SASing my 100 (3 Viewers)

[hoser]

I vote:
- 5.29's. Plenty of 80's running around on 5.29's with a smaller front differential
-Keeping the radiator size for its cooling capacity
-Stretching the wheelbase a bit (axle forward as shown in your mock up) for better firewall clearance and better approach angle
- 3-linking it

 

[ajordan1975]

Here's the game plan; I'll be building the truck around a 40" tire in lieu of an appropriate size (37"-39") so I know I can clear and fit any tire smaller than a 40" with ease. Last time I SAS'd a previous 4runner of mine, I built the truck around a 37" tire then upgraded to 39s and they didn't fit. Not cool brah. It was also a "meh" build. I didn't really understand what I was doing. It worked but wasn't great. I'd like to have this cruiser dialed.

Here's the dilemma; I'm still running Toyota axles and despite their size, they are not won-tons.
4.88s is my ideal ratio for strength, 5.29s make more sense. Anyone wanna chime in about the strength of a 9.5" ring and pinion in a 5.29 ratio? I don't pin the rev limiter, I don't bounce, I'm generally tame with the skinny pedal.
My other thought it is to regear to 4.88s and underdrive the high range by 10%. I already have the low range reduction gears but would high range reduction and 4.88s suffice? It'll cost more in the end but I think that would be a better option than only doing 5.29s in the diffs.

I run 5.29's and 37's in my LS Swapped 80. I did blow up the front 8" recently, but was completely my fault.
I think 5.29's will work great for you since you're doing a 9.5 front... I feel like most people that say 5.29's are weak have never ran them and a regurgitating what a friend told them.... I also think that the 4.88 and underdrive route is a solid idea.
If your case is already reduced go 5.29.

 

[RustyLinkz]

I vote:
- 5.29's. Plenty of 80's running around on 5.29's with a smaller front differential
-Keeping the radiator size for its cooling capacity
-Stretching the wheelbase a bit (axle forward as shown in your mock up) for better firewall clearance and better approach angle
- 3-linking it

Thanks for your vote. I'll start the tally today. So far we have two votes for 5.29s, none for 4.88s. The answer seems obvious...

I do think 5.29s will be a better option for me. Now how about the 10% underdrive high range? Worth $1200 for the kit? I am already taking apart my t-case but those gear were not in my budget.

Would I lose serious cooling capacity if the radiator height is reduced by 2"? There's gotta be a solution to this. I just need to find it.

The front will be pushed forward and I will be linking the car, no sense to use those radius arms.

 

[RustyLinkz]

I run 5.29's and 37's in my LS Swapped 80. I did blow up the front 8" recently, but was completely my fault.
I think 5.29's will work great for you since you're doing a 9.5 front... I feel like most people that say 5.29's are weak have never ran them and a regurgitating what a friend told them.... I also think that the 4.88 and underdrive route is a solid idea.
If your case is already reduced go 5.29.

I've blown up a 4.10 HP 8" too. Doesn't take a lot. Again, my fault, not the rocks.
I'm the guy who says they are weak and I've never ran them. I gotta shut up I guess.
To be budget friendly I think Ill go 5.29s in the diffs and leave the high-range alone for now. If highway driving isn't cutting it, I'll swap high range gears down the road. Thanks for your input @ajordan1975 (also, sick LS'd 80)

 

[hoser]

5.29 / 4.3 = 29%
37" / 31" = 19%
39" / 31" = 26%

5.29's without the T-case underdrive is already a good match.

The radiator, Ron Davis will custom build you whatever you want. It's just a matter of money. But, the OE radiator has a transmission cooler/heater in the lower end tank. You'll have to decide whether you want to retain in the new radiator or delete.

 

[RustyLinkz]

5.29 / 4.3 = 29%
37" / 31" = 19%
39" / 31" = 26%

5.29's without the T-case underdrive is already a good match.

The radiator, Ron Davis will custom build you whatever you want. It's just a matter of money. But, the OE radiator has a transmission cooler/heater in the lower end tank. You'll have to decide whether you want to retain in the new radiator or delete.

I'll give him a ping, thanks for that. I'll look around for other OE Toyota radiators that meet the same width of ours that might be a little shorter.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Frame progress:

Working on the engine mount/ front body mounts this weekend.

The frame is within a half a degree of itself on either side of the frame rails and level at the front.
Pretty happy with it.

 

[RustyLinkz]

I’m slightly behind schedule. I wanted this done and driving by June 8 to get to Valley Hybrids swap meet. We’ll see if I can get it done.
Engine mounts took longer than expected, body mounts were easy.
I looked into buying a tank of Argon but it costs $1000 for the tank and gas. Costs $400 to rent, but I haven’t set up an account with the local welding supply shop… looks like I’ll be FCAW this whole thing.
Traveling to Bend, OR this weekend for some lady time. Next step when I get home is finish welding the frame with paint and mock up steering gear box.

 

[kevgentile]

If you ever have to remove the exhaust manifold looks like the motor will have to be lifted a few inches to drop enough to clear the studs.
What about an extra nut plate welded to the frame rails that the mount can bolt to and remove when necessary.
I went thru this when fabbing my sas t1n sprinter project.

Your flux core looks a lot better than what we have in the shop. Ours is always hit or miss. Does a decent job on .120"

 

[RustyLinkz]

If you ever have to remove the exhaust manifold looks like the motor will have to be lifted a few inches to drop enough to clear the studs.
What about an extra nut plate welded to the frame rails that the mount can bolt to and remove when necessary.
I went thru this when fabbing my sas t1n sprinter project.

Your flux core looks a lot better than what we have in the shop. Ours is always hit or miss. Does a decent job on .120"

It’s like what SuperfastMatt says, “that’s a problem for future me.”
You have a great idea though. I’ll look into weld nuts and see if I can come up with a solution. I need to weld a 3/16” plate to cap the frame side of the mount. There’s a small gap in there and I want that filled with steel instead of weld.

I’m practicing my uphill welding but it’s not pretty yet. At least it’s hot.

 

[kevgentile]

It’s like what SuperfastMatt says, “that’s a problem for future me.”
You have a great idea though. I’ll look into weld nuts and see if I can come up with a solution. I need to weld a 3/16” plate to cap the frame side of the mount. There’s a small gap in there and I want that filled with steel instead of weld.

I’m practicing my uphill welding but it’s not pretty yet. At least it’s hot.

I struggle with uphills too. I tend to go against the norm for all my welding, but it has always worked. My first big welding project was a tube chassis Porsche 914-6 race car. That was 20 years ago and last I checked it was still rock solid.

 

[RustyLinkz]

I struggle with uphills too. I tend to go against the norm for all my welding, but it has always worked. My first big welding project was a tube chassis Porsche 914-6 race car. That was 20 years ago and last I checked it was still rock solid.

That’s a rad first project!

 

[Rednexus]

I’m slightly behind schedule. I wanted this done and driving by June 8 to get to Valley Hybrids swap meet. We’ll see if I can get it done.
Engine mounts took longer than expected, body mounts were easy.
I looked into buying a tank of Argon but it costs $1000 for the tank and gas. Costs $400 to rent, but I haven’t set up an account with the local welding supply shop… looks like I’ll be FCAW this whole thing.
Traveling to Bend, OR this weekend for some lady time. Next step whyen I get home is finish welding the frame with paint and mock up steering gear box.

You might want to try other welding supply shops. I purchased a brand new 80 CF tank from here for around $230 shipped to my door. My local welding supply shop filled it with argon/CO2 mix for $80, which should last for around 40 hours of welding. I rebuilt a 4x8 trailer with it and have plenty left.

Not every supply shop will fill cylinders, some will make you rent them. Or some shops will make you exchange the tank. Buying the tank new online was around $150 cheaper than buying a new tank from the welding supply shop. That's a big job to do with flux core wire; running MIG with gas will save you on wire and on grinding/cleanup time.

 

[RustyLinkz]

You might want to try other welding supply shops. I purchased a brand new 80 CF tank from here for around $230 shipped to my door. My local welding supply shop filled it with argon/CO2 mix for $80, which should last for around 40 hours of welding. I rebuilt a 4x8 trailer with it and have plenty left.

Not every supply shop will fill cylinders, some will make you rent them. Or some shops will make you exchange the tank. Buying the tank new online was around $150 cheaper than buying a new tank from the welding supply shop. That's a big job to do with flux core wire; running MIG with gas will save you on wire and on grinding/cleanup time.

Thanks for that info dude. I think I’ll go that path. I’ll have to find a new welding supply shop. Maybe more of a “mom and pop” place. I’ve noticed a few machine shops close or change locations around me in the last few years. It’s a bummer because Redwood City used to have some cool industrial areas. I even talked to an owner of a now automotive repair shop, he said they used to build tanks for the war in that shop in the 30s and 40s. Now most of the town is apartments and posh boutiques.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Catching up at the end of week 6 I believe.
Frame is done and welded to the old frame. Found an old welding tank lying around so exchanged that with a local shop for a new one filled. 40 cu ft I believe. $200, not bad.
Inside of the new frame to old frame is fish plated/ plug welded. Outside has some triangular bracing to the body mount. Anyone wanna wager if it cracks or not? Over/under 1 year of wheeling

Pulled the transfer case yesterday. It’s getting a spool for part time 4wd and a shorter low range gear set from Marlin.

Ok I have a problem. I went to pull the rear 3rd out and it seems stuck on something. I’ve heard you need to lock the rear diff on some applications in order to pull the diff out but I can’t do that anymore because my tcase is already removed and I don’t have the pin 7 mod for lockers in high range…
I was able to manually lock my 8” elocker on my 4runner by removing the motor and getting a screw driver into the gear and sliding it open or locked.
Is there a way to manually lock the diff by taking the motor off? Or am I stuck on something else?

 

[kevgentile]

Looking good! You're doing well with the flux.
I'm always over cautious and tend to do more than is probably necessary, I might throw some vertical gussets at the new longitudinal and flat bar.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Looking good! You're doing well with the flux.
I'm always over cautious and tend to do more than is probably necessary, I might throw some vertical gussets at the new longitudinal and flat bar.

I found welding gas! It had been a few years since I've used gas for welding. Using 75% Ar and 25% Co2. Still a little splatter.
But not a bad idea. I'll be bracing it more when I build a Panhard bar and I still need to protect the underside of the radiator. I'm thinking that will tie into the front bumper somehow. I'd like the get a tube bender to start making bumpers as well. Lord knows I'll need to figure out how to mount a 40" tire to my Kaymar swing-out with tubing somehow.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Finished the low range gear swap and spool for the transfer case last week. Now that the frame is done and the case is back behind the trans, I can start mocking up the links and steering. I cycled the CDL switch and everything is working properly. Part time conversion complete.
I swapped the Slee belly skid plate for the trail tailor skid as well. I’m loosing some protection but I’ll have more negotiating room for the lower/ upper frame side link brackets. And the lower links should act as a quasi- skid.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Didn’t attach these:

 

[RustyLinkz]

Peaks and valleys like anything in life, if something goes according to plan you missed a step.

Turns out the 5.29 ring gear won’t fit on a UZJ100 elocker carrier (rear diff)
After speaking to @hoser, it appears that I need to acquire an 80 series e-locker carrier and swap my 100 side gears on that to retain 32 spline while using the 80 series R&P.
Doesn’t seem like that’s easy to track down, so putting my feelers out here if anyone following has one that they are looking to sell or trade for a UZJ100 elocker carrier. Strange trade, I know.