1993 1fzfe engine swap

[stvrn6]

Ill be doing an engine swap on my project 80 series that has rod knock with a cheap replacement engine I was able to source locally. The engine has 298,xxx miles but guaranteed to run just burns oil. I was going to have it rebuilt, but I don't want to drop 3-5k considering ill be doing a LS or diesel in the near future (1-3 years). I paid 500$ for the engine and the guy gave me 2 complete OEM head gasket kits and an extra short block (short block is probably junk but free).
So I want to replace everything that should be replaced while the engine is out. considering the mileage of the engine what is something that is generally overlooked that should be replaced for peace of mind. Also the engine is a 95 going into a 93, what needs to be changed in order for it to work with obd1?
also an maintenance I should do on the transmission or transfer case?

 

[OfficialGamings]

From a electrical standpoint, Going back to odb1 shouldn't be that hard. You would mostly just have to take into consideration that OBD2 Had a update of more/changes in sensors.

Since your going back down to VAF just a reminder to NOT unscrew the 2 Philips head bits on the VAF, There is a small metal spring clip on the connector itself.

From what I read you are thinking of using the 93 harness and ECU? 93 Tranny and Transfer case?

I would suggest reading up on a few older posts even if they are OBD1 to OBD2. Just to get a sense of what has changed.
There was a discussion in this post about what somewhat changed

converting obd1 to obd2

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[stvrn6]

From a electrical standpoint, Going back to odb1 shouldn't be that hard. You would mostly just have to take into consideration that OBD2 Had a update of more/changes in sensors.

Since your going back down to VAF just a reminder to NOT unscrew the 2 Philips head bits on the VAF, There is a small metal spring clip on the connector itself.

From what I read you are thinking of using the 93 harness and ECU? 93 Tranny and Transfer case?

I would suggest reading up on a few older posts even if they are OBD1 to OBD2. Just to get a sense of what has changed.
There was a discussion in this post about what somewhat changed

converting obd1 to obd2

forum.ih8mud.com

oh yes thank you. and correct, obd 1 tranny, TC, ecu, and harness on obd2 engine.

 

[samiam09]

Ill be doing an engine swap on my project 80 series that has rod knock with a cheap replacement engine I was able to source locally. The engine has 298,xxx miles but guaranteed to run just burns oil. I was going to have it rebuilt, but I don't want to drop 3-5k considering ill be doing a LS or diesel in the near future (1-3 years). I paid 500$ for the engine and the guy gave me 2 complete OEM head gasket kits and an extra short block (short block is probably junk but free).
So I want to replace everything that should be replaced while the engine is out. considering the mileage of the engine what is something that is generally overlooked that should be replaced for peace of mind. Also the engine is a 95 going into a 93, what needs to be changed in order for it to work with obd1?
also an maintenance I should do on the transmission or transfer case?

the engine was a 1996

 

[RiverCityDave]

Mechanically, you are fine. It is easier to go down than up. If the sensors from your old head/block are good, save them. A few are specific to the OBDI setup, so they will have different connections. They are the same type of sensor, just different connections. I'm running a 97 Head on my 94, and there are no issues whatsoever. The big problems are in the transmission you aren't dealing with. A crank position sensor on the OBDII upper oil pan would leave a hole, or a dangling wire that will make you want to use your original oil pan, though I've heard of folks just blocking it. Pretty straightforward, and you should probably do the seals anyway. To be clear, the 94 and older engine doesn't use a crank position sensor. Ignition impulse is driven off the distributor.

Drop it in and enjoy.

 

[jpoole]

So I want to replace everything that should be replaced while the engine is out

at 300k miles, with the engine out, I'd consider the following:

• head gasket
• head clean / inspect
• valve stem seals (the likely source of your oil consumption)
• new valve cover seal / spark plug tube seals
• oil pump cover seal
• oil cooler seals
• front/rear crank/main seals
• remove/reseal the timing cover (these often leak a bit below the distributor)
• replace timing chain guides/slippers
• upper pan arch seal

All of those are going to be a lot easier with the engine out and while some are lower priority there is overlap on a lot of these so it could make sense to knock them all out.

You can do an inspection of the cylinders when the head is off and even do lower end bearing inspection/measurements if you remove the pan but you are right on the edge of a pretty slipper slope if you go that far

 

[stvrn6]

at 300k miles, with the engine out, I'd consider the following:

• head gasket
• head clean / inspect
• valve stem seals (the likely source of your oil consumption)
• new valve cover seal / spark plug tube seals
• oil pump cover seal
• oil cooler seals
• front/rear crank/main seals
• remove/reseal the timing cover (these often leak a bit below the distributor)
• replace timing chain guides/slippers
• upper pan arch seal

All of those are going to be a lot easier with the engine out and while some are lower priority there is overlap on a lot of these so it could make sense to knock them all out.

You can do an inspection of the cylinders when the head is off and even do lower end bearing inspection/measurements if you remove the pan but you are right on the edge of a pretty slipper slope if you go that far

thank you! ill be ordering everything and hopefully getting it running soon.

 

[stvrn6]

the engine was a 1996

How you doing? Are you still in Covina?

 

[samiam09]

How you doing? Are you still in Covina?

still here for now