Builds Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off

[Jdc1]

Today's progress. Roll bar is in place w/ supports. The supports will be welded in permanently after media blasting.

The door stop bracket was torn out at some point, they are installing a reinforcement so it won't happen again.

 

[Jdc1]

More metalwork:

 

[dlzadl]

So we have been in this shop for a few weeks. First week was spent undoing and fixing many sub-par repairs on the rear quarters and rear sill. These repairs were done by a concours level restoration shop who is living on their past reputation. If we would have went on to blasting and finish paint without these areas being fixed it would have been really unfortunate. But it would have been bad for that shop too as I would have went in and kicked major dents in his prized Cobra. Jesse wanted to have our new guys look at it before it went to be media blasted and came back for epoxy primer. I am glad we did. Out of all the areas on this project body work and paint has been the most frustrating and the most expensive. We have talked to several body guys, none of them up to this point understood this is not a hot rod and while it is simple lines they still need to be straight and finished with a minimum amount of filler. This shop is a father/son team and they are true artists. They love this 40 as much as we do and have taken this project as something they refuse to compromise on. Their hourly rate is fair and allows them and us to make the right decisions as to what really should be done. If you go looking for a body shop please find one that is not a collision repair shop but wants to restore a vehicle to it's best. To do this you need to feel their love for your vehicle, if you don't keep looking.

 

[Jdc1]

@rkymtnflyfisher , did the apron come from a 73, WV?

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

@rkymtnflyfisher , did the apron come from a 73, WV?

Yes it did.

 

[Disasterman]

There are body shops and "metal guys". When restoring my top recently my body/paint man wanted to see the rest of the vehicle so he could finish those parts in the same vein as the rest of the body, like you said, not hot rod custom but faithful to the original vehicle.

Glad you found someone to do it the way you expect.

 

[Jdc1]

Another productive day.

 

[Jdc1]

John didn't like the way that the hood twists when it is in the prop rod. He also didn't want it leaning on the rain gutter after paint. Rebuilding barn door hinges, too.

 

[dlzadl]

Twin prop rods...oh yeah!

 

[Jdc1]

The sill was sitting about 1/4" away from the quarter panel. They brought the horn out so it sits flush against the quarter. The lower hinge for the spare can now be tightened.

 

[Jdc1]

Hood hinge rebuild and alignment:

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

Looking good!!!

I saw the pictures where he had cut the horn of the rear sill. And I was wondering what was going on then you explained further.

But how come the rear sill wasn't flush against the corner?

 

[Jdc1]

Looking good!!!


But how come the rear sill wasn't flush against the corner?

Thanks, that's an excellent question. I am not sure why it was out away from the quarter. I am not sure that they sat flush new. One of the reasons why it is where it is.

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

Hmm... I believe they should fit flush, being that the corners support the tire carriers...
Here is a pic of mine.

Driver side

Passenger side.

I did not realize they where this tight until I took the bed out and could see everything.

 

[oldschool4wheeling]

Another reason I was wondering get is that I had bought a rear sill that didn't fit properly. It was made by Heritage, from back in the day, and the horn radius was to little.

 

[Jdc1]

Another reason I was wondering get is that I had bought a rear sill that didn't fit properly. It was made by Heritage, from back in the day, and the horn radius was to little.

View attachment 1364497
View attachment 1364498

I got my sill from Awlteq. Others have had good luck with theirs so I am not sure what is going on. It's fixed now.

 

[Jdc1]

Looking good!!!

I saw the pictures where he had cut the horn of the rear sill. And I was wondering what was going on then you explained further.

But how come the rear sill wasn't flush against the corner?

The gap was caused by the sill being tilted forward and not sitting plumb.

 

[Jdc1]

The sill is now correct. The spare tire latch mounting holes needed to be moved down to allow the doors to open. The sill cover is now attached with panel adhesive. There was minimal rust repair needed for the front door bottoms.

 

[Jdc1]

If I remember, Ill bring my good camera the next time I visit the truck.

 

[Jdc1]

Progress shots from today. Jump seats mocked in. The drivers fender had 1/2" of bondo, it is straight now. Holes in bib are filled. They are working on aligning the front clip. We are getting closer to paint.