Haha well yeah. Johnny joint and heim take the cake I guess, haha.100% agree with everything, except I think heims are a little more anti-comfort than poly
100 Series Lift Reliability (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BigFatHundo
- Start date
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Keep in mind some components like trailing arms(rear links), panhard bars and even in cases LCAs and UCAs can be purchased new from Toyota loaded with new bushings or bushings and balljoints cheaper than buying new bushings and Bjs and having the olds ones pressed in and out.
If you don’t do the work yourself it can get super expensive. If you are doing all the bushings front and rear and don’t want to buy all the things you may need for press work, buying the complete bolt in replacement isn’t that bad of an option.
You’ll still save vs going to a shop either way.
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Also Toyota doesn’t always sell the bushings separate front the arms. In that case you have to use an aftermarket rubber bushing and they will never last like oem.
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I don’t have a single piece of rubber on my truck at this point. It’s either poly, heim, or JJ. And it’s tight as a tick and laser precise. That’s also an option. I use Superpro and they have a lifetime warranty. But most will tell you they wont give a factory ride. For me it doesn’t matter. The preciseness and lack of deflection make up for it. But it’s different for everyone
wow i forgot about superpro from my Subaru STI days .. didn't think about upgrading to superpro components on the cruiser. definitely going to look into this.
Where in GA are you?
What are you going to do with the truck?
IMO, with a built 100 and 20/20 hindsight, I would modify as little as possible for your purposes. There's a big value to the comfort of a 100 on stock suspension. I'd avoid poly bushings, avoid jonny joints, keep OEM rubber wherever possible. And, I'd echo others who've said you'll lose 100% factory reliability (as in long term; your new Dobinsons shocks aren't going to fall off in 10k miles or anything) as soon as your start changing settings. Agree with Lee on keeping OEM torsion bars.
What are you going to do with the truck?
IMO, with a built 100 and 20/20 hindsight, I would modify as little as possible for your purposes. There's a big value to the comfort of a 100 on stock suspension. I'd avoid poly bushings, avoid jonny joints, keep OEM rubber wherever possible. And, I'd echo others who've said you'll lose 100% factory reliability (as in long term; your new Dobinsons shocks aren't going to fall off in 10k miles or anything) as soon as your start changing settings. Agree with Lee on keeping OEM torsion bars.
- Thread starter
- #24
I live in Powder Springs. Ms Terry (my LC) is currently up at Well Sorted in Cumming getting the front end rebuilt. I did mention replacing all of the bushings with OEM rubber. A lot of the new parts will have new bushings but I told him to inspect all of the remaining ones. Here's the build currently.
Dobinsons 1.5" MRR 3-Way Adjustable Lift Kit
TB-59-1600 Heavy Duty Torsion Bars
C59-167 Rear Coil Springs
MRR 3-way adjustable shocks
Adjustable rear upper control arm
Adjustable rear lower control arm
Dobinsons Full Diff Drop
Extended Sway Bar Links
SPC Upper Control Arm
Torsion Bar Reinforcement Kit
Toyota OEM Lower Control Arm
Toyota OEM Tie Rod End
Toyota OEM Steering Rack
ARB Twin Air Compressor
ARB Front and Rear Air Lockers
Powerbrake D-Line rotor and pad kit
I am also moving from my 1999 the following
Front Runner Roof Rack
Dobinsons Drawers
Slee Slider Steps
Slee Skid Plates
285/75/16 Toyo Open Country Tires
Here are the maintenance items I have requested that he look into as well
Heater Tees
Timing Belt
Complete Fluid Change
Anything else? I really appreciate all of the advice I'm getting from this group.
Poly only makes sense for road racing where you don't want random movements while you're right on the edge of traction. I have no idea why you would ever want them on a vehicle like a landcruiser.
I'm in Kennesaw, there are a bunch of us around the area. Lemme know if you need a hand with stuff.
- Thread starter
- #27
Thanks! I usually only ride with the Rabun Toyota Club. Would love to do some more locally, too.
Also, CV axles and new wheel bearings and seals got added to the list today.
Even then I've never understood it. I believe Porsche uses ball joints in place of rubber on their extreme GTX RS variants, but that's the only place I've heard of OEMs using anything other than rubber. The still-extreme, but not quite "RS" spec cars get rubber (pretty sure). And they're phenomenal track weapons.
I can understand it perfectly. While braking downshifting and turning all the rubber stretching and compressing would move the shifter several inches. Respectfully, you've probably never really driven a car close to the limit. When you are right at the limit any movement can push one or more tire from static into sliding friction and now you've maybe left the track.
I'm certainly no pro-race driver, but I've done a track day on dirt and had a slew of cars with a mix of poly and rubber bushings. I've definitely got limited experience taking a car on asphalt to the absolute limit for any continued length of time so you may be right. That's a lingering bucket list thing for me - regular track days.
Anyway, my point still stands. Many of the top Nurburgring lap times are rubber bushing cars, are they not? Porsche GT4 RS has a mix of rubber and ball joints. The GT2 and GT3 get fewer ball joints and more rubber. McLaren has poly on some sway bars, but I think all their shocks and arms are solid mounts or rubber - never poly, at least that I've seen.
I've swapped poly bushings on gear linkages and have a set of Marlin Crawlers on my old Supra right now. That's great. Anytime I've swapped suspension arm bushings for poly I've thought "this was a silly thing to do."
Completely agree. This is the conundrum I'm currently facing in building my Lexus SC. Everything available aftermarket is poly, and the only way to get a new ball joint AND rubber bushings is to just buy a complete OEM arm as their BJs aren't serviceable.
I swapped over after I was an hpde instructor. The biggest problem was missed shifts because the drive line was moving around so much. On the new double clutch and dog boxes I doubt that's an issue. I did some rally racing to and we always used rubber on dirt and most asphalt. Unless you're on a racetrack the road surface is probably going to disturb the car more than suspension flex.
Pro race cars aren't using poly either unless class rules make it the best solution. Also none of the top 5 lap times are even based on production cars. I doubt they have rubber or poly.
The top 10 fastest ever Nürburgring lap times | Evo
The Nürburgring Nordschleife has become a benchmark location for the modern performance car, and we’ve listed the top ten fastest ever laps
www.evo.co.uk
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