Removal of Factory Hubs 1975 FJ55 - Free and Locked

[75PIG]

OK -- started this project a couple month ago but needed to get the FJ40 ready first. This got put on the back burner. Just getting back to it. Here is the original post/thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/743500-front-axle-inner-seals-leaking-1975-fj55.html

Don't recall getting a response to removal of what I think to be Factory Hubs. The "Free-Lock" cap appears to be welded (passenger and driver). Removed the 6 bolts thinking the hub would slide off. It does not separate from the shaft by pulling back on it. It will "wiggle" a little bit but something appears to be holding it in place.

Has anybody encountered this and can tell me how to remove the hub to get to the axle and snap ring/nut or whatever in my case?

See pictures below:

 

[75PIG]

Looks like this photo from 1975 has "locking Hubs" similar to what I have.

What do you all think. Hard to tell. However, still need to know how to take them off to start/finish my project.

Interestingly enough, the signal lights are pre-1975.

 

[lostmarbles]

I don't know how to remove them but here's more evidence that they are original equipment:



This is from an Owners Manual published in 1974,

 

[inkpot]

wow! I would of bet that they were aftermarket, but that sure makes it look like they are original. Maybe a non-USA market item? I thought all of the ones here were Asco/Aisin. Either way, I would figure they are worth replacing, as they are probably really hard to get parts for. I think the weld in the center of the cap does not look factory for anybody, so I would grind that off and see if you can pull the control cap off and get a clue on the internals. I would still expect an external snap ring on the end of the birf to retain it on the end. John

 

[lostmarbles]

Oh. Wait a minute............

Here ya go....................

1975 Chassis & Body FSM:

 

[lostmarbles]

and finally ....

 

[inkpot]

Dude! You are the man. Is your manual market specific? I wonder if they were only available in certain locations. So, for 75 PIG, I would bump that cap that you are holdilng in pic #2 around till of lifts off. You already have the 6 retailing bolts off, so go for it. You may have to pry around the bottom edge also to get it up. It may have been on there for a long, long time. Good luck, and keep us posted. John

 

[lostmarbles]

So with those 6 bolts out, the HANDLE (and only someone who does not have English as their principal language could call it that) should apparently just pull off..



PS. I think Toyota themselves made these hubs. And this poor early design is probably why they later left this job to other manufacturers..

 

[Pighead]

Yup. Had those on my '74 Pig. Seen a couple others, but only on Pigs, never on 40s. I destroyed one, figuring out how they were supposed to come apart.

 

[inkpot]

So with those 6 bolts out, the HANDLE (and only someone who does not have English as their principal language could call it that) should apparently just pull off..



PS. I think Toyota themselves made these hubs. And this poor early design is probably why they later left this job to other manufacturers..

Well, how about knob, dial, button, rotary activated device?!?!

 

[75PIG]

WOW! Thanks Lost Marbles -- How did you find that material? Appreciated. You would think that it would just pull off.... it doesn't.

I am going to try to knock it around with a rubber mallet to see if it will separate. I thought it should come off by pulling per the instructions. Will give it a go like Inkpot suggests.

Pighead --- do you recall if yours had the "welds" on the locking cap. Wondering if PO destroyed them as they tried to make a repair. They maybe put it back together with a weld and it is attached to something inside keeping it from coming off.

Thanks and will keep you posted. I have an inner seal leak to repair.

 

[skidplate]

If I'm looking at the factory pic correctly, it appears that it should separate at this point.......But I have been wrong many times, just ask my wife.

 

[inkpot]

If I'm looking at the factory pic correctly, it appears that it should separate at this point.......But I have been wrong many times, just ask my wife.

Agree. I would soak it with PBPlaster or whatever, even WD40 might help. Then tap lightly all around, trying to get it to wobble a wee bit and loosen up. Could try getting a pick/chisel/whatever behind the inside edge, but there is not much to get a purchase on. It WILL come off! It WILL come off! It WILL come off?:whoops:

 

[lostmarbles]

Yup. Had those on my '74 Pig. Seen a couple others, but only on Pigs, never on 40s. ......

The 1974 Owners Manual agrees because it lists the these hubs only for "station wagons" (aka pigs).

So I think that's why they're rare (rather than being anything to do with market destination).

WOW! Thanks Lost Marbles -- How did you find that material? Appreciated. ...

One of my obsessions is obtaining old land cruiser literature...

Well, how about knob, dial, button, rotary activated device?!?!

I'd just call it "casing assembly" or something like that.

(But defintitely not a "handle". LOL.)

 

[Pighead]

Pighead --- do you recall if yours had the "welds" on the locking cap. Wondering if PO destroyed them as they tried to make a repair. They maybe put it back together with a weld and it is attached to something inside keeping it from coming off.

Yes, spot welded from turning knob to something just underneath it. It's a very tight-fitting outer case of very thin metal over the innards. Soak it very well and slide the outer skin straight off.

 

[75PIG]

First of all, is this oil supposed to be here? We were anticipating grease for lubrication purposes for the locking/free hub, but there seems to be an abundance of gear oil that is around the inside of the locking hub.

We were able to pry off the "handle" (such a n-e-a-t word to describe this cover) of the locking hub but it took more than just pulling it off. We used a combination of a small screwdriver inserted into the front holes and prying it; alternating 180 degrees to another hole on front cover to get some movement of the "handle" off the locking mechanism. After this process created a bit of space, we used a larger screwdriver and mallet on the back of the "handle" and tapped the "handle" back and forth (wobble effect described above) until it became loose and could be pulled off (like the instructions show.... with ease).

The pictures should show the process we took at getting the handle off.

Notice there is an "O" ring that I did not notice in the schematic/instructions. Did not "bugger" it up.

Now, the snap ring has no holes so will give it a whirl and hope it does not "fling" across the garage when it comes loose.

Pictures for your pleasure.

 

[75PIG]

more pics

 

[lostmarbles]

I bet your knuckles are full of gear oil too...

My bet is that the seals in your axle (that keep your diff oil where it should be in the pumpkin) are toast.


Mmmmmm. All these edible words are making me hungry.. Lucky tea time is coming up...

BTW.. The O-ring is shown in Fig 6.59. Errr. Well 6.59 is between 6.58 and 6.60 funnily enough. (I thought I'd better tell you this because I cut off the figure number on that one when preparing it for posting.)

Do you want me to post the reassembly instructions?

 

[inkpot]

more pics

The O ring shows up as item #6 in the third pic of post #5. Good job getting it all apart so far. There are special snap ring pliers for those rings without holes. The pliers have flat paddles on the ends. A bit tricky, but they do work well. John

 

[lostmarbles]

There are special snap ring pliers for those rings without holes. The pliers have flat paddles on the ends. A bit tricky, but they do work well. John

Appropriately called "duckbill snap ring pliers" John