100 Series Lift Reliability (1 Viewer)

[BigFatHundo]

I just bought a 2000 LC that is in great condition with absolutely zero rust or mods. It has 218,000 miles but a robust service history. I love the Land Cruiser, and especially the 100 series with the 2UZ-FE motor because of its bulletproof reliability.

My question to the forum is, if money were no object, what needs to be included as part of a lift to maintain or improve factory reliability and ride?

Right now, I have the following parts list. Please let me know what I'm missing. I don't know much about this and I'm trying to learn all I can so I can do it right the first time.

• Dobinson's 100 Series Torsion Bars
• Dobinson's 3-Way Adjustable Front and Rear Shocks
• Dobinson's Rear Coil Springs
• SPC Upper Control Arms
• Dobinson's Diff Drop Kit
• Dobinson's Adjustable Rear Upper Trailing Arms
• Dobinson's Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms

 

[hoser]

Lift with factory reliability? The answer is actually "Body Lift."

Anything adjustable or changes the CV angles will be less reliable. Anything that changes the spring rate without additional weight will not ride as well.

 

[BigFatHundo]

Lift with factory reliability? The answer is actually "Body Lift."

Anything adjustable or changes the CV angles will be less reliable. Anything that changes the spring rate without additional weight will not ride as well.

I am planning on adding additional weight. I have a set of Dobinson's drawers, a Front Runner roof rack, Slee slider steps, and a full steel Slee skid plate kit that I am going to move from my 1999 to the new one. I am also considering front and rear bumpers but am unsure right now.

I don't pretend to understand the suspension system on the 100, but I have had lifted GM trucks before and there were kits to drop everything down to maintain factory angles. I was hoping that what I listed above would serve a similar purpose on the LC.

I hate when things break and I want to keep it as reliable and comfortable as possible while improving capability where I can.

 

[diego355]

Add to your list
OME 100 Series Front Torsion Bar Reinforcement Bracket
Part# OME FK27

 

[BigFatHundo]

Add to your list
OME 100 Series Front Torsion Bar Reinforcement Bracket
Part# OME FK27

Thank you!

 

[hoser]

AFAIK, there are no "off the shelf" drop brackets for the 100. As for suspension, I think go for "purpose built." And since you already have a 100, you probably have an idea of your usage. Once you have a plan, you can decide on suspension needs.

 

[ga12r1]

I would keep the factory torsion bars and run a custom valved 2.5 monotube shock from someone like King. The larger piston will give you superior damping plus a great ride.
As far as rear spring I would run the lightest spring possible that still gives you the ride height you want.
This will let the suspension move freely while the shocks control it.
I want my suspension to easily and fully move without being handcuffed by an overly stiff spring.
Let the shocks do what they ware supposed to do, control the springs.

Also without knowing what’s has or hasn’t been done, every bushing on the truck needs replacing. Every single one. That should be a priority.

 

[GerLC100]

if money is no objection = more or less a full front refresh for all plastics/ moving parts:
- bushings/ ball joint LCA
- knuckle rebuild (as you have it in your hand already; wheel bearings, seals, bushing, needle bearing, and while you're on it new perhaps rotors/pads [I went with DBA])
- diff bushings
- steering rack bushings (or new steering rack; depending on condition)
- tie rods
- new CVs and flanges
- clean and paint everything while it's out (I used POR 15)
- if you're into it or are opening the brake system already: extended brake lines
- sway bar bushings and perhaps extended sway bar links

 

[GTV]

Trail Tailor extended sway bar end links.

I have the same goals in mind so I only raised the suspension 3/4”, along with my diff drop I retain factory CV angles and longevity. That also negates the need for problematic aftermarket upper control arms. A 1/2” body lift allows me to fit 35” tires with ease. Factory components are the most durable and longest lasting for most applications.

 

[BigFatHundo]

I would keep the factory torsion bars and run a custom valved 2.5 monotube shock from someone like King. The larger piston will give you superior damping plus a great ride.
As far as rear spring I would run the lightest spring possible that still gives you the ride height you want.
This will let the suspension move freely while the shocks control it.
I want my suspension to easily and fully move without being handcuffed by an overly stiff spring.
Let the shocks do what they ware supposed to do, control the springs.

Also without knowing what’s has or hasn’t been done, every bushing on the truck needs replacing. Every single one. That should be a priority.

Thank you. How much trouble is it to replace the bushings? I'm very new to this, but is it something a normal guy could do in his garage? Or should I plan on letting Toyota or the guy installing the lift replace them?

My plan is to drop the truck off at Toyota on day 1 and say "Pretend like this truck has no record of having ever been serviced and do everything that needed to be done from new to now"

 

[BigFatHundo]

Trail Tailor extended sway bar end links.

I have the same goals in mind so I only raised the suspension 3/4”, along with my diff drop I retain factory CV angles and longevity. That also negates the need for problematic aftermarket upper control arms. A 1/2” body lift allows me to fit 35” tires with ease. Factory components are the most durable and longest lasting for most applications.

You have 35s on a 3/4" lift and a 1/2" body lift? Do you ever rub when wheeling or at full lock? What kind of wheels and tires do you have?

 

[GerLC100]

Bushings really depend on how handy you are and if you’re willing to buy the tools needed. I’m about to do my diff bushings this weekend: hammer and chisel as well as a ball joint press.
Lower control arm is the next tool kit and, depending on how bad yours look, it can cost some time.

To do that kind of refresh you got to be willing and able to disassemble your front end. Specific tools like a ball joint press (150$?) and a bushing removal set of amazon (70-80$?) are those I needed.

Knuckle rebuild you got to be able to press in/ out bearings and seal. Swar bar is easy going, standard tool set.

I’d suggest to watch some videos for those topics mentioned on youtube and decide whether or not you’re willing to tackle it. For most of them you find multiple videos and see how different people do it and what they use.

 

[Exiled]

I have a slightly different perspective, perhaps because I have two '99 UZJ100s that I can compare.

My "war machine" had a full OME suspension change back in 2008 (so going on 16 years and 180K miles of roads and trails all over the US), including a Slee diff drop kit but OEM UCAs. Since then I've replaced the OME shocks with newer ones (circa 2018) and added Trail Tailor sway bar extensions and PerryParts bump stops (huge upgrade). I run OME heavy coils in the back as the truck serves as a ranch vehicle and often carries heavy loads, and even unloaded she's a heavy girl *(front and rear bumpers, winch, steel wheel on the 35" spare, roof rack, RTT, and recently an LRA auxiliary fuel tank). The truck rides GREAT, much better than a stock UZJ100 and that's not just my opinion (or my wife's), but that of several of you that have had a chance to drive the truck. I consider my truck's suspension to be as reliable as the stock suspension was (or more) and the 16 years of roads and trails and 180K miles on the "new" suspension have proved that out, never had any issues other than bending a rear lower link (twice), and that's just user error.

I just bought MetalTech 4x4 lower links yesterday (one of my OEM ones is bent, the second one from the same side). I will also be buying a Delta Vehicle Systems rear panhard bar drop bracket to install at the same time as the lower links.

I am not a big fan of body lifts, but that's just a personal opinion based on the cosmetics. Never had one on any of my Land Cruisers so it's not an opinion based on experience.

If I was doing this all over again, I would do a full Dobinson suspension kit (including UCAs) with the Slee diff drop kit, the Trail Tailor sway bar extensions, MetalTech arms and Delta panhard bar drop bracket, plus the PerryParts bump stops. If I was replacing the suspension on my war machine, I'd go heavy on the rear coils. If I was doing this for my "city mouse" UZJ100, I'd get medium coils. By the way, the latter came to me with an OME "light" suspension (torsion bars, coils and shocks, no other component) which frankly rides like crap compared to my other 100. Eventually, I'd like to do a full Dobinson suspension on it but that's low priority for a daily driver that may exit the fleet at some point.

 

[ga12r1]

Thank you. How much trouble is it to replace the bushings? I'm very new to this, but is it something a normal guy could do in his garage? Or should I plan on letting Toyota or the guy installing the lift replace them?

My plan is to drop the truck off at Toyota on day 1 and say "Pretend like this truck has no record of having ever been serviced and do everything that needed to be done from new to now"

Keep in mind some components like trailing arms(rear links), panhard bars and even in cases LCAs and UCAs can be purchased new from Toyota loaded with new bushings or bushings and balljoints cheaper than buying new bushings and Bjs and having the olds ones pressed in and out.
If you don’t do the work yourself it can get super expensive. If you are doing all the bushings front and rear and don’t want to buy all the things you may need for press work, buying the complete bolt in replacement isn’t that bad of an option.
You’ll still save vs going to a shop either way.
-
Also Toyota doesn’t always sell the bushings separate front the arms. In that case you have to use an aftermarket rubber bushing and they will never last like oem.
-
I don’t have a single piece of rubber on my truck at this point. It’s either poly, heim, or JJ. And it’s tight as a tick and laser precise. That’s also an option. I use Superpro and they have a lifetime warranty. But most will tell you they wont give a factory ride. For me it doesn’t matter. The preciseness and lack of deflection make up for it. But it’s different for everyone

 

[BigFatHundo]

I have a slightly different perspective, perhaps because I have two '99 UZJ100s that I can compare.

My "war machine" had a full OME suspension change back in 2008 (so going on 16 years and 180K miles of roads and trails all over the US), including a Slee diff drop kit but OEM UCAs. Since then I've replaced the OME shocks with newer ones (circa 2018) and added Trail Tailor sway bar extensions and PerryParts bump stops (huge upgrade). I run OME heavy coils in the back as the truck serves as a ranch vehicle and often carries heavy loads, and even unloaded she's a heavy girl *(front and rear bumpers, winch, steel wheel on the 35" spare, roof rack, RTT, and recently an LRA auxiliary fuel tank). The truck rides GREAT, much better than a stock UZJ100 and that's not just my opinion (or my wife's), but that of several of you that have had a chance to drive the truck. I consider my truck's suspension to be as reliable as the stock suspension was (or more) and the 16 years of roads and trails and 180K miles on the "new" suspension have proved that out, never had any issues other than bending a rear lower link (twice), and that's just user error.

I just bought MetalTech 4x4 lower links yesterday (one of my OEM ones is bent, the second one from the same side). I will also be buying a Delta Vehicle Systems rear panhard bar drop bracket to install at the same time as the lower links.

I am not a big fan of body lifts, but that's just a personal opinion based on the cosmetics. Never had one on any of my Land Cruisers so it's not an opinion based on experience.

If I was doing this all over again, I would do a full Dobinson suspension kit (including UCAs) with the Slee diff drop kit, the Trail Tailor sway bar extensions, MetalTech arms and Delta panhard bar drop bracket, plus the PerryParts bump stops. If I was replacing the suspension on my war machine, I'd go heavy on the rear coils. If I was doing this for my "city mouse" UZJ100, I'd get medium coils. By the way, the latter came to me with an OME "light" suspension (torsion bars, coils and shocks, no other component) which frankly rides like crap compared to my other 100. Eventually, I'd like to do a full Dobinson suspension on it but that's low priority for a daily driver that may exit the fleet at some point.

Thanks for your response. Comfort and reliability are paramount and it sounds like you've done a good job figuring that out.

 

[BigFatHundo]

Keep in mind some components like trailing arms(rear links), panhard bars and even in cases LCAs and UCAs can be purchased new from Toyota loaded with new bushings or bushings and balljoints cheaper than buying new bushings and Bjs and having the olds ones pressed in and out.
If you don’t do the work yourself it can get super expensive. If you are doing all the bushings front and rear and don’t want to buy all the things you may need for press work, buying the complete bolt in replacement isn’t that bad of an option.
You’ll still save vs going to a shop either way.
-
Also Toyota doesn’t always sell the bushings separate front the arms. In that case you have to use an aftermarket rubber bushing and they will never last like oem.
-
I don’t have a single piece of rubber on my truck at this point. It’s either poly, heim, or JJ. And it’s tight as a tick and laser precise. That’s also an option. I use Superpro and they have a lifetime warranty. But most will tell you they wont give a factory ride. For me it doesn’t matter. The preciseness and lack of deflection make up for it. But it’s different for everyone

I have no idea how to do that, but I would like to learn. Might be a fun thing for my dad and I to do together with my oldest daughter since she loves helping and loves the Land Cruiser.

Can I buy a complete set of the bushings from Superpro?

 

[ga12r1]

I have no idea how to do that, but I would like to learn. Might be a fun thing for my dad and I to do together with my oldest daughter since she loves helping and loves the Land Cruiser.

Can I buy a complete set of the bushings from Superpro?

You can. But again. If factory “comfort” is what you’re looking for you can’t beat oem rubber bushings. So I’m not necessarily recommending poly. They don’t insulate from vibrations like the rubber. Like I said there’s a compromise. I run 37s on a non-daily off-road rig. Although it’s comfortable to me, and I drive it from Ga to Colorado and Utah a few times a year, It might not be to you. It’s worth any trade off or compromise for my s***uation though.
If you do decide to do any poly Superpro is actually having a 20 off sale right now. That’s rare. They also have extended anti-sway links that everyone seems to be enamored with too.

Products

SuperPro is an innovative manufacturer of automotive polyurethane suspension bushings, control arms, sway bars and other suspension components for both 4x4 and performance vehicles.

superprousa.com

 

[GTV]

You have 35s on a 3/4" lift and a 1/2" body lift? Do you ever rub when wheeling or at full lock? What kind of wheels and tires do you have?

Correct. So far I have massaged the plastic around the pinch welds and that took care of most of it. No rubbing at full lock, not even close. I should get a little more agressive on the pinch welds but it hasn’t been a priority yet. I have RW’s with 1/4” spacers (+44) and 35x11.50’s.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Poly bushings are as anti-comfort as you can get.

Poly bushings exist primarily because they're cheap to make in small quantities (you can make them at home even) so aftermarket companies love to sell them in bright colors and market them as "performance upgrades". Rubber bushings are far more comfortable and even in factory supercars you don't see manufacturers use poly because it's just too harsh and creates a major squeak risk. Rubber is just the better material for the job - especially when the goal is comfort.

If reliable comfort is the goal, OEM shocks, no/minimal lift. OEM control arms. OEM ball joints. OEM torsion bars (unless you're throwing on a big steel bumper and winch). OEM everything unless you have a very specific need that invalidates the OEM part.

I think the list in the first post is kinda like an outline for "Items needed to make my ride less comfortable less reliable than factory". I had SPC control arms. Forget them. Factory arms with factory ball joints. That's the premium option.

 

[ga12r1]

Poly bushings are as anti-comfort as you can get.

Poly bushings exist primarily because they're cheap to make in small quantities (you can make them at home even) so aftermarket companies love to sell them in bright colors and market them as "performance upgrades". Rubber bushings are far more comfortable and even in factory supercars you don't see manufacturers use poly because it's just too harsh and creates a major squeak risk. Rubber is just the better material for the job - especially when the goal is comfort.

If reliable comfort is the goal, OEM shocks, no/minimal lift. OEM control arms. OEM ball joints. OEM torsion bars (unless you're throwing on a big steel bumper and winch). OEM everything unless you have a very specific need that invalidates the OEM part.

I think the list in the first post is kinda like an outline for "Items needed to make my ride less comfortable less reliable than factory". I had SPC control arms. Forget them. Factory arms with factory ball joints. That's the premium option.

100% agree with everything, except I think heims are a little more anti-comfort than poly