Removing Tie Rod End (TRE) with OTC Tools (1 Viewer)

[75PIG]

Well, we are in the next step in replacing the axle seal. You guys have been very helpful. Lots of talk about using the BFH and heat on the TRE. Others have talked about OTC Tools and pickle forks. The question is:

Do the OTC tools work? Am I using them correctly? My son is working on this project and is needing some help. We have looked closely at "Coolerman's" excellent step-by-step on the knuckle rebuild along with "MerlinRidesAgain." Have not seen posts with the actual use of the OTC tools. Here is a suggestion by

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/253282-tie-rod-end-removal-tips-2.html

and the overwhelming winner was the BFH and the picklfork. Well, Amazon had the OTC bunch on sale for $97 for 5 OTC pullers. Did I swallow hook, line , and sinker?

My son posted in:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/753023-removal-factory-hubs-1975-fj55-free-locked-2.html

"We have continued farther into the axle. Now we have removed the cotter pin from the castle nut, but when first applying pressure with the tie rod separator we were seeing no movement in the rod and wanted to make sure we were doing this right. One question we had, was if we needed to first unbolt the 4 screws from the top of the knuckle? As that would then be free to move when we use the tie-rod separator. If it is possible to keep on the 4 bolts that would be preferred at this moment. If not we will proceed that way. Anyways, we were hoping to get some input on how people went at this, not wanting to do something that would wreck the system as we didn't seem movement when we first put on the tie-rod separator.
Also, with the bottom two pictures, we believe that there should be a rubber ring along the tie-rod separator that has deteriorated, would that be a problem with the approach we have taken so far?
And it also looks like there is a silicon sealant in the gaskets, but don't believe that is is supposed to be done this way? But thought we would ask and see if anyone had insight on this area, and if we are going to need to replace it with this or with new gaskets and seals to the trick? We weren't expecting this so thought we would ask and see what others have encountered."

With the following "eye candy." The next post provides more pictures. I think I need a new TRE or can I get these rebuilt. If not, who has a good product -- keeping in mind I need seals and/or bearings for the knuckle:

 

[75PIG]

More pictures of the OTC tools:

Rigger wrote:

Many places have it. Google OTC 7315A and it'll pop up. Do a bit of price shopping and Bingo! Add it to your tool kit.

I loosen, but do not remove, the castle nut. Then I use the OTC against the castle nut. That prevents the TRE from getting away from me when it pops loose. PB beforehand is helpful, too!

However, my part number is: 513241

Different number than above. Maybe why it does not line up quite right. A little too small.

 

[Poser]

What if you remove the castle nut?

The OEM separator that I use does not work with the castle nut installed.

 

[merlinridesagain]

Nice, pictures and glad you're making progress.

I used the tool in picture #1, it was cheap and available at amazon vs a 30 day wait. Although the one in the picture looks a bit nicer with two pivot points. You need to keep cranking. If there isn't any more thread left, move to the other pivot hole.

I really had to crank on mine and ended up snapping the pivot bolt. When it broke I did try the BFH approach, and TBH it didn't work for me. Which prompted me to find another pivot bolt and get the tool working again.

The only time I could see you needing the castle nut on is to protect the threads when using the BFH approach or if you run out of travel on the tool and it's bottomed out and still not popping the TRE.

For TREs I went with SOR's fuji joint:

http://www.sor.com/cat094.sor?tabpage=TAB2

some go with the 555 brand.

The other thing I learned on this job is to try and make a bearing retainer spreader to make taking them off easier than prying.

Good luck.

 

[Spike Strip]

The only TRE/Pitman/RRE puller you'll ever need:

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-8150-Coni...SMS0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1334630422&sr=8-2

Same as Snap-On CJ119B, at about one-third the price.

 

[kurtnkegger]

Did you apply any heat to the joint? Looks like there is a lot of oil sprayed around the TRE, but no indication of heat...Those TRE unions don't look like they're going to give up easily on you. Some fire, and a little hammer persuasion on the outer part of the arm might be needed to loosen the years of rust and corrosion bonding you are dealing with now.

 

[spotcruiser]

You're not trying to save that boot, so a pickle fork and a hammer will seperate it in short order.

 

[vfrer]

X2 on the pickle fork... easiest way to do it if you are just trying to get it apart and not re-use the TRE.

 

[75PIG]

All very good advice. Merlin... I will try more pressure. This tool fits the best and don't think it will break. Hopefully the pivot bolt is a bit more stout on the OTC than the one you were able to pick up. Thanks for the vendor list on the TRE. Recommend buying the kit versus individual? Did not know I would need new TRE.

If this does not work, next, remove the castle bolt and try the "other" OTC. Correct, will not be saving the TRE so no worry to 'bugger-it-up." Get it hot and see if it loosens. I only have propane,

Next, see if I can borrow a pickle fork. Hate to spend more money.... need new TREs now.

Thanks guys

Keep sending advice and looks like I should get some orange goop for sealing the hubs also when using the paper gaskets

 

[jbsax]

I used the tool in pic #1 to finally get mine loose. Advance auto has a kit similar to the one shown. Buy the kit, use it, and return it for full refund. I tried the pickle fork and propane heat. It finally broke loose with the pivot tool and persuasion from a bfh.

 

[cjgoode]

Do not buy the kit from Advance Auto, ask them for the tool rental, they have used ones they rent out and some of them are much much better quality then the ones they sell. Autozone also rents tools from the pickle fork to the press type. It is actually FREE just give a deposit and get it back wen done.

 

[merlinridesagain]

I was doing a complete front end rebuild so went for the kit.

I'd also start spraying down the steering rod and relay rod clamps so you can get the TRE off once it's free from the steering knuckle...

 

[reddingcruiser]

2X what kurtnkegger said. You don't need to get the part cherry red, you just need a few hundred thousanths expansion to free it up. Put the TRE under load with the puller first, add a little heat and it'll likely POP right out. If not, just a little love-tap on the end of the steering arm with your BFH should do the trick. At the end of the day, all you're trying to do is expand or 'distort' the hole just enough to allow it to lose it's grip on the TRE.

 

[subzali]

I use the one that looks like the one in the upper left hand corner of your box set. Works great with a little tap from the hammer once some force has been put on it...

 

[B y r o n]

I used a tool from HF that is similar to the one in the first picture. I installed the castle nut upside down to the end of the stud. Greased the pivot and contact points on the tool before putting it in place. The day before I'd tried just hammering it out after WD's latest remover to no affect. Today, lust loaded the tool with some pressure and then tapped the back of the tool behind the castle nut and it snapped free. I think the tension applied by the tool and then shocked by the hammer is the trick. Turning on the nut of the tool alone is more likely just to brake the tool, in my opinion. I actually got this tip from watching pitman arms being pulled.

 

[brian]

put the castle nut on upside down, run it down till it's flush with the top of the stud then give it a few cracks with ye ol hammer, not the big one just the middle sized one.
if you get a stubborn one, apply heat to the female side.

 

[Tancruiser]

I just smack them on the side with a good heavy hammer and they pop right off

 

[shelfboy1]

after 50 years of using a pickle fork im to old to change,i did get one for the air chisel that works pretty good.

 

[bikersmurf]

I just smack them on the side with a good heavy hammer and they pop right off

Hold one hammer beside the arm & hit the give the other side a sharp wack and watch it fall out... Usually I only loosen the nut so the rod doesn't hit the ground.

If you can't undo the nut after it has popped, push it up back in with a bottle jack.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

I have the one on the right side of that package.. never tears a boot, fits darn near everything.. back in the day OTC SPX sold it by itself.. not sure if they do anymore. Never used the one in the picture. maybe i "need" to buy a few tools...
it does go "Pop" pretty quick once it goes.. and annoyingly it uses a 16mm instead of a 17mm.

Edit.. Found it online.. OTC PN - Tie Rod Remover
Part Number: 7503
Had that tool almost 15 years.. LOVE IT..