Rustoration Advice

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Grayscale said:
Start with the cowl seam, right by the windshield. Seal it up so it doesn't get worse there. Clean the inside of the door, and make certain that the doors drain freely. Install fresh weatherstrip in places that need it.

I'd care only about the rear body mounts (aka 'rear sil') - the truck needs to be solid from a structural standpoint. Original hardware for the spare tire carrier, doors, could be swapped for new hardware.

I'd clean it-up, soap, body-wax, and corrosion-inhibiting-oil. Paint the parts that need painting. Let someone else make a showroom truck, bling, candy-paint, leather interiors, etc. Keep it rugged and kind to the owner. Toyota didn't grind their body welds at the rear sil, but, typically, every restoration uses a sander and body filler, hiding factory spot welds, turning a pragmatic machine into a sculpture, as it is remanufactured / restored with different processes, materials, technologies. Keep it in the sprit of the original truck is my incination. However, I like what @Roastchestnuts did with his 40, as an example of spliced-in rust repairs; a sensible approach to body repairs in my mind.
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While welding is beyond me at present, I like the idea of doing as much work myself, as possible. I can handle the list of things you've outlined. I'm not looking to create a showroom piece, but do want to get the rust under control (to the degree possible).
 
I would find a local shop so you can see their work and talk to people that had work done by them and were happy.

I would make sure the drive train is in good shape first. It will drive a long time as a rust bucket if the running gear is good.

Cosmetics on a real working 4 wheel drive is sort of a waste of money. You got an elk down 6 miles in on an overgrown wash out logging trail and you need to get in and out before a storm dumps that closes the area until late spring at best - yea your cosmetics are going to take it in the shorts. On the other hand if all you do is drive to the local park and let folks admire the cosmetics should hold up really well a chick magnet. j/k
 
charliemeyer007 said:
I would find a local shop so you can see their work and talk to people that had work done by them and were happy.

I would make sure the drive train is in good shape first. It will drive a long time as a rust bucket if the running gear is good.

Cosmetics on a real working 4 wheel drive is sort of a waste of money. You got an elk down 6 miles in on an overgrown wash out logging trail and you need to get in and out before a storm dumps that closes the area until late spring at best - yea your cosmetics are going to take it in the shorts. On the other hand if all you do is drive to the local park and let folks admire the cosmetics should hold up really well a chick magnet. j/k
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Okay, that cracked me up. If I ever had any chick magnet days, they are way behind me now.

Mechanically, the truck is sound. In the 2-years I've owned her, I've rebuilt the carburetor and replaced the starter. Otherwise, no issues. I haven't had the drive chain checked, but I haven't any indications of issues.
 
Some of those spots are well past the grinder/wire wheel stage - but other spots don't look too bad. Unfortunately the worst area (or at least the worst spot in the pics you posted) is the rear sill/tub floor. It's already rusted through there - and the sill underneath may be on its way out as well. Many of the other areas could be wire wheeled and spot treated. Your rig seems relatively solid: a good candidate for some strategic patch panel work. This would allow you to retain the factory paint, which is something that many in this community really value. As they say: it's only original once. For any patched/repaired areas, a good paint shop can scan your existing paint and mix up something that will be an exact or near-exact match. With a little blending, you'll have a solid rig that retains its original, hard-earned character.
 
BBradford said:
I've seen OEM Floor Bed reproductions online. Is this what you're suggesting?
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Aftermarket panels are an option, but they come with risks as well. Often they'll need some tweaking to get them to fit. I was thinking more along the lines of cutting out just the areas that have rusted through and welding in smaller patches. Based on the few photos you've posted it's impossible to know which might be the best way to go.

Whatever you decide, I would think about replacing the carpet in the rear of the tub - the rust on the tub floor suggests that the carpet is holding moisture against the sheet metal, accelerating the rust.
 
We need more pics. Pics of the frt floors, and underneath. Rip that carpet or matt out of the rear, it looks like it's contributing to the rust issue, then post pics of the floor and fenderwells and the whole back end. Maybe some pics of the whole vehicle. Most of your pics are to close, we need to see it's overall condition for a more accurate assessment.
 
When you have rust between the seams on the cowl that's usually an indicator to me that a tub is too far gone. They dont usually rust along the cowl unless rust in other areas of the tub is pretty advanced. The rust is actually protruding out from deep in the spot weld areas. The only way to get rid of that is to remove the panels completely. Doable, but a lot of labor. With a aqualu tub the rust is gone forever.
 
If it is factory paint I would go the Fluid Film route and leave it alone. Too many of these rigs get butchered with body repairs that are not done well or never completed. Find the Patina thread for some options.
 
pb4ugo said:
We need more pics. Pics of the frt floors, and underneath. Rip that carpet or matt out of the rear, it looks like it's contributing to the rust issue, then post pics of the floor and fenderwells and the whole back end. Maybe some pics of the whole vehicle. Most of your pics are to close, we need to see it's overall condition for a more accurate assessment.
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I've pulled out the matt out of the back (but don't have pictures). Here are pics of the fenderwells:

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My family bought a landcruiser far worse looking than this in1993. We just did quick and dirty skimming with filler and fiberglass, 30 years later I am repairing it all the right way with a welder as I set out to do that and wanted to learn the skills. I’d say just fix rear sill or the worst areas during off season and take your time. That way you’ll enjoy it and be able to drive it. Mostly it appears as surface rust. I vote patina for most exterior but fixing rear sill correctly. Ditch the carpet.
 
What you're seeing for rust is the tip of the iceberg.

I don't know and I don't care what I've spent too get to this point for bodywork, but I blew past $50k a long time ago. Way way more than that on the vehicle in total.


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I'm also semi retarded, work my tits off, and spent the last 20 years dumping every dollar I could into a business and wanted to piss away money selfishly.
 
I meant pics of the inside rear floor and fenderwells, and an overall pics of the rear with the doors open. Looking at the new pics it appears to be in pretty good shape. The underneath looks OK.
Does the rear floor seem solid? Any holes? The external part of the rear sill doesn't look that bad, but the inside looks iffy. I'd scrub it, the maybe wire brush it to knock down some of the loose rust and assess how bad it is. It depends how deep you want to dive into it, and how much you want to do. Right now I'd clean it up as best you can. Someones already cleaned and painted spots on the driverside. You'll learn new skills and probably get some new tools. Folks around here will walk you thru projects. Look in the clubhouse section and see if there's other members close by for advice or help.
 
RevISK said:
Buy a gallon of Corrosion X and spray as that stuff down, get over the smell, and enjoy it.
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^^^this! The time lost spending $50k is priceless in a resto. Lots of good specimens for $50k that you can buy and drive/enjoy now. If you want a personal masochistic badge of honor dive in on full resto. Depends where you are in life and how you value the opportunity cost of money.
 
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