Running hot and out of ideas....

[surfpig]

New radiator, thermostat, hoses, silicone, and weather stripping on their way. I got 10,000 cst oil.

I checked, I have an unopened 30k cst tube (30ml) if you feel like goosing that viscosity a bit…

Not sure how the math works out with this stuff, but it will for sure be mo betta if you did equal parts each.

< edit > provided that you can drain all the goo out of the clutch. It’s a mess. If I recall, capacity is about 60ml?

Oh: take that gasket out and stick it in the freezer.

 

[alvarorb]

A blue hub and new silicone can keep the A/C on and cold where the old Eatons can’t keep up and the A/C kicks off - it’s pretty impressive. Night and day difference in my temps and the mod is mandatory, I’ve had milk thicker than the silicone it shipped with



Did you buy the weatherstripping that Landcruiser65 linked?

I got this: Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QQS7937?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

[John McVicker]

@alvarorb that's the same stuff I used when I put in a new radiator in November. Works fine.

 

[bj70bc]

yes... belt tension on the water pump pulley
and a new water pump
30k cst fluid in the fan
rinse the mud out of the rad fins....thoroughly with a garden hose
new rad fluid
new 82 deg thermo
force all the incoming air through the rad with foam
stone cold chillin

 

[landtank]

You might consider a set of my wedge belts.

 

[lexustruck]

You might consider a set of my wedge belts.

I didn’t know a decent aftermarket existed, let alone an improved belt. Nice

I’ll drop your link for you and save the other guys the search

High Torque Wedge Fan Belts for the 1FZ engine

These are a set of Wrapped Metric Wedge Fan Belts from Protorque. The kit contains 2 fan belts and 1 AC belt. With the increased demand of modded fan clutches and other accessories like a York compressor the standard v-belts are pushed to it's limits. These wedge belts are reinforced and wrapped...

landtankproducts.com

Also - site’s showing out of stock

 

[landtank]

Also - site’s showing out of stock

Thanks for that, in stock now

 

[alvarorb]

Update:
Early this morning, I took out the fan clutch, removed the o ring gasket and place the metal halves in the oven at 170° with the insides facing down, so it would drain all the old oil.

Two hours later, I turned off the oven and left the fan clutch inside. It’s been there for about 8 hours. I went to check on it and only a little bit of oil had drained. I saw a video on YouTube and his fan clutch drained about 36 ml or about 1.2 ounces. I have less than half an ounce. I think my blue Assin fan clutch was low on oil from the start.

Tomorrow I’ll dive in and change the radiator, hoses, thermostat and a new water pump.

 

[LongDuck]

In that case, tomorrow will be the day that pull your battery box in order to get to the DS lower bracket bolt, and will find that the round, circular depression in the bottom of the battery box you've removed is the perfect place to drill a 1.5" hole which will allow future-you to change the radiator in about half the time, using that new hole to access the lower bolt with every extension you own hooked together.

You're welcome, present-day-you!

 

[Broski]

In that case, tomorrow will be the day that pull your battery box in order to get to the DS lower bracket bolt, and will find that the round, circular depression in the bottom of the battery box you've removed is the perfect place to drill a 1.5" hole which will allow future-you to change the radiator in about half the time, using that new hole to access the lower bolt with every extension you own hooked together.
View attachment 3665396

You're welcome, present-day-you!

Nice I like !

 

[Fj80Ringo]

Here's an example of the oil, note the variety of weights available:

Team Associated Silicone Differential Fluid (2oz) (30,000cst) [ASC5457]

This is a 2oz bottle of a bottle of Team Associated Silicone Differential Fluid. Made in the USA exclusively for Team Associated by Lucas Oil Products.... ASC5457

www.amainhobbies.com

You can use whatever foam you feel comfortable with. I'd go with higher quality and resistance to heat/uv/etc. so that it lasts longer and is less likely to break down. The foam isn't exposed to too much though so quality may not matter that much.

How much of this silicon would a person typically use for this project?

 

[alvarorb]

How much of this silicon would a person typically use for this project?

About 36ml or about an ounce

 

[alvarorb]

I’ve taken the truck on two test runs and the temperature is holding steady at 186°F. At traffic lights it climbs all the way up to 190°F. I call this intervention a success. Thank you for all of your help.

 

[Fj80Ringo]

Way to go. My 1997 is running pretty warm up here in Redding. I hope to drive my rig to Colorado with my brother and his HDJ80 next year and I want my cooling system to be at its best. I am planning on replacing most of my cooling system as soon as the parts finish coming in. I am shopping for a new OEM radiator at this time. I appreciate your time and am glad you got your cooling issues worked out. I love my rig.

 

[alia176]

I’ve taken the truck on two test runs and the temperature is holding steady at 186°F. At traffic lights it climbs all the way up to 190°F. I call this intervention a success. Thank you for all of your help.

which radiator did you go with?

 

[alvarorb]

which radiator did you go with?

I went OEM brass

 

[80t0ylc]

I went OEM brass

How did you determine that? OEM replacement for a 1996 or 1997 US spec Land Cruiser is aluminum fins with plastic tanks.

 

[Fj80Ringo]

Couple of things after just completing a 1300 mile road trip in 90+ degree heat. Loaded, auto climate control temp set to 75, highway temps steady at 194-198 at 65-70 mph for hours on end.

Denso is NOT the OEM for Toyota radiators. TRAD is the OEM.
Your local Toyota parts department will show 16400-66081 for the 1996 radiator, however 16400-66040 for the OBD1 FZJ80 fits as well and has better cooling capacity. That's what's in my 97 LX450 right now.
The OEM radiator cap (16401-54750 that comes with a new OEM radiator) is critical for proper cooling.
The OEM thermostat (90916-03117) starts to open at 180F (82C) and is fully open at 203F (95C). If your temps remain within this window, then the cooling system is operating properly.

The statements regarding the blue hub fan clutch modifications are also critical and can't be overlooked. Out of the box, a new blue hub is fairly weak and this has been documented multiple times. Both the amount of supplied fluid and port opening temps vary widely.
Several years ago I modded my blue hub according to my typical driving conditions here in the northeast. I would strongly suggest you do the same. Normal driving without AC on she sits at 186 all day. Winter cold/summer heat makes no difference.

I added thin self adhesive closed cell foam to the front side of the fan shroud to get a tighter seal on the radiator.
As previously stated, the upper and lower foam that is supplied with the new radiators is also important to keep air flowing through the radiator as opposed to around it.

Another thing that shouldn't be overlooked is the thin metal pan that sits under the very front of the chassis (51441-60200) and has a cut out for the steering damper mount. This also helps to direct airflow at speed.

NOTE: Some will say (mostly Facebook knuckleheads) that the engine fan does nothing at highway speeds. This is 100% incorrect. These engines cannot stay cool without a properly operating fan clutch at any speed.

Thanks for the info on the OBD1 radiator. I have a 1997 FZJ and am going to fire the parts cannon at the cooling system tomorrow. The 66040 radiator is also 60 bux cheaper than the 66081. I am trying to find a dealer with free shipping now. Haha. Shopping for a harmonic balancer now too. May as well.......

 

[OGBeno]

How did you determine that? OEM replacement for a 1996 or 1997 US spec Land Cruiser is aluminum fins with plastic tanks.

16400-66040 works on all 80’s with 1FZ-FE/ATM, regardless of year/market.

 

[80t0ylc]

16400-66040 (OEM brass) works on all 80’s with 1FZ-FE/ATM, regardless of year/market.

I thought the point of this thread (and really most radiator threads) is to use the best performing radiator that you can. Sure, the old OBD I 80 series radiators will fit. But which cools better? Why did Toyota switch from the 3 row copper/brass to the 2 row aluminum in 1995? I kinda think it was because the aluminum performs better in hot climates, even with only 2 rows as opposed to the previous copper/brass having 3 rows. That speaks volumes on aluminum vs brass, IMHO.