This is a fantastic thread! Thanks for taking the time to write up all you've done to restore Emerald. This stuff is invaluable!
Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 2001LC
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
You're welcome. Thank you for saying so, enjoy!
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Oil leaks! No more!
Found frond diff rear seal leak and steering rack input shaft leak. AT-205 re-seal is first set. The seals get old and AT-205 restores what time has leached out. AT-205 is not a stop leak or seal modifier, I don't use those.
Addition a measured amount of AT-205 and drive for minimum of 5 hours, clean and reinspect for leak by watching closely as I drive. Seems to have done the job. Both minor leaks stopped.
Front diff
This leaks seem to be from above just. After cleaning I've yet to see it return.
- Thread starter
- #63
Power steering Flushing
forum.ih8mud.com
Some Stock footage, which not very good videos of Land Cruiser PS flush, bleed and inspect. I need to redo this with my current method. In first video it's a 100 series flushing. Starting engine for 2 or 3 seconds does get just a tiny bit (1oz) more out of vane pump, than not starting engine method. But no starting method is easier and safer. 200 series Toyota FSM us check for air in system two ways. One by looking for bubbles or foam in reservoir after and during running vane pump/engine just like in the 100 series. Then the other inspect for air, is to look at change in reservoir level from pump/engine running then turned off of <5mm.
We start the bleed tire in the air, engine off, turn steering wheel lock to lock and hold at lock 3 seconds (just like too flush). This is done 3 times in each direction. Then do same with tires on the ground engine running.
Steering Flush & Cleaning
Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...
forum.ih8mud.com
Some Stock footage, which not very good videos of Land Cruiser PS flush, bleed and inspect. I need to redo this with my current method. In first video it's a 100 series flushing. Starting engine for 2 or 3 seconds does get just a tiny bit (1oz) more out of vane pump, than not starting engine method. But no starting method is easier and safer. 200 series Toyota FSM us check for air in system two ways. One by looking for bubbles or foam in reservoir after and during running vane pump/engine just like in the 100 series. Then the other inspect for air, is to look at change in reservoir level from pump/engine running then turned off of <5mm.
We start the bleed tire in the air, engine off, turn steering wheel lock to lock and hold at lock 3 seconds (just like too flush). This is done 3 times in each direction. Then do same with tires on the ground engine running.
- Thread starter
- #64
Power Steering hoses leaks and weeps.
I got lucky and the high pressure & lower pressure line were replace by Lexus.
In the 98-02, return hose to reservoir is only sold by Toyota as part of HP & Lower pressure line assembly. So again, sweet this was replaced.
The suction hose which runs between reservoir and vane pump was apparently weeping a bit at one point. As Lexus Dealership put on screw clamps and just some cut to fit hose. This works okay, temporarily. But longer term it's best practice to replace the suction hose and spring clamps with Toyota OEM, so I did!
I'll get a picture of the new up later
I got lucky and the high pressure & lower pressure line were replace by Lexus.
In the 98-02, return hose to reservoir is only sold by Toyota as part of HP & Lower pressure line assembly. So again, sweet this was replaced.
The suction hose which runs between reservoir and vane pump was apparently weeping a bit at one point. As Lexus Dealership put on screw clamps and just some cut to fit hose. This works okay, temporarily. But longer term it's best practice to replace the suction hose and spring clamps with Toyota OEM, so I did!
I'll get a picture of the new up later
Great thread. What's your experience with upper and lower control arms with it and high mileage vehicles can you change rubbers or best get new parts ?.
- Thread starter
- #66
I've only replaced LCA ball joints in Emerald, and just last week I did my first upper ball joint. The upper ball joint was for a local mud member that stop by, so I could help him find leak(s) into his second row floor mats. I found so many leaks and other stuff in dire need of attention, that He ask if I'd repair what it needed to be roadworthy. Inspecting a 100 series for "LEAKS" "Yeaks"
I'll post lower ball joints R&R in Emerald, when I get time to catch up on post.
As for the bushing of LCA & UCA, I've never replaced them on any 100 or 200 series. I know we've choices in bushing materials "rubber or poly" are both available. That poly will last the longer and is much stiffer/ridged. Whereas rubber will keep the stock feel. That when poly is used, it's added stiffness, will bring out marginal bushing and ball joints reducing their life.
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No worries thanks. I forgot to mention I was talking about the rear upper and lower control arms who tend to wear out the rubbers to.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
Updates?
- Thread starter
- #69
Sorry I've been busy helping other with their rigs (100 and 200 series) and not kept up with posting on this thread.
It's runs and handles great.
We (GF and I) drive daily. So I can't get a good read on MPG, as she has heavier foot than I on gas pedal.
I do still need to:
It's runs and handles great.
We (GF and I) drive daily. So I can't get a good read on MPG, as she has heavier foot than I on gas pedal.
I do still need to:
- Get the rest of door lock motor replaced. But only issue on hot days on sunny side, so not a priority.
- The front DS door hinges are worm a bit. The new OEM hinges are still on shelf waiting for me to install.
- Steering column and DS seat feels a bit loose. Need to inspect closer.
- Steering rack input shaft began leaking again after flush, just a bit. So I added some more AT-205 and it stopped.
- Front differential rear seal held after first adding AT-205.
- Need to clean carpet and rub out & wax body paint.
Thanks for posting all the great information 2001. Do you just leave that AT 205 in? I couldn’t find any at the local parts store so I ordered it from Amazon and added it to my Jeep engine hoping it’ll seal a rear main leak. I also puta few ounces in my GX470 steering as the boots are wet on the bottom. Hoping it’ll seal the rack leak also. I was planning on flushing the steering and changing the engine oil after 500 miles or so, but I’ve been reading that people just leave it in. You?
Curious as to what the fix is for the seat! Subbed.
- Thread starter
- #72
You can leave in or flush out according to company. Company also said run with AT-205 for 5 hours minimum.
I think flushing with with synthetic first. Then operating for awhile. Will help clean seals. Then adding AT-205 to the clean seals, it should absorb better.
I've had better than 50% luck with rack input shaft seal using AT-205. But I've not had any luck with output seals (leak at boot).
If your asking about the loose feel of DS seat. I've not even inspected yet. So cannot say, but I'm think just loose bolts.
"Subbed" ?
Subscribed; subscribed to this post, to follow it.
- Thread starter
- #74
On subject of power steering.
It seem input shaft of rack & pinion has stop leaking again, after a second dose of AT-205 (1st dose before flushing). I suppose first dose of AT-205 wan't absorbed well due to dirty seal. Second dose was after M1 full synthetic had over 3K miles of time to work cleaning seal. Will see how much time it buys this time. The rack gears seems good otherwise.
New OEM suction hose and clamp.
Old aftermarket with screw clamp.
It seem input shaft of rack & pinion has stop leaking again, after a second dose of AT-205 (1st dose before flushing). I suppose first dose of AT-205 wan't absorbed well due to dirty seal. Second dose was after M1 full synthetic had over 3K miles of time to work cleaning seal. Will see how much time it buys this time. The rack gears seems good otherwise.
New OEM suction hose and clamp.
Old aftermarket with screw clamp.
- Thread starter
- #75
Glad to have you!
- Thread starter
- #76
How about we do brakes next.
I had ABS, brake light, VSCO OFF and DTC
Found a wire cut on ABS unit on side of master. Remember this rig sat in a flied for extended period of time.
Fix it in just minutes actually.
I had ABS, brake light, VSCO OFF and DTC
Found a wire cut on ABS unit on side of master. Remember this rig sat in a flied for extended period of time.
Fix it in just minutes actually.
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D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
Love the work you do. Wish I could find me an LX in a field for less than scrap price...
Green! I love it! Keep up the good work.
- Thread starter
- #79
I've found a few over the years. This was just first I keep and the highest mileage. But keep in mind, I've hundreds of hours and more than $6k in it now.
My GF really like the Green also. It's grown on me.
Awesome thread! Thanks for sharing the knowledge.
