key to ON does the CHARGE LAMP light up?
FL MAIN - Brake lights working?
If yes to all 3, then all 3 fusible links are intact.

Once again, this engine WILL NOT RUN without the CEL illuminating with the ignition key in the ON/RUN position before cranking the starter. The CEL in that position is telling you that the ECU is not in a "ready" state and the engine will not fire. Don't even bother cranking the starter.

Fusible links are the very first thing to check (see above), followed by the 15 amp EFI fuse in the relay box on the left fender, followed by the 7.5 amp IGN fuse in the fuse block by the driver's left knee.
Use a meter to check fuses/links, not your eyeballs.

 

[rsocalguy07]

what's the backstory? have you been driving it often and now wont start? or has it been sitting? anything else done recently? check for power and ground at the ECU before buying anything.

It's fully stock/unmolested in any way. It's typically just our weekend get-around vehicle. My wife even takes it to run errands at times.

I changed the O2 sensors a few months back and didn't have any issues with it starting afterwards (went with NGK brand). My neighbor who has a few different gen of LCs is going to give me a hand to check the power at the ECU.

Re: what works- the horn honks, the dome lights light up, the air turns on, brake lights work....the only thing that doesn't turn on with the key in the on position is the stereo.

Also, thank you all for providing helpful information.

 

[use2bn83]

It's fully stock/unmolested in any way. It's typically just our weekend get-around vehicle. My wife even takes it to run errands at times.

I changed the O2 sensors a few months back and didn't have any issues with it starting afterwards (went with NGK brand). My neighbor who has a few different gen of LCs is going to give me a hand to check the power at the ECU.

Re: what works- the horn honks, the dome lights light up, the air turns on, brake lights work....the only thing that doesn't turn on with the key in the on position is the stereo.

Also, thank you all for providing helpful information.

As mentioned a few times above, do you see the Check Engine light illuminated on the dash with the key in the run position and the engine off?

 

[rsocalguy07]

As mentioned a few times above, do you see the Check Engine light illuminated on the dash with the key in the run position and the engine off?

Sorry, for not answering this before. No, the CEL does not illuminate. Is that a specific tell-tale of something? And again, really appreciate everyone’s comments and feedback.

-Rich

 

[Fj80oregon]

Please re read jonhelds post above and follow his instructions about fusible links.

 

[use2bn83]

Sorry, for not answering this before. No, the CEL does not illuminate. Is that a specific tell-tale of something? And again, really appreciate everyone’s comments and feedback.

-Rich

Yes it does. It’s a fault with the ECU (see above for a good explanation). Simply put, that’s a clue to what is going on.

Check fuses, then fusible links, then grounds, then VC voltages, then wiring.

Hopefully the fusible link you have on order will solve the problem. But in the meantime you could verify with checking the fusible link.

Good luck! You should be jammin in no time.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

Sorry, for not answering this before. No, the CEL does not illuminate. Is that a specific tell-tale of something? And again, really appreciate everyone’s comments and feedback.

-Rich

If the CEL does not illuminate (and the bulb isn't burned out) that means that the ECU does not have all the required signals to start.

Can be the neutral safety switch, fusible link, VAF, etc.

DO NOT unscrew the screws on the wire harness connector to the VAF. That's not how it comes off.

 

[jonheld]

Sorry, for not answering this before. No, the CEL does not illuminate. Is that a specific tell-tale of something?

Please read post #9.

 

[lumbee1]

Please read post #9.

Please read post #7

@jonheld and @BILT4ME have both provided information for where to start triage.

I will add that a failed fusible link could be two different problems:
1) the fusible link has failed due to age or deterioration and simply needs to be replaced. You can verify this with a DMM and visual inspection.
2) you've got an upstream short that popped your fusible link. Unfortunately, installing a new fusible link will only blow when the upstream short happens again.

 

[jonheld]

Please read post #7

@jonheld and @BILT4ME have both provided information for where to start triage.

I will add that a failed fusible link could be two different problems:
1) the fusible link has failed due to age or deterioration and simply needs to be replaced. You can verify this with a DMM and visual inspection.
2) you've got an upstream short that popped your fusible link. Unfortunately, installing a new fusible link will only blow when the upstream short happens again.

I'm gonna nitpick here a bit.
Fusible links can't always diagnosed by visual inspection. They have a flameproof silicone jacket that will look intact if the strands inside have fractured from fatigue.
Upstream of the fusible links is the battery. Downstream of the fusible links are the circuits they protect.

 

[Rmautodiagnostics]

I signed up to reply because I came across this post and have a 1993 80 series with 1fz-fe in the shop that is doing the exact same thing. No start, no check engine light. Crank and cam sensors test good, have actually had them on an oscilloscope to verify. Coil tests weak, so it was replaced. Power to coil, power to igniter, so we thought the igniter might be shot and replaced it with a new one. Still no spark. In short, it doesn't make sense why there is still no spark. Diagnosing it further showed there is no trigger signal (IGT) from the ECU to fire the igniter. When manually pulsed at the ecu loom the coil fired, so it confirmed the wiring, the ignitor and the coil are all good. Even the troubleshooting manual from toyota suggested trying a replacement ECU. Still exactly the same.

Do me a favour? unplug the air flow meter (you guys call them a VAF?) and see if the check engine light comes back on when you turn on the ignition. If it does, the air flow meter is likely the cause of your fault and is what is preventing the ECU from being in "ready state".

You can 100% check the air flow meter by either back pinning the right wires at the connectors at the ecu or by checking the resistance values for each of the circuits at the air flow meter itself. The valves for the voltage check at the ECU and the resistance values at the air flow meter are in the 80 series repair manual.

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Hey guys! Rich is my neighbor and I helped him work through some of the suggestions. Here is an update of what we did:
- Replaced all three fusible links as a precaution.
- Tested the cig fuse to make sure the radio wasn't down due to a simple fuse issue. Fuse was good and cig works though radio does not. Radio does not come on at all.
- Checked the engine fuse in the dash fuse block and it both good and was getting voltage when key in run.
- EFI fuse in engine bay checked out good and got voltage when key in run.
- Unplugged the Air Flow sensor (actually unplugged by removing the retention clips and not unscrewing) and no change in the CEL behavior of not coming on at any time during the key cycling through run to start.
- Checked the plug on top of the distributor and it looked fine and was seated properly.

Also to note, for some reason the charcoal canister has damage and is no longer sealed. The top seems to have melted on the leading side after a hot drive in the desert. it is fairly localized and nothing else seems to be affected by visual inspection. Not sure if that is related or not, but wanted to put all the information out there.

Would love some more input on what to check next. Any thoughts?