Builds RevISK’s ‘80 FJ40 - A Girl Named Norman (2 Viewers)

[tlc762]

Query:

what is this gold fined aluminum block thing?
It ohms out to the wire that comes off the pos terminal.

That most likely is a battery isolator to control/dual batteries... looks like someone expanded the factory tray for a second battery (over the starter area of the engine bay).
Welcome to the madness...
HTH, Will.

 

[RevISK]

That most likely is a battery isolator to control/dual batteries... looks like someone expanded the factory tray for a second battery (over the starter area of the engine bay).
Welcome to the madness...
HTH, Will.

Thanks, yeah it’s a big tray that is definitely in my way. It’s a pile of tetanus any way so it’ll go bye bye. Any harm in leaving that isolator there even if I don’t go back to dual batts?

 

[RevISK]

Back to the ballast resistor, can I bypass that for now? I’m not finding any locally available.

the coil looks new, I read somewhere here about testing it but of course can’t seem to find that page again. I’ll head to the googleverse but thought I’d try here again.

 

[tlc762]

Leaving the isolator shouldn't cause any harm, but why leave it if has no purpose...

 

[RevISK]

Leaving the isolator shouldn't cause any harm, but why leave it if has no purpose...

Yeah, I’ll probably delete it once I figure out what should go where better.
Still just chasing down why I’m not getting a spark.

 

[RevISK]

Still chasing a spark. I replaced the coil and ballast resistor, nada.
Going to see if I can get a new HT cable for between the dizzy and coil over at Napa if that doesn’t work I’ll dig into the dizzy more.

What else could I be missing?

 

[RevISK]

Hey gang,

Figured I post a quick update with a question…

Got my 40 starting, running and stopping after much help from research here and just trial and error. Thanks to everyone who helped even if they didn’t know they did.

My question today is about sourcing the hardline that runs along the engine for the heater. Mine’s pretty cheesed up from sitting, naturally.

I was able to source the heater shutoff valve from O’reillys of all places (part # 84706, a Murray “heater fitting” and the heater control valve off of Ebay.

But this part is stumping me a bit (called SOR, no go)

I’ve seen it referenced as part 87249b in a thread here and nothing is turning up in my searches…

Any thoughts?

 

[RevISK]

The shutoff valve from O’Reilly

 

[RevISK]

Also, if you haven’t dug into this system, you probably should… granted, my 40 sat for years but this is a mess. Note the garden hose

 

[pb4ugo]

Also, if you haven’t dug into this system, you probably should… granted, my 40 sat for years but this is a mess. Note the garden hose View attachment 3236401

I think city racer and possibly toyota matt sells this heater control valve.

 

[RevISK]

I think city racer and possibly toyota matt sells this heater control valve.

I found the heater control valve on eBay. Looking for the hard pipe/line referenced a couple posts up.

 

[RevISK]

Just pulled the heater unit out to clean up/refurb while I wait for parts…
I bypassed the entire heating unit under the hood for now.

 

[RevISK]

The core and housing (shroud?) are surprisingly clean. The rig did come from Houston so I’m guessing the heater didn’t get used much…

 

[RevISK]

Anyone know where to get the replacement foam for the doors? The stuff around the core is actually in good shape, not coming off when rubbed and 99% all there…

 

[TheHardWay]

I didn't feel like hunting for thin foam, so I bit the bullet and ordered SOR's rebuild kit:

Used contact cement - turned out very well.

 

[RevISK]

I didn't feel like hunting for thin foam, so I bit the bullet and ordered SOR's rebuild kit:

View attachment 3236515

Used contact cement - turned out very well.

Awesome, thanks. Helps.

 

[RevISK]

Thanks to TheHardway for directing me to the foam rebuild kit at SOR (item #

186-77E

while not very cheap ($55), I’m hoping it’s of better foam than the stuff they put in 42 years ago. The kit contains all the replacement foam, screws and neoprene bushings, all of which I have, but might as well freshen up.

Since the power is out (central Texas ice storm) and the wife and kids went to the in-laws, I figured I’d work on cleaning up the core and heater box in the kitchen sink. Flushed the core with running water for maybe 15 times and I was still getting heavy rust sludge upon dumping. Letting the core soak with vinegar for awhile and I’ll rig up a pressure flusher with hose fittings to really flush it out tomorrow.

Soaking the doors with the residual adhesive in isopropyl alcohol to gum up all the old glue. I like to save my old hotel key cards for times like this when I need a non-marring scraper, learned this trick restoring vintage aluminum travel trailers. You can cut them to whatever shape you need and they hold a decent edge. Work well as caulk bead shapers too.

 

[RevISK]

The adhesive laden door soaking in alcohol and the aforementioned old hotel key card…

 

[RevISK]

Quick question…
Do any of you think it’s worth repainting the metal part of the heater box with high temp paint? Does it really get that hot?

My last 40 only spewed heat in a localized spot on my right ankle so I don’t have much of an idea of the overall thermal load this endures.

 

[RevISK]

Just a post to try out my signature…