SASing my 100 (2 Viewers)

[hoser]

Any suggestions on pinion/ castor degrees of separation? I’d like to keep this car as low as possible with a 3 link front end. Im aiming between 5-6” lift over stock height.

Just catching up on this thread now. Curious what yo decided on?

As for spool vs full-time 4wd.... I'd run first decide which type of 4wd you'd like to run. Personally, I love RWD on my sportscars but for my Land Cruisers, I like full-time 4wd. Hell, I wish I could put the Torsen Center Differential off my 200 onto my Part-time 4wd 70 series. You can drive your stuff as is with the "CDL" locked on front hubs unlocked for however long you want.

 

[ajordan1975]

Makes more sense now after watching a few videos/ doing more research. Thanks for the heads up. Marlin’s spools are on back order right now. Might be a few more weeks till they get some. Luckily there’s other work to be done prior to Tcase building.

I’ve been happy with the PT in my 80.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Just catching up on this thread now. Curious what yo decided on?

As for spool vs full-time 4wd.... I'd run first decide which type of 4wd you'd like to run. Personally, I love RWD on my sportscars but for my Land Cruisers, I like full-time 4wd. Hell, I wish I could put the Torsen Center Differential off my 200 onto my Part-time 4wd 70 series. You can drive your stuff as is with the "CDL" locked on front hubs unlocked for however long you want.

Going back through my emails from FROR/Diamond axle, I ended up with a 15 degree caster at pinion neutral, so with a 9 degree pinion angle (pointed at the T-Case) I should be at 6 degrees of caster at ride height.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Wrapped up week 1, got all the front suspension and drive out. What’s left in the gargantuan IFS bracket cradle is the steering rack. Saw some videos on how to get it out and decided against letting coolant, oil, and PS fluid drip into my mouth.

This left me with an idea; as I’ve seen on other SAS’d 100 threads I’ve noticed people have an issue with upper link clearance (when utilizing a 3 link suspension system). I noticed one particular modification, done by @peacesells63, with his new motor mounts. They are tucked up high and leave plenty of room for the upper link to maximize up travel. The picture can be found on page 3 of this thread: UZJ100 to UZJ105: SAS build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/uzj100-to-uzj105-sas-build.1276511/page-3

Now here’s my idea- cutting the frame in front of the body mount at the firewall and right behind the two front body mounts.
In theory I’d like to rebuild that front frame section at a higher point, but reconnect it at the front section. More or less like the way the bagged Chevy C-10 guys modify the rear frame to tuck the axle in super low. Not necessarily a “notch” kit but more like a compressed /•••\ arch, enough to raise the frame by ~2” and coming back down to tie back into the front of the factory frame/ body mounts.
After doing some research, I believe 3/16” 2x4 tube should be acceptable, but this is a 6000lb car… would anyone suggest 3x6 tubing?
Now I am not a mechanical or structural engineer by trade but I’m not a complete novice. Any professional opinions on the matter of frame chopping and rebuilding to get a higher clearance?

 

[RustyLinkz]

Something like this:

 

[RustyLinkz]

This week on Does it Blend?

yes

 

[Exiled]

You are HARD CORE!!

 

[RustyLinkz]

Week 2, April 1-5: Frame cut, new supplies purchased, designing/ building new frame.

I'm using 2x4 3/16" rectangular tubing. Decided on this material versus 2x3 because of the dimensions of the steering box (4 1/2"x2" bolt hole mounting location). I guess I could have used 2x3 but I feel like the 2x4 gives ample space as well as a stronger frame section, less prone to twisting/bending/ etc. I was researching a bit about the section modulus of rectangular tubing and found a formula to determine the section modulus between 2x4 3/16" tube vs 2x3 3/16" tube. I came up with S (section modulus)= 1.1 using 2x4 and S=0.76 using 2x3. I'll post a picture of my calculations below. What do those numbers tell me? I have no idea... I'm just a paramedic. The most math I do is choosing between 1 vial or 2 vials.

Anyways, new frame is coming together. Busy 7 day work stretch between April 5-12 so won't get much done between now and then. Motor mount fab parts are on order as well as a handful of gussets (gussies as my lady calls them) and fish plates for the new frame section.

I set my first cut frame section at nice easy 30* angles because it's easy to cut and then set the length to a slightly arbitrary 15" section. That places me at level height with the bottom of the motor mount holes on the block almost equal to the top of the new frame section. I did this in order to build the motor mount come out at a flat 90 to sit on or inside the new frame using the KISS method. Figure Occam would approve of this frame build. I'll get to the next section next week.

The frame caps are leveled at ~90* and flush with the cut OE frame, mirroring each other. EZPZ, no special angles needed to consider, just equidistant from each other at the outside measurement/inside measurement. These will be finished welded once more of the frame is complete, gusseted (gussied) and plated.

I have all the hardware for my axle now so I'll be putting that together in my garage here and there this week if I have time or energy. I got my hellfire high steer arms back from a machine shop. Arms and 105 pitman arm are drilled out to 3/4" to accept big ole heims, aiming for a double shear set up on the cast pitman arm and hellfire knuckles, similar to how Adam at Stellar Built fab'd up that 80 series.

anyways, pictures:

 

[RustyLinkz]

Pics

 

[RustyLinkz]

Section modulus? What even is this…

 

[RustyLinkz]

Axle outers:
Hellfire knuckle, arms drilled out to 3/4”, 105 series rotor and hub, 100 series caliper. Manual hubs with chromoly gear
Hubs sourced from @cruiseroutfit, knuckles from ruff stuff and rotors from cruiserparts.net https://shop.cruiserparts.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=37395

 

[Ma son]

this thread is getting very sexual.... im in! subbed

 

[hoser]

What is your plan here? Are you going to be able to fish plate it?

 

[RustyLinkz]

What is your plan here? Are you going to be able to fish plate it?

Haven’t decided on where I’ll mount the new 2x4 frame, ideally I want it flush with one side of the old frame in order to fish plate that side and then triangular gusset the other side that has a gap (isn’t flush with a flat surface)
I’ll most likely span a flat plate over the gusset section to tie into the body mount. I’ve heard vertical welds on the frame induce stress risers, but it seems that there’s conflicting information regarding the welding process, type of frame that’s modified, tractor trailer frame vs recreational vehicle, etc.
It seems like I should avoid vertical welds. We’ll see what I can come up with. Any wisdom or knowledge would be appreciated.

 

[MechE30]

Good on you to do some basic calcs. Essentially, a higher section modulus means for a given moment (force applied at an distance), there’s a lower internal stress on that cross section. So, bigger section modulus means less stress. Stress is bad, but you know that cause you’re a paramedic

 

[hoser]

Haven’t decided on where I’ll mount the new 2x4 frame, ideally I want it flush with one side of the old frame in order to fish plate that side and then triangular gusset the other side that has a gap (isn’t flush with a flat surface)
I’ll most likely span a flat plate over the gusset section to tie into the body mount. I’ve heard vertical welds on the frame induce stress risers, but it seems that there’s conflicting information regarding the welding process, type of frame that’s modified, tractor trailer frame vs recreational vehicle, etc.
It seems like I should avoid vertical welds. We’ll see what I can come up with. Any wisdom or knowledge would be appreciated.

I'm not an engineer so take what I say with a grain of salt but given what you have at this point, I would certainly line up one side to fish plate it.... maybe remove the body mount, fish plate and then reinstall body mount. On the other side, I'd build up material so the frame width and new section match in width and also fish plate it.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Good on you to do some basic calcs. Essentially, a higher section modulus means for a given moment (force applied at a distance), there’s a lower internal stress on that cross section. So, bigger section modulus means less stress. Stress is bad, but you know that cause you’re a paramedic

That’s funny cause I like stress.
But thanks for the simple explanation, makes sense

 

[RustyLinkz]

Light trimming might be necessary

 

[RustyLinkz]

Factory radiator hangs down low. I plan on building a cross member to brace under the radiator to act as a skid, either round tube or channel.
Time to do some radiator shopping, anyone recommend a shorter radiator? Something that would tuck up a couple inches higher? Or does anyone have experience with other types, 2 vs 4 row, aluminum vs plastic OE style?

 

[RustyLinkz]

Here's the game plan; I'll be building the truck around a 40" tire in lieu of an appropriate size (37"-39") so I know I can clear and fit any tire smaller than a 40" with ease. Last time I SAS'd a previous 4runner of mine, I built the truck around a 37" tire then upgraded to 39s and they didn't fit. Not cool brah. It was also a "meh" build. I didn't really understand what I was doing. It worked but wasn't great. I'd like to have this cruiser dialed.

Here's the dilemma; I'm still running Toyota axles and despite their size, they are not won-tons.
4.88s is my ideal ratio for strength, 5.29s make more sense. Anyone wanna chime in about the strength of a 9.5" ring and pinion in a 5.29 ratio? I don't pin the rev limiter, I don't bounce, I'm generally tame with the skinny pedal.
My other thought it is to regear to 4.88s and underdrive the high range by 10%. I already have the low range reduction gears but would high range reduction and 4.88s suffice? It'll cost more in the end but I think that would be a better option than only doing 5.29s in the diffs.