Builds RevISK’s ‘80 FJ40 - A Girl Named Norman

[RevISK]

The vinegar soak for the core worked a treat.
First dump after I deemed the time was good enough , was more nasty rudge (rust sludge) but subsequent dumps were clearer and clearer. Will still power flush tomorrow anyway.

Still looking for the hard pipe for the heater run as mentioned a few posts up. I’ve got about 3/4” of rot on the tip facing the firewall. For now, I filed off the stabby bits and shoved the new heater hose on there extra…

 

[TheHardWay]

Quick question…
Do any of you think it’s worth repainting the metal part of the heater box with high temp paint? Does it really get that hot?

My last 40 only spewed heat in a localized spot on my right ankle so I don’t have much of an idea of the overall thermal load this endures.

I used Krylon satin black on mine - not high temp - and haven't had a problem.

 

[RevISK]

Some updates, a few pics and a surprise find…

Got the heater box cleaned up, rebuilt and repainted. I used the SOR rebuild kit and was afraid to look in the mirror for fear of seeing “sucker” written across my forehead. Foam was cheap, hardware was cheap and different etc… if I have to do it again I will source my own parts.

Once I received the heater control valve and shutoff I installed those with new hose and proceeded to flush my system. Removed the lower radiator hose and put a big pan under there. Definitely some nasty stuff. Flushed from the top until it ran clear then flushed from the heater hoses in the cab until I was also getting clear flow. I was too nervous to pull the engine drain plug for fear of breaking it but I think I’m going to have to as when I went to refill the system, I topped off at 3 gallons. Ran it for awhile, took it around the block (heater works great) several times and the fluid level hasn’t dropped.

So, I guess I missed a pocket somewhere. Also, I don’t think my thermostat is opening up so I need to dig in to that as well.

Any thoughts on not getting everything out?

Freshly rebuilt heater box. I used caliper paint as I didn’t use the whole van on my calipers.

Parts drying

Fixed a crack in the heater vent tube(?)

And found this lil guy behind the AC console. Need to fiddle with it after I get this coolant thing figured out.

 

[RevISK]

Heater box installed

Shut off installed

Control valve installed

I need to get better hose clamps, these can be over torqued and deform the soft tubing. The ones that came in the SOR radiator hose kit are really nice:

“ABA Sweden”

 

[firemanj92]

The vinegar soak for the core worked a treat.
First dump after I deemed the time was good enough , was more nasty rudge (rust sludge) but subsequent dumps were clearer and clearer. Will still power flush tomorrow anyway.

Still looking for the hard pipe for the heater run as mentioned a few posts up. I’ve got about 3/4” of rot on the tip facing the firewall. For now, I filed off the stabby bits and shoved the new heater hose on there extra…

View attachment 3237611View attachment 3237614

BTB carries refurb'd ones. I thought City Racer had a few new ones laying around. Also ask @65swb45 - Mark of Marks Offroad, or @orangefj45 -Georg of Valley Hybrids and there is Cruiser Corps. I don't have a later model LC so I hope these parts help as they aren't on my 70 LC

Oil Cooler Pipe - OEM - FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60 1976-1987 - https://cruisercorps.com/products/oil-cooler-pipe-oem

FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 Side Engine Heater Tube Pipe B Used OEM 87248-60181 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980 - BTB Products - Land Cruiser Restoration and Parts - https://btbprod.com/product/fj40-side-engine-heater-tube-pipe-b-used-87248-60181-1975-1976-1977-1978-1979-1980/

Upper Oil Cooler Pipe for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/upper-oil-cooler-pipe-for-land-cruiser-fj40-fj60?_pos=2&_sid=051cce91d&_ss=r

OEM Lower Oil Cooler Pipe for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/oem-oil-cooler-lower-pipe-for-land-cruiser-fj40-fj60?_pos=3&_sid=051cce91d&_ss=r

OEM Oil Cooler Piping Kit for '81 to '87 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/oem-oil-cooler-piping-kit-for-land-cruiser-fj60

 

[RevISK]

BTB carries refurb'd ones. I thought City Racer had a few new ones laying around. Also ask @65swb45 - Mark of Marks Offroad, or @orangefj45 -Georg of Valley Hybrids and there is Cruiser Corps. I don't have a later model LC so I hope these parts help as they aren't on my 70 LC

Oil Cooler Pipe - OEM - FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60 1976-1987 - https://cruisercorps.com/products/oil-cooler-pipe-oem

FJ40 FJ45 FJ55 Side Engine Heater Tube Pipe B Used OEM 87248-60181 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980 - BTB Products - Land Cruiser Restoration and Parts - https://btbprod.com/product/fj40-side-engine-heater-tube-pipe-b-used-87248-60181-1975-1976-1977-1978-1979-1980/

Upper Oil Cooler Pipe for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/upper-oil-cooler-pipe-for-land-cruiser-fj40-fj60?_pos=2&_sid=051cce91d&_ss=r

OEM Lower Oil Cooler Pipe for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/oem-oil-cooler-lower-pipe-for-land-cruiser-fj40-fj60?_pos=3&_sid=051cce91d&_ss=r

OEM Oil Cooler Piping Kit for '81 to '87 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 - https://www.cityracerllc.com/products/oem-oil-cooler-piping-kit-for-land-cruiser-fj60

@firemanj92 Thank you, this does help as I now know the nomenclature. I believe that I need the Lower side pipe eventually. It’s not dire as I was able shove the hose on passed the rot and I have no leaks (yet).

Currently trying to get the entire system drained.
For the life of me this is all I can get out:

I have the lower radiator hose off, cap off and just removed the upper hose from the thermostat housing. Heater valve is full open and I’ve run the engine at high rpm’s several times.

Could a stuck thermostat limit the dump?

 

[fjc-man]

@firemanj92 Thank you, this does help as I now know the nomenclature. I believe that I need the Lower side pipe eventually. It’s not dire as I was able shove the hose on passed the rot and I have no leaks (yet).

Currently trying to get the entire system drained.
For the life of me this is all I can get out:
View attachment 3246630

I have the lower radiator hose off, cap off and just removed the upper hose from the thermostat housing. Heater valve is full open and I’ve run the engine at high rpm’s several times.

Could a stuck thermostat limit the dump?

How about the block drain on the left side of the block?

 

[RevISK]

How about the block drain on the left side of the block?

I’m scared to break it to be honest but I’m about to give it a go.

 

[RevISK]

Well, I put my big boy pants on and was able to crack that nut without any catastrophic consequences. More is coming out but I’m on a hill facing downward so about to roll forward onto level-ish ground. I want to see 4 gallons + come out before I start flushing.

Ian

 

[RevISK]

Well, I never got my 4 gallons out from the system but I did learn a few things via trial and error and from the encouragement of this forum.

1st thing of value is that once you pull the plug from the engine block it really just trickles, but I learned that if you shoot a few couple long seconds of air in there, it really encourages the mud to come out.

2nd, if you aren’t using any vacuum assist tools to help the process, elevation changes help a lot. I raised and lowered the truck in as many ways as my driveway (and my neighbors) would allow. I saw much increased flow with different attitudes on how my engine sat.

3rd… there has got to be a better way. I would gladly spend $200 on a thing that makes this more efficient.

I never completely flushed my system but I definitely got closer.

First flush left, second flush right.

In all, I enjoyed my time working on my 40. I know I am bettering this truck with every step.

1980 fj40 on the left, 2014 tundra on the right.

 

[RevISK]

For S hits and giggles… here is the converted horse stable where I stow and work on my 40.
The horse that resided here was named “Java”.
The structure is made primarily of elevator panels taken from the Driskel Hotel in the 60’s…

 

[RevISK]

All tucked away. Normally, I’m a backer inner, but the prevailing winds blow the exhaust into here so I pull in forward. Plus it allows me more light to work in the engine bay.

 

[65swb45]

MAN! That flush looks like a very worthy thing in your case. The visible results of the second flush serve as very satisfying and tangible proof that what you went through was appropriate.

 

[RevISK]

MAN! That flush looks like a very worthy thing in your case. The visible results of the second flush serve as very satisfying and tangible proof that what you went through was appropriate.

Thank you kind sir,

The first flush is a tad deceiving as it sat for a day, there was a good 1” of rusty deposits settled at the bottom. But sure felt good to see all that come out.
Will flush again when I swap out the thermostat as I don’t believe it’s opening up.

The earliest the cooling system was flushed was probably ’92 and that’s being generous. The truck sat for at least a couple decades in a barn covered in other random junk before it came to me.

Slowly nursing this baby back to life…

On to the steering system and linkages with a likely power steering box rebuild in my future.

Ian

 

[RevISK]

I definitely need to rebuild the power steering box.
Looks like it’s a Saginaw 808 judging by the 3.5” diameter at the piston (?) cover.

1st question: Which, if any, supporting vendors on this forum sell the rebuild kit? I’m not scared to do it myself as I’ve rebuilt modern camera lenses and from what videos I’ve watched, it’s less complicated albeit, way messier.

2nd question: based on this picture, can someone confirm I have the 808 series?

3rd: Is this the correct pitman arm?

When I pull the PS box, I will properly box in the frame and mount the whole shebang more appropriately.

Thanks,
Ian

 

[orangefj45]

I’d suggest reaching out to RedHead Steering for the rebuild kit and 4x4Labs for their top notch PS box mounting bracket kit.

Hope that helps.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[RevISK]

I’d suggest reaching out to RedHead Steering for the rebuild kit and 4x4Labs for their top notch PS box mounting bracket kit.

Hope that helps.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

Thank you sir, appreciate it.

Ian

 

[RevISK]

Trying out Fluid Film.
It was so humid this morning that even under cover the entire 40 was soaked.
Rust abatement only until all safety and drivability issues are sorted out then a few patches. Floorboards first, the only thing holding them up is the stuff that killed them in the first place…

 

[RevISK]

Lots of little things I’m plugging away at but getting a package from Paint Lick, KY was nice. Thanks Mark @Coolerman, looks great!

 

[RevISK]

Need to get a washer fluid pump but everything I’m seeing has the terminals at right angle to each other. Anyone know of the replacement for this? Tried to rebuild it cause I’m a sucker for keeping things going, no dice, it’s toast…