prwillard2
SILVER Star
I just consider it engineering optimization!
Builds Saudi 75 1 - Tilda Bogue Service Station (3 Viewers)
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- Thread starter
- #162
Disclaimer. We only did 2 spanner bars. Hopefully these will just be used as heavy duty steps and not hard core sliders.
These are the 58” Trail Gear weld on sliders.
On both sides the the wizard made drop brackets behind the spring hangers and scab plates on the rear. Turned out nice.
These are the 58” Trail Gear weld on sliders.
On both sides the the wizard made drop brackets behind the spring hangers and scab plates on the rear. Turned out nice.
On the to do list for my Ute
- Thread starter
- #164
Picked this one up and installed a new ignition switch today. Thanks to @OGBeno I got the right one. My search had turned up the wrong PN.
I loaded up his 37” Treps he left at my house. That 700# load sure made this thing ride fantastic.
I made a nice speed run. GPS had me at 107 mph
I loaded up his 37” Treps he left at my house. That 700# load sure made this thing ride fantastic.
I made a nice speed run. GPS had me at 107 mph
- Thread starter
- #165
FYI anyone that uses the Front Range big brake kit, the caliper may need to be shimmed with thick washers so it does not come into contact with the rotor.
Jonathan was hearing some rotational contact when turning hard left and I checked it out today and it was very close on the rack on one side of the rotor so I added a thick washer and I think I cured it.
It’s a fun ride
Jonathan was hearing some rotational contact when turning hard left and I checked it out today and it was very close on the rack on one side of the rotor so I added a thick washer and I think I cured it.
It’s a fun ride
Tits. Strong.
- Thread starter
- #167
Just picked this one up to put a new door key assembly in it. Freezing rain hit and damn if the defrost selector won’t move it from vent. He lever slides freely but it’s stuck on vent.
Anyone have the steps to fix this?
Anyone have the steps to fix this?
There is a lot of good info for the HVAC system and controls for 70 series here:
Heat/AC/Mixer HVAC Tech Info
Some questions in my build thread about more details on the HVAC controls spurred me to do a tech thread of sorts. The whole HVAC is comprised of three primary parts. The intake and blower motor are on the far right (for a LHD vehicle) and includes the diverter for fresh/recirculated air...
forum.ih8mud.com
Hope that helps
I would want to know how the moisture got in there in the first place to have it freeze up. Otherwise this could end up being a repeat frustration every time you have temperatures around freezing.
- Thread starter
- #170
It’s not frozen at all. Sorry to not be clear.
The windshield was frozen. It’s sleeting here.
The slide from Vent to Heat to Defrost is not doing anything. It moves but it’s not sliding whatever it needs to slide to direct air
Sounds like the cable broke or came unhooked from the lever.
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- #172
Figured. I was hoping someone would say “easy fix” pop this off and do this
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Sorry but I don't think there is an easy fix. Here's a photo of it all apart if that helps at all.
Remove the surround around the HVAC controls and then remove the panels on each side. You can generally remove everything a piece at a time. All of the controls are push pull cables (as I'm sure you know) and they generally go to very simple dampers that only move 90 degrees +/-. You can take this all apart without removing the HVAC faceplate.
Apologies but I don't recall exactly where the defrost, etc. push pull connects but it will be easy to follow it as you pull panels. I don't know any way to address this issue without removing the panels.
Remove the surround around the HVAC controls and then remove the panels on each side. You can generally remove everything a piece at a time. All of the controls are push pull cables (as I'm sure you know) and they generally go to very simple dampers that only move 90 degrees +/-. You can take this all apart without removing the HVAC faceplate.
Apologies but I don't recall exactly where the defrost, etc. push pull connects but it will be easy to follow it as you pull panels. I don't know any way to address this issue without removing the panels.
- Thread starter
- #174
Jesus
Dekeman
SILVER Star
Nothing you can't tackle.
I haven't had to mess with my HVAC much, but pulling the HVAC control panel out of the dash is really quite straightforward. If the problem is on that end it should be a pretty simple fix. If a cable broke or is disconnected on the flap end it will require going in much deeper.
This...
But... (BUTT?) I really hope it is not a stewpid piece of plastic that broke in the cold weather, as that usually necessitates taking things really apart and hopefully you can just replace a piece as opposed to replacing a major component just because of a small broken piece of plastic.
Fortunately MOST of the time it just requires a teardown and good cleaning and a few adjustments. I say fortunately, because though it is a lot of work, it is pretty simple and at least you do not have to get any parts ordered(if they are even available).
Best of luck getting to the bottom of this, and hopefully it is something easy and simple.
Hello,
That lever gets stuck in old age. It is usually due to lubrication, or the lack thereof.
You just have to remove the rectangular faceplate around the AC control panel. There is no need to take the whole dash apart.
In a nutshell:
- Remove the faceplate. Six screws.
- Disconnect the clock, cigarette lighter and the four switches below the AC panel. This will allow you access.
- Remove the knobs from the levers and blower switch.
- Remove the panel plate. Be careful, it may break.
- Remove the lever assembly. Four screws if I remember correctly.
- Very gently, pull the assembly outwards.
- Disconnect the blower switch.
- Disconnect the panel light bulb.
- Check every lever and its cable.
- Adjust the cable if it is loose.
- Lubricate the lever pivots. Lithium grease or Vaseline are good options.
- The Vent/Defrost lever responds well to lubricant. Check for proper operation. If necessary, let the lubricant penetrate for a while.
- Reassemble.
Juan
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- Thread starter
- #179
Thank you
Nolan,
Two questions for you. It looks like that T100 master has a cap that just snaps on, which is also what my HZJ73 has. I am interested in these Motive Power bleeders. Is there an adapter or something that works well with that snap on cap? I would think the pressure would potentially leak around it or pop it off.
Also, do you have a part number for those steel brake lines to delete the soft/small hard line near the caliper. I know you said they were from valley hybrids, but they don't have much of a website.
Thanks,
Sean
Two questions for you. It looks like that T100 master has a cap that just snaps on, which is also what my HZJ73 has. I am interested in these Motive Power bleeders. Is there an adapter or something that works well with that snap on cap? I would think the pressure would potentially leak around it or pop it off.
Also, do you have a part number for those steel brake lines to delete the soft/small hard line near the caliper. I know you said they were from valley hybrids, but they don't have much of a website.
Thanks,
Sean
